Chainsaw chain--Same specs as the old one...still binding and throwing the chain

[PiperCub49]

Hey all,

My new chainsaw chain is grabbing and skipping on the chainsaw sprocket, as if it has a different number of drive links than the old chain. It's the same specs: 16", 56 drive links, .050 gauge. The old chain is made by Oregon and the new one by Trilink. I'm under the impression that all drive links are the same design and will work with any saw, so long as the number of drive links and chain length match. However, you can see in the picture that the drive links between the two chains are very different. Is it just wear? The old one runs great like it is.

Any ideas here?

Thanks

 

[ericm]

I've never seen a chain with the drive links worn like that. I bet your sprocket is in bad shape too.

 

[bob15]

Did you replace the drive sprocket? If not, it should be replaced when you change saw chains. Do I? Typically no. But looking at the wear on your old chain's drive links your sprocket is worn out.

I would also replace your new chain with another Oregon or Stihl. Trilink quality isn't so good. I have seen cutters that were completely sheared off the chain and fast wear on the rivets. they are a poor quality saw chain.

There is also another spec for saw chains....pitch: 1/4, .325, 3/8 lopro, 3/8, .404

https://www.planopower.com/how-to-determine-size-of-replacement-saw-chain

 

[PiperCub49]

Thanks for the help. Using your thoughts, I kept digging and found that the sprocket is a 1/4" 9-tooth. No wonder.

Now I'm trying to decide if I want to get all new 1/4" chains or get a 3/8" low profile sprocket. What do you think? Price is not a problem. I want this little guy to cut well.

 

[decableguy2000]

Nose sprocket on the bar must match as well.

 

[toolchaser]

If you want it to cut well, you'll be disappointed in the low profile chain. Go to Bailey's or similar & get a non-safety AKA "yellow" chain IF you're comfortable with less kickback protection on the chain.

 

[bob15]

Nose sprocket on the bar must match as well.

Agree 100%. What type of bar will dictate what chain to buy.

Sprocket nose or solid nose bar?

 

[bob15]

If you want it to cut well, you'll be disappointed in the low profile chain. Go to Bailey's or similar & get a non-safety AKA "yellow" chain IF you're comfortable with less kickback protection on the chain.

Oregon (and probably Stihl) make 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, non-safety, lo-pro chain. Oregon M91VXL

 

[PiperCub49]

I definitely will accept the risk of more kickback for a better cut.

I'm sitting here trying to figure out what the heck the deal is with this rim sprocket. Looking at the part number for the big sprocket, 19779, I find that it's a 1/4" 9-tooth. However, the rim sprocket has 3/8"-7-9 stamped on it, meaning it's a 3/8" 7 spline 9-tooth. I don't know what the heck I want to try with this little Poulan S25DA. I need to find a sprocket that fits it for a 3/8" low profile non-safety chain. Not sure how many splines I want...aka torque vs speed.

 

[66cj225]

PiperCub49: don't apply full fuel flow, the prop ain't ready.

 

[PiperCub49]

Here's the really perplexing part to me: the spur sprocket, part 19779, is 1/4" pitch. The rim sprocket is a 3/8" pitch (says right on the rim, as shown in the picture above). Together, I guess the rim sprocket converts the 1/4" pitch to 3/8" pitch. So then...why does one 3/8" chain work great and the other skips and binds every quarter revolution of the chain? Still confusing me.

It looks like maybe I should just forget about the rim sprocket altogether and just get a 6-tooth 3/8" spur sprocket and run it like that. What do you think?

 

[PiperCub49]

Oregon (and probably Stihl) make 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, non-safety, lo-pro chain. Oregon M91VXL

Bob15,

Thanks for this. And to answer your question, sprocket nose.

 

[bob15]

If your bar is a sprocket tip, you are best served by using the same type of chain you just took off the saw.

 

[bob15]

The Oregon drum 19779 (now obsolete) originally came with a 1/4 pitch, 9 spline, 7 tooth rim. The problem with 1/4 pitch chain are they are becoming hard to get (somewhat obsolete). What someone did is: convert the chain to a 3/8 configuration because it is a more commonly found chain, however that rim has become obsolete.

Your best bet is just to get the spur sprocket, a 3/8 lo-pro Oregon chain and move on in your life. I have a friend who might have that rim, but I'm not sure if he is open right now (he typically closes for the winter months).

 

[icthruu74]

The clutch drum in this case doesn’t have anything to do with what size chain you should run, it’s the rim sprocket that matters. Just from the pics, it looks like those chains are slightly different pitch - if you line up the drive links on the 2 chains they just don’t look like they quite line up. Could just be my eyes or the pics, or could be wear and stretch. A worn sprocket will cause increased chain wear too as said above. From the rim you need 3/8 low profile, and it looks like that is what was spec for that saw too.

Anyway, I’ve got a saw that runs 3/8 lo-pro, and I use woodland pro semi chisel chains from bailey’s on it. It makes a huge difference from the low kickback in how it cuts.

 

[decableguy2000]

You'll need a smaller rim sprocket, 9 tooth is way to large for that saw. You need a 7 tooth 3/8 rim. Depending on spline size Oregon 68210 large, or 18720 small and an A041 bar. Just go to oregon's part finder to verify numbers.

 

[bob15]

You'll need a smaller rim sprocket, 9 tooth is way to large for that saw. You need a 7 tooth 3/8 rim. Depending on spline size Oregon 68210 large, or 18720 small and an A041 bar. Just go to oregon's part finder to verify numbers.

Look at the rim he has and count how many splines there are. He has an obsolete, 9 spline, 7 tooth 3/8 rim.

Some of you guys need to learn the nomenclature of a drum and rim before giving advise.