Chainsaw Maintenance Question - Stihl MS310

[Wadeh66]

Is it ok to clamp the chain bar in my vise with the power head not supported (i.e. suspended in mid-air above my workbench)? I don't want to damage my saw, which is 15-years-old and runs like it's brand new.

I have 8-12 good chains which I usually have the Stihl dealer sharpen, but I've been furloughed (govt), so I have extra time, but no paycheck and I'm going sharpen them by hand with a file/guide.

20 years ago, I sharpened my chains in the truck with the bar between my knees while heading to a job, but it's been a long time, I have a bunch of them to sharpen, and I wanted a more stable platform to get them just right.

Any other tips?

Wade

 

[Bret888]

Yes that is a good way to go. The rest you will remember, or is just common sense, like chain tension is best snug. Use a gloved hand to spin the chain, and don't pull into the cutting edge. Or use your file handle like a draw knife to spin it.

 

[rlitman]

Absolutely yes, although you'll want to support the engine when loosening the bar while adjusting tension.

You'll be amazed how stable that is for filing. And filing is by far the best way to sharpen a chain.

 

[trogo]

Stihl has some of the best instructional videos for chainsaw operation maintenance I have seen. Here is the link:

http://www.stihlusa.com/information/videos/

Don't forget to dress the bar with a flat file and routinely rotate the bar to extend it's life.

 

[rlitman]

Don't forget to dress the bar with a flat file and routinely rotate the bar to extend it's life.

The bottom of the chain will wear a pattern into the drive sprocket. Ideally, you want to have two chains. Each time you sharpen, swap the chains, so that they wear evenly together, and flip the bar. When both chains are totally worn out from file sharpening, the drive sprocket will be pretty worn out too (if you machine sharpen, you will go through more than just two chains).

 

[Wadeh66]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm off to the dealer to grab some files

 

[DieselSaves]

The vice is great at the shop. In the field, I have friends who take a six or eight inch round, cut halfway through it with their saw, and set the saw in it on the tailgate for a temp set up.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I would use no-marring jaws on the vice.

 

[TreePointer]

Most folks I know who sharpen their own chains clamp the bar in a vise with powerhead still attached. Well, that is those who don't use a chain grinder. In the field, a stump vise is handy.

As mentioned you want to have the chain tightened and use the chain brake to immobilize the chain. Clamp the chain in the middle of the bar taking care not to pinch the rails. Also, you will find that clamping the bar at a certain point along its length will reduce vibrations as you make your filing strokes.

It's not necessary, but I use soft jaw inserts to keep the paint from prematurely wearing off my bar.

BESSEY Nylon Magnetic Vise Jaw

 

[pokey459]

The vice is great at the shop. In the field, I have friends who take a six or eight inch round, cut halfway through it with their saw, and set the saw in it on the tailgate for a temp set up.

or one of these. Also push your file into the hook , not down into the chain.

 

[DrGarage]

This article might be helpful to you. Pretty basic, but thorough.

http://www.wikihow.com/Sharpen-a-Chainsaw