Chainsaw Question

[TheMadMech]

I'm going to purchase a large chainsaw for some trees which fell on my property. My question is this: if I get a large chainsaw (24"ish) can I later put a short bar on it for smaller jobs or is there a limit to this? It seems that it may output too much power to be good to use in that configuration but I'm unsure.

Thank you.

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[Firebrick43]

Yes you can, however there is a limit what is handy. Its not power but weight. For example(extreme) you can run a 16" bar on a stihl ms660 but the power head is so heavy it is unhandy for limbing or other smaller task. I use a 25" bar on my MS660 most of the time and it really rips but I only cut trunks up on the ground with it and fell larger trees (36" bar).

My smaller saw is a MS 362 (very nice operating saw and smooth) and it will handle a 25" bar just ok but is an awesome cutting saw with a 20". Personally don't see the need to step down to an 18 or 16 inch bar and then half to lean over but my previous saw(ms290) was sort of maxed out with a 20" and was much better with an 18"

Also do you really need a 24" bar? That will cut a 48" tree. You don't need(nor want) to cut up large trees in one pass. Its better to make two half cuts.

 

[theoldwizard1]

A "good" chain saw with that big of a bar will cost a lot of $$$.

A chain saw in inexperienced hands can be very dangerous. Personal safety equipment is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED !

Downed trees can be the trickiest to cut, especially for a rookie.

 

[justtools]

I have been around saws my whole life. The larger saws will handle longer bars, You can always put a smaller bar on a larger saw. The rpms will only rev so high. If I can give some advise? Buy a name brand saw from a dealer in your area. Stihl, Husky or Jonsered all great saws. You can ask the dealer which saw would be best for you after specifying your needs. I use a 50cc saw the most. A pro 50cc saw will handle on the large side a 20" bar. Works best with a 16 or 18 inch bar. a 60cc saw can go up to a 24 inch bar. But really is happy with a 20 inch. a 70cc maxes out at 32" but is really happier with a 24 or 28 inch bar. Remember this it really does not take that much power to run a bar of any length. It is when the saw bar is completely buried in the wood it takes the power to cut. A 24 inch bar isnt working very hard if it is only cutting a 8 inch log. Good luck with your choice.

 

[justtools]

There are some great videos on chainsaw safety. Always use a helmet and chaps for your legs. a accident only take a second.

 

[Druder]

I've cut some monsters with an MS372 and a 20" bar. The 362 in basically the same saw and you would be hard pressed to find a homeowner level job you couldn't handle with one. Big saws are good for when time is money but I wouldn't want much more for getting rid of trees. I got my father an MS211 and he barely uses his big saw anymore, sure it's a dog but it's light and easy to use.

 

[scarrylarry]

Sounds like you guy's have some good information to share !
May I suggest a web site with all kinds of Chainsaw advice as well as tree health etc.. Plenty of forums !
ArboristSite.com.

 

[TheMadMech]

Ok, sorry for poor quality but it's night and foggy.

I measured across and height as it is laying and it's 36"-38" if I'm generous.

I'm looking for a Stihl or similar, definitely going to get the safety gear as well. I've done a small amount of chainsaw work with a 16" Craftsman electric saw but that's it.

I'm glad I came here, it sounds like I'm thinking too big for the saw I need.

All I'm looking to accomplish is these three trees (only one pictured) not being in my yard anymore.

Wood is probably rather soft as it's been on the ground a year and it's quite rotten.

I'm all ears for advice and recommendations.

Thank you again!

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[woody 73]

So that I do not sound like a broken record...Find the best service dept. in your area that gives the best service and buy what they are selling.

Having said that the next best thing is to rent a saw with a large bar and finish the job at hand and in the process see if you like that saw; nothing ventured nothing gained.

If you like that saw then look for a good dealer (see #1 above).

If you hate that saw then you are one step ahead of the game.

 

[Druder]

For a one off thing like that I would call in a favor, a nice saw is a big investment and the ones we're offering are "professional grade"

 

[CJM8515]

Husky 455 rancher will do all that and more with an 18-20" bar. Or you could get a stihl, or echo. I would look for a pro saw, dont waste your time on any home owner junk they just arent built as well.

 

[Djui5]

Stihl or Huskvarna 20” will do you just fine..


DO NOT buy a Poulin pro. It’s called “pulling pro”for a reason. Ask me how I know...

 

[dadsEH]

Get a pro in .

 

[finn]

Home Depot rents Makitta saws. Better option than buying a piece of expensive gas powered equipment for a short term project.

 

[gearhead1]

I own Husqvarnas, but I think a Stihl is the best. My buddy owns an automotive machine shop and has rebuilt some and said that the cylinder is chromed. So the cylinder will take longer to wear I assume.

I looked at doing something similar and found there is a difference in the chain style between the smaller and larger saws in the Husqvarnas when I researched it. It can be done within limits, just do a little homework.

 

[2oolhound]

I like finn's rental suggestion best. The other thing is roll the logs up on some 4x4's or something so you don't risk cutting through the log and into the ground. Any sand or gravel that touché the chain will dull it fast and it's not going to be fun after that.

You could also place an ad for free fire wood on cl. One year isn't that long for wood to be down and this time of year people using wood heat might be happy to cut and remove what you have for free.

 

[James-W]

I like finn's rental suggestion best. The other thing is roll the logs up on some 4x4's or something so you don't risk cutting through the log and into the ground. Any sand or gravel that touché the chain will dull it fast and it's not going to be fun after that.

You could also place an ad for free fire wood on cl. One year isn't that long for wood to be down and this time of year people using wood heat might be happy to cut and remove what you have for free.

I agree with renting a saw for the project. Why buy a saw for a one time project? I also agree that you may find someone who needs some firewood and will cut it up and remove it for you. It can't hurt to check around and find out.

 

[four.cycle]

Buy a name brand saw from a dealer in your area. Stihl, Husky or Jonsered all great saws.

^ Yes.

to the OP:
I run a Stihl MS390 (which came from the factory with a 24" bar) and had them put a 20" bar on it when I bought it new.
Cuts the hell out of some wood - like a hot knife through butter.

Short answer to your question: definitely yes.

Buy a couple bucking wedges and learn how to use them. They're cheap.

I have a monstrous peavey but actually get more use out of a 5-foot spud bar.

Keep the tip out of the dirt!

 

[southalabama]

I've got the Husqvarna Rancher 20". I use it cutting most trees.

I've also got a smaller Husqvarna mostly for yard work.

Always run real gas never ethanol. Make sure mix is right or buy premix.

And as stated before....find a local shop and see what they work on and sell. Will likely be Stihl or Husqvarna. Chainsaws are one of the most aggravating motors you will own. Get a good one.

 

[bwringer]

I'm imagining what condition a rental chainsaw would be in... ew.

Anyway, call a tree service and let them deal with this. It'll cost a fraction of what buying a huge chainsaw, chaps, etc. would cost, and they'll do it quickly and safely and haul the wood away if you want.

Cutting up huge downed logs is not a good project for someone who doesn't know much about chainsaws.

 

[four.cycle]

almost forgot....

one very important tip about chainsaws:

when someone asks "Can I borrow your chainsaw?" the correct answer is:

"Sure, as long as you let me borrow your wife."

 

[2level]

almost forgot....

one very important tip about chainsaws:

when someone asks "Can I borrow your chainsaw?" the correct answer is:

"Sure, as long as you let me borrow your wife."

I've lent a chainsaw to my brother and to a friend, but I wouldn't want to dip my tip in either one's wife.

 

[finn]

The HD rentals are regularly updated wit new equipment and have new chains. The guys on the Arborist site like to buy them when HD rotates to new rental equipment.

 

[James-W]

almost forgot....

one very important tip about chainsaws:

when someone asks "Can I borrow your chainsaw?" the correct answer is:

"Sure, as long as you let me borrow your wife."

If I said that to couple of my friends, they would say, "Certainly, but only on the condition you don't bring her back".

 

[theoldwizard1]

I measured across and height as it is laying and it's 36"-38" if I'm generous.
.
.
.
I'm looking for a Stihl or similar, definitely going to get the safety gear as well. I've done a small amount of chainsaw work with a 16" Craftsman electric saw but that's it.

I'm glad I came here, it sounds like I'm thinking too big for the saw I need.

Grab that 16" electric and get a couple of NEW chains for it ! If the wood is soft, it should go through it like butter ! The biggest mistake rookies make is pushing the saw. Let tha saw and chain do the work. If it is not cutting good, replace the chain with a spare.

The second biggest mistake rookies make with a tree laying on the ground is to try and cut it as it sits. You likely will severely dull the chain ! You really need a "log lifter" like this



Start at the top of the tree and work down. Try to only cut the part of the tree that is supported at one end (by the log lifter or something else) so that gravity will make the end fall off. If you have to cut in between 2 support points, the saw will bind if you start from the top. Cut UP from underneath about 1/3 - 1/2 of the way. Now you can start to cut from the top, but you are better of by starting with a wedge cut and then progressively make it deeper.

 

[Finky198]

All good advice right here.

A "good" chain saw with that big of a bar will cost a lot of $$$.

A chain saw in inexperienced hands can be very dangerous. Personal safety equipment is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED !

Downed trees can be the trickiest to cut, especially for a rookie.

There are some great videos on chainsaw safety. Always use a helmet and chaps for your legs. a accident only take a second.

My advice stay away and let a pro do it. If you’ve gotten by all these years with a mini chainsaw and haven’t upgraded yet. And don’t have all the additional safety gear and knowledge.Then I seriously think the risk out ways the reward. Let alone the start up cost...

Guys that are posting the ms362 or similar I’m not sure if the OP realizes that’s around a $700+ saw. Great saw I have one, but way expensive and pretty big for a guy who’s barely used a saw in the past and will see limited use in the future. Def more reasonable and safer options if you have to go down that road.

Anyway, call a tree service and let them deal with this. It'll cost a fraction of what buying a huge chainsaw, chaps, etc. would cost, and they'll do it quickly and safely and haul the wood away if you want.

Cutting up huge downed logs is not a good project for someone who doesn't know much about chainsaws.

 

[Firebrick43]

Grab that 16" electric and get a couple of NEW chains for it ! If the wood is soft, it should go through it like butter ! The biggest mistake rookies make is pushing the saw. Let tha saw and chain do the work. If it is not cutting good, replace the chain with a spare.

The second biggest mistake rookies make with a tree laying on the ground is to try and cut it as it sits. You likely will severely dull the chain ! You really need a "log lifter" like this



Start at the top of the tree and work down. Try to only cut the part of the tree that is supported at one end (by the log lifter or something else) so that gravity will make the end fall off. If you have to cut in between 2 support points, the saw will bind if you start from the top. Cut UP from underneath about 1/3 - 1/2 of the way. Now you can start to cut from the top, but you are better of by starting with a wedge cut and then progressively make it deeper.

There is no way a log the size of the OP showed is going to be lifted by a log lifter.

Second, mostly rookies are guilible enough to buy and use log lifters. Never seen a pro with one. It's easy to cut nearly thru the log(cut the whole log) then use a cant hook to roll it over and make the final little cut to free each round. Larger trees use a plastic wedge to spread the cut to keep it open and also so you can see where your cutting and see when you get to the bottom side Bark

 

[Finky198]

That’s the proper technique ^^^ and using a log, or felling dogs as a chok once you roll it... using wedges when needed and you want to be on the high side if the ground isn’t level... a rolling log can easily hurt you. just like working on cars which are heavy so are trees. And therefore trees and tree work should not be taken lightly.

To the OP Im glad you asked the question If you don’t know. Its best to ask for help. While this forum is a great start and guide, It’s far from enough knowledge nor does it replace hands on experience enough to jump directly into something like chopping up 36” dia tree on your first go around...

Only 2 of the 5 guys I’ve had work for me doing tree work throughout the years were allowed to run the big bars 36” and up on a ms660. I’ve seen pros handle them like fools... something I would never hand to someone with out proper knowledge, gear, and possibly supervision.

And by all means I not trying to help out my other tree guys. There’s a reason to call a pro why? We have insurance and safety gear, first aid kits and emergency plans, training, extra saws, peavys, axes, ropes, log dollies, trucks the list goes on... and the most important the knowledge and hands on experience to get it done safe and go home at night.

If you weren’t across the country I’d help you out...

 

[MrGiggles]

Home Depot rents Makitta saws. Better option than buying a piece of expensive gas powered equipment for a short term project.

I was going to mention this. They used to rent the Makita 6400, should have a 20" bar that will saw up that tree with two passes. As rotten as it is, it will cut like butter.

You can buy a larger saw and run a small bar on it, but if it were me in the given situation, I'd get something in the 60cc range (Husky 555, Stihl M362, Echo CS590), run a 20" bar most of the time and have a 24" with a full skip chain for the big stuff. That way you don't have to deal with the heft of a larger saw all the time when you only really need the capacity once in a while.

 

[Velosprout]

As a farm owner, former firewood purveyor, and as a property owner, I wouldn't be with a chain saw any more than I would be without a claw hammer. I have used McCullogh, Poulan, David Bradley, and Stihl. Stihl only is now welcome in my shed. Keep at least 6 chains. And sharpen my own.

While I used to use a Stihl 075 with a 36" bar. I now hire a nearby tree-service business with a boom truck to just drop the tree only, then I do all the clean-up with a Stihl 021 with a 16" bar.

Owning always gives you the option to do emergency cleanup on your schedule. Buy a Stihl.


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[four.cycle]

"Keep at least 6 chains."

I try to keep four myself.
Down to two right now because I trashed a couple of them cutting down rotten apple trees right down to ground level last fall.
Lucky I didn't trash the bar as well.

 

[bobcatdan]

My chainsaw is rated for a max of a 24" bar. I run an 18" bar as I see it as a more handy size, plus it makes it a bit of a hot rod. I figure easier to go up then down. I have yet to find a reason for a 24" bar for what I do.

 

[Mr Ratchet]

You don't need a pro grade saw unless you plan on cutting a lot. I've fell, limbed, and bucked more than a thousand trees from 6" to 30" with Sthil Farm Boss (MS290) It has a 20" bar and 3/8 chain. I'm due for a new bar which would make it #3 for this saw. You also don't need a skip chain and log rollers.

Just use common sense and do NOT rush when using a chainsaw. I use a helmet with a dust guard and muffs, chaps, saw gloves, and good work boots. I also carry a couple plastic wedges in the chaps pocket and use them from time to time. Most chaps are not rated to use for most electric saws. I still wear mine when I use my little electric saw though.

I would get a home owners saw from a good brand like Sthil, Husqvarna, or Echo since then tend to last.

Here's a tree I cut that fell on my roof. I just took my time and everything went fine.

 

[Finky198]

^^^ That’s not to bad how about this one... It was 32” Across at chest height and 75ft tall they were home when it happen in the middle of the night after multiple days of rain. They were lucky it fell slowly. The branch that broke off in the drive was well over 500 lbs and 12” in Dia it missed their car by roughly a foot... I did it without any heavier equip due to town ordinances and permit requirements. All in all it went well and kept the damage to a minimum but had me on my toes.

 

[blake101]

You should take a look at the Echo line up, excellent saw for the money, fantastic build quality and a 5 year warranty. Can't beat that. Don't know anyone that cold honesty say anything bad about echo, they have been around for over 60 years. I have had 3 and still own 2, Have also owned stihl but now I am all echo, and don't regret it.

 

[wimpy525]

My first new saw was an Echo CS 530 bought new in 09, still have it and use it a lot. I also have a Stihl MS-391 purchased in 12' thought I needed a bigger saw.I cut 7-8 cord a year of oak and drop large trees around my property. Both saws have 20" bars on them although I did try a 25' bar on the MS-391 because bigger is better right? Well found I don't need that much bar and back to a 20". The saw I grab the most is the Echo because it is so much lighter, and use the MS-391 for the bigger oak. Both great saws.