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Chainsaw recommendation

finn

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The rule of thumb by the manufactures in the industry is 4:2:1.

4 chains to bar replacement

2 chains to a sprocket replacement

The two chains should be alternated until worn out with the same sprocket. Sprocket replaced and two new chains ran.

If you run a sprocket longer then you unduly wear out the new chains due to the pitch being off from wear.

A rim sprocket makes it cheaper as you don’t have to replace the whole clutch drum every time.

Quote from oregon

"How long should the drive sprocket on my saw last?​

You should replace drive sprocket systems after every two chains, or sooner. It's important not to run a new chain on a badly worn drive sprocket."

Oregon chainsaw sprockets

And from Stihl

stihl.jpg

Page 17

Something must of been really wonky to require bar replacement before sprocket replacement.
Bent from a bad pinch in one case. Severely worn grooves mostly. I don’t ever recall changing a drive sprocket, although I know at least one saw, the MS460, needs one.

Not all wood is pristine , especially when you’re cutting tops in logged over areas. Lots of dirt in the wood after the harvester, feller butcher and skidder are done getting the marketable timber out of the woods.

Part of the cost of getting so called free firewood.
 
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bassJAM

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I like dolmar/makita as much as anyone (I came up with the first oil pump modification for 28+" bars, and made the first billet pump adjuster) but parts availability is meh mostly because the dealer network is non existent..

The rentals are 6400 series saws which for a 64cc saw has fantastic torque. The problem is they are 79cc saws with 64cc cylinders. Meaning they are over weight compared to 60cc class and under powered compared to the 80cc class. The only person I'd recommend a hd rental to is someone who likes to tinker and has free time but low on cash. Otherwise there are better options.

Once you convert the HD rental saws to 79cc though they offered best in class power to weight ratio until the 500i came out. Now the new Stihl edges out the Dolmar/Makita but is what, $1,600+? I have $550 in my HD rental Dolkita 7900, that's a bit more difference than just being "low on cash" for a regular homeowner. Tinkering amounted to swapping the piston and cylinder, which bolts right up, and re-tuning the carb.

1728064849640.png
 
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mike93lx

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Once you convert the HD rental saws to 79cc though they offered best in class power to weight ratio until the 500i came out. Now the new Stihl edges out the Dolmar/Makita but is what, $1,600+? I have $550 in my HD rental Dolkita 7900, that's a bit more difference than just being "low on cash" for a regular homeowner. Tinkering amounted to swapping the piston and cylinder, which bolts right up, and re-tuning the carb.

1728064849640.png
That's awesome you have a great saw for a reasonable price, but that kind of saw, nor the mods or fixes required, are what I am looking for here.

Retuning a carb and swapping a cylinder may be inconsequential for you, but isn't for everyone.
 

jar944

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Once you convert the HD rental saws to 79cc though they offered best in class power to weight ratio until the 500i came out. Now the new Stihl edges out the Dolmar/Makita but is what, $1,600+? I have $550 in my HD rental Dolkita 7900, that's a bit more difference than just being "low on cash" for a regular homeowner. Tinkering amounted to swapping the piston and cylinder, which bolts right up, and re-tuning the carb.


You might get lucky and get one with zero hours and for under $100 because some donkey didn't tighten the cylinder bolts.
rps20150215_131222_642_zpsouc70fgw.jpg

You might also get a basket case that was run hard and put away wet.
rps20141012_100048_963_zpsjgz4neph.jpg

Or a seized cylinder with a seized crankrps20150126_113931_359_zpsqvlefh5h.jpg

Again if you like to tinker with a 20year old design.
rps20150215_160813_272_zpssclwbaze.jpg


If you just want to cut things just buy something new from manufacturer that sells parts in North America and or has a dealer network. Ordering stuff from a guy in Ohio isn't bad, but it's not convenient.
 

bassJAM

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That's awesome you have a great saw for a reasonable price, but that kind of saw, nor the mods or fixes required, are what I am looking for here.

Retuning a carb and swapping a cylinder may be inconsequential for you, but isn't for everyone.

Sorry, wasn't recommending that for you. I mentioned earlier that I think battery is your best option for a once every 5 years usage (if you already have 18v or 40v tools in a brand that makes a chainsaw) and I stand by that. Otherwise I think the MS180 or equivalent Echo or Husqvarna is plenty.
 

bassJAM

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You might get lucky and get one with zero hours and for under $100 because some donkey didn't tighten the cylinder bolts.


You might also get a basket case that was run hard and put away wet.


Or a seized cylinder with a seized crank

Again if you like to tinker with a 20year old design.



If you just want to cut things just buy something new from manufacturer that sells parts in North America and or has a dealer network. Ordering stuff from a guy in Ohio isn't bad, but it's not convenient.

Those issues are few and far between, for the most part these are good saws and HD sells them before they become money pits. And myself and everyone I know who got one of these was able to start it and pull the spark plug to inspect the cylinder before buying. I'm sure they'd have let me check the compression if I had a compression tool when I bought mine.
 
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mike93lx

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Sorry, wasn't recommending that for you. I mentioned earlier that I think battery is your best option for a once every 5 years usage (if you already have 18v or 40v tools in a brand that makes a chainsaw) and I stand by that. Otherwise I think the MS180 or equivalent Echo or Husqvarna is plenty.
All good.

I am leaning towards buying both an ego saw and a used Stihl. I am confident saying that the ego is not a lifetime tool, but won't deny that they are nice to use and can be more reliable. Running the gas saw will go hand in hand with testing the generator to ensure both are ready to go when needed.

Two is one, one is none.
 

gahrajmahal

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Here is the thread our host Ryan started on the same subject.


I believe he bought the Milwaukee based on his battery platform. So I did the same. I have a Ryobi battery mower, so I bought the 14” bare saw. It works great for me cutting downed branches for firewood. My friend the landscaper received my Stihl gas saw that was hand-me-down from my dad. He got it running again and since he uses it all the time it works well for him.

A few weeks ago I had him come over to remove a large branch that broke off in one of our spruce trees. It was hung up pretty good. He had to free climb about 25 ft up. After watching him work, I gave him my painting harness so he could clip himself to the trees he is climbing. He liked that my battery powered saw was light weight and he didn’t have to pull to start it. He could just one-hand cut the tangled branches until it was loose enough to toss down.
 
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mike93lx

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Here is the thread our host Ryan started on the same subject.


I believe he bought the Milwaukee based on his battery platform. So I did the same. I have a Ryobi battery mower, so I bought the 14” bare saw. It works great for me cutting downed branches for firewood. My friend the landscaper received my Stihl gas saw that was hand-me-down from my dad. He got it running again and since he uses it all the time it works well for him.

A few weeks ago I had him come over to remove a large branch that broke off in one of our spruce trees. It was hung up pretty good. He had to free climb about 25 ft up. After watching him work, I gave him my painting harness so he could clip himself to the trees he is climbing. He liked that my battery powered saw was light weight and he didn’t have to pull to start it. He could just one-hand cut the tangled branches until it was loose enough to toss down.
Yeah, I read that. But a little 18v pruning saw isn't what I want for this case.
 

Ultradog MN

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This thread got me thinking about this Milwaukee chain saw I sold a while back. Bought it at a "Man Sale" a dozen years ago. I used it quite a bit here in town but wanted a gas saw so I let it go after I bought the Stihl this spring. 18" bar.
Only one I've ever seen - or heard of for that matter. It was a surprisingly good machine.
 

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rancherbill

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Blaming tools for abuse and misuse is a time-honored tradition. "The piece of **** 1/4 drive ratchet broke with only a 2ft pipe on it. Tekton *****!"
I was one of the people complaining. I DID ABUSE THE SAW. I did it in the dirt.

I took it in for a carb problem and they said it was worn out.

BLAME THE MANUFACTURER - NOT ME. Consumer chainsaws are junk. They are riding on the glow from their professional products. As you can tell from some comments cheap stuff is taking away the low end of the market.
 

larry4406

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I’ve been pretty impressed with wife’s 38V Makita.
Is that because the wife does all the work or because you like to look at the saw?
The saw actually has a good bit of power and cuts very well.

Instant start as long as the batteries are charged. No gas to fool with.

Yes she does use it for trimming which is even better.
 
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mike93lx

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I'm seeing reports of batteries overheating on the ego saws when they are getting pushed hard or in hot weather, and feedback that the chain tensioning on the 18 is not great.

When I first started moving towards battery OPE, I loved the convenience and noise reduction and looked past some of the limitations. The more I use the stuff, especially higher draw tools that run for longer periods of time, like the backpack blower, the more limitations and challenges pop up. Besides that the batteries are just stupidly expensive and the tools generally feel kind of cheap, even the expensive ones.

I may grab a small cordless saw anyway, but don't think I will have the confidence in it to be a disaster-preparedness tool.
 

username2

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FWIW, I've been surprisingly happy with my 36V Makita. We have absolute tree armageddon around here in the winter and it's been the right size, plus the lack of noise and ability to just pull a trigger is really nice. Naturally, the power is off sometimes but I can use a generator to charge the thing.
 
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mike93lx

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FWIW, I've been surprisingly happy with my 36V Makita. We have absolute tree armageddon around here in the winter and it's been the right size, plus the lack of noise and ability to just pull a trigger is really nice. Naturally, the power is off sometimes but I can use a generator to charge the thing.
The makitas seem really well regarded, but I'm not looking to add another battery platform.
 
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Davefr

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I'd just assume that (a) people will recommend what they've already got (b) one is about as good as another from a major brand.

FWIW, I've been surprisingly happy with my 36V Makita. We have absolute tree armageddon around here in the winter and it's been the right size, plus the lack of noise and ability to just pull a trigger is really nice. Naturally, the power is off sometimes but I can use a generator to charge the thing.
I chose Makita for my battery saws. They are really well built, produce high RPM for smooth cuts, have a robust/mostly metal drive system and come from a manufacturer that has a lot of chainsaw history (Makita/Dolmar). (unlike Milwaukie, Ryobi, Dewalt)

But having a spare 2 pk set of 18v batteries is $379.00!!!
 

Firebrick43

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Bent from a bad pinch in one case. Severely worn grooves mostly. I don’t ever recall changing a drive sprocket, although I know at least one saw, the MS460, needs one.

Not all wood is pristine , especially when you’re cutting tops in logged over areas. Lots of dirt in the wood after the harvester, feller butcher and skidder are done getting the marketable timber out of the woods.

Part of the cost of getting so called free firewood.
Your dirt up there must be smarter. The dirt down here is dumb and doesn't discriminate. It wears the bar, chain, and sprockets instead of just the bar and chain.
 

Davefr

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AFAIK makita designed and manufactured the battery and electric saws, unlike the gas saws.
Stihl invented the first electro-chainsaw in 1926
Dolmar invented the first petro-chainsaw in 1927
 

Snapped-off

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I chose Makita for my battery saws. They are really well built, produce high RPM for smooth cuts, have a robust/mostly metal drive system and come from a manufacturer that has a lot of chainsaw history (Makita/Dolmar). (unlike Milwaukie, Ryobi, Dewalt)

But having a spare 2 pk set of 18v batteries is $379.00!!!
You can get them almost half that price from HD during holiday sales.
 

mikedodge

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I have a MS170, basically the same as the 180. I bought it for random times I'd need a chainsaw around my property and couldn't justify spending more on a bigger one when it would spend most of its time sitting.
Then a tornado hit and I lost well over 100 trees. Obviously I didn't clean all that up with the 170 but it had no problem cutting down trees and doing far more then it was ever meant to and its still going perfectly fine.
The only problem I've ever had with it is it's under powered so when you are cutting something bigger then you should be you have to be careful how you do it because it can get pinched and stuck pretty easily. But I can hardly blame the saw for that.
If it needs to be replaced or my use changes and I need one more regularely it'll be another Stihl.
And while Stihl might be dealer dependent I've never had a problem getting parts for my Stihl equipment.
 

Coach James

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I only read the first page and this one.

I have two chainsaws. A MS250 that cuts fine but tends to flood on startup.
Also have an Echo Timberwolf that is great in every way for me.

Largest tree I've taken down was ~18 inch diameter. Echo handled it fine.
 

sparky 1971

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I very rarely need a chainsaw and as a result, have a corded homeline that has treated me really well. If it can't cut it, I hire the work out.

With that said, I want something more capable to have for emergencies, like a hurricane, blizzard or tornado. It will likely not even be run in most years, beyond starting it to confirm operation. I'd likely use the canned fuel as I own nothing 2 stroke.

No specific budget, but I feel like something on the order of a Stihl MS180 might be good? Lets say under $300 unless there is a compelling argument to go higher.

I am not particularly interested in used, unless there is an argument that doesn't include saving money.
Didja make up your mind yet? In typical GJ fashion, four pages of opinions, most of them having nothing to do with the original topic and of course, paying no attention to the planned usage of the saw. I say if the Stihl is easy to source, go for it. It's what I would get for the occasional , as in not everyday nor professional, use. if it were readily available. I'm going to guess that in the price range they are all pretty much the same and if Menards carried Stihl, I would have bought the same saw. They carry Poulan so that's what I bought. I started with the 42 cc with the 18" bar and it works as it should, the only bad thing is that, like every other thing I've had with the Poulan name on it, it's cold blooded, but once it's warmed up, works flawlessly. One storm, an 80+' cottonwood tree decided to become a 50' tall tree and while I was cleaning up that mess, the tree shifted and I got the bar stuck...bad. I probably could have used a Sawzall to free it up but, me being me and not having the ability to think rationally when under duress or when pissed off, made the 30 minute drive each way and bought the Poulan 50cc with a 20" bar. It worked and now I have two saws. (Actually three if you count the 16" homeowner special Homelite that has the plastic chain adjustment that constantly loosens up causing the chain to come off). I also have a Remington pole mounted electric saw that does a helluva job for what it is. It ain't gonna cut up a tree, but in a pinch could be taken off of the pole to help free up a stuck bar if a Sawzall or other chain saw isn't available.

In all honesty, I think battery powered saws have their place and that place is trimming, but only if you already have tools that run on the same platform. Unless I had a ton of batteries available, wouldn't want to rely on one to clear enough **** to get out of the driveway in the case of an emergency.
 

finn

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Once you convert the HD rental saws to 79cc though they offered best in class power to weight ratio until the 500i came out. Now the new Stihl edges out the Dolmar/Makita but is what, $1,600+? I have $550 in my HD rental Dolkita 7900, that's a bit more difference than just being "low on cash" for a regular homeowner. Tinkering amounted to swapping the piston and cylinder, which bolts right up, and re-tuning the carb.

1728064849640.png
The HD Makita upgrade was a hot topic over on the Arborist Site a couple of years ago.

Haven’t been over there much recently.

Las I checked there were a few guys promoting the Chinese clones of the Stihl saws.
 

Rinspeed

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Last I checked there were a few guys promoting the Chinese clones of the Stihl saws.






I bought two of them the first of the year dirt cheap. I still haven't found time to fire them up but it's on the list for this weekend or next.
 

Rinspeed

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I forgot to add I just seen this morning that Stihl has the MS250 on sale for $50 off like they did several months ago OP.
 
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