Chainsaw recommendations after Oklahoma Ice Storm

[BrandoJames]

Any suggestions for a gas powered chainsaw, I'm thinking I'll need at least an 18" or 20" inch blade in the $600 range. I've got a two acre heavily wooded lot in Central Oklahoma. After our ice storm last week, I've got a big mess now.

Let me know what you guys recommend in that price range. Thanks in advance.

 

[superduty1]

You can't go wrong with a Stihl or Husqvarna. Two best brands in my opinion.

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[Ralf11]

ditto & it's been Stihl for the last decade or two

 

[bob15]

If their is dealer is local, I would opt for an Echo before a husky or stihl.

 

[dmftoy1]

You can buy a professional grade husky or stilhl for that. I like a 16” bar on 10.5k rpm saw


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[dmftoy1]

This is the latest version of my favorite saw -

https://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/550-xp-g/966648391/


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[cnttxmdc]

My personal preference is a Stihl 290 (or old school 029). That being said, depending on the availability of power I really like my DeWalt chainsaws. The Stihl will take down anything, but the DeWalt batteries all interchange, there’s no pulling to get them started, and they’re lightweight. It just depends on what sizes you’ll be cutting.

My general rule is anything 5” or smaller gets the DeWalt, larger gets the Stihl.

If you’ll only be using it on occasion, need gas, &/or want something cheaper, the Poulan Pro 20” I have as a backup would be a good buy as well.

 

[theoldwizard1]

14"-16" bar is plenty.

Buy some chainsaw chaps and a helmet with face shield.

 

[Crabman]

I have the Husky 455 Rancher with a 20' bar.

Has served me well for a long time (20 years?). It is their best selling saw.

I also have a Milwaukee M18, which is great.

Sounds like you need gas with the ice storm.

Good luck with the clean up and glad you are ok.

Bruce

 

[77thor]

You can't go wrong with a Stihl or Husqvarna. Two best brands in my opinion....

I totally agree.

 

[sweetk30]

You can't go wrong with a Stihl or Husqvarna. Two best brands in my opinion.

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shihl farm boss here for almost 5 years and going great .

grey bottle synthetic oil 6 pack gets you a extra warranty at my dealer . and ethonal free gas only and its never let me down .

i dont drain the gas in it . and it always fires up 1 week later or 6 months later .

my stihl weed wacker is the same as the saw . and she is a beast of a wacker . i was cutting down 7-8ft tall golden rod weeds at the farm with the metal triangle blade on it last year and it just kept cutting and cutting .

 

[pl_silverado]

If you only want one saw in that price range, Stihl MS261. If you can scrounge up another $150 ish, I’d go with the bigger MS362 as the additional power will be nice. I had a 261, but wanted more power more often than not.

Both of those will last you the rest of your life and are pro grade saws that are fully repairable.

 

[jonshonda]

The Stihl MS250 (old model they still sell, even though the MS251 was supposed to replace it) has been great for me. I bought it after we had a bunch of oak trees taken down (I paid to have them dropped, and I cleaned up the mess), and it paid for itself after the first use.

It isn't the most powerful, or the biggest saw but it really doesn't need to be tbh. But it wouldn't play well with a 20" bar. The MS291 is a great compromise, not too big and heavy, but enough power for a 18-20" bar. Stihl has a great file to sharpen chains as well. A hard plastic case is really nice for storage. So by the time you buy a MS291, case oil, bar and chain oil, you are getting close to you budget.

What I did notice is that Stihl starts list a 20" bar in the "mid range" of the bar sizes on the MS391. But if you are just doing storm cleanup, a saw that big would be overkill in the long run!

 

[lardy1]

I've had a Husqvarna model 41 since 1998. It doesn't see much use anymore but it's a nice little saw. Well worth what I paid for it back then.

 

[tarmy]

This thing kicks ****...get a commercial saw. They are way more useful than a homeowner type.

 

[Highland]

First post nailed it as usual! I chose Husky back when Atwoods sold them, now they carry Stihl.

Also consider a pole saw. I got a Husky for one job and have been surprised how often I use it. Especially getting broken limbs down on the ground where the big saw can cut them up.

 

[SuperCat]

I have a Husqvarna 45 that saved my bacon when I unknowingly cut a rotten limb. The big branch snapped when I did not expect it, and hit my ladder, knocking me to the ground on my back. As I fell, I tossed the chainsaw away from me, but it bounced and landed on my mid section.
It was still running, and the bar landed on my navel. Fortunately, my chainsaw had a feature called "chain brake" which stopped the chain from moving. Make sure your new chainsaw has this feature, that freak accident happened in a split second and almost cut me in half. Chain brake is supposed to stop the chain in case of kick back. The saw has always run great, never had any problems or needed any repairs. Best money I ever spent.
As a side note, I cut that entire tree down to the ground. I didn't want to give it a second chance to get me!

 

[101SCOUT]

The one thing most people dont think of is, where am I going to get it fixed when it is something you cant repair. Stihl has a better system in place than husqvarna and has a better product life IE longer production and better parts replacement life, decades instead of years like most. Echo probably doesnt sell as many saws in all of US as Stihl does in a few states so size does matter just ask the Dolmar fanboys where do the have to go to get parts. Safety wise anything under 3.8 cu inch must have a chainbrake so anything you are looking at will be as safe as it gets.

 

[soloz2]

I really like my Stihl MS261c. I too am a homeowner and have a bit over an acre with lots of trees. I'm in the process of clearing about 80 ash trees due to EAB infestation. There are times it would be nice to have a bigger saw for felling, but it is more than adequate for my needs and is light enough to use all day where a heavier saw would take a bigger toll on my body. I have both an 18" and 20" bar for it and primarily run 18" on it. I felled an ash 23" at the base a couple weeks ago and have been processing firewood from my trees.

I recommend premixed fuel. I know it costs more, but you don't have to drain it or worry about if your saw will start when you run 8 tanks through it one day then don't touch it for 6+ weeks. I've been using Srihl motomix, and a gallon will get you the extended warranty same as the 6 pack of oil. I just picked up some VP as it's less expensive and motomix gallons and 5 gallons are backordered.

Make sure you have chaps, and a helmet. I have a pair of Husqvarna Technica wrap chaps that work well, but I'd like to get some clogger zero for summer. I rock the Stihl $50 helmet and it works well for me. It's comfortable and has ear muffs and a face shield integrated. Safety toe boots are recommended, although I just wear good shoes, and dont forget gloves. I like my mechanix gloves as I don't have to take them off all the time.

Other accessories that are nice are a can't hook, axe, and wedges. I also got the orange wrap sharpening kit for each of my saws. ( I also have a MS180 that makes an excellent limbing saw).
.good luck and be safe! Make sure to watch some safety and technical videos.

 

[johninct]

You need 2 saws. A bigger one that you will use 10% of the time and a smaller, lighter one you will use 90% of the time. That big saw gets heavy after a while.

 

[signcrafter]

I just bought am echo 590 and it worked really good. It comes with a 20" bar and I got a 24" bar and skip tooth chain for it. Havent had the chance to try that out yet but needed a longer bar for some bigger trunks in my yard.

I also have an m18 that handles most of my needs and absolutely love that saw. Fires right up and cuts great. Going to get an m18 pole saw in spring also.

 

[Coach James]

I have a Stihl 250, dropped many trees with it, and zero problems. I know it's just a "homeowner" saw, but it's a jewel compared to the Poulan I had prior.

Coach

 

[hangfirew8]

The 455 has not been out for 20 years. You may have a 45 Rancher, which is a better saw, or a 455 newer than 20 years.

I have a 20+ year old 45 Rancher EPA, and despite the odd name, is an excellent saw. In this case the EPA means the newer and better strato design engine, not a smogged-down older design.

For an actual 455, the first thing I recommend is going to a 16" bar. Few 45cc engine saws can cut well with 20" buried, and especially not a consumer model like the 455. If you never use the whole length of the bar, and you are patient, it does OK. Just OK.

-HF

 

[hangfirew8]

Never operate a chainsaw from a ladder. If you feel you must, then buy a pro top handle model... but those are really made for pro tree climbers, not ladder work.

-HF

 

[seagull369]

I might get some flak for mentioning, but there are a couple of interesting CLONE chainsaws options out there-that might be worth considering, especially if you're on a budget and able to repair a saw yourself. All these saws are apparently nearly exact copies of somewhat older Stihl and Husky models and therefore all parts are claimed to be interchangeable with those on the genuine articles. "Holzfforma" is one of the more common names you'll plastered on these things, but there are at least dozens of other ones as well. Whatever they're called, by and large, they're basically all the same saws. One of the potential caveats to buying one of these saws is that they might not come with any kind of warranty and they generally don't seem to come equipped with a bar.

 

[BrandoJames]

dont forget gloves. I like my mechanix gloves as I don't have to take them off all the time.

I was wondering about gloves vs no gloves. Right before the lockdown, I was in a big box store (either HD or Lowes) and noticed the lumber guys making cuts on a table saw without gloves. I asked one of the guys about it:

Me: You guys don't wear gloves when cutting?

Employee: Not anymore. A glove can snag in the saw--it's actually safer without them.

Of course, a table saw and chainsaw are two different things. I had a cheap Homelite 18" chainsaw years ago, and always wore gloves. Now I'm not so sure. Do you guys recommend gloves when using a chainsaw.

 

[Rinspeed]

Stihl MS-261.

 

[jonshonda]

Stihl MS-261.

Stop making me regret my MS250 purchase!! haha

 

[MoonRise]

Chaps - ESSENTIAL

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-Husqvarna-Safety-Chainsaw-Chaps/1002260516

Logger's helmet with integral mesh faceshield and ear muffs - ESSENTIAL

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-Chainsaw-Safety-Helmet/3560920

(note that you still MUST wear some sort of safety glasses UNDER the mesh faceshield, as the mesh only stops the 'big' chunks. BTDT)

I like getting the hard plastic case to store the saw (and some 'essentials', like a bottle of bar and chain oil, a can of premix fuel, a scrench, a spare plug, chain sharpening files, spare chain, some felling wedges, etc). Protects the saw and keeps everything together and in one place, so just grab-and-go when you need it.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-18-25-in-Chainsaw-Case/3260193

It also helps keep the dripping bar lube from getting EVERYWHERE.

And a +99 on get a 'good' saw. Stihl is usually good, higher-end Husqvarna is usually good. See what sort of dealer support is in your area, as that can be helpful.

Husqvarna 455 Rancher or 450 Rancher with an 18 or 20 inch bar can do a LOT of work.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-455-Rancher-20-in-55-5-cc-2-Cycle-Gas-Chainsaw/1000095800

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-450-Rancher-20-in-50-2-cc-2-Cycle-Gas-Chainsaw/1000257541

Maybe a 545 Mk2

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-545MII-20-in-50-1-cc-2-Cycle-Gas-Chainsaw/1001282138


And you can usually put a smaller bar (and matching chain) on a 'bigger' (more powerful) saw, but you really shouldn't put a longer bar on a saw that really doesn't have the power to use that longer bar.

Unless you just want the saw for "limbing", I really wouldn't get anything with an engine smaller than 50 or 55 cc.

Gloves? With a chainsaw, yes. With a tablesaw, HELL-NO.

With a chainsaw you are grabbing the tool handles and keeping your body parts AWAY from the blade (or saw chain in this case). With a tablesaw, you still NEED to keep your body parts away from the blade (so that the body parts still stay attached to your body) but are usually holding a workpiece and not the tool.

 

[TNToy]

MS 261 or Husky 550XP if you have the coin. Pro grade saws.

Echo 590 or a Stihl 250 or Farm Boss if you don’t.

What you get with a Stihl by going to a pro model:

 

[tez929rr]

Stihl at home and the fire department. We even have a big Stihl rescue saw. I will second the people who say chaps, and remember that as one person said, a big saw gets too heavy very quickly. A sharp chain will make as much of a difference as anything else, so go with the heaviest saw you can honestly work with all day.

 

[BrandoJames]

Resolution: I bought the Husqvarna 450 18" via Amazon for $469. Amazon had a half a dozen in stock yesterday afternoon, none today. I bet all six were sold & shipped to Oklahoma. Lowes had that model listed for an incredible $300, but you couldn't buy it online and all the local stores were sold out.

Definitely hard to find a quality chainsaw right now in the OKC metroplex. I did locate a Husqvarna 20" for $400, but it meant driving down to the Durant Home Depot on the Texas border.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WGQKP44/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Kent_B]

You can't go wrong with either brand. I think I'd be shopping for dealer rather than saw. Who has a better reputation local to you for service and parts? Maybe your neighbors have opinions on local dealers.

 

[seagravedriver]

You can't go wrong with a Stihl or Husqvarna. Two best brands in my opinion.

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I have been on my fire departments wildland team for 20+ years, and in the woods, that is all you will see. We are west coast, so 90% Stihl. In the fire engines and ladder trucks, we have some Husqvarna specialty saws for cut off work and tech rescue. And some Stihls as well. I know several tree fallers, and they are 100% Stihl. I have had mine (3), for well over 20 years with little to no problems. I have also found the longer the bar, (to a point, you're not felling timber, I am assuming), is easier on my back, not so much reaching/bending. Those two brands just do not disappoint.

Eye protection, Ear protection, Gloves, Chaps, Multiple chains.

 

[BrandoJames]

You can't go wrong with either brand. I think I'd be shopping for dealer rather than saw. Who has a better reputation local to you for service and parts? Maybe your neighbors have opinions on local dealers.

Really not sure about a local chainsaw dealer—my previous chainsaw was a cheap Homelite from a big box store. I destroyed that saw in just a few years. Hopefully I’ll have better luck with the Husqvarna.

 

[jonshonda]

I have also found the longer the bar, (to a point, you're not felling timber, I am assuming), is easier on my back, not so much reaching/bending.

That is an interesting point on limbing. A MS250 with a 30" bar for limbing downed trees would be a back saver.

 

[redmondjp]

I second the two-saw approach, as you will end up using the smaller saw for about 75% of your cutting. My current setup is a new Echo CS-361P with a 16" bar (to reach out farther for limbing, not for cutting larger wood) for the small saw, and an older Echo CS-520 (CL find for $100, in like-new condition) with a 20" bar.

The CS-520 cuts above its weight class - I'm really impressed with it. Now it's not a large saw but I cut a 36" diameter Maple tree up with it this summer with the bar fully buried from both sides and it didn't bog at all. Did I say that it isn't heavy?

The bigger saws are really nice, but darnit, who wants to carry that much weight around all the time if you don't really need to? I'm an occasional user so saw weight is a primary concern for me.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

Makita DCS6421. Tough and easy to modify up to 80cc. As a bonus, you can buy the once used rental chains from Home Depot (or at least I could)for $3 each and more often than not they didn't even need to be sharpened, just have all the safety **** cut off the links and straps. I bought all the guy had once which was 21 chains and he only asked for $30. It takes me 5 minutes per chain to cut the **** off and sharpen them, well worth it for me.

 

[Monte]

Dolmar PS420/Makita EA4300. Good allround saw and one of the few with metal (magnesium) motor housing in that price range

(made in china now though )

 

[Rinspeed]

Dolmar PS420/Makita EA4300. Good allround saw and one of the few with metal (magnesium) motor housing in that price range

(made in china now though )

I heard the other day that Dolmar is getting out of the gas saws next year.