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Chainsaw recommendations

Davefr

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Here is my opinion.

I have always bought used saws off craigslist, and had good luck. I never buy them from loggers(sorry guys).


I'm not sure I agree. Professional loggers and arborists generally know how to take care of their equipment since their income depends on it. They don't forget to add the oil to the mix, they keep their chains sharp which avoids clogging the saw up with fine sawdust. They also can identify conditions that are leading up to lean seize like cracked fuel lines or incorrect carb settings. They also tend to use professional dealers for repairs.


If you are buying a used saw inspect the muffler, you can tell allot about one by the condition of the muffler.

I think you mean pull the muffler and inspect the condition of the cylinder wall and piston don't you?? It's generally easy to do and will tell you a lot about the condition of the saw.
 
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Davefr

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One of the better used chainsaw deals is to checkout Home Depot's rental center. They rent out Makita DCS6401's and after a couple years they sell them for tax/accounting reasons. These saws spend most of their life sitting on the shelf and they are pretty well maintained. You can get them for around $200 and HD usually outfits them with brand new bars and chain.

Now you head over to Bailey's and buy a Dolmar 7900 big bore kit for $99. Now you have an approx. $300 saw that'll cut with Stihl MS660's.
 

TreePointer

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Now you head over to Bailey's and buy a Dolmar 7900 big bore kit for $99. Now you have an approx. $300 saw that'll cut with Stihl MS660's.

That's a great deal if you can run into one. I put the OEM 79cc top end on a 6401 last summer. The now Makita 7901 makes me smile every every time I cut with it.
 

GrantCee

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A few points:

1) Unless you're an enthusiast who knows how to work on saws, your dealer is the most important consideration - even more than the saw. Pick a good dealer, and get whatever he/she sells and services.

2) There are two basic forms of saw construction, identified by how the crankcase is made: vertically split ("pro" construction, usually of magnesium but can be aluminum); and horizontal split ("homeowner" or "occasional use", also called "clamshell", aluminum but increasingly plastic.) Pro saws will have a better power-to-weight ratio, be a lot tougher, and are easier to rebuild to original specs. They're also a whole lot more expensive.

Clamshell saws are usually of lower power, can't be rebuilt as easily (and are usually not worth repairing), and cost much less.

Here's my personal opinion: a clamshell saw is a clamshell saw is a clamshell saw. A clamshell saw from Stihl is no better than one from Husqvarna or Echo, and any brand differential exists only in marketing. If you're going to buy a low end Stihl, for instance, you'll pay a lot more for the orange plastic but will not be getting a better saw than anything else. Again, a clamshell saw is a clamshell saw is a clamshell saw. It just doesn't matter a whole lot.

If you're going to buy a pro level saw, you have a lot of options and here is where you have decisions to make. Stihl's pro saws, on which they made their reputation (and of which their clamshell saws ride the coattails), are good choices; so are Husqvarnas. In my experience, the Stihls will be like tractors and the Huskys (this goes for their badge-engineered Jonsered cousins too) are the dragsters. That's changing a bit as Stihl introduces new models with higher chain speeds, but overall the Husky will usually cut faster than the Stihl. Both have good dealer networks and parts availability.

Echo has a couple of pro-style saws, but tend to be older designs that produce less power and have less effective anti-vibration mechanisms than their competition. Good longevity, as you'd expect from a design that's not being pushed to its limits. There is a virtue there, if it matches your needs.

Dolmar is a German brand that is probably the sports car of the saw world: high chain speeds, high power-to-weight ratios, with a slightly higher rebuild cycle because of it. Mine are extremely cold-blooded and take forever to warm up, but when they get going they cut like nothing else. As someone mentioned, the Makitas at HD are rebadged Dolmars and are great bargains. Unless you have a servicing dealer nearby, you'll need to learn how to do your own work.

Solo is another German saw, and one of the few that will sell any and all parts to the end user from their own website. Good quality, and if you like doing your own repairs (or simply have no saw dealers of any kind nearby) they might make a good choice. They are poorly tuned from the factory, so you need to know how to adjust the carb.

Redmax saws from Japan are little known, but the ones I've run have good pro-quality construction (I don't think they make any clamshell saws) at a decent price. My dealer tells me that he's had very little problem with them in long term use with the arborists and landscapers in town. (He's also a Husky dealer, and his extended family owns a couple of Stihl dealerships where he learned the trade. I trust his opinion.) If I needed a new saw tomorrow, they'd be on my list of candidates.

3) As to avgas: only if your carb is tuned for it, and you never run regular gas in it while so tuned. If not, just buy good premium gas with no ethanol and use quality oil.
 

seagravedriver

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We have three Jonsered saws at work. While we were out drilling, (practicing) on a roof prop we have, an retired logger came out. "What the H%$#L are you guys running!" They just scream. A real hot rod. No need for one at home.......well maybe;-)
 

TreePointer

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whats a good huskie made in sweden model for $400-$500?

Any "XP" model you can get for your price will be good. You might still be able to get a new 346XP (new edition) for under $500 at the right dealer. In fall of 2009, I got one from my dealer with a 26" bar for ~$460.

Things change so rapidly these days, but it had been that all Husqvarna pro saws (XP series) were made in Sweden. These days, you have to look carefully. You might see a "Made in Sweden" label on the same packaging that says "Assembled" somewhere else.

There are two new releases to keep an eye on: Husqvarna 562XP (560XP in other regions) and the Husqvarna 555. I haven't run one yet, but the early reviews of the 562XP are very good.
 
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GoBlue

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Under a car...swearing
I have some profesional loggers amongst my freinds and family. They all live by Husquvarna. Husquvarna seems to be the tool of choice for profesionals in Northern Michigan and Wisconson...ymmv. I dont know jack about chainsaws other than which end is the dangerous one.
 

cashishift

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Stihl for me..

Spend the money on the synthetic 2 cycle oil.. use premium fuel with no ethanol.

Works great for me.
 

pipsters

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Where can I get airplane fuel?

Aircraft use 100LL. The LL stands for "low lead". I would be curious to see the effects of not only running the leaded gasoline in a chainsaw but also breathing in the effects of burning it in a two-stroke engine.

FWIW I have a older Poulan/Craftsman 2.0hp 16" homeowner job. I bought gas last April, put Stabil in it, and used a plastic bag over the gas can lid to seal it and tightened it down. Used it to cut up my Xmas tree on Jan 1st. 8 month old gas in a tired 15 year old homeowner chainsaw, runs fine.
 

cundifc

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I was told by the professional saw shop we use in Centralia that Shell premium gas is the best they have found for people to use
 

Davefr

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whats a good huskie made in sweden model for $400-$500?

The 346XP is touted as the best in class 50cc saw. (and I'm a Stihl guy). Best handling, best antivib, best air filtration system and fastest cuts.

The new Stihl MS261 may end that though.
 
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ekeller

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A 280 is alot better saw than the 290, but the price reflects that as well.
 
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GeorgiaHybrid

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In the Northwest, USA please quote brand example of non ethanol premium fuel ???

Thanks,

Do you have any racing shops nearby? I buy mine from a shop near me in 5 gallon cans. Try the "C10" unleaded for a nice clean burn. That fuel is not cheap but has a motor octane of 96, a research octane of 104 and R+M octane of 100.

Way better than anything out of a pump.

VP Fuels
 

camarotoolman

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Stihl has "pro" and" homeowner" grades. Odd and even #s , not sure witch is witch. wide range in price and quality. Stihl is the best for resale, I've sold a few on feebay. Stihl has alot of parts for sale on feebay too, much cheaper than the dealers. Stihl "pros" seem to be very popular. Huskies and Echos are good too.
 

TreePointer

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That Stihl model number system with respect to homeowner/landowner/pro hasn't been consistent for a while.
 

flintsghost

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I have had 3 Stihls and 1 McCulloch. I still have one Stihl for general utility work on the smaller trees in My yard and when I go camping. But I don't use a big saw much anymore. Currently my MS192T will probably handle anything I'm likely to need without having to handle the longer bars and heavier weight.

I do think that the people I know who get the most use out of their saws swear by Jonsereds. I never used one myself.
 

TreePointer

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My current saw lineup:

Mac 130 (only used for sentimental reasons)
Husqvarna 346XP (new edition)
Stihl 290 (on the way to Craigslist)
Stihl 361 (great all-around saw)
Makita 7901 (formerly a 6401)

[Space for 90cc+ saw] Maybe a Stihl 661 when it appears?

The 361 is a favorite, but I find myself using that NE346XP most often--lots of control, balance, and chain speed. Just plain fun to use.
 

griff99

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So I am in the market for a new saw or saws depending on the recommendation. I have both Husqvarna and Stihl on my radar, however the Husqvarna dealers are quite a bit closer than the Stihl dealers, but the Stihl dealers are definitely with in the range of I could drive there if the need requires.

So what I am looking for is a good homeowner saw with enough power to cut hardwood. I have an 18" 40cc Craftsman (Poulan) and it gets bogged down on the hardwood even with a nice and sharp blade, and yes I am letting the saw do the cutting.

I bought the Craftsman back in 2004 for cutting up some small trees on the edge of my yard and it worked fine, however being in the northeast and with the ice storm in 2008, a big wind storm in 2010, and the October snow storm last year, my yard is now a mess. I keep pushing stuff back into the edge of the woods but now it is time to cut it up and dispose of it.

I was looking at the Husqvarna 450 with a 20" bar, but if I go with a 20" bar and a 50cc saw I feel like I would want something smaller for the light work, maybe a 235 or a 240? Or should I stick with an 18" saw and 45cc? Like the 445 or the MS250? Or the MS271 which is about $100 more than the 450.

What do you guys think? I don't use my chainsaws every weekend but between 04 and 08 I probably used my Craftsman less than a dozen times, since then probably more than 50 times... I want to get something that I'll have for at least the next 10 years with enough power to get the job done.

Thanks and sorry for hijacking an older thread.
 

Davefr

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I was looking at the Husqvarna 450 with a 20" bar, but if I go with a 20" bar and a 50cc saw I feel like I would want something smaller for the light work, maybe a 235 or a 240? Or should I stick with an 18" saw and 45cc? Like the 445 or the MS250? Or the MS271 which is about $100 more than the 450.

What do you guys think? I don't use my chainsaws every weekend but between 04 and 08 I probably used my Craftsman less than a dozen times, since then probably more than 50 times... I want to get something that I'll have for at least the next 10 years with enough power to get the job done.

Thanks and sorry for hijacking an older thread.


A 20" bar is way too big for a 50cc saw cutting hardwood. The sweet spot is more like 16" for most 50 cc saws.

I think you need to downsize your bar or upsize the cc's.

A good two saw plan would be an MS361/362 with 18-20" bar and a MS180 for the small stuff.

You could also go with a Husky 346XP or a MS261 but in either case I wouldn't go longer then 16" unless most of what you're cutting is softwood.
 

cashishift

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My current saw lineup:

Mac 130 (only used for sentimental reasons)
Husqvarna 346XP (new edition)
Stihl 290 (on the way to Craigslist)
Stihl 361 (great all-around saw)
Makita 7901 (formerly a 6401)

[Space for 90cc+ saw] Maybe a Stihl 661 when it appears?

The 361 is a favorite, but I find myself using that NE346XP most often--lots of control, balance, and chain speed. Just plain fun to use.

What are you looking to get out of the 290?
 

griff99

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A 20" bar is way too big for a 50cc saw cutting hardwood. The sweet spot is more like 16" for most 50 cc saws.

I think you need to downsize your bar or upsize the cc's.

A good two saw plan would be an MS361/362 with 18-20" bar and a MS180 for the small stuff.

You could also go with a Husky 346XP or a MS261 but in either case I wouldn't go longer then 16" unless most of what you're cutting is softwood.

Gotcha, except I threw up a little in the back of my mouth when I looked up the pricing on those saws!!! I guess in terms of hardwood, I am not really cutting anything that my 18" Craftsman can't get through, mostly downed limbs that are only about 8-10" in size. It just takes a while and my hands hurt from all the vibration. I think something like what you recommended is probalby overkill for my immediate needs, but I will go talk to my local Stihl dealer and see what they say. Thanks much!
 

trboxman

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Gotcha, except I threw up a little in the back of my mouth when I looked up the pricing on those saws!!! I guess in terms of hardwood, I am not really cutting anything that my 18" Craftsman can't get through, mostly downed limbs that are only about 8-10" in size. It just takes a while and my hands hurt from all the vibration. I think something like what you recommended is probalby overkill for my immediate needs, but I will go talk to my local Stihl dealer and see what they say. Thanks much!


I think the MS250 is perfect for what you've described. I'm biased because I have one that I'm happy with...and my uses seem to be very similar to yours.
 

nateplumb

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Gotcha, except I threw up a little in the back of my mouth when I looked up the pricing on those saws!!! I guess in terms of hardwood, I am not really cutting anything that my 18" Craftsman can't get through, mostly downed limbs that are only about 8-10" in size. It just takes a while and my hands hurt from all the vibration. I think something like what you recommended is probalby overkill for my immediate needs, but I will go talk to my local Stihl dealer and see what they say. Thanks much!

If you are just cutting 8-10" limbs than just about any 50 cc saw will work just fine. Things to consider are power to weight ratio (not a big deal till you use it a couple hours), Good antivibe (very important after the first 5 minutes for me). The thing most overlooked on chainsaws is the bar and chain themselves. The right bar and a sharp even chain on a 50 cc will outcut a 80 cc with a dull chain and bad bar any day of the week.
My recomendation for on the cheap would be a makita (rebadged dolmar) from home depot I got mine for around $250 and it will eat a stihl farmboss or a husqvarna rancher with no trouble. I have a 90 cc husqvarna 288 xp with a faster sprocket and the makita bone stock will almost keep up with it.If you prefer new than get whatever you have a servicing dealer for I would go with a pro grade or buy a big box throwaway.
 

TreePointer

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What are you looking to get out of the 290?

I haven't decided on a price yet, and I might just give it to one of my brothers to replace his 42cc Craftsman. It will include everything that came with it (powerhead, 20" bar, bar scabbard, RSC3 chain, Carb/oiler adjustment screwdriver, scrench, and manual) and an extra RSC (yellow) chain. I bought it new in 2008 and I've cut less than 8 cords worth of wood with it, so I might be able to get up to $300 on local CL.

Note that it's a .325 pitch setup, which is not the standard for every region. No carrying case either.
 

griff99

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Thanks guys, one of the local dealers carries both Stihl and Husqvarna, so I think I'll be taking a drive and checking out the MS250 in person. Anything in the range I am looking at would be an upgrade over the Craftsman. I am however toying with the idea of picking up a smaller bar/chain for the Craftsman and keeping it around for light pruning, etc. It just seems under powered with the 18" bar on it, and it seems like most of the Husqvarna's and Stihl's that are 40cc come with a 16" bar. Oregon seems to make replacements that are pretty cheap and should fit fine at least by their specs...
 

griff99

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I ended up going with the MS250C with the easy to start and the tooless bar adjuster. Nice little saw and it will be perfect for my storm cleanup efforts. I actually bought 2, one for myself, and one for my dad as a birthday present. And I found a great dealer who spent a lot of time going over the features of the various saws and making sure I got exactly what I needed.
 

sometoyotaguy

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I'll have to put in my plug for the Stihl MS290. I've had mine for 7 years with no new parts needed. I cut 5-6 cord a year with it, and I'm only on my second chain. It's not the most powerful saw you can buy, but it's done everything I've needed.

If you buy a used one, just make sure you can run it first.

arboristsite.com has more info than you can shake a stick at for saws.

edit: I just saw that you bought something else. The 250 is a good little saw.
 
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