Chainsaw sharpener - waht to buy.

[catsteve]

Hello all.
A friend of mine has been sharpening by hand saws and chains for 60 years. He has decided that he would like to buy a new fangled electric chain sharpener.
I have done some research by am yet to come up with a definitive solution.
His hands are a little tired as are his eyes.
So my options as i see them are
1. Hand held sharpener (dremel type)
2. 12V 'on bar' grinding disc type
3. Bench mount grinding disc (240v) (Remove chain each sharpen)

I am leaning toward the 'on bar' where the chain doesnt get removed every time.

I could use some quick opinions from those who have used each type. and any comments on ease of use.

Thanks in advance

 

[theoldwizard1]

Any hand held "power" sharpening tool can mess up anything that needs to be sharpened VERY quickly !

Unless he cuts a LOT of wood, tell him to buy 3 or 4 spare chains and then we he is down to the last one take them to someone who has the proper equipment. It used to be about $5/chain for a 14-18" bar.

Keep them each in their own HD zip lock bags.

 

[mayday0017]

Have a friend who has owned a tree company for 25-30 years, still says best way to sharpen a chain is with a file. He says powe sharpeners remove to much material so the chains won't last long enough. Most important thing is keep chains out of the dirt and out of shingles and they will stay sharp for a long long time. During hurricane season we removed about 20-30 trees from roofs a week and prob 50-100 on the ground. It wasn't uncommon to go 5 days with out sharpening a chain once, but you bump someone's shingles on their roof while you are getting a tree off the house and that chain so dull you couldn't cut butter!

 

[Lightfoot]

I bought a used foley-belsaw at auction. it works great, is very accurate and quick. It's the only one i've ever used so i can't compare it to any other brands, but i'm very pleased with it. Most chains (depending on length) i can have super sharp in just minutes. You can take as much or as little material off as you want. I only "skin" the edge of the teeth so i usually get many sharpens out of a chain. It's all that's really necessary.

 

[luvit]

i hand-sharpen mine while in the field..
i don't know if someone who has tired hands and eyes would use more than a dremel tool as a power tool.
Here is my Stihl sharpener with a guide.. i shapren chains in about a minute.. so maybe it'll take him just a few minutes?

here is a youtube video which i learned from years ago.

.
.

 

[bobcatdan]

I asked basiclly the same question a while back and it was pretty evenly spilt between hand filing or buy a good bench mount like on Oregon. What I took away from it was, if you saw everyday, touching the chain up with a file is the way to go. For the weekend lumberjack,sharpen them as need with the sharpener. There is an art to using a sharpener and a lot of guys grind too much off.

 

[rlitman]

His hands are a little tired as are his eyes.

If he has shaky hands, or poor vision, using a file, freehand, even with the guide piece clamped to it may not be so good, but you can always get a real file guide. You get all the advantages of a file (this gets you the sharpest cutters, with the longest chain life), plus all the advantages of a machine (perfect alignment). The actual act of pushing the file really isn't that big a deal. It just takes maybe 10 strokes per chisel, IF things are pretty bad. That's the least concern.

The Oregon one is just as good as the Stihl, but MUCH cheaper.

Oh, and the bench mount version of these are no better than the ones that clamp to the bar. It's the kind of thing you would only want, if you were in a shop, filing loose chains.

 

[malibu101]

On the note of sharpening chains - I have no idea.

On another note - If using on "on-bar" type sharpener---
Do you really want the metal filings to get down in the guides of the bar and wear it?
Sawdust is more forgiving than metal chips or grinding stone dust in the guides.

But again, I don't know anythng about any sharpening proccess.

 

[Hetman]

Definitely bench mount. Dremel type wears out pretty quick.

 

[Provincial]

There are two basic saw chain tooth designs: The "chipper", which has a rounded gullet and cutting edge. It is hand-sharpened with a round file. The "chisel", which has an angled gullet and the cutting edge has a sharp corner. It is hand-sharpened with a diamond shaped file. The Chipper chain is the consumer grade chain, and is common for smaller size chain. The Chisel design is the commercial grade chain, and is used by professional loggers.

If you have the Chipper design, get a file that fits the gullet properly. Each tank of gas, touch up the cutting edge with a stroke or two of the file, following the original angles. If you hit a rock, dirt, or other hard item, it will take a lot of filing to get the cutting edge back in shape, and it would be best to take the chain to a good saw shop for sharpening. DO NOT buy a Harbor Freight sharpener, no one in this area has been satisfied with the job they do on a chain.

If you have the Chisel type chain, a good quality grinder is so expensive that the advice of theoldwizard1 is the best. Get 4 or 5 chains made up and use them until you are on the last one, then have them all sharpened at a good shop.

Not all shops know how to sharpen a chain. Ask around among professionals and serious woodcutters as to who does the best job. Sometimes these "pros" have their own grinder and will sharpen your chains for a good price.

A properly sharpened Chisel chain cuts wood like butter, much better than a Chipper chain, but it is easier to dull because of the sharp corner of the cutting edge, and harder to sharpen right, especially by hand.

 

[camarotoolman]

I have harbor F one for sale for $15. needs the cutting wheel. I had a Foley bell saw one that worked good.

 

[givemethewillys]

If he has shaky hands, or poor vision, using a file, freehand, even with the guide piece clamped to it may not be so good, but you can always get a real file guide. You get all the advantages of a file (this gets you the sharpest cutters, with the longest chain life), plus all the advantages of a machine (perfect alignment). The actual act of pushing the file really isn't that big a deal. It just takes maybe 10 strokes per chisel, IF things are pretty bad. That's the least concern.

The Oregon one is just as good as the Stihl, but MUCH cheaper.

Oh, and the bench mount version of these are no better than the ones that clamp to the bar. It's the kind of thing you would only want, if you were in a shop, filing loose chains.

I'll second the granburg style bar mounted sharpener. It sharpens the chain perfectly without taking too much off. The chain comes out like it's brand new and every link is identical. Worth every penny.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZY1WG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Hetman]

There are two basic saw chain tooth designs: The "chipper", which has a rounded gullet and cutting edge. It is hand-sharpened with a round file. The "chisel", which has an angled gullet and the cutting edge has a sharp corner. It is hand-sharpened with a diamond shaped file. The Chipper chain is the consumer grade chain, and is common for smaller size chain. The Chisel design is the commercial grade chain, and is used by professional loggers.

If you have the Chipper design, get a file that fits the gullet properly. Each tank of gas, touch up the cutting edge with a stroke or two of the file, following the original angles. If you hit a rock, dirt, or other hard item, it will take a lot of filing to get the cutting edge back in shape, and it would be best to take the chain to a good saw shop for sharpening. DO NOT buy a Harbor Freight sharpener, no one in this area has been satisfied with the job they do on a chain.

If you have the Chisel type chain, a good quality grinder is so expensive that the advice of theoldwizard1 is the best. Get 4 or 5 chains made up and use them until you are on the last one, then have them all sharpened at a good shop.

Not all shops know how to sharpen a chain. Ask around among professionals and serious woodcutters as to who does the best job. Sometimes these "pros" have their own grinder and will sharpen your chains for a good price.

A properly sharpened Chisel chain cuts wood like butter, much better than a Chipper chain, but it is easier to dull because of the sharp corner of the cutting edge, and harder to sharpen right, especially by hand.

There's no chipper since ages... All non-full-chisel designs are semi chisel, chamfered chisel and similar.

 

[Provincial]

Still the difference is rounded gullet to sharp edge gullet, and the corner is rounded vs. square and sharp.

 

[2oolhound]

OP says this guy wants an electric sharpener, a lot of the examples posted are merely guides for using a hand file. I was a faller for about 15 years and remember when the electric ones started coming out. I wanted one but never bought one or even tried one. I'd definitely get a clamp on type and one with a disc instead of a cyndrical stone which would wear out fast.

We called the chains flat top or round top in these parts and you could use round files on both types or triangular files on the flat top which was the best for clean wood.

I've been in wood where the spring run off packed an inch of silt (sand) against the tree for up to 6' high. You had to take your ax and peel the tree where you were going to cut and still you had to sharpen your saw every 5 or 6 trees. The 1st 5 or 6 teeth that hit a rock granule would get bent down so you would have to file those teeth back a 1/16th inch or more and eventually your chain had a lot of different lengths of teeth. Evening them up took a very long time, was hard on the fingers and wore out files. Having a battery operated one at the landing would be great to restore the chain when you went back to your truck for more fuel and chain oil.

That was 25 years ago but a landscaper I know who knew I'd built log homes and logged convinced me to take this contract to build this log gate this spring. The logs were salvaged off the beach along the pacific ocean so every check (crack) in the logs were full of sand. I can relate to the OP here because of this experience and I was so tempted to get an electric sharpener but I would get a 110 volt disc type that clamps to the bar now since I don't go back in the bush anymore and am close to electricity.

 

[scarrylarry]

Hello all.
A friend of mine has been sharpening by hand saws and chains for 60 years. He has decided that he would like to buy a new fangled electric chain sharpener.
I have done some research by am yet to come up with a definitive solution.
His hands are a little tired as are his eyes.
So my options as i see them are
1. Hand held sharpener (dremel type)
2. 12V 'on bar' grinding disc type
3. Bench mount grinding disc (240v) (Remove chain each sharpen)

I am leaning toward the 'on bar' where the chain doesnt get removed every time.

I could use some quick opinions from those who have used each type. and any comments on ease of use

Thanks in advance

Just to let you know I'm not a chain expert nor do I sharpen chains yet but I do collect chainsaws and I'm on an excellent website that can steer you in any way you want to go regarding sharpening chains.Have a look fellas I think you'll like what you see.
www.arboristsite.com
scarrylarry

 

[rlitman]

On another note - If using on "on-bar" type sharpener---
Do you really want the metal filings to get down in the guides of the bar and wear it?
Sawdust is more forgiving than metal chips or grinding stone dust in the guides.

Well, when I sharpen my chain, I do it on the bar, since I don't have a bench mounted setup. I just clamp the bar in the vise at the end of my bench, and file till I'm happy.
When I'm done sharpening, I drop the chain in an ultrasonic cleaner with some kerosene, clean out the bar and sprocket, grab my second chain from its ziplock bag, and I flip the bar over before putting it back in the saw.
When the ultrasonic is done, the first chain goes into the bag.

In any case, any dirt your chain picks up, is far more likely to damage things than metal filings. I would be concerned if I used a dremel, or any abrasive grinder, but with just a file, I'm not too worried. Anyway, the bar oil should wash out most crud that gets in there. Now if your oiler is having trouble, that is a big problem.

OP says this guy wants an electric sharpener, a lot of the examples posted are merely guides for using a hand file.

I've been in wood where the spring run off packed an inch of silt (sand) against the tree for up to 6' high. You had to take your ax and peel the tree where you were going to cut and still you had to sharpen your saw every 5 or 6 trees. The 1st 5 or 6 teeth that hit a rock granule would get bent down so you would have to file those teeth back a 1/16th inch or more and eventually your chain had a lot of different lengths of teeth. Evening them up took a very long time, was hard on the fingers and wore out files. Having a battery operated one at the landing would be great to restore the chain when you went back to your truck for more fuel and chain oil.

They do make a battery operated file. It kind of oscillates back and forth. Still far better than a dremel or rotary grinder.

Your situations though, scream carbide tipped chain to me. Yeah, you've got to drop them off at a place that can diamond grind them, but not that often.

 

[skyking]

I have a Harbor Freight. It works well and is worth the $30 I paid for it .It is not heavy duty but with care it should last me.

 

[Hetman]

Just recalled: show him Oregon PowerSharp :E .

 

[sometoyotaguy]

I can't help you on the grinder, but I touch mine up by hand every tankful. I may get a chain sharpened on a grinder if it starts cutting unevenly, or pulls to one side. Unless you are very careful, you'll only sharpen your chain 3-4 times on a grinder before having to replace it.

 

[2oolhound]

Your situations though, scream carbide tipped chain to me. Yeah, you've got to drop them off at a place that can diamond grind them, but not that often.

Carbide tipped huh, I'd never heard of it but then I've been out of the scene for 25 years. I sure would have tried it in that silt though. Trouble with carbide tips though would be your chain would stretch before you wore the teeth out unless they strengthened the links too. If they weren't too pricey it would be worth it. I'd wear out 2 or 3 sprocket tips a week and the bars wore out pretty fast too. I never went back there after that one season (up by the Yukon border 1/2 way to Alaska).

I just googled "electric chainsaw sharpener" and it's mind boggling how many there are. Sorry, I have never used one so can't help there.

 

[catsteve]

Thanks for the replies everyone. your replies are very helpful.
I will go and have a look at a few that are in use.
regards