Chainsaw Sharpener?

[KnightFire]

I own a Stihl Farm Boss and usually go through about 4-6 chains a season, I take these to my local TSC and they sharpen them for me for $5.00 per blade, IMO this is a pretty darn good deal; however, I want to be able to sharpen my own blades, should the need arise.

I know nothing about the various styles, makes, or models, so please educate me!

The goal is to be able to quickly sharpen my chains when I don't have the time to run to TSC.

I honestly don't know which is better, a bar-mounted/hand held sharpener or if an electric bench-top sharpener.

Educate me!

 

[Steve_P]

If you can afford it, and justify it, a "real" bench top unit is the only way to go; a file doesn't compare. I think the power eq store I worked at had a Stihl unit, and I did thousands of chains on it over the yrs and I know we did nothing to it other than change grinding wheels. But at 6 chains a season, that's not really much, so I wouldn't think you could justify buying a real sharpener unless you can find one for $100-200. I would keep 4-6 spares and bring them in two at a time for sharpening.

 

[leftyz]

My dad always just used a regular round file. Sharpened it while us kids would unload the firewood we just got.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RA76/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[woody 73]

Wow very good advise I could not agree more. I keep several sets of chains for my woodworking needs. The only thing I might add is this: If you already own a dremmel tool they make little add on kits to sharpen a chain,or you can buy a chinese type tool that you hook up to your car battery,(not much money maybe HF might have one).

like leftyz mentioned the handheld tool also works well ,all very good advise.

 

[wendell]

Going through 4-6 chains a season is pretty wild. Used to run a chain saw for a living and never fiddled with any gizmos. A round file and a flat file is all you need. Maintaining the right tooth/ raker relationship for the type of wood you're cutting is the only skill needed. So long as you understand how and why a chain saw cuts, it'll take you about an hour to learn.

 

[Bolster]

I was also going to ask this question eventually, so I'm watching this thread. I've been looking at the different options. A professional bench top unit is just out, that's silly, I only need it for my own saw once in awhile. I've read (rumor?) that files don't work so well when the chain work-hardens? Don't know if that's true or not but people say it. I'm interested in these diamond coated dremel or fordom bits, sized to the chain (there are apparently 3 different sizes you have to get the correct one for your chain).

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=40928&cat=1,43072,43086

Lee Valley also carries:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=48079&cat=1,43072,43086

 

[american lockpicker]

I recommend Oregon(Swiss or Italian) or Husqvarna(Swedish or German) files.

 

[Flathead Youngin']

search craigslist.....

foley belsaw made a good one called a 308......you can still get parts and i have a manual for one....

 

[cashishift]

Going through 4-6 chains a season is pretty wild. Used to run a chain saw for a living and never fiddled with any gizmos. A round file and a flat file is all you need. Maintaining the right tooth/ raker relationship for the type of wood you're cutting is the only skill needed. So long as you understand how and why a chain saw cuts, it'll take you about an hour to learn.

I read this as he needs to bring them in to be sharpened.... because he doesn't do it himself.

I just cut up some super sappy long needled pine trees a couple weeks ago.

2 blades were super dull by the end.

I have a local shop sharpen them.. as i generally don't cut down sappy trees.

 

[gabeancounter]

Going through 4-6 chains a season is pretty wild. Used to run a chain saw for a living and never fiddled with any gizmos. A round file and a flat file is all you need. Maintaining the right tooth/ raker relationship for the type of wood you're cutting is the only skill needed. So long as you understand how and why a chain saw cuts, it'll take you about an hour to learn.

Use a file. Touch up the chain every tank or second tank of gas. I buy chains from http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF 72LGX66

That is enough chains to cut a massive amount of wood. I only cut around 6 cords a year. One chain a year on average. I think the grinders take off to much tooth. You can sharpen a chain with a file in less than 5 min and not have to mess with taking it on and off.

Find a good chainsaw shop and tell them you will buy the file and couple chains if they show you how to properly sharpen the chain. Bring in the saw with a dull chain.

 

[larry_g]

I have filed chains for years. Yes you must have the proper file for the chain your sharpening. I find that after many sharpenings that I have one side of the chain different than the other and the saw starts to cut to one side. At that time I will take it in and have it sharpened at the saw shop. The teeth get unbalanced because of havingto sharpen from both sides and being right handed I will be stronger on one side than the other. You also have to be aware that the chain is different for hardwoods and soft woods.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Call me the Breeze]

I just run the file over them every tank full of gas or two, After you get the hang of it, it really is no bother.

 

[Bubbles]

I use a round file in a guide.

It works great and helps me keep the correct angle.

 

[lipadj46]

Using a round file is pretty easy and effective as everyone has said, remember once you file the cutting teeth below the raker you need to file the rakers down.

 

[leadnbrass]

This is a good video...follow it with a round file.

You really don't need a guide once you get the hang of it.

Keep the file nearby and give it a quick sharpen once you feel the saw bogging a bit.

Real quick and easy.

 

[shotgunfatcat]

I know harbor freight sells a bench top chainsaw grinder for like 30-50 bucks....

http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-93213.html

ah 40 bucks. Don't know how it works though, not a fan of the HF. Just saw it there on my one and only visit.

 

[MN4x4]

I always seemed to dull my chains on the weekend when I couldn't take them in to be shrapened, and then I lost the whole weekend for cutting up logs. I have four chains for my saw, and can go through all four in a weekend of serious cutting. All it takes is hitting the ground, or running into something buried in the log to make a chain pretty much useless until it's sharpened.

I bought the unit from Northern Tool that runs about $79 - less if on sale. If I had it to do over again I'd buy the one from Harbor Freight, as it looks identical but costs less.

I can sharpen a chain in about 5 minutes with nearly no effort. It will cut perfectly and not pull - which can be dangerous. Also, I adjust the sharpener to 'just' shave the dull area, so I am getting much more life out of my chains than I did when I had them commercially sharpened.

I am much less tolerant of a dull chain now, and really enjoy always having a 'fresh' sharp chain ready to go on the saw. If you can justify it, buy one. It will be one of those things that you can't believe you waited so long to do!

 

[Travo131]

I have filed chains for years. Yes you must have the proper file for the chain your sharpening. I find that after many sharpenings that I have one side of the chain different than the other and the saw starts to cut to one side. At that time I will take it in and have it sharpened at the saw shop. The teeth get unbalanced because of havingto sharpen from both sides and being right handed I will be stronger on one side than the other. You also have to be aware that the chain is different for hardwoods and soft woods.

lg
no neat sig line

If you are getting one side different just take an extra swip on one side. So say your right dom do two swipes on the right and three on the left. If you play around with it you will always keep you chains pretty even. I have sharped a ton of chains in my life with my old job (tree trimmer) and when I first started an old timer showed me how to do this.

 

[PhantomEB]

Dremel with the chainsaw bit.

 

[Valkyrie Rider]

Depends on how much of a chainsaw person you are. It also depends on what you are cutting, a dull chain only needs a few min with a file... a damaged chain can oftenbe fixed with a file, but it is often too time consuming.

The HF grinder is pretty much garabage.... WAY too much plastic. The Northern tool one is better, but no where near the pro or even chainsaw addicted models. Like there are garage and tool junkies, there is a whole and LARGE world of chainsaw and woodcutting people, people that collect and restore saws, that own hundreds of them etc.

A Foley 308 was mentioned, and that is a good grinder! Foley also made a 394 that was even better.... sells for about $175-$200 used, but info on them is hard to find. (I know this because I own a 394).

Other main brands are Oregon 511 series, likely the most popular one that is decent out there.

Silvey (VERY nice but $$$$$).... pretty much only a pro or wealthy chainsaw addict would buy one.

I can go on and on, but honestly even owning a very sought after grinder, the file is most all I use in my 4+ cords of firewood cutting a year. The wood I guy isn't residential trees, and it's not dirty wood that had been skidded through the dirt... I'd been standing live or dead trees out on the forest.

Here is my Foley 394:

 

[_CY_]

chainsaw nut here... for standard chain a stihl round file on a filing guide takes me less than 5 minutes to sharpen. there is a bit of learning curve on how to hand sharpen a chain. best way to learn is to use a hand filing guide, then watch file's action carefully. then duplicate....

try to only use Stihl files, they are harder to successfully file Stihl chains, which are harder and last longer than other brands. that said, stihl chains are not worth the 2x-3x premium charged around here.

I'm set up with a Simington 450 for square chains and Silvey for std round chains. cheapest/best way to buy chain is in bulk by the 100ft rolls. all you need are a chain roller and splitter to make up your own chains. cost savings are substantial.... $8 for a chain vs $25 at stihl dealer.

 

[jabberwoki]

I ve been in the tree industry for 30 years and there is NO substute for hand fillling. Go spend 1/2 hr with your local arborist i`m sure they would only be to happy to show you how to do it i know it would.

 

[_CY_]

hand filing is good unless you wack something hard. then a tooth gets damaged and a grinder is needed.

learning curve for sharpening by hand can be steep. once you figure it out, then sharp chains can be hand filed faster than you can change out a chain.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined and it took me 1.5 years of trying before successfully figuring out how. some folks never figure it out.

1. tighten chain then clamp entire chainsaw by the bar into a solid vise.
2. you must be able to see what you are doing. so good lighting is a must. Jeweler's magnifying glasses works good.
3. consistent angles is a must. use a quality file like a stihl in a filing guide. some folks use a plain file without any guide, but save that for later.
4. use a brand new chain as a guide to figure out angles. use a bar mounted filing guide. then carefully watch angles it produces. then duplicate.

 

[briggsguy17]

This is a relatively new system. I have heard that it works well but have no first hand experience.

 

[_CY_]

it's a remake of an old system that never sold or worked well.
this version has guides to dress the stone. note cutters are set at an extreme angle to allow stone to work.

requires use of a completely different chain to work. in spite how promote video showing pro's using this setup. highly doubt arborist will adopt this home owner targeted system.

got a few loops of the old self sharpening chain tucked away. they were part of the inventory purchased from an old stihl dealership.

I'll post pic's if anyone cares to see....

This is a relatively new system. I have heard that it works well but have no first hand experience.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Going through 4-6 chains a season is pretty wild. Used to run a chain saw for a living and never fiddled with any gizmos. A round file and a flat file is all you need. Maintaining the right tooth/ raker relationship for the type of wood you're cutting is the only skill needed. So long as you understand how and why a chain saw cuts, it'll take you about an hour to learn.

2nd that idea....

Many years ago, I had a pro tree company come in to take down a couple of trees that threatened the house / close to the road. To keep it cheap, I asked them to just get 'em down and I'd take care of the rest. When I started cutting up the peices, the one guy on the crew saw that I was fightin' my saw a little and asked me what was up. I told him I didn't understand the saw not cutting for **** since I just had the chain sharpend by a shop with a machine.....he explained just what wendell did above, and then he showed me how to do it by hand and that's all Ive ever done since then....

 

[fflintstone]

I bought a HF model several years ago. After modifying the chain stop it works great. You still have to file or grind the depth guides by hand.

4 - 6 chains a year? WTF! do you cut sod with it?

 

[wendell]

cheapest/best way to buy chain is in bulk by the 100ft rolls. all you need are a chain roller and splitter to make up your own chains. cost savings are substantial.... $8 for a chain vs $25 at stihl dealer.

Seriously,
If guys are talking about buying multiple chains to make it through a weekend, or buying a HF gizmo to sharpen a chain because a hand file is too difficult; the LAST thing I would tell them to do is start buying bulk chain and sizing it them selves. Better to just cleave their face with an ax staight right of the bat and get it over with.

 

[_CY_]

didn't even imply an occasional user go with bulk chain.
only pro's and/or heavy users mess with bulk chains.

just laying out options.... just like the two pro model chain sharpers I posted... knowing most folks would never go for one of those.

Seriously,
If guys are talking about buying multiple chains to make it through a weekend, or buying a HF gizmo to sharpen a chain because a hand file is too difficult; the LAST thing I would tell them to do is start buying bulk chain and sizing it them selves. Better to just cleave their face with an ax staight right of the bat and get it over with.

 

[IDASHO]

I dont even sharpen mine anymore.

I can get skip-tooth husky chains from work for dirt cheap.

Makes no sense to spend a half our or so sharpening one, the numbers simply dont warrant it.

 

[rvr6000]

Speaking for myslef I always thought sharpening a couple chainsaw blades by hand with a cool bevereage close by is a nice way to unwind in the garage. Would be a totally different story if running a chainsaw was my livelihood though.

Speaking of which....I think I just thought of something to do this afternoon.

 

[_CY_]

huh.... when hand sharpened... a chain is good for a LOT of sharpening.
most arborist will touch up a chain after each refill of fuel and/or when saw is no longer throwing out large chips.

if machined ground by a shop, they are pretty aggressive and will grind a lot of metal off. you could only get 3-4 sharpening out of a chain. worst of all... some shops will overheat tooth, taking temper out making chain worthless.

I dont even sharpen mine anymore.

I can get skip-tooth husky chains from work for dirt cheap.

Makes no sense to spend a half our or so sharpening one, the numbers simply dont warrant it.

 

[mdoolittle]

Round file no guide attached. Stihl chain will have a guide on every tooth to go buy. I buy files a dozen at a time. I also use a file for maybe 6 chains and then they get pitched. Nice new sharp files make sharpening so much easier.

 

[Greatbear]

I use round files for touch-ups, and a Dremel w/ guide for the times I accidentally find metal embedded in the wood or hit the ground unintentionally.

 

[synthia]

Hello, However, your chainsaw needs to be sharp. Having a sharp chainsaw means your work will be much more consistent and it will be much easier for you to cut through those stubborn trees.

 

[gungatim]

I know harbor freight sells a bench top chainsaw grinder for like 30-50 bucks....

http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-93213.html

ah 40 bucks. Don't know how it works though, not a fan of the HF. Just saw it there on my one and only visit.

it actually works pretty good. I have done the file thing, not good at it, and for the longest time used a dremel with the chainsaw attachment and got pretty good results with it.

bought a pro unit bench top at auction missing some parts that are NLA, so I bought the HF unit thinking I could adapt the chain guide pieces.

instead I've been using the HF as-is for 2 yrs. now and have the sharpest chains I've ever used short of when they are new.

easy to setup, easy to use, smells like **** when as the stone wears, but it does a pretty consistent job and works quite well despite sloppy plastic and cheap parts. (the bicycle brake thingy is pretty low tech but it actually works good).

it does the job quite well without you having to practice the "touch" of being good at filing...

I sharpen chains for my good Husky, and about 5 more smaller box store saws I use so I have the settings marked with paint pen to speed up the setup.

you can get it for around $20 on sale with coupon. at that price toss it when the stone is worn down and buy another one.

 

[gungatim]

btw, here is a pic of the pro model I picked up, if anyone has a manual or pictures of a working model to see what is missing (chain guide pieces) i'd be grateful. I scoured the net for months and never found a thing.

Bell Industries model K245

 

[Bretny]

That is a nice sharpener. Most of the ones like that have instructions that are all the same. Just look up the instructions for another brand.

I have used a husqvarna sharp force setup for years. It files the tooth and rakers all at once...but its only good on full chisel chains and im going to full skip chains.

Il be buying the grandberg 12v setup in a few weeks. Its one of few sharpening setups that you can sharpen full skip chains, leave the chain on the saw and geind the rakers. I touch up my chains every tank full of gas, when im done for the day or just when im cutting alot of hard oak.

 

[LawnBoy-5247]

Hand filing works great, you just have to keep up with it and sharpen your chains regularly or they will reach a point where a grinder is needed. Stihl has a 2in1 filing guide and it is excellent, It sharpens the tooth and files the depth gauge at the same time and is incredibly easy to use. here is a link https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/

 

[man-a-fre]

Dremel with the chainsaw bit.

This is true!