Chainsaw Sharpening Tools

[Armed Bear]

I have 2 chainsaws, A Husqvarna and Stihl and I need to sharpen them. Right now I'm thinking about buying a tool called the "Oregon Chainsaw Sharpening File Guide". I'm looking for a sharpening tool that is versatile to be used on various brands of chainsaw chains because I'm also gonna be getting an Echo chainsaw and maybe some other brands.

Does anybody here have experience with sharpening chainsaws?, I was told that the electrical and dremel sharpening method is not what the professionals use.

 

[Snapped-off]

My dad uses a dremel, and every 5th sharpening he has his buddy sharpen our chains with his Stihl sharpener.

My dad has been cutting wood to heat for the past 25 years, so it can't be too bad to use a dremel.

 

[PDXCummins]

I am a timber faller by trade so i have some expierence with power saws. The average homeowners powersaw is going to have a round tooth chain which you can sharped with the proper sized round file by hand. You can get a little file guide which holds the file at the correct angle. The key is to get the right angle then be consistent on all the teeth. You will also need a flat file to take down the rakers or depth gauges after a few sharpens. We use electric grinders to sharpen ours and we also do use round tooth chains. You can use a round tooth grinder to sharpen your chain but its not really needed for the occasional use. Silvey grinders are the bees knees of grinders.

 

[JASTECH]

What about the sharpener that just clamps over the end of your bar, then run saw and push against it with something and your done? I think you need their bar too.

 

[Armed Bear]

What about the sharpener that just clamps over the end of your bar, then run saw and push against it with something and your done? I think you need their bar too.

I know exactly what you're talkin about.somebody told me that type of sharpener is not really good.

 

[PrecisionTools]

I have a Tecomec and it works nice. I keep 3 to 4 chains per machine and cycle them. At the slightest hint of the chain getting dull I change it out and clean it up through the sharpener. You cant stuff up the angles and when you get the hang of it all you take off minimal metal and your chains last really well.

They also make a bar mounted unit if that's the way you prefer.

http://www2.tecomec.it/database/tecomec/tecomec.nsf/prcat/AD47E80A73B834FBC1256E670057DEDA?OpenDocument

 

[bob15]

Outside of getting an Oregon 511, Silvey or Efco grinder; I believe a File-n-Joint would be the best thing out there for a good file sharpening. It will keep the angles always the same. One thing to keep in mind when using a file, use the same amount of pressure all the time, and buy a file card. KEEP the file clean. It not, the file will take less and less, and the chain won't be sharped correctly. Also, be sure to buy a flat file and keep your rakers down. You can have the sharpest chain in the world, but if the rakers are too high, it won't cut worth a damn.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15200&catID=131

bob

 

[JSGAuto]

I use the dremel tool.

Its fast, its cheap ($25), and I already own a dremel.

Doing it with a hand file is horrible.

 

[jeremy v]

I have 2 chainsaws and I prefer to hand file my chains between occasional professional sharpenings to reset the chains and fix any accumulated error caused from hand sharpening. For me, it is not usually necessary to get the professional sharpening because I am very careful and conscientious with the file when sharpening, but I do it anyways. Dremels and other abrasive sharpeners can very easily overheat the blade edges and cause a loss of blade temper if you don't know what you are doing and go very slowly. That softening of the blade edges would cause your blade to dull very fast from then on and you would need to sharpen it constantly to keep a good cutting efficiency. There is nothing you can easily do to reverse that once it happens as well, your chain is basically just junk. You don't have to worry about that if you hand file your chain.

I have a nice Stihl 031av as my main firewood chainsaw, but I use and really like a product that Husqvarna makes for sharpening my chains. It is just a small stamped metal piece that has rollers on each side. It fits right over your chain while it is still on the bar and it holds your round file at the correct angle and also holds it horizontal to the blade as well for a very simple and cheap way to get good sharp blades.

If I remember correctly it only cost something like $15-20 and it came with a set of files as well. There is also a small flip out depth gauge for accurately and quickly setting your rakers at the correct height, and the gauge has two settings, one for softwood cutting, and one for hardwood cutting. The thing as a whole is very simple, small, easy to carry, and easy to use in my opinion. There are some videos on YouTube etc of people using it. I bought mine from Amazon about 2 years ago or so and it has never given me any problems.

The file-n-joint tool linked to and mentioned previously in this thread is in fact a great tool (I don't have that brand, but I do have a similar style sharpener), but to me it is more for sharpening a chainsaw blade on a workbench inside a shop etc. The tool I mention is a little bit less accurate overall, but it is still more than accurate enough to sharpen a chain quickly and easily to a high standard and great for sharpening and keeping your blade sharp while in the woods cutting trees, because it fits in your pocket very easily and requires almost no setup etc, so it depends on your application which one would work better for you.

 

[trexdoink]

My dad uses a dremel, and every 5th sharpening he has his buddy sharpen our chains with his Stihl sharpener.

My dad has been cutting wood to heat for the past 25 years, so it can't be too bad to use a dremel.

I started using the Dremel after years of filing. A file does good in a pinch but I found it to be a pain.

 

[fflintstone]

I use the $40 HF sharpener. I had to mod the chain stop but it works great.

If you value your time though it is not cost effective to sharpen your own chain. You can however take the minimum off and get a better life out of them.

dont forget to file or grind down the depth gauge as needed.

 

[toms73novass]

I have been very happy with this:

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46012&catID=

very repeatable, use in field or home.

It does have a belt drive, so it does make a funky sound when running, but works well.

 

[alex71]

I have some NOS Nicholson saw files and guides on eBay for cheap..let me know if you're interested and I will provide links.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you value your time though it is not cost effective to sharpen your own chain.

Ding, Ding, DING !! We have a winner !!!

I have said it many times, for the average homeowner, you are much better off, buying a spare chain and then finding a shop that can sharpen your old one for a reasonable price.

There is some "art" to doing it correctly, which is why I do not recommend it to anyone who is only going to do it a couple of times a year !

 

[brianh]

I use diamond files in a dremel for on site sharpening, the HF bench grinder works good, perfect for home, I did upgrade to a Carlton bench grinder with more adjustment but that is overkill for a homeowner.

Get a raker gauge, some just sharpen the teeth without filing the rakers if the rakers are too high a sharp chain still will not cut.

 

[cj7365]

Ding, Ding, DING !! We have a winner !!!

I have said it many times, for the average homeowner, you are much better off, buying a spare chain and then finding a shop that can sharpen your old one for a reasonable price.

There is some "art" to doing it correctly, which is why I do not recommend it to anyone who is only going to do it a couple of times a year !

are you kidding me, so what you got to go to college or tech school to learn how to sharpen a blade, give me a brake

I have sharpen numerous chain saw chains with good results using the dremel attatchement

 

[Armed Bear]

I'm gonna be using my chainsaws out in the field as a side job, so I'm thinking I should start out with the file guide method and then eventually get a professional device for sharpening.

I'm definetly gonna look into the sharpeners you guys suggested.

Thanks.

 

[Sureshot]

I think the key is to touch up the chain at coffee breaks etc and not let it get too dull. Once it is too far gone it is a pain to use a file but not if you keep it up. This tip was given to me years ago by a career logger.

 

[demographic]

THIS book is worth a read and really, sharpening by hand isn't that hard at all.

Give it a few goes and if you don't get at least as good results as the shops who frequently blue the cutters then I'd be quite surprised.

I touch the cutters up at about every two tanks full of fuel. Its easy.

 

[carterbeauford]

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ural&cm_cat=netconcepts&cm_pla=Google&cm_ite=

my dad does a lot of amateur logging, I got him this and it works great.

 

[PDXCummins]

We bring a couple chains out with us each day and rotate them out as needed. We dont file our chains out in the brush because we dont run round file chains. I would say 99 percent of timber fallers run chisel bit and grind them when they get home. Only people who run round file are chasers on the landing or the rigging crew who is running their powersaws out in the brush. These guys run round file so they can touch up their chains as needed. It does take a bit to get used to filing a chain but its not rocket science. Try and keep the angle consistent and pressure and you will be fine. Get a file guide if you want in the beginning and that will help with the angle. I dont know one logger using a dremel.

 

[camarotoolman]

I got a Harbot f one, I'll take $15 for, its needs the grinding wheel. Never used.

 

[rodm1]

I don't cut much but I bring out 2 sharp chains and a Stihl hand file kit. I like the file kit mainly because of it's bright tool role I can see it laying on the ground.

 

[ZRX61]

I've always used a round file, my chainsaw cuts down trees etc with ease. I must be doing it right...

 

[Lkdelta]

I got a Harbour f one, I'll take $15 for, its needs the grinding wheel. Never used.

And they work

I Know the general thought on horror fright here, but 4 of us at work went splits on one and we keep it clamped on the bench at the shop.
It keeps about 15-20 different chains nice and sharp, for the last 3 years

 

[bob15]

We bring a couple chains out with us each day and rotate them out as needed. We dont file our chains out in the brush because we dont run round file chains. I would say 99 percent of timber fallers run chisel bit and grind them when they get home. Only people who run round file are chasers on the landing or the rigging crew who is running their powersaws out in the brush. These guys run round file so they can touch up their chains as needed. It does take a bit to get used to filing a chain but its not rocket science. Try and keep the angle consistent and pressure and you will be fine. Get a file guide if you want in the beginning and that will help with the angle. I dont know one logger using a dremel.

They don't make chipper chain anymore. It is either chisel or semi-chisel. And if using chisel chain, it can be round ground or square ground. The reason the landing people use round ground chisel and semi-chisel chain is that it won't dull as fast as the square ground chisel chain in dirty log conditions.The below image from Madsen's shows a chipper and both chisel chains.

 

[Matt018]

Professional's use a chainsaw grinder, I just bought one from northern tool that's a clone of the Oregon model.

 

[littletoes]

The Northern tool version works great, and I know one small engine mechanic (full time-worked for the air force as such), who uses the HF version in his home shop.

The electric grinders only cost what a 3/8" Snappy ratchet would cost...no big deal.

Like said above, it ain't rocket science....made money through high school cutting wood, among other things....back then I don't think anybody ever heard of an electric grinder. Everyone was hand grinding....sorry if that makes some folks upset!

This site is all about doing it yourself....THAT is what Tools are ABOUT. Some folks must not get it yet.....

 

[Armed Bear]

back then I don't think anybody ever heard of an electric grinder. Everyone was hand grinding....sorry if that makes some folks upset!

good point

This site is all about doing it yourself....THAT is what Tools are ABOUT. Some folks must not get it yet.....

well said

 

[PDXCummins]

The reason chasers run round file isnt just because it stays sharp longer. You stick the tip of any power saw in the dirt it gets dull. Its a lot easier to touch up a round file chain on the landning than messing around with a chisel bit. There is a lot of time on the landing for chasers to mess around with their powersaws now that there are dangleheads and strokers doing the marjority of log processing. The only hand chasing is on oversized wood which is usually 32 inches or above.

 

[BlindViper]

I sharpen my husqvarna with the file guide they sell. I do 1 to 2 strokes every fill up. The key is not to let it get dull and just maintain the edge.

 

[cheechi]

So I'm not a pro logger but I been cutting a lot of stuff up past several weekends and off & on throughout my 20's. I have the on-bar sharpener which is ok in a pinch, it basically extends the length of time between when you need to cut it off & give it some real attention. I have the HF sharpener, used the northern one, have the dremel and I have used hand files in the past but never got the hang of hand filing perfection.

Friend of mine recently told me something that made a lot of sense. Sounds so simple now. No matter what method you use, if you can 'see the line' hand filing you can graduate up to a power method and get good results. Personally I prefer the portable dremel with the diamond instead of a stone grinder. get on, get off, it's sharp. with a hand file you do what, 3-5 back & forth per tooth? basically same thing with the dremel or you're taking too much off.

It's the same reason you still have kids learn to add on paper so they know what to do when you give them the calculator. I think that's really where most people have developed their dislike of the bench or any mechanical sharpening method. Too many people think more grind=more sharp.