Chainsaw Sharpening

[Southernbuild]

Hey guys, what's the thoughts on chainsaw chain sharpening?

I've used the files for touchups, and used the Dremel chainsaw grinding stones in a M12 rotary tool.

But, never felt like I achieved like new results. I see bench style sharpeners from $75 - 500ish. At $35ish per new chain, its got me considering options, as I start doing more saw work.

So, lay some ideas on me!

 

[The Cobbler]

I get my chains sharpened at local Ma & Pa hardware store, very reasonable & they do a great job. ( not that I use them that often... )

 

[jpaw]

Try one of these in the correct size.

 

[jpaw]

They are pretty much idiot proof and IMHO if done correctly cut the best after sharpening.

 

[jar944]

Grandberg 106b

 

[pcfithian]

Use the right size round hand file for your chain.

 

[Ohio Andy]

Try one of these in the correct size.

Fur the record, "this" is the STIHL 2 in 1 Filing Guide.

It is about $50 and includes I think 2 round and 1 flat fine. So, overall not bad

 

[jpaw]

If you click on the picture it gives a description.

 

[101SCOUT]

It doesnt matter what type of sharpener you use if you dont understand what makes a chain dull it wont matter. I learned how to sharpen chains with only a file 40 years ago and have sharpened thousands of chains since with every device made including a $25000 auto sharpener and the most important thing you must know is what makes a chain cut slowly, think of your chain as two wood chisels connected 90 degrees to each other and when they dull it has worn back the long side of the chisel and need to be sharpened back to a point, use a magnifier to look at the cutting edges.
In my belief a grinder only allows you to screw up a chain faster, learn how to sharpen with a file and then you can sharpen with anything.

 

[cgrutt]

Alternating gullets (or hooks) with the right sized round file. Pick up a depth gauge for whatever sized chain you have and file rakers flush with gauge.

 

[tarmy]

I always have an extra chain with me when out cutting. I swap in the new/sharp one if needed and clean them up later with a round hand file. Worked at a tree service when I was young and picked up sharpening tips from the climbers back then. Now, I am lazy and clean them up when it is raining…

 

[M635_Guy]

They are pretty much idiot proof and IMHO if done correctly cut the best after sharpening.

100% agree

 

[Jswain]

Best done as soon as you get back home, quick touchup takes 10 minutes or less and then it stays sharp.

Same with sharpening a knife it's only a pain when you let it get really dull

 

[Firebrick43]

I use a granberg 106b as well. It does nearly as good of job as a real chain grinder. It is a little finicky to set up and you still have to have an eye for what the file is doing to make adjustments but its a good piece of kit.

 

[finn]

I **** sharpening free hand with a hand held file, and can’t get ths Dremmel stones Oregon markets to live.

I ended up with a Stihl file guide that came with an auction saw about ten years ago, and it’s a vast improvement over my freehand capability.

Mostly I use a bench mounted chain grinder I picked up at Northern Tool a number of years ago. It’s an import, not an Oregon or one of the big names, and at the time it only cost $79. It’s saved me hundreds over the years since I’m not bringing chains to the saw shop and waiting a day or more for a pro to do the sharpening.

 

[bassJAM]

I use a Swedish Roller Guide to hand file. Makes it almost foolpoof IMO and with a good file it doesn't take much time to sharpen even my 28" bar.

I looked into the electric sharpeners but from what I read they tend to remove a lot of material which will shorten the chain life.

 

[Davefr]

I really like my electric HF sharpener. It's not built for commercial use, but for a homeowner it does a great job. I had one chain that was very badly damaged like the previous owner used it to cut rock and the machine returned it to razor sharp condition. If I had tried to use files I'd still be filling away. I agree that the machine will probably remove more material than hand filing but I'll gladly accept that trade off.

For touch up, that new Stihl jig in post #3 gets great reviews.

 

[Prospecter]

Hand filing isn't difficult, and takes less off the chain. The trick is to clamp the saw in a vise that allows you to get comfortable while sharpening. Don't forget the depth guides.

 

[pcfithian]

Only a factory grind gets a chain sharper than a round file applied by hand motion.

Those large wheel rotary grinders sharpen half of the teeth wrong.

 

[budget76]

I really like my electric HF sharpener. It's not built for commercial use, but for a homeowner it does a great job. I had one chain that was very badly damaged like the previous owner used it to cut rock and the machine returned it to razor sharp condition. If I had tried to use files I'd still be filling away. I agree that the machine will probably remove more material than hand filing but I'll gladly accept that trade off.

For touch up, that new Stihl jig in post #3 gets great reviews.

ditto

HF comes out when i REALLY mangle a chain, usually by finding some old wire fencing. other than that, the quick guide thing


or if I'm honest, with the rate I'm using my saw nowadays, I am making a pile of dull chains and throwing on brand new. my time is VERY limited, so if it needs more than a touchup it goes on the pile. I picked up chains (16" husky so not huge) for $10-ish and have a half dozen on the shelf before I've got to worry about it again

 

[308guru]

You don't need a fancy this, a fancy that, or a trip to the store that sharpens chains. You need your brain, a few simple tools, and 5 minutes of your time.

- Appropriate size round file & guide
- Flat file
- Depth gauge
- Bench or stump vise

 

[RTM]

One thing that I've found useful when sharpening hand saws is an angle guide. Nothing fancy, just a block of wood that straddles the edge, giving you a visual clue as the what path your file should follow.

I've seen fancy apparati for chainsaws that hold the file at that angle, I may have even picked one up as part of a box lot, but have never used it. I think this may help as you get the muscle memory to do it free hand.

I've got a fancy bit for my Dremel, and tried it once ages ago. I think now that I am more proficent at hand filing hand saws, the chainsaw should be an easy step over.

 

[sparky 1971]

All I use a chainsaw for is trimming trees and cleaning up storm damage so a perfectly sharpened chain isn't a must for me. I use the Dremel with the guide along with the right sized stone for whichever of the three saws that need sharpened and the results have been better than good enough although nowhere near as good as a new chain. If I were relying on wood to heat my house I would learn to use the tool properly, buy a better sharpener, or maybe, but unlikely due to how cheap I am, have someone do it for me.

 

[Dave455]

If I’m partway through a job I just change chains and sharpen at my leisure.

I tend to use a file freehand, but I’ve done a lot of filing over the years. If you were to use a guide the process isn’t much different.

Some consideration's. Most chainsaw manufacturers files are good enough for one chain only. If the process has got too painful, you need a new file.

If the chain is blunt, it won’t get really sharp till the last few strokes, so keep an eye on the edge you are making, and keep going till you’ve got one!

As you sharpen a tooth, you are bringing it down (with chain in a vice) and after about 3 sharpenings the cutting performance is greatly reduced. At this point you need to file the adjoining part of the link down so that the tooth still bites.

Subject to that, I seem to get ‘em pretty sharp.

No commercial user sharpens by hand though..!

 

[PCustoms]

I file freehand.

After a few years I notice my chains cut to one side. I assume to to body position etc. I'm not filing evenly.

My last Oregon chain was less then $20, so buying one a year when I get ready to cut wood (now) isn't a problem. I keep the old chain as a backup, I should see what the saw shop charges to sharpen.

 

[Southernbuild]

Wow, thanks for the good ideas guys. I'll buy the Stihl device a few of yall mentioned tomorrow, it's cheap enough to give it a spin.

I'm probably more looking for a powered solution as well though. I've got more jobs pending, and a lot of this work is dirty / more likely to need a regrind, not just a quick touch up.

Had a couple dead trees that had ant nests in the the rotted areas, which brought in sand / dirt and instantly dulled the chain once I cut through the bark, and discovered the situation.

 

[Dave455]

I'm probably more looking for a powered solution as well though. I've got more jobs pending, and a lot of this work is dirty / more likely to need a regrind, not just a quick touch up.

Had a couple dead trees that had ant nests in the the rotted areas, which brought in sand / dirt and instantly dulled the chain once I cut through the bark, and discovered the situation.

The Dremel attachment seems to be relatively popular.

I’ve never used one, but a lot of folks seem to.

Stihl offer “Picco Duro” chains with carbide teeth. More costly, and not sharpenable, but much more durable.

 

[PCustoms]

Wow, thanks for the good ideas guys. I'll buy the Stihl device a few of yall mentioned tomorrow, it's cheap enough to give it a spin.

I'm probably more looking for a powered solution as well though. I've got more jobs pending, and a lot of this work is dirty / more likely to need a regrind, not just a quick touch up.

Had a couple dead trees that had ant nests in the the rotted areas, which brought in sand / dirt and instantly dulled the chain once I cut through the bark, and discovered the situation.

If you're forced into cutting dirty wood, you may want to look into a carbide chain.

Never run them myself, but people who do swear by them for cleanup/felling doing trail work.

 

[Ohio Andy]

If you're forced into cutting dirty wood, you may want to look into a carbide chain.

Never run them myself, but people who do swear by them for cleanup/felling doing trail work.

Can you sharpen them? I assume with a diamond file

 

[m3bs]

It doesnt matter what type of sharpener you use if you dont understand what makes a chain dull it wont matter.

I learned that letting the saw hit my concrete driveway will kill a chain instantly ……

At $18 for a new chain for my small saw, it’s not worth my time to try to sharpen it.

 

[PCustoms]

Can you sharpen them? I assume with a diamond file

I think, with a special wheel on a sharpener.

Don't quote me on that though, my only experience was a buddy who was head of mountain ops at one of the ski areas. He figured the carbides were cheaper in the long run for them. I used to cut right alongside and kept my chain out of the dirt, a quick file when I stopped for water/fuel and I was good to go.

The worst cutting I've ever done was when I helped my dad drag logs off the slash pile and buck firewood. Timber harvesters and skidders don't care how much mud they get on logs, but we sure did cutting their scraps.

 

[Mandres]

Vevor sells a clone of the Oregon grinder for less than $100. I want to check it out but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. It looks much nicer than the harbor freight grinder for the $.

 

[f121]

Get better at filing. Spend a few hours hand filing a chain that’s been in the dirt back to usable and you’ll be there.

Biggest thing for me was getting the saw held securely in a big vice and getting my body position right so I was filling parallel rather than in an arc.

Like others here, I keep a few chains ready to go in case I stick one in the dirt, rather than trying to bring a chain back in the field.

 

[Treeman]

Most pros I know hand file their chains. Bench mount grinders are good for restoring the the cutters to equal length and all angles to factory spec. (IF your grinder is set up properly, another discussion topic). A good hybrid solution is to hand file your chains most of the time and if they get way off, get them professionally machined sharpened once in a blue moon. I always carry multiple chains in the field and do the major corrections in the shop. I have an Oregon sharpener (prosumer quality) and lots of files AND some guages, holders.

I think the take away from this discussion is that everyone maintaining their own chain should study and learn the very basics of chain geometry and sharpening techniques.
- Study good instructions: https://static.stihl.com/security_data_sheet/downloads/Sharpening-STIHL-Saw-Chains.pdf
- Have an expert show you what cannot be book learned
- Practice

This is no different than using a torque wrench or making proper wire crimps (I got chastised here once for asking about such "simple" procedures). Proper tools are only a tiny fraction of doing skilled work correctly.

At the minimum the correct file diameter/type along with these very simple tools below (per 308guru) will keep your chain at factory specifications IF you maintain the cutters/rakers at equal length and geometry:


I always chuckle at how chain saw threads bring out the compensating testosterone levels in men: BIG saws, BIG bars, only hand file with one arm behind your back and blinders on. Good grief (this thread not too bad). There's nothing effeminate about using file guides. Most of us are not 50/week sawyers like Jigger Joe the Logger, lol. Old man rant over.

 

[rd65]

Look up Buckin' Billy Ray Smith on YT, he is a character and has lots of good information.