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chainsaw won't start

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I have a Poulon pro 42cc chainsaw. Tried to start it after it sat for about a month, got one little pop then nothing more. Drained, added fresh fuel and oil mix, changed the plug and air cleaner. Spark is blue and looks good. Pulled plug poured a little mixture directly, still nothing. Pulled the muffler, it had a lot of oil in it. pretty much at a lose at this point.
 
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pauls_workshop

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If it failed to start with the direct fuel/oil mix into the spark plug hole method, it IS a spark related issue. You may need a new ignition coil. They are available and less than $30 with shipping. Can either get a used one or a new one. To be more certain, you could get an in-line spark tester that you would put on and watch for spark across it WHILE starting it. While starting it may need more spark than sitting on a table by itself. These are standard troubleshooting things to do. I've also found a 6Y plug vs 7Y plug in these is much better. It is a cooler running plug and made mine run much better. These are often hard to start after hot and need to cool down to restart. The cooler plug helps that a bit. Should start right up cold though.

I've done alot of work on this particular model. They will get bad original fuel lines and can develop air leaks there. That is common. Often have to replace all the fuel lines. Carbs of course can always get dirty or old. If the fuel lines are bad, prob the carb needs a rebuild or replacement too. Also, all the bolted joints on these can loosen so check all those. Loose bolts means air leaks and poor compression then. Also, you can port these mufflers easily and increase the power a good 10-20% by doing so. They sound more like a Harley then. Best cheapo saws out there for the money, but you have to know how to improve them and keep them going as not a pro saw. I've actually done some light mini-mill chain saw MILLING with mine, which most would consider ridiculous for this level of saw but they are not bad once running like a top. - Paul
 
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Bigplum

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sometimes the bore is so wet with petrol they don't like starting , especially if the exhaust is full too,I'd leave the plug out to dry and blow an airline thru it all making sure theres no naked flames about

I have in the past ( when I was stupider ) flashed a blow torch down the plughole to burn the fuel out , but thats a daft and risky thing to do
 

organ

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Yes, it may have been flooded by the time you tried all that other stuff. Let it sit a while and try again. You said you got one pop so I'll assume you remembered to flip the switch on(I always forget!). Make sure the fuel's the right ratio.
 

Davefr

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If it failed to start with the direct fuel/oil mix into the spark plug hole method, it IS a spark related issue. You may need a new ignition coil. They are available and less than $30 with shipping.

I would not be too quick to buy a new coil since the OP said he got a "good blue spark" and a "pop".

Adding fuel directly thru the spark plug hole is not always a reliable method of diagnosis.

Since he got a spark and a pop, I'd focus on fuel delivery. Fuel lines can look OK at first but have small air leaks or turn gummy and collapse inside.
 

jakemac

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I'd look more to a clogged carb and bad fuel line. Poulan's are notorious for having carb issues right out of the box that other brands don't see until they've been used for some time.

Mine died on me in the middle of felling a tree next to my house. I had to finish with an ax so the tree wouldn't fall over on my neighbor's house while I tried to fix the saw. It was only a week old.

I finally fixed it by chucking the whole thing and buying a Husqvarna. That was 8yrs ago and I haven't had any problems since.
 

Bobf

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I would suspect a fuel line problem of some sort. I have several trimmers, blowers, chain saws and all the problems I've had in the last few years are usually our wonderful Calif gas eating up the fuel lines, making them soft and gummy closing them off, severing at the tank, or putting dissolved **** in the carb.
 

SteveCh

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Can't say exactly what this is, but fuel-line problems can make you wanna scream. They can even look ok, then when you try to run the saw, collapse and pinch off the flow. Or, I've heard of brand-new lines having a tiny split, invisible. Replacing the line is very inexpensive and worth a try.
 
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Treeman

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I've never seen a "kickback thingy" that prevented a saw from turning over and/or firing and start up.

Please explain.
 

SteveCh

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You're absolutely correct. Don't know what I was thinking. Or not thinking.
 

jaggedscars

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+1 for fuel related problem. Ethanol in the fuel gums the small ports, sticks needles, and destroys diaphragms in no time. I would pull the plug, let it air out for a day or blow out with compressed air, compression check, replace plug and then look towards carb rebuild. Most kits are $5-15 bucks and some time.
 

cheechi

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I start my Stihl saw with the chain brake engaged.
I wore out the clutch in that brake mechanism this way. Granted it was an excessive number of start/stops in 1 season compared to others. This was at the suggestion of the guy at the local mom & pop small engine shop that I no longer go to as a result. There are so many 'right ways' when you ask the 'experts' that i won't ask anybody but GJ anymore at this point.

Mine was a poulan 42cc dressed in craftsman colors and with their horrible 1 bolt 'quick' chain adjustment. The ones on the yellow/black poulan branded ones are the 'second generation' if you will and don't have quite the same issue of chains popping constantly. Still not as good as 2 bolts & nuts imo.
 

pauls_workshop

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I would not be too quick to buy a new coil since the OP said he got a "good blue spark" and a "pop".

Adding fuel directly thru the spark plug hole is not always a reliable method of diagnosis.

Since he got a spark and a pop, I'd focus on fuel delivery. Fuel lines can look OK at first but have small air leaks or turn gummy and collapse inside.

"Pulled plug poured a little mixture directly, still nothing." Should get a "pop" when you do this but didn't happen. Thus suspecting ignition side is pretty likely. May have other problems too, and I mentioned the lines and carb as well. May have a bad air leak and not good compression as a result as well, also mentioned. But fuel lines/carb is not the only issue if it won't pop with direct fuel in the cylinder. It has another problem at least. - Paul
 

WhiskeyTangoFox

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How much mix gas did you pour into the spark plug hole? I ask because it only takes a tiny amount to get it to ignite. (Was talking my brother thru this once and he "filled the hole up" lol)
 

justme-

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Don't pour fuel directly into a cylinder and expect to get a pop 100% of the time - combustion in the cylinder happens when the ratio is correct fuel to air, dumping in a random amount of liquid fuel is very unlikely to generate the correct ratio especially since it can't atomize the fuel like the carb does. Better way is to spray starting fluid or carb cleaner into the carb intake. The fumes will pass into the cylinder and mix better. Yes, many old timers like to squirt fuel in - my ol man used to all the time but I've learned it's not the best way in practice.

If you get no pop on either or carb cleaner it's likely, but not definitely spark related. You can pull the plug out the hold the base to the engine while pulling over to look for it to spark if you don't have a spark tester (but you really should have one if you work on engines at all). Not sure how Poulan is - I know many brands have electronic ignition that is almost never a failure point as long as the engine is pulled fast enough.

Make sure the exhaust spark arrestor is not clogged (if in doubt remove the screen and clean it with cleaner or burn it off with a torch.)
9 times out of 10 it's fuel related not spark. Lines would be my next inspection point. Carb rebuild kits may be relatively cheap but they are a PITA to do correctly. You need special tools to do it right, which involves removing the welch plug(s) and screen, installing new ones, and setting the spring arm/metering arm. You can change diaphragms and seals, but if there's gunk in a passage under a welch plug in a "sealed" jet you're wasting your time unless you remove and clean it.

I'd start with making sure you have spark, then check fuel delivery before hitting the carb. That's what I do every day at work.
 

1950mercury

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I have that same saw with a similar problem. I fpund that the fuel line was rotten and cracked. The line runs through the body of the saw. I had to take it all apart. Also had to soak my muffler in gas over night and wire brush out the varbon
 
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