I'm going to need some help with this one. I picked up this Wilton/Snap-on 1705 at an auto repair shop auction for $5. The underside of the column is dated 1-89. Apparently no one else realized there was red Snap-on paint under the grunge and surface rust, or it was too gone for them to care.
There is only one main jaw and one pipe jaw. Three of the jaw bolts are broken. Someone did a poor job of grinding one for removal - they smeared the adjacent metal so it is difficult to tell where the bolt ends and the vise begins. This is my first electrolysis project and the improvement around the broken bolts has been really dramatic.
I won't be painting this until the bolt issues are resolved. I haven't found much written about ways to prevent flash rust after removal from the bath. With engine blocks, I have always used WD40 to displace the water, and then compressed air. I guess I'll just need to plan on another detergent bath before painting, to get the oil out. But I can't help but wonder if there isn't a better way to go from bath to paint with minimal effort - at least for other vises where extensive post bath work isn't required.
And how about the water that is in the hollow jaws? How do I get that out and protect the insides from rust? I realize they aren't going to rust through from the inside in our lifetime, but there must be some best practice there. My access to the inside of the static jaw may only be via the pipe jaw bolt hole (not sure).
The anvil is in rough shape. I'm not sure what I'll do about that - the bolts are the priority right now.
Thanks for any suggestions.
There is only one main jaw and one pipe jaw. Three of the jaw bolts are broken. Someone did a poor job of grinding one for removal - they smeared the adjacent metal so it is difficult to tell where the bolt ends and the vise begins. This is my first electrolysis project and the improvement around the broken bolts has been really dramatic.
I won't be painting this until the bolt issues are resolved. I haven't found much written about ways to prevent flash rust after removal from the bath. With engine blocks, I have always used WD40 to displace the water, and then compressed air. I guess I'll just need to plan on another detergent bath before painting, to get the oil out. But I can't help but wonder if there isn't a better way to go from bath to paint with minimal effort - at least for other vises where extensive post bath work isn't required.
And how about the water that is in the hollow jaws? How do I get that out and protect the insides from rust? I realize they aren't going to rust through from the inside in our lifetime, but there must be some best practice there. My access to the inside of the static jaw may only be via the pipe jaw bolt hole (not sure).
The anvil is in rough shape. I'm not sure what I'll do about that - the bolts are the priority right now.
Thanks for any suggestions.