Champion Air Compressor Questions

[Burning]

Hello everyone, just recently picked up this 120 gallon champion air compressor. Supposedly was used to run the automotive division of a Walmart center. It has a 10 HP motor thatÂ’s three phase. I only paid 500 bucks for it. I wanted something to power a sand blasting cabinet, grinders, sanders, all that stuff for a restoration IÂ’m doing on a 1966 lemans. I used a 21 gallon HF for a while and it isnÂ’t cutting it anymore.

I want to change the motor for a 7.5 hp single phase, my question is do I have to change the pulley size or can it remain the same?

Also what oil do these typically take? I want to change it before I start it again.

What are you all using to isolate the feet on concrete? I have read that hockey pucks are decent hack for them.

By the way, this thing was a damn beast trying to load up so we basically stripped it all down and put it together in pieces.

Making sure it holds pressure by filling with my other compressor.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Yes, you will have to slow it down to prevent overloading the motor. You should get about 25cfm if it is set up correctly. Put any compressor rated oil in it. I used to use Shell Corena when I was in the business and it worked well, but every oil company will have an equivalent. Do not use multigrade engine oil. Hockey pucks work well, but don't bolt the compressor down to the floor since unless it is perfectly level you will be putting a huge strain on the tank. I have seen them split in less than a year.

 

[The Cobbler]

for your IMgur pics to show up, you need to remove the "S" from the "HTTPS" in your links

 

[84prerunner]

I was in a similar situation but with a 5hp 3phase compressor. I ended up opting for a VFD phase converter rather than swapping the motor. VFD cost $115 and allows me to speed up or slow down the compressor depending on what im doing. I run it slower usually to keep it quiet and cool. Side benefit is the soft start, doesnt dim the lights or anything when it starts up.

 

[830singleshot]

I had one of those in the dry cleaning business that received heavy usage. Great machines.
I would want something with more flex under the feet, conveyor belting or rubber stall mat.
Put a street L on the bottom of the tank drain bung and a long enough ****** with a ball valve that you can readily reach to drain moisture from the tank daily.
When you change the oil and refill it, the machine won't restart until you twist the low oil reset. Mine was located on the front of the machine hidden behind electrical. Easy to do as long as you know about it.

 

[Burning]

Yes, you will have to slow it down to prevent overloading the motor. You should get about 25cfm if it is set up correctly. Put any compressor rated oil in it. I used to use Shell Corena when I was in the business and it worked well, but every oil company will have an equivalent. Do not use multigrade engine oil. Hockey pucks work well, but don't bolt the compressor down to the floor since unless it is perfectly level you will be putting a huge strain on the tank. I have seen them split in less than a year.

So i guess i need to start researching on pullies then. Ill see if i can find a online spec book on the pump and see if there is certain characteristics i need to have in the oil. I was not planning on bolting the compressor to the floor regardless as i will be moving in the next 2-3 years.

for your IMgur pics to show up, you need to remove the "S" from the "HTTPS" in your links

Fixed, Thank you so much.

I was in a similar situation but with a 5hp 3phase compressor. I ended up opting for a VFD phase converter rather than swapping the motor. VFD cost $115 and allows me to speed up or slow down the compressor depending on what im doing. I run it slower usually to keep it quiet and cool. Side benefit is the soft start, doesnt dim the lights or anything when it starts up.

I read into it and without making my own (not that skilled) it is almost as cheap to buy a new motor and selling the old one to recoup some cash.

I had one of those in the dry cleaning business that received heavy usage. Great machines.
I would want something with more flex under the feet, conveyor belting or rubber stall mat.
Put a street L on the bottom of the tank drain bung and a long enough ****** with a ball valve that you can readily reach to drain moisture from the tank daily.
When you change the oil and refill it, the machine won't restart until you twist the low oil reset. Mine was located on the front of the machine hidden behind electrical. Easy to do as long as you know about it.

Thanks for the feedback on the isolators. Whoever used it before i did already put a nice length of pipe to the edge of the tank on the bottom with a valve. I went ahead and resealed the threads just in case while it was taken apart.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

You better make sure you have the electrical capacity to run a 7.5hp motor before you start spending a ton of money. That looks like a residential setting you are in.

 

[Burning]

You better make sure you have the electrical capacity to run a 7.5hp motor before you start spending a ton of money. That looks like a residential setting you are in.

I have a dedicated 50 AMP breaker already wired in with 6/3 ran.

 

[engineer2]

$500?? Let us all extend you a hearty "you ****!"
That one is optioned out too!

Generally for Champions it's:
30 weight non-detergent ISO 100 reciprocating compressor oil
Every 500 hours

 

[kbeefy]

I have about the same compressor. Mine is wired 2 Phase and is on a 50A 220 Circuit.
Model is a VR7F, so I assume it's 7HP.

 

[relicrecoveryspecialist]

Yes, you will have to slow it down to prevent overloading the motor. You should get about 25cfm if it is set up correctly. Put any compressor rated oil in it. I used to use Shell Corena when I was in the business and it worked well, but every oil company will have an equivalent. Do not use multigrade engine oil. Hockey pucks work well, but don't bolt the compressor down to the floor since unless it is perfectly level you will be putting a huge strain on the tank. I have seen them split in less than a year.

Funny you say hockey pucks. I’ve used them on several things as a dampener. I even had a old Chevy pickup that was missing a rear cab mount so it sat offset, I had to wait and order it, and had a hockey puck laying around and said “hmm wonder if this’ll work”, it got me by. Was level, cant say it was any smoother than the other side because I have a ‘72 Chevy C-20 we converted to a short bed, and beefed up the motor to a 400 small block. She did alright on the hockey puck, the other side was just as stiff as the puck, and I just chugged on along until the right part came in. I’ll post a pic of the truck of mine I’m working on restoring, I’m also in the process of finding me a compressor to keep up with my air tools. I’ve got 20v 3/8, and 1/2” drills and impacts, but those tend to be a bit more torquey, especially the LI-PO Brushless ones.


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[relicrecoveryspecialist]

Anyways on to the compressor, yes you can change pulleys to compensate your needs, just be careful like the other guy said. I was watching a guy on YouTube Mustie1 is what he goes by on YouTube, and he did that lastnight. Swapped to a smaller pulley on an older motor he picked up somewhere.


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[Burning]

$500?? Let us all extend you a hearty "you ****!"
That one is optioned out too!

Generally for Champions it's:
30 weight non-detergent ISO 100 reciprocating compressor oil
Every 500 hours

Lol, i almost grabbed the matching air dryer too for 200 bucks! I hope the after-cooler helps with moisture, if it doesn't ill run a manifold on the wall behind the compressor.

Thanks for the heads up on the oil!

I have about the same compressor. Mine is wired 2 Phase and is on a 50A 220 Circuit.
Model is a VR7F, so I assume it's 7HP.

Yup, thats what I figured its the same circuit of as my welder, but i figure i wont be using both at the same time!

Funny you say hockey pucks. I’ve used them on several things as a dampener. I even had a old Chevy pickup that was missing a rear cab mount so it sat offset, I had to wait and order it, and had a hockey puck laying around and said “hmm wonder if this’ll work”, it got me by. Was level, cant say it was any smoother than the other side because I have a ‘72 Chevy C-20 we converted to a short bed, and beefed up the motor to a 400 small block. She did alright on the hockey puck, the other side was just as stiff as the puck, and I just chugged on along until the right part came in. I’ll post a pic of the truck of mine I’m working on restoring, I’m also in the process of finding me a compressor to keep up with my air tools. I’ve got 20v 3/8, and 1/2” drills and impacts, but those tend to be a bit more torquey, especially the LI-PO Brushless ones.


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I have an array of cordless tools i use on a daily basis worrking on my cars and other projects. Having this now will get me into the air sanders, grinders, and much much more that i will probably end up having to get to restore this 1966 i bought.

Anyways on to the compressor, yes you can change pulleys to compensate your needs, just be careful like the other guy said. I was watching a guy on YouTube Mustie1 is what he goes by on YouTube, and he did that lastnight. Swapped to a smaller pulley on an older motor he picked up somewhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ill check it out!

 

[fatfillup]

You will likely need to run heavier wire from the contactor to the motor as single phase motors pull twice the amps as a comparable 3 phase. Of course you are going from a 10 to a 7.5 hp but still check your wire gauge

 

[engineer2]

i almost grabbed the matching air dryer too for 200 bucks!

You should get it. It'll work much better than an aftercooler for moisture removal. Good price too.

 

[Burning]

You will likely need to run heavier wire from the contactor to the motor as single phase motors pull twice the amps as a comparable 3 phase. Of course you are going from a 10 to a 7.5 hp but still check your wire gauge

Im replacing all the wiring and the magnetic starter. Ill keep that in mind when i do order wire.

You should get it. It'll work much better than an aftercooler for moisture removal. Good price too.

I have thought about it, its just super big and i dont know where i would mount it given the space i have

 

[engineer2]

If the dryer is "super big" its CFM rating may be way higher than the compressor. You want to match the CFM rating. I wouldn't buy one that is more than twice the compressor CFM. It would use more power and would tend to freeze up from too little of a load.