Champion VR5-8 compressor "hand-hole plate"

[b-body-bob]

I got a Champion V5-8 compressorfor free, because the unit was popping breakers and not starting. Turning the flywheel/pulley by hand results in a lot of bad sounds (squeaks, scrapes) from inside the crankcase of the pump.

I found the tech manual for it http://compressors.tpub.com/TM-5-4310-350-14/ and it mentions removing the hand hole plate to get inside the crankcase to unbolt the rods from the crankshaft. Problem is, the pump I've got has no such thing that I can find. The crankcase is a one-piece casting, with openings only for the cylinders, crankshaft, and unloader.

I thought they were talking about the unloader so I took that apart but the governor won't come off the crank and more reading finds that it drives out with the crankshaft. Which I can't drive out because the rods are still bolted to it since I can't find my way inside the crankcase.

Can someone help me with a few tips on getting the thing apart?

FWIW I figure once it's apart it'll turn out that there's nothing wrong in there and the noise was normal and it has some other problem. But I won't know until I get inside it.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[46 knuck]

look under the pump

 

[b-body-bob]

I just double-checked the pump to be sure, nothing on the bottom either.

The only opening big enough to work through with the cylinders on is under the unloader, and I'm not sure that's right either.

I've got to be overlooking something.

 

[b-body-bob]

I found additional info on another board that may apply

"Mine is a little older, it's an R-15 with no suffix and the rod cap bolts are accessed from a cover on the bottom, whereas on the R-15A and B they are accessed from the top when you take the cylinders off the crankcase."

So if that's the case, the cylinder has to come off to get to the rods/pistons/crank. Seems like it's going to be a regular barrel of monkeys to reassemble the pistons into the cylinders with the rods already in the crankcase bolted to the crankshaft.

 

[Burgerkong]

I found additional info on another board that may apply

"Mine is a little older, it's an R-15 with no suffix and the rod cap bolts are accessed from a cover on the bottom, whereas on the R-15A and B they are accessed from the top when you take the cylinders off the crankcase."

So if that's the case, the cylinder has to come off to get to the rods/pistons/crank. Seems like it's going to be a regular barrel of monkeys to reassemble the pistons into the cylinders with the rods already in the crankcase bolted to the crankshaft.

Not really. My CH/Speedaire unit works the same way. Have to remove the cylinders then you have access to the bolts.

 

[purplezr2]

I found additional info on another board that may apply

"Mine is a little older, it's an R-15 with no suffix and the rod cap bolts are accessed from a cover on the bottom, whereas on the R-15A and B they are accessed from the top when you take the cylinders off the crankcase."

So if that's the case, the cylinder has to come off to get to the rods/pistons/crank. Seems like it's going to be a regular barrel of monkeys to reassemble the pistons into the cylinders with the rods already in the crankcase bolted to the crankshaft.

Not really different from any 2 stroke engine that you install the cylinder after the piston are already on the conrods.

 

[b-body-bob]

Ok, thanks. I've got little internal engine/pump experience here, getting more every day though.

 

[b-body-bob]

FWIW I finally took time to fully disassemble the pump and found nothing wrong.

I disassembled it because of a noise at one point when rotating the pump by hand. After looking at all the parts, I think the valves were making the noise, perhaps fluttering because the air wasn't coming fast enough with hand turning. Either way other than wasting time and gaskets, it's good news.

The guy who gave me the compressor said it was popping the breaker and wouldn't start. While cleaning parts, I noticed that one electrical cover has evidence of shorting (a divot and burned around it), so I'm wondering if that was the problem. If so, good news for me, bad news for the guy who shelled out to replace a perfectly good compressor.

Not sure if I can test the starter/motor without the pump (need gaskets to reassemble). plus right now it's still broken down into component parts (pump, motor, tank w/elect, and guard) from when it was moved.