Champion ztd1 mechanical auto air compressor drain

[zkdiesel]

New to me compressor has this mounted and partially plumbed. I can’t find a manual online

Lower inlet I have going to bottom of tank, one on side above is my exhaust out that’s routed down loft to drain

Top right is T into unloader line coming from compressor to pressure switch port ?

How do I adjust it so it pops right at the 175 psi cut line? Or do I have the unloader line hooked to it wrong?

Any link to a manual appreciated. When I hook up as Is it starts exhausting immediately, so I need to adjust pressure setting or I have a faulty part that needs love

 

[MacMcMacmac]

I would suspect a failed diaphragm or stuck internal plunger preventing the proper operation of the drain. There isn't much to these, so maybe a disassembly would be in order.

 

[zkdiesel]

I would suspect a failed diaphragm or stuck internal plunger preventing the proper operation of the drain. There isn't much to these, so maybe a disassembly would be in order.

Do I T it into the unloader line or do I need to use the unloader exhaust to actuate it? Somehow I feel like unloader exhaust is what I need but my pressure switch and most don’t have a port to capture that as they open air exhaust through a drill port

 

[larry4406]

Wow my googlefu fails me as well!

I did find one exploded diagram and some installation info in pdf attached.

Also, a link to Hobby Machinist thread where guy fixed his.

Champion compressor auto-drain repair

10 year old compressor started to have intermittent drain down of air. Most of the time it holds air for weeks but sometimes empty next day. Checked the auto drain and there was air coming out of the drain. Pulled it off and apart, simple device, but the valve seat was pitted and the rubber...

www.hobby-machinist.com

Found this boobtube video. It shows how it gets plumbed in starting at around 43 seconds

 

[MacMcMacmac]

So according to the .pdf file, the timing of the bleed down can be adjusted by moving the screw in or out.

Does yours currently bleed off air through the vent holes? If not, then the drain is being held open.

Take the line off of the unloader and ensure that it is not blowing air through the whole cycle. This will also hold the drain open.

If it is, the unloader valve itself may need servicing. It may have a failed seal or o- ring inside it.

Quincys sometimes have a problem with the metal puck under the unloader diaphragm corroding into place. The metal plate under your Champion autodrain diaphragm may be stuck open. It would not surprise me to find a decent amount of corrosion inside the zinc casting of the unloader body itself.

So, rereading your post after writing the above, it seems that you are using pressure switch unloader, probably a needle valve. This will not work, since it will bleed off the pressure from the head and not send it to actuate the autodrain. You would need to use the centrifugal unloader on the back of your pump to do this, if it has one.

 

[zkdiesel]

Sounds like I need a pressure switch with an unloaded with a threaded exhaust port. Anybody have a part number?

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Do you have the centrifugal unloader on the back of your pump? It will have a extended cover like the one in the video. It sort of looks like you do. In that case, it would be a simple replumb of the unloader line and a few Swageloks.

 

[leadfoot415]

Your questions are beyond me, but the guy (Kevin) who services our compressors at the dealer is one of the most knowledgeable guys I've met in the compressor repair world.

Air Compressor Maintenance | Demo

acmm-inc.com

 

[zkdiesel]

Do you have the centrifugal unloader on the back of your pump? It will have an extended cover like the one in the video. It sort of looks like you do. In that case, it would be a simple replumb of the unloader line and a few Swageloks.

No centrifugal unloader on this unit. So what are my options

 

[MacMcMacmac]

The only way I could see you making this work would be to wire in a solenoid valve that opened with the pressure switch contacts, so that the blow down line from the check valve dumped into the port that would have been serviced by the centrifugal unloader. At that point, it would probably be just as easy to install a timed, electronic auto drain.

 

[zkdiesel]

The only way I could see you making this work would be to wire in a solenoid valve that opened with the pressure switch contacts, so that the blow down line from the check valve dumped into the port that would have been serviced by the centrifugal unloader. At that point, it would probably be just as easy to install a timed, electronic auto drain.

I think the key is I need to find a way to put a fitting onto the unloader so it captures its exhaust and routes it to valve. Either they make an unloader fitting with it or something getting brazed up

 

[zkdiesel]

How It Works: Piloted Unloader Valve - Rolair Systems

Learn about piloted unloader valves and how they work though this explanation of their components, and adjustment process.

www.rolair.com

Can I remove just my unloader and add this? Set pressure differential super tight at 173-175. Then run throttle port to my drain valve signal line. Puts pressure to it while it simultaneously unloads my compressor head?

 

[American Locomotive]

Is this a continuous run compressor or a cycling compressor?

 

[zkdiesel]

Is this a continuous run compressor or a cycling compressor?

Cycling

 

[American Locomotive]

I looked at similar pneumatic drain valves, and it appears the control signal just needs to be tied in with the normal unloader line. Every photo or video I can find shows them Tee'd into the normal unloader line. It seems they're designed so that under pressure (when the compressor is operating), they're closed. As the unloader pressure signal bleeds down, the valve will briefly open, then close again. When the compressor starts back up, the pressure building in the unloader pipe will reset the valve.

I found rebuild kits for it here: https://www.sviinternational.com/product/as-2201-04-automatic-tank-drain-for-champion/

 

[zkdiesel]

I lived in Northern Arizona for 5yrs with a 7.3L; there were days I used to wince turning the key! My glow plugs were long gone, so that thing would start one cylinder at a time until they were all running! The truck would shake like a freight train until all cylinders were firing, but it sure as **** always started!

I was broke at the time, so I wouldn't plug the truck in unless it was going to single digits. Even then, I'd wait until the evening, fire it up and let it get to temp, and then plug it in. Having instant heat in the morning was always the best.



I'm going to assume your wife's truck has functioning plugs and relay!

I looked at similar pneumatic drain valves, and it appears the control signal just needs to be tied in with the normal unloader line. Every photo or video I can find shows them Tee'd into the normal unloader line. It seems they're designed so that under pressure (when the compressor is operating), they're closed. As the unloader pressure signal bleeds down, the valve will briefly open, then close again. When the compressor starts back up, the pressure building in the unloader pipe will reset the valve.

I found rebuild kits for it here: https://www.sviinternational.com/product/as-2201-04-automatic-tank-drain-for-champion/

My valve trips way way way below compressor max output. As soon as you hook like or even hold line blowing air into port with no seal it trips valve

Bleed off time and leakage rate is adjustable with that screw but it can’t change it from a 135-175 set. I think it has to be tied into exhaust of unloaded, hence why they tie it into centrigugal unloader exhaust side correct?

 

[American Locomotive]

It appears champion uses two different types. One type seems to be tied in with the main unloader pressure line. The other type (your type) seems to be hooked to the exhaust of the compressor's mechanical unloader.

It seems that your compressor has had it's pump replaced, and it no longer has the mechanical unloader. Unfortunately I cannot find any pressure switches that have an unloader exhaust port - only an inlet.

Really the only way to make this drain valve work would be with a solenoid valve connected to the pressure switch. But at that point, you might as well just get an electric auto tank drain.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

If you could tap the tiny exhaust port for a 1/16" NPT you might be able to capture the blowdown air. I'm not sure how yours is configured though.

The drain should only cycle while the blowdown air is present. If there is air going to it during operation it will be actuating. This is the case if the drain is plumbed directly to the check valve port.

 

[zkdiesel]

If you could tap the tiny exhaust port for a 1/16" NPT you might be able to capture the blowdown air. I'm not sure how yours is configured though.

The drain should only cycle while the blowdown air is present. If there is air going to it during operation it will be actuating. This is the case if the drain is plumbed directly to the check valve port.

That’s what I think I need to do by brazing a ****** on

 

[The Cobbler]

That’s what I think I need to do by brazing a ****** on

not sure how easy that will be as you will have to work around the pin that gets depressed when the pressure switch shuts off & purges the unloader circuit.
I would look at using a N/O solenoid valve ( Red Hat ) that shuts when power is applied ( from the pressure switch) and opens when power switch shuts off and just forget about the unloader in the switch

 

[zkdiesel]

not sure how easy that will be as you will have to work around the pin that gets depressed when the pressure switch shuts off & purges the unloader circuit.
I would look at using a N/O solenoid valve ( Red Hat ) that shuts when power is applied ( from the pressure switch) and opens when power switch shuts off and just forget about the unloader in the switch

Just remove pin with it on bench, braze, assemble

 

[The Cobbler]

Just remove pin with it on bench, braze, assemble

then the air flow is continuous as long a sthe pump is pumping air.

 

[zkdiesel]

then the air flow is continuous as long a sthe pump is pumping air.

I will reinstall shreader after I braze on fitting……

 

[The Cobbler]

how will the pin be depressed when the compressor shuts down?

 

[zkdiesel]

how will the pin be depressed when the compressor shuts down?

Same way it’s currently depressed……

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Home made banjo fitting? If you have a lathe and some free time, maybe machine a collar to fit down over the valve and use the bottom of the Swagelok nut to act as a retainer? Depends on the configuration of your particular switch.

I am very generous with other peoples time and resources!

 

[gimpyrobb]

My Champion r15 was got second hand. I just hooked a ball valve to the 3/4 pipe output at the bottom and plumbed the drain outside.

 

[larry4406]

My Champion r15 was got second hand. I just hooked a ball valve to the 3/4 pipe output at the bottom and plumbed the drain outside.

Manual drain = you need to do this and you need to remember to actually do this......

Automatic drain = it happens by itself without intervention.

The OP prefers the latter...

Kind of a useless response honestly. Sorry if this sounds harsh.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Meh.
What size is the auto drain tube? I've seen too many get turd-ed up and stop working. My manual has yet to fail. I have a dual R30 compressor that has auto drains so I'll keep an eye on the thread.
I could care-less what people think of my response(s).

 

[The Cobbler]

Same way it’s currently depressed……

I'm interested to see the finished product. something here I am not understanding

 

[zkdiesel]

I'm interested to see the finished product. something here I am not understanding

They have a drill port on the side that expels the air. I need to braze a fitting or drill and tap a fitting onto that drill port to capture the exhaust air to trigger the valve

 

[zkdiesel]

I'm interested to see the finished product. something here I am not understanding

Well I did some rigging and captured the exhaust drill port of the unloader and have it plumbed to actuator port on drain valve. Now when unloader unloads drain valve drains for 5 seconds automatically

 

[zkdiesel]

All brazed up, some additional jb weld for leaks and an extra zip tie for anti rattle cracking. Good enough

 

[gimpyrobb]

How much water do you get out of each cycle? Does it ever get to a point where its dry?

 

[zkdiesel]

How much water do you get out of each cycle? Does it ever get to a point where its dry?

It can be dry. Depends on humidity in building mainly.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

5 seconds is a good drain duration.

Where there's a will there's a way!