Changing garage door radius?

[tegguy]

So I have a 15" radius on my garage door currently and I'd like to draw it as close to the bulkhead as I can get it. Is it as simple as finding a larger radius or does the spring and everything have to be moved? I'm trying to create as much clearance as I can for a lift at some point and I just purchased a liftmaster 8500 but I'm wondering if I install it now if I'll have to move it when I go to fix the radius.

Thank You

 

[tegguy]

Here is the current setup

 

[NitroShark]

A lot of guys (including myself )go with a bunch of different rigging, but really easiest way is just to go ahead and buy high lift kit.

 

[tegguy]

I could understand a high lift kit if I was doing 12" or something but this is literally like 4 inches so is it needed? unless I can lengthen the straight and change the top roller mount to be on the door.

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[matt_i]

The spring should go up also, imo, it will probably be the limiting factor unless it could be placed in the attic.

Then you will need to make new, longer cables, I bought the cables, Nicopress copper oval-sleeves for crimping the loop and the stop-sleeve that goes inside the sheave, all from McMaster Carr.

Last need a straight section of track and cut two pieces, I angled it out roughly 3/8" in 12" of rise so the outside door skin doesn't scrub up the inside of the wall.

 

[tegguy]

The spring should go up also, imo, it will probably be the limiting factor unless it could be placed in the attic.

Then you will need to make new, longer cables, I bought the cables, Nicopress copper oval-sleeves for crimping the loop and the stop-sleeve that goes inside the sheave, all from McMaster Carr.

Last need a straight section of track and cut two pieces, I angled it out roughly 3/8" in 12" of rise so the outside door skin doesn't scrub up the inside of the wall.

There is no attic that bulkhead is the main beam that supports the second floor.

Right now the limiting issue is the door clearance to the ceiling when the first door makes the turn.

 

[Ironcrow]

4 inches? Add a 4 inch straight section at the lower bracket in the picture. Move the radius you have up 4 inches (use the hole in the shaft support right under the shaft?). Get shorter wheels for the top rollers so the door still shuts right. Make sure you don't have interference at the center bulkhead where the opener mounts above the door. Keep the same springs and cables. Maybe you have to tighten the springs slightly, maybe not.

Check for clearance throughout door travel.

 

[tegguy]

I'll take some measurements tomorrow and post up what I have if I can add a straight section I think I can change the upper roller and get it higher

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[excavator]

4 inches? Add a 4 inch straight section at the lower bracket in the picture. Move the radius you have up 4 inches (use the hole in the shaft support right under the shaft?). Get shorter wheels for the top rollers so the door still shuts right. Make sure you don't have interference at the center bulkhead where the opener mounts above the door. Keep the same springs and cables. Maybe you have to tighten the springs slightly, maybe not.

Check for clearance throughout door travel.

This is what I did. I added 14 inches straight track and raised everything

 

[tegguy]

This is what I did. I added 14 inches straight track and raised everything

Did you move your spring?

 

[tegguy]

So here is what my setup is like

Ceiling to center of shaft: ~8"
Top roller to bottom of radius: ~5"
second door panel to ceiling" ~12"
1st panel to ceiling: ~7.5"

The opener requires 3" min ceiling clearance.

If I can change my vertical distance to be about 10" longer then I could change the top roller to be one close to the door. However, I'm really trying to figure out if this can be done without removing the spring and moving it up. I'm really trying to determine if I can install my liftmaster 8500 now and make this change later or if they have to be done at the same time so I don't have to relocate the opener.

 

[excavator]

I had traditional springs when i first raised the track. then I needed to install a liftmaster 8500 so i could have door opener and lift. This link i am providing is a fantastic place to buy parts and get help. They talked on phone with me and had me weight my door and measure from ground to top of radius. They then figured the proper 2 springs to sell me and the amount of turns for my weight of door plus the length of the cables for my setup. Everything worked perfect.

https://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/

 

[Viper98912]

You will need to possibly change the door spring, the drums, or at least give it a few more winds.

Remember the balance of the door changes if you change the radius (amount of weight sitting on the angled track vs. completely vertical). A door is supposed to hold itself up without moving up or down when you hold it halfway. So when you go too high on the winds of the spring, if it's even capable or reliable, you have the potential of it shooting up too fast or falling down too hard after it reaches a certain point.

Then you get into the different drums that have different radii per loop, which is now making the spring react differently as well in terms of force and location in the track.

Overall, small changes may not be noticeable, or they definitely might be. You're better off buying a kit, where someone has calculated what you need for a smooth operating door. Just my opinion.

 

[tegguy]

You will need to possibly change the door spring, the drums, or at least give it a few more winds.

Remember the balance of the door changes if you change the radius (amount of weight sitting on the angled track vs. completely vertical). A door is supposed to hold itself up without moving up or down when you hold it halfway. So when you go too high on the winds of the spring, if it's even capable or reliable, you have the potential of it shooting up too fast or falling down too hard after it reaches a certain point.

Then you get into the different drums that have different radii per loop, which is now making the spring react differently as well in terms of force and location in the track.

Overall, small changes may not be noticeable, or they definitely might be. You're better off buying a kit, where someone has calculated what you need for a smooth operating door. Just my opinion.

I understand what you are saying but what if I didn't change the radius just made the door lift more vertical before making the turn? Could I possibly leave the spring and maybe give it a couple turns?

I'm going to call the company recommended above and talk to them also

 

[Viper98912]

I understand what you are saying but what if I didn't change the radius just made the door lift more vertical before making the turn? Could I possibly leave the spring and maybe give it a couple turns?

I'm going to call the company recommended above and talk to them also

If you made the distance more vertical only, you are still lengthening the amount of travel the door has to do. Which means, the more turns the spring will do when you're at the bottom vs when you're at the top. So the spring has to do more work, which it may not be spec'd for.

 

[Ironcrow]

Could I possibly leave the spring

I think so.

maybe give it a couple turns?

If you have to tighten it, it's going to be 1/2 turn or something, not "a couple".

 

[tegguy]

I must be missing something..... I did the calculations on ddmgaragedoors.com and they said the closest I could get the door to the ceiling would be 7.5". I'm looking at it and I don't see why I can't get the door within 2" of the ceiling. What am I missing?

 

[MikeF]

I must be missing something..... I did the calculations on ddmgaragedoors.com and they said the closest I could get the door to the ceiling would be 7.5". I'm looking at it and I don't see why I can't get the door within 2" of the ceiling. What am I missing?

The spring assembly.

 

[tegguy]

The spring assembly.

If the door turns and clears the spring assembly then in my mind it should be a non issue but it's not

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[Ironcrow]

If the door turns and clears the spring assembly then in my mind it should be a non issue.

There, I fixed it for you. The garage door industry is interesting; simultaneously very skilled and knowledgeable on what they install but not very original or creative.

 

[tegguy]

There, I fixed it for you. The garage door industry is interesting; simultaneously very skilled and knowledgeable on what they install but not very original or creative.

I'm confused fixed what?

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[Ironcrow]

I chopped the "but it's not" off the end of the sentence, leaving it a "non-issue"

 

[MikeF]

If the door turns and clears the spring assembly then in my mind it should be a non issue but it's not

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With standard torsion springs, yo Wil never get the horizontal 2 inches from the cieling unless you recess the springs int the cieling or go rear mount torsion, but then you'll need sheaves