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Changing your own oil. Savings?

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iibgdi

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I keep hearing "get your oil analyzed" from folks so I can double my change interval. If it cost me $25 for an analysis or $25 for a new oil change it doesn't take a brain surgeon to just choose to change the oil and forget what is in it. Maybe I'm missing something.

Maybe someone answers this further down but I am guessing that if you get an analysis at say 5,000 miles and it looks good, then you are probably "OK" for not getting it analyzed again for some time.

If it was good at 5k I might try going to 7,500 miles and then getting it analyzed again....just to see what the breakdown time frame is...kinda....


I'm not sure anyone is saying you need to get the oil analyzed every time or even very often at all. It seems to be more of a periodic thing to ensure that everything is still good inside and to give you an idea of the range of your oil...

Someone correct me if I am wrong
 
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Lance-AR

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Little Rock, AR
Quite a few in the Porsche community do routine oil analysis as the 1999 - 2008 cars can have 2/3 of their value ******* in the engine. Those engines have a quirk where the intermediate shaft bearing will self-destruct requiring a rebuild.

I do a complete oil change and analysis with Blackstone Labs every 3k miles and cut open the oil filter to examine it for metallic shavings. Strictly speaking, I could take a sample and replace just the oil filter but if I'm going to that trouble, what's another 9 quarts of Mobil 1? I'm already regularly adding oil to the car anyway. (911's can drink 1 qt every 600 miles and still be within spec as the oil never drains back out once it's in the cylinders).
 

djgcue

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I figured that this being a garage forum that there would be a large number of automotive enthusiasts here. For me changing my own oil and wrenching on my own car is part of my hobby. Sure I have the money to spend on having someone else do it but why would I want some other person getting "intimate" with my cars.
 

abachman

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My Cayenne Diesel takes 8 quarts of Synthetic Mobil 1, plus a very special Oil Filter. the Oil goes on sale sometimes at Costco, the filter is $20.00 at the Porsche dealer. The Dealer Oil change price is a fixed $250.00, so yes I change my own, and add the Blue Def as needed.
 

48RON54

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I'd be surprised if they got 40 MPG. Those old MB's were build for luxury and safety, not economy, they're tanks. The customer they were tailored to didn't care care what the fuel costs were.


I'd have to agree... 25mpg seems much more likely.... I suppose I could get off my fat **** and just google the specs on one instead of speculating here? lol

doh!
 

workhurts

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- Having an expensive car has nothing to do with whether or not you want to overpay for an oil change.

- 3 cars take M1 0-40 and 2 take Castrol 10-60. I buy all my filters and stuff from one place and get things pretty cheap. Oil comes from the stupid dealer for the 10-60 and WM for the 0-40

- On four of the car, dealer will charge around 200 for an oil change that I can do for half the price even with uber expensive oil and 1/3 the price for the M1.

- 5 cars. 1 change a year and I save about $500 per year

- Car repair shops and dealers scratch cars, dent cars, use wrong parts, overfill, underfill, overtighten, undertighten .... you name it they do it.

- I have a lift now for storage so this is a complete no brainer for me going forward.
 

vankaye

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My F350 takes 16 quarts of oil and needs a fuel filter change with every oil and oil filter change. I buy good oil and good filters. It cost me $100 and some change to do it myself. It would cost $199 (average) to have it done somewhere else.

I am at 250,000 miles with no engine work and the original fuel injectors. I even still use the same oil plug with no crush washers! I guess I've been doing it right. Why on earth would I trust this task to anybody else?

I do enjoy doing it. I also take on a few other tasks every time I do the oil change. Grease, tire inspection, tire pressures, air-filter, other fluids, engine bay cleaning and much more. People are generally shocked when I reveal the age and miliage of my truck. There is a GOOD reason for that.... me!

With as many vehicles/toys as I have, if I'm not changing oil or waxing on any given Saturday I AM FALLING BEHIND!!!
 

woodzy

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At our local tire shop (Tireman), they have coupons on the internet for an oil change and tire rotation for $19.99. I usually drop off the car on the way to work and some co-worker picks me up and then he drops me off on the way home. Not out of the way, and they have never tried to upsell other than they point things they see and you go on your way.

I always changed my oil in the past but for this price - no reason in the world to do it yourself.
 

Lance-AR

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- Car repair shops and dealers scratch cars, dent cars, use wrong parts, overfill, underfill, overtighten, undertighten .... you name it they do it.

+1000 This right here is the best reason to do your own changes. No one else will care as much about your car as you might.
 

jb3

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What kind of fuel economy does an old Benz diesel get?

26 to 30 for a 240D
25-28 for a 300D

better for 300SD with the same engine, better aerodynamics


Craigslist is awash with 40-50 mpg claims, which is not to be relied upon. 2 ton car with a tractor engine from the 60s basically does not equal big economy. Selling point for me is reliability
 

jb3

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Not to rock the boat as they say... But if a person has the MONEY (key word here) to buy a very expensive car; (also note here that everything is expensive on those cars), then that person should not be crying the blues for an expensive oil change.

Honey you want cheap then you buy a cheaper car like the rest of the planet and things will be cheaper to do. It costs me $22.00 dollars at the shop for an oil change or just about that same figure for 4 qts. plus the oil filter for my car.

LOL, those cars are dirt cheap. 30 years ago I agree, but now, the things are worth 2-3 grand for a good example. For a beater that runs, under a grand all day

I spent almost as much money on my lawn tractor at 400 bucks as I did buying my DD (which had a lot of problems)
 

skcj213

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I could live with 26 to 30 MPG, may have to keep an eye out. My wife drives an '07 C230, but that is not the same as the old stuff. We do love our Benz though, quiet and smooth.
 

Twisted Sid

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If you want to keep the same oil in your vehicle for however long thats fine by me, I wont say it again: Oil is cheap and your engine isnt. Theres a reason Im still driving a toyota pick up with 260k and I barely burn ounce of oil every 3k.. Oh even better I have never used synthetic in it either.

You're still changing the oil too often and just wasting money. This is on the air box of my 94 toyota pickup...
IMG_20140604_141714_727.jpg

I have a rebuilt 22re with 70k on it and run mobil 1 and change it around 7k with no burn loss or leaks and the oil is still pretty clear. I could probably go to 10k and not have any issues.
 
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iibgdi

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AAAAAAAANNNNNNNNND here is one of the freaking reasons I NOW remember for not effing around with this ****....


I've got my car up in the air, oil is ready. Filter ready. Drip pan ready.....

I can't get the mother father oil plug out. It's in there so freaking tight I have all but rounded off the GD plug!!!!

I've spent over 2 hours and NADA. Now I'm screwed. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

skippy24

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Reno, NV
....and a great excuse to drink beer in the garage.


^^^^This. I put synthetic oil in my vehicles so I figure I save around $10 an oil change but include the time and effort to drop off the oil I call it a wash when all is said and done. However i do get to putter around, crank on the tunes and pop open a cold one!
 

Syberia

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I guess I just don't see the benefit of savings $6 per change to do it myself.

Am I missing something here?
You don't have to try and pry off a drain plug that was torqued down so tight it caused a leak around the threads and then was GLUED in place so it wouldn't leak. This was the last time I had a chop change the oil on anything I own, and the wife's car still leaks slowly from the drain plug 8 years later.

Plus, I can do my own oil change in about 15-20 min. Since we don't live close to anything, that beats driving somewhere, waiting while they work on the cars ahead of me, and driving back. Plus, it guarantees the job was done right, or if it wasn't, that there's no one else to blame but me.
 

rice rocket

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The Fumoto works, it also hangs really low. I wouldn't do it on my own car/truck.

If it's too tight, that's your own damned fault for overtorquing it (or your own damned fault for bringing it to someone who would overtorque it). :)
 
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d.mcfarland

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I like saving money and knowing what oil and filters go on my cars (and that it will last). That's all it comes down to.
 

Charles (in GA)

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50 mi south of Atlanta
For me doing my oil oil changes is not about saving money, it's about having control over what's going on. I can avoid the possibility of some idiot cross threading my drain plug or over-tightening the filter. Plus I get the chance to inspect everything under the car and under the hood. Also, you can return that filter wrench - if you need a wrench then you're putting your oil filter on too tight.

I whole heartily agree with what you say, up to the point of not needing an oil filter wrench. If you are putting it on so loose that you can remove it by hand, you either have very large and strong hands, or you didn't get it tight enough. Most filters are in locations that don't allow you to get a good grip on the filter shell, either going on, or coming off, and myself, I prefer the filter tight. Never had a too tight one leak, but sure have seen some loose ones leak. Other issue is some folks have arthritis. My hands don't work as well as they used to.

I don't do an oil change to save money, I do it so I can choose the oil, the filter, insure the drain plug gasket is in good condition or replaced if needed, and that the plug is not damaged from the wrong size wrench, or vise grips, and is not cross threaded. It also ensures that the filter ACTUALLY was replaced, a favorite trick of many oil change places is to simply wipe the filter clean and leave it on.

I also spend a bit of time shaking wheels, suspension, looking over the underside of the car. I am doing an oil and transmission fluid change as I write this. I found, on the underside inspection, that the gang of plastic coated metal fuel lines under the floor had the two inboard ones bent against each other, as if someone had reached under the car, and grabbed them to use to pull themselves under the car. Possibly someone trying to steal a converter, only to discover the car was too low to reach. The lines were not like that last change. I very gingerly bent them back into shape. Not long after I got the car in 2011 (used low miles '04 model) I found one of the front K frame bolts missing. It had been there, there were marks where it had been tightened down, but apparently vibrated loose and fell out.

There are many good reasons for doing your own oil change, and saving money is not one of them.

Besides, I have a shop heater that burns used motor oil, I need all of the used oil I can get :evil: . Gotta start bugging the guys at work again for oil. They loaded me up last year.

Charles
 

Charles (in GA)

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5k on synthetic is pretty short. Do you ever do a used oil analysis to see how things are doing and how much performance is left in the oil? In a fleet, determining how far you can safely go would be well worth the small cost.

3k is a waste on pretty much any vehicle. Unless your friend at the Honda dealer has a vehicle with strange requirements, I suspect he doesn't know that much about oil. He should do a little more reading.

My dad told a story more than once............. At the time my folks lived on the Texas coast (Port Arthur area) and the guy across the street was a chemist for Shell oil. Well, Dad bought a new '50 Ford with a flathead inline 6 cylinder engine, and the guy across the street bought a dealer demonstrator '49 Mercury flathead V8. Both cars were equipped with bypass filters common of the time, and no full flow filters (Ford introduced the full flow filter with the '54 Y block engine and the first spin on filter in '57) Anyhow, after doing a few 2000 mi oil changes, the standard of the time, the Shell chemist decided to start taking samples. Both cars. They took samples at 2K, 4K and 6K and he finally concluded that at 6K the particle size was of some concern, so they both established 6K mile oil changes.

Dad changed oil at 6K till the day he died in '96 and when I started running Amsoil synthetic, I went to 10K mile changes and still do.

Charles
 

frugalscotty

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I used to change my own oil but the older I got the harder it is to crawl under the car (not everyone has a lift) and then getting rid of the used oil became a bigger and bigger hassle all the time.

I'm lucky that I have a shop that specializes in working on Japanese cars in my area. They are quick, professional, and don't try to upsell me stuff when I take my cars in for oil changes. They also do my other maintenance as needed. Much better than going to a dealer.
 

48RON54

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AAAAAAAANNNNNNNNND here is one of the freaking reasons I NOW remember for not effing around with this ****....


I've got my car up in the air, oil is ready. Filter ready. Drip pan ready.....

I can't get the mother father oil plug out. It's in there so freaking tight I have all but rounded off the GD plug!!!!

I've spent over 2 hours and NADA. Now I'm screwed. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I always use the boxed end of a wrench for getting oil plugs off for this very reason....drilling out a drain plug is no fun at all
 

AirJunky

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Priest River, ID
I'll pick up Wix filters & Napa brand oil (Valvoline) on sale & can change the oil in my truck, my future ex-wife's car, my golf cart, my bike & the boat & save a little money. But most importantly I know it's done right, the filter & filler cap are on tight, the right amount of oil is in it & no one left any tools laying around in the engine bay.

When I've decided I didn't have the time, and got it done at a Jiffy Lube type place, twice the filler cap was left off, and once the oil filter leaked. I worked at a Penzoil 10 Minute lube place when I was a kid & thought I did a lot better job. Not now days.
 

Crazy68Dart

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Savings in aggravation, yes. There have been three cars in my immediate family over the years that have ended up with stripped oil pan plugs, and those guys always seem to put the filter on with an impact wrench. On the older vehicles they would never lube things right, and/or miss the fittings completely.

So, after the issues, I've been doing it myself for a long, long time. It certainly is easier on vehicles that you don't have to jack up, which at the moment I am lucky enough to have (at least with the daily drivers). I can do my truck or wife's car in 15 minutes.

However, it certainly is less of a hassle to pull into a quick lube (assuming you are not waiting for an hour...).
 

jb3

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Badattitude

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AAAAAAAANNNNNNNNND here is one of the freaking reasons I NOW remember for not effing around with this ****....


I've got my car up in the air, oil is ready. Filter ready. Drip pan ready.....

I can't get the mother father oil plug out. It's in there so freaking tight I have all but rounded off the GD plug!!!!

I've spent over 2 hours and NADA. Now I'm screwed. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

With a carefully placed chisel, a couple swift smacks will break that plug loose. BTDT numerous times and its never failed me. Just be sure to have a replacement on hand.
 

JimVonBaden

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Anyway, this isn't directed at you, but these GJ threads on oil are pretty much all the same. They show that many GJ members and auto enthusiasts know very little about oil and oil changes and maintain outdated ideas that are pushed by oil companies to sell more oil.

:thumbup:
 

JimVonBaden

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Not to rock the boat as they say... But if a person has the MONEY (key word here) to buy a very expensive car; (also note here that everything is expensive on those cars), then that person should not be crying the blues for an expensive oil change.

Honey you want cheap then you buy a cheaper car like the rest of the planet and things will be cheaper to do. It costs me $22.00 dollars at the shop for an oil change or just about that same figure for 4 qts. plus the oil filter for my car.

How do you think the average guy owners an expensive vehicle? They do not waste their money! I see this silly argument all the time, which is why some Ferraris have $10K services. Soak the consumer!
 

JimVonBaden

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think I am going to look into one of these. the reviews on Amazon are awesome.

thoughts?


51Pojq0MsKL._SX425_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-107-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCCQSS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

The Fumoto works, it also hangs really low. I wouldn't do it on my own car/truck.



It really depends on the car. I have it on my Saturn Sky precisely because it sits very low.

OilValve2.jpg

OilValve1.jpg

Fumoto-Valve-installeed.jpg

Fumoto-Valve-installed-clos.jpg


No issues at all and it makes oil changes a snap!

If it's too tight, that's your own damned fault for overtorquing it (or your own damned fault for bringing it to someone who would overtorque it). :)

:eyecrazy::dunno:
 

CJM8515

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You're still changing the oil too often and just wasting money. This is on the air box of my 94 toyota pickup...
IMG_20140604_141714_727.jpg

I have a rebuilt 22re with 70k on it and run mobil 1 and change it around 7k with no burn loss or leaks and the oil is still pretty clear. I could probably go to 10k and not have any issues.

Oh believe me I fall under severe conditions lol. Always towing something, I beat on the skinny pedal and I have a 3.4L V6 which are known for longevity but aren't nearly unbreakable as a 22re 4 banger.
 

tdkkart

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26 to 30 for a 240D
25-28 for a 300D,better for 300SD with the same engine, better aerodynamics
Craigslist is awash with 40-50 mpg claims, which is not to be relied upon. 2 ton car with a tractor engine from the 60s basically does not equal big economy. Selling point for me is reliability


You'll find that 9 out of ten people have no clue how to calculate fuel mileage and simply go off the "I used a quarter tank this week, that must be at least 30mpg" , without having the first clue if their car has a 10 gallon tank or a 30 gallon tank.
 

tdkkart

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AAAAAAAANNNNNNNNND here is one of the freaking reasons I NOW remember for not effing around with this ****....
I've got my car up in the air, oil is ready. Filter ready. Drip pan ready.....
I can't get the mother father oil plug out. It's in there so freaking tight I have all but rounded off the GD plug!!!!
I've spent over 2 hours and NADA. Now I'm screwed. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Turn it that other way, counterclockwise............:rocker:
 

skcj213

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+1 Bingo. Just because a person has nice things doesn't mean they are or should be wasteful. Sometimes that's how they got the nice things in the first place.
 

rice rocket

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It really depends on the car. I have it on my Saturn Sky precisely because it sits very low.
No issues at all and it makes oil changes a snap!



:eyecrazy::dunno:



That's not bad, most cars I've dealt with have drain plugs at an angle, so when you add the Fumoto to it, it's the lowest thing on the car, which is a recipe for disaster.

93NSX_2013-03-30_02.jpg
 

RedneckWelder

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think I am going to look into one of these. the reviews on Amazon are awesome.

thoughts?


51Pojq0MsKL._SX425_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-107-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003VCCQSS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

The drain valves are nice if the drain plug isn't easy to get to but I don't see a need for it or real benefit on my truck. I mean I have to get under there already with the pan and new filter and honestly taking the drain plug out is the least aggravating part of the whole process (honestly placing the jackstands and using the jack is the most annoying part of the whole process). Everything else is easy peasy.

I guess I just don't see the benefit of savings $6 per change to do it myself.

For me one of the biggest factors is the quality of people working lube racks. Some places you'll get good people, but lot of places unfortunately idiots who cannot manage a simple task are employed.

These people probably shouldn't be allowed out in public without adult supervision, but damn I've seen some stupid ****. Crossthreaded drain plugs, crossthreaded filters, not changing the filter, slamming the car down when taking it off the rack, and my favorite of all, ruining the engine by not filling the oil before cranking. And that's all from taking the fleet trucks at work to the shop, and it just reinforces the notion that I should continue changing at home.
 

Jaguar Fan

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When Smart Cars were first imported by Penske, the price of a simple oil change was appropriate for an economy car with a $17K sticker price.

Now that it is all done by Mercedes, it is Mercedes pricing. The local Smart/Mercedes/Maybach dealer wants $225 for an oil change. For a Smart Car.

I asked the service manager, "Don't you feel a bit embarrassed asking $225 for an oil change -- for a Smart Car???" This isn't a Mercedes. It is a $17K Smart Car.

I got a blank stare.

So, I left, and changed it myself (full synthetic Mobil 0-40) & a filter for about $60.

The hardest part was resetting the service indicator. The procedure in the owner's manual didn't work. Several posted on Smart Car forums didn't work for me, either. YouTube video procedures didn't work for me.

I called the Mercedes/Smart/Maybach dealer, talked to a service advisor who told me for $60 I could bring it in & he would reset it while I wait (it takes about 1 minute to do correctly).

F That.

Finally, I talked to someone who has a Smart Car who walked me through it on the telephone.

Good for another 10,000 miles.
 
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