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Charles Parker No. 206 seized up....need help!!

toomanytoyzz

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Malvern, PA
I bought this along with a large Reed a couple of months ago. I soaked the Parker in a vat of molasses for a couple of weeks, but it's still locked tight. I removed the PARKER retaining clip and the screw unthreaded with one finger. The slide is fused to the static jaw. I don't want to start using a cheater bar or pound the **** out of it since it looked REALLY good once I took it out of the molasses.

I know I can try heat, but would I need to preheat it using an old BBQ before firing up the oxy/act bottles? I know cast iron can be a bit temperamental. I did soak the **** out of it with penetrating oil before I left the shop tonight. Anyone else have any experience with breaking one loose.
 

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mitusa

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I've had really good luck with this method....

Build a fire out of some scrap wood and sit the object in the middle of the fire. Leave it in the fire for a while and then pull it out and let it cool down. Then use the penetrant and some tapping with a hammer. Repeat.....Usually by the third time, it will be freed up.

Others will prolly have other ideas, but this has worked for me.

Good luck!:thumbup:
 

Filson

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NE WA
On an old prentiss I have, it took me spraying the piss out of it several times a day, for a few days before I started to get it to move with the aid of a dead blow hammer.

I think the best thing you can do, is try to be patient. Spray it every time you think about it, and give it some time.
 

drivesitfar

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TooMany: all your thinking is sound if you choose to go that direction. i didn't hear if you were able to do an Electrolysis tank. have you thought of that or wanted to try it?

we are just finishing up a nice "how to" thread on how to set one up if you want to give it a try and that would be my first choice.

Soaking it in diesel for a 2 or 3 weeks can work sometimes too.

good luck
 

oldldh

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Fairhope, AL
Cast iron is stout stuff...

But it responds to persuasion of the gentle type, better than whacking the el crappola out of it, or mashing the beejeezuz out of it with a press...

A long soak and gentle taps will get it done...

Electrolysis works like a champ, followed by a long soak in something penetrating...
 

Packard V8

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Mar 16, 2009
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Spokane, WA
I know I can try heat, but would I need to preheat it using an old BBQ before firing up the oxy/act bottles? I know cast iron can be a bit temperamental.
Since you have a torch, hopefully with a rosebud tip, that makes it easy. Cast iron doesn't like to be cooled suddenly, but it takes heat with no problems. Engine rebuilders put cast iron heads and blocks in furnaces every day and run them up to 500-600 degrees to burn out the oil and carbon. Again, just let it cool slowly and naturally.

I had one which looked worse than yours. I bolted it to a welding table, covered the front and back of the moveable jaw/slide with wet towels. Fire up the rosebud and just walk it up, over and down the slide area of the fixed jaw. When it starts to look hot, give the moveable jaw a tap on the front and then the back with a dead blow rawhide hammer.

The jaw should move. If not, more heat, more taps. I've usually had results in less than five minutes, start to finish.

jack vines
 
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T

toomanytoyzz

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Malvern, PA
Thanks for the info guys!! I'm probably going to heat it up with the rosebud tip like Jack recommended. I will let you know how I make out, and take some pics drivesitfar:thumbup:. I forgot my camera last night.
 

Redlocker

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Mar 16, 2014
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I'm in southwestern PA, USA
Hello,

I'm new to your site, but I found you guys while searching for info on a large bench vise. I've never tried this technique on a vise, but it worked on a 1960 VW bus whose locks had been seized since the late 1970s. I have also used it on seized turbo manifold bolts.

The trick: Go to your favorite gun dealer and buy a spray can of "G96 3-In-1 Gun Solvent". Usually a good soaking before bed, and buy morning it is loose.

By the way, it will dissolve copper, brass, and plastic; so be careful on what you use it on.

Good luck.
 
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drivesitfar

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Red Locker: welcome to Garage Journal. glad you joined to post that tip and i'll have to try that when i need to. keep reading and posting what you know and we all will be the better for it.

TooMany: did you get a minute to hit it with a torch or did you just drop it in a bucket of vinegar or diesel?
 
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toomanytoyzz

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May 11, 2012
Messages
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Location
Malvern, PA
Hello,

I'm new to your site, but I found you guys while searching for info on a large bench vise. I've never tried this technique on a vise, but it worked on a 1960 VW bus whose locks had been seized since the late 1970s. I have also used it on seized turbo manifold bolts.

The trick: Go to your favorite gun dealer and buy a spray can of "G96 3-In-1 Gun Solvent". Usually a good soaking before bed, and buy morning it is loose.

By the way, it will dissolve copper, brass, and plastic; so be careful on what you use it on.

Good luck.

I'll give it a try if all else fails:rocker:.......hope your not a sales rep for the gun oil:evil:!!

TooMany: did you get a minute to hit it with a torch or did you just drop it in a bucket of vinegar or diesel?
I've been swamped at work and the vise is at my pops bodyshop which is over an hour away from my house.
 
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bigcaddy

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Jan 17, 2012
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Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
On an old prentiss I have, it took me spraying the piss out of it several times a day, for a few days before I started to get it to move with the aid of a dead blow hammer.

I think the best thing you can do, is try to be patient. Spray it every time you think about it, and give it some time.

This!! I've spent the past 3 days slowly getting a crusty bolt unstuck on a Briggs and Stratton motor. Speed would only make things worse.

Hit it with a torch for a few minutes and then shoot some penetrant when the metal has expanded. Few times a day for a few days and then........sneak up on it with a big hammer and whack the piss out of it:D
 
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