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Charles Parker vise find

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ALLFAST

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Feb 20, 2017
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Northern California
What a FANTASTIC score !

Schiff, give the experts some time to chime in, and if you get no feedback plug your story into the vise repair area. Plenty of guys have experience with what you intend to do. That is a coveted model by many, and I'd have trouble sleeping at night if that were on my workbench !!!!

Great save !!!

Shawn
 

454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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Carver, MA
Hi Schiff, welcome to the site. Great score. have the same vise. it's a monster. As far as the repair, long as you have confidence in your welding skills, sounds good. If there is room in the slide I'd locate/machine a piece of pipe or tubing with an ID to match the nut OD, maybe just a hair smaller for a press fit, then cut a slot for the mounting tab, and press it in place over the nut. Steel would add a lot of strength.
 

Packard V8

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Mar 16, 2009
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Agree with both repairs. Clamp, vee, weld, grind smooth. Heaviest wall DOM tube which will fit inside the slide (or drill/bore a hole in a round/square Durabar if you want to keep cast-to-cast), cut a slot, press on, weld sides, front and back.

jack vines
 

Shelbylex

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Schiff, this is an owesome save! Awaiting for restoration process pictures.
Also try to see if there are extra parts on ebay - another possibility is just replacing the part if somebody is parting their vise.
 

Packard V8

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I weld a LOT of cast steel, so I am comfortable with knowing that I can make a strong weld.

Can anyone verify the nut is cast steel? At a glance, I thought mine was cast iron.

The challenge would be keeping it perfectly aligned.[/QUOTE}

Alignment is not the problem. Parkers always have a lot of slop in the front of the movable jaw. I actually made a brass bushing to tighten up mine.

jack vines
 

SweetD

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Feb 8, 2010
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3,265
Location
Rhode Island
Great find, too bad about the nut. I hope you can fix it with your welding skills.

I had a guy machine me a new main nut this past year for a rare vise I own, came out awesome:

DSC_0102.jpg

1020170829.jpg

Let us know how it turns out!

Dave
 
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va.grouseman

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Mar 26, 2011
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Shiff, great score on the 436.---I have that same vise and wouldn't take a gold monkey for it.---Rarely see them come up for sale anymore,---Used to pop up right often on EBay and CL but I haven't seen one in a couple of years.---Bad about the nut cracking but glass half full, if it hadn't your vise might still be in use and wouldn't look nothing like it does today.---Other than the nut, excellent shape.

Pretty sure the nut is cast iron so I'm not sure how well 7018s will marry up to cast.---You being certified, I figure you probably know what melds best with cast.---You are right about not going all the way through to the threads with your V-grind because cleaning those threads from the inside will be a bear.---Would probably have to go to a machine shop and put on a jig and recut/chase the threads.---Some will prescribe brazing which is a pretty substantial fix, but won't quite have that original look so to speak.---That wouldn't bother some, but wouldn't let others sleep at night knowing it was there.---Just depends on the person.

A more expensive but more natural looking fix is Eutalloy welding, or Eutalloy-powder-spray-fusing.---they're the same thing.---I've welded manifolds and cast iron cooking pots and cast iron farm implements with it.---It uses cast powder that blows into a molten puddle of iron, becomes molten itself and fills up the gap.---It's a pure weld, strong and neat, but as I said it can be expensive getting started.---Once you've got all your stuff then all you have to buy is the powder from time to time.---You probably already know about this stuff but in case you haven't seen any of it, here's a EBay link to some examples.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od...ly.TRS0&_nkw=EUTALLOY+WELDING+supply&_sacat=0
 

jrobb316

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May 18, 2014
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I'm very interested in that welding process. Looks like I may just need a torch, I already have an octopus/acetylene outfit. I have a few cast repairs to do and figured I was going to preheat and use nickel rod.

Very nice cleanup, I also own one of those and they're indeed rare.
 

va.grouseman

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Jrobb here's a YouTube video of a guy repairing a cast motor block.---Watch his trigger finger,---Each time you hit the trigger it releases a little cast dust, that is if cast is what you are welding.---You can get tungsten dust for hard facing tools and farm implements, or nickel based alloy dust, etc.---It make a smooth weld, and the weld is flush, cutting out a lot of bead grinding.



https://www.castolin.com/sites/default/files/product/downloads/Eutalloy-powder-spray-fusing.pdf
 

va.grouseman

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Yea Schiff, a lot of Parkers have the spring loaded barring that impedes the drastic fall of the handle, eliminating blood blisters.---My big Columbian doesn't have that feature.:sad:---I'm constantly sticking needles in blood blisters.:scared:---Had some big rubber washers on each end but they dry-rotted, and I procrastinate.
 

Packard V8

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I actually have never welded or brazed cast iron before. Seen it done, but I’ve never had to do it myself.

Here's how I'd go about it. First needed is some non-conductive-heat-resistant material. I use an old piece of plumber's asbestos rope for pouring lead joints in cast iron soil pipe (everyone has that in his tool box, right?) Use that on either side of the base of the nut and clamp it in your vise. Vee out your groove. Use a small sacrificial C-clamp to pinch the crack tight. Heat the nut red hot and start your weld. Bury it in dry sand to cool slowly.

jack vines
 

jrobb316

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May 18, 2014
Messages
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Location
WI
Wow that eutalloy outfit is big bucks! I have a couple Parker brake shoes I need to repair. I have some Ni99 Tig rod at home I was going to use. Looks like that will still be the plan. On eBay look up fillermetalqueen. Rod wasn't that expensive.
 

cutt

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Aug 28, 2017
Messages
43
Location
Alabama
I agree with SweetD. Take it to a local machine shop with the screw and have them make a new one.
 

Mark T Palmer

Member
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Jul 31, 2014
Messages
11
Location
Napa Valley
Hi Schiff,

Have not been on this forum for some time. Beautiful vise. Have the same model and it was purchased from a gentleman in Vermont. The cast model number designation is not as clear to read as yours, though. Thought mine read No 486 with a PAT. 1930. Nice to be corrected. Mine does not have the pipe jaws or the pins that that hold them in place; a bit envious of of you on that. Nice to see yours!
 
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