You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Chasing threads
- Thread starter Zombilly
- Start date
They usually somewhat do all of the above, especially if you are doing the procedure with a power tool instead of by hand. They will mainly stay in the grooves of the chasing die or tap, and it will help if you use some cutting fluid, oil, or light grease on it during use. While screwing the chasing die or tap in, some metal pieces will usually be pushed inwards, and while unscrewing the die or tap a few pieces usually fall out backwards as it is unscrewed. Usually 80% or so will stay in the grooves of the tap/die, 15% will be pushed inwards, and 5% will travel outwards while unscrewing. If you use a true chasing die (which pushes the threads back into their correct position), instead of a thread cutting tap/die (which cuts away the deformed thread areas) you will have a lot less metal pieces to deal with in general.
If you are needing to keep metal pieces to a minimum, run the chasing tap/die a little bit at a time by hand with a few drops of oil on it, and then unscrew it and clean out the grooves of the tap/die. Repeat that procedure multiple times, going a little deeper on the threads each time. Metal pieces are less likely to push inwards or pull outwards if the chasing tap/die grooves are never allowed to clog full of chips and the chips have a little bit of oil to stick to on the tap/die. If you see any chips sitting on the threads after removing the tap/die, remove them with a small dental pick before running the tap/die down the threads again. That will prevent those chips from being pushed inwards the next time you run the tap/die down the theads a little deeper. If you go slow and are careful you should be able to prevent chips from going inwards where you don't want them.
Lastly, if the hole you want to chase is a female hole which threads right through into an area which needs to be kept clean and can't be reached to clean, use the thread chaser but only chase 80% or so of the total thread depth. Leave the last 20% alone. That way you can prevent any chips from breaking out the back of the tap and going somewhere you can't see or remove them.
Good luck, and welcome to Garagejournal OP!
If you are needing to keep metal pieces to a minimum, run the chasing tap/die a little bit at a time by hand with a few drops of oil on it, and then unscrew it and clean out the grooves of the tap/die. Repeat that procedure multiple times, going a little deeper on the threads each time. Metal pieces are less likely to push inwards or pull outwards if the chasing tap/die grooves are never allowed to clog full of chips and the chips have a little bit of oil to stick to on the tap/die. If you see any chips sitting on the threads after removing the tap/die, remove them with a small dental pick before running the tap/die down the threads again. That will prevent those chips from being pushed inwards the next time you run the tap/die down the theads a little deeper. If you go slow and are careful you should be able to prevent chips from going inwards where you don't want them.
Lastly, if the hole you want to chase is a female hole which threads right through into an area which needs to be kept clean and can't be reached to clean, use the thread chaser but only chase 80% or so of the total thread depth. Leave the last 20% alone. That way you can prevent any chips from breaking out the back of the tap and going somewhere you can't see or remove them.
Good luck, and welcome to Garagejournal OP!
Last edited:
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
Use a chasing tap (or die) and it shouldn't have any chips. Use grease for a lubricant and if there are chips they will hopefully cling to the tap rather than getting pushed in.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
Fundamentally, neither. The debris goes sideways, parallel to the threads. What happens to it after that depends on the tap or die. Usually it just hangs out in the hollows of the tap/die. Some of them are designed to have spiral flutes to push the swarf one way or other but it's not a 100% process.
nbpt100
Well-known member
Use tacky grease and back out frequently and clean the tap. Regrease and repeat. That is what I have done when I have tapped or chased spark plug threads. I think the OP got his question answered . Some debris will be pushed forward and some won't. The grease helps to trap more debris. He has not said if he is working with aluminum or steel. It does mater. i have never had good results using one of the snap on thread chasers in aluminum. It has always made it worse. I dont know why but I have better success with a tap. The amount of material removed is minimal. If the thread is in that bad a shape you should helicoil it or drill and tap oversized. But I am digressing. The OP got his answer and a lot more.Use a chasing tap (or die) and it shouldn't have any chips. Use grease for a lubricant and if there are chips they will hopefully cling to the tap rather than getting pushed in.
rburke65
Well-known member
The grease method should help greatly.
CraigStu
Well-known member
I use grease on the tap and I only make maybe 2-3 complete turns before backing it out. I also have a handful of Q-tips that I try to clean chips out w/ each time I remove the tap. Also, if the R&P is out of the car, I would figure a way to clamp or hold it so your tap is pointing upward so gravity can maybe help a bit.
I was thinking the same thing while reading tools4me response. Unfortunately the threads That I’m trying to remove or aluminum and they are in a steel hole.Not enough information.
In any event, a magnet might e helpful.
Thank you so much for your response you’ve given me a lot too consider before I go any further.They usually somewhat do all of the above, especially if you are doing the procedure with a power tool instead of by hand. They will mainly stay in the grooves of the chasing die or tap, and it will help if you use some cutting fluid, oil, or light grease on it during use. While screwing the chasing die or tap in, some metal pieces will usually be pushed inwards, and while unscrewing the die or tap a few pieces usually fall out backwards as it is unscrewed. Usually 80% or so will stay in the grooves of the tap/die, 15% will be pushed inwards, and 5% will travel outwards while unscrewing. If you use a true chasing die (which pushes the threads back into their correct position), instead of a thread cutting tap/die (which cuts away the deformed thread areas) you will have a lot less metal pieces to deal with in general.
If you are needing to keep metal pieces to a minimum, run the chasing tap/die a little bit at a time by hand with a few drops of oil on it, and then unscrew it and clean out the grooves of the tap/die. Repeat that procedure multiple times, going a little deeper on the threads each time. Metal pieces are less likely to push inwards or pull outwards if the chasing tap/die grooves are never allowed to clog full of chips and the chips have a little bit of oil to stick to on the tap/die. If you see any chips sitting on the threads after removing the tap/die, remove them with a small dental pick before running the tap/die down the threads again. That will prevent those chips from being pushed inwards the next time you run the tap/die down the theads a little deeper. If you go slow and are careful you should be able to prevent chips from going inwards where you don't want them.
Lastly, if the hole you want to chase is a female hole which threads right through into an area which needs to be kept clean and can't be reached to clean, use the thread chaser but only chase 80% or so of the total thread depth. Leave the last 20% alone. That way you can prevent any chips from breaking out the back of the tap and going somewhere you can't see or remove them.
Good luck, and welcome to Garagejournal OP!
I like what you had to say, and the situation that I’m in Is that the original fitting and hole was steel and when replaced the broken tubing I didn’t pay attention to the replacement fitting being made out of aluminum. so I over tighten it and it stripped out the threads of the fitting And left them in the threaded hole. This is preventing a new fitting from screwing in to the hole. At this point I am attempting to just take apart the end of the rack and pinion system. There’s really nothing to it when it comes to the bolts, the problem is getting the three other fittings off so that the section of the steering unit will be released if that makes sense.Use tacky grease and back out frequently and clean the tap. Regrease and repeat. That is what I have done when I have tapped or chased spark plug threads. I think the OP got his question answered . Some debris will be pushed forward and some won't. The grease helps to trap more debris. He has not said if he is working with aluminum or steel. It does mater. i have never had good results using one of the snap on thread chasers in aluminum. It has always made it worse. I dont know why but I have better success with a tap. The amount of material removed is minimal. If the thread is in that bad a shape you should helicoil it or drill and tap oversized. But I am digressing. The OP got his answer and a lot more.
Yeah Q-tips is a great idea I’m almost tempted to spray a little upholstery glue on it to make it tacky.I use grease on the tap and I only make maybe 2-3 complete turns before backing it out. I also have a handful of Q-tips that I try to clean chips out w/ each time I remove the tap. Also, if the R&P is out of the car, I would figure a way to clamp or hold it so your tap is pointing upward so gravity can maybe help a bit.
As of right now the rack and pinion is in the car but if I can get the section disconnected, it’s definitely going into a vice before I use a tap on it
I have a follow-up question, and that is how much debris can be allowed into the ATF before damage is done to the power steering unit?I’m going to be chasing some threads on my rack and pinion system, and I want to know if the Metal that I’m cleaning out of the threads will travel inwards Away from me, or will they travel Outwards towards me?
Thanks
It’s not the gears that I’m using a tap on, it would be on one of the holes (who’s holes are clogged with aluminum) that feeds ATF to the Rack and pinion.I'm clear on how you will use a tap on either rack or pinion gears, unless it is a very special tool.
Neither do I understand what you hope to accomplish by chasing the threads.
kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
Wow, some things are best left to a professional especially on steering or brake components.
NoneI have a follow-up question, and that is how much debris can be allowed into the ATF before damage is done to the power steering unit?
It’s not the gears that I’m using a tap on, it would be on one of the holes (who’s holes are clogged with aluminum) that feeds ATF to the Rack and pinion.
How is it the holes are clogged with Al?
nbpt100
Well-known member
You can do it. You will take more care in keeping the aluminum debris from falling into the hydraulic system than someone pressured for time to get the job done. As suggested by another member, if possible use gravity to help the debris to fall out of the hole by mounting it upside down. I assume you are soaking the other fittings in penetrating oil to help remove them easier. Is access the problem or fear of breaking them off?Wow, some things are best left to a professional especially on steering or brake components.
iagsxr
Well-known member
We've taped the end of a shop vac hose right by the hole being chased to hopefully **** chips out rather than them falling in. I'd position the rack so both gravity and the shop vac are your friends. Then grease up the chaser and go for it.
No. Just plain no. Do it right by replacing the the rack and pinion. Seriously, what are you and the OP thinking?You will take more care in keeping the aluminum debris from falling into the hydraulic system than someone pressured for time to get the job done.
nbpt100
Well-known member
Well, he never provided alot of info or why he was changing the fittings. His question was about chasing threads. The OP can chime in on this if he likes. Maybe he got his answers and has moved on.No. Just plain no. Do it right by replacing the the rack and pinion. Seriously, what are you and the OP thinking?