topher5150
Active member
I only need to re-taper two holes on some steering parts for my 47 Ford. Do I need a $100 tool, or could I get away with a couple of $5 Harbor Freight tools for this one project?
Cheap 7-degree taper reamer
- Thread starter topher5150
- Start date
RoninB4
Well-known member
More info needed. How much material is going to be removed? What is the material? What does it do?
OP
topher5150
Active member
I don't know the thickness of the part, less than 1", but I only need to taper about halfway.
I'm not removing a whole lot, maybe a couple thou to get the tierod end in. It's for tie rod ends on a pitman arm and an axle spindle.
I can get some more accurate measurements when I get home
I'm not removing a whole lot, maybe a couple thou to get the tierod end in. It's for tie rod ends on a pitman arm and an axle spindle.
I can get some more accurate measurements when I get home
Walkers
Well-known member
You need the taper tool to do it right. You can buy weld in inserts that are tapered, but it is slightly questionable in my mind. Seems like there may be another option or two on the Speedway motors site.
signcrafter
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 9, 2012
- Messages
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Does HF even sell a 7 degree taper reamer? Think for steering parts 100 bucks is pretty cheap for the correct tool to do it right.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-You still haven't really given enough info here. Is the existing hole already tapered but the wrong angle? Is this a component you made? Most reamers are only capable of cutting about .0075 per side, a tapered milling cutter will cut more than that. So if you're re-cutting to make a different taper you really ought to trig the amount of metal removed or you might break off the reamer. What machine are you going to use to drive the reamer/cutter? Have you actually checked the male tapered component?
A taper works quite well when the tapers match. However, if the angle is slightly off it won't work as intended (won't lock) and will experience premature wear. If it were me, I'd want to use a magic marker to check the fitment for full contact. A broken tie rod at speed can have some bad consequences.
Not trying to be a jerk here, just suggesting that if you've never done something like this before you better investigate the variables/unknowns or you may not like the results. As a retired toolmaker I'm saying this may not be a simple job even if it looks like it is.
OP
topher5150
Active member
I think this is getting a little more complicated than I intended.
That's what I'm looking to do is use the taper tool so I can put the tie rod end on the other side.
I found one at HF, and Summit has a set for $16
T-Handle Reamer
Amazing deals on this T-Handle Reamer at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Performance Tool W2967 Performance Tool Tapered Reamer Sets | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Performance Tool Tapered Reamer Sets with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Reamers at Summit Racing.
I know that when I did mine I took it to a local chassis builder and they had the proper tool to cut pitman arm. It was a nominal fee and cheaper than buying the correct tool. Re-tapering requires a cutter, not a reamer. The ones you picture are for cleaning up a boogered hole, not recutting a new taper.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
jstroede
Well-known member
First of all, I don't think either of those are 7 degree.
Secondly, what do you mean put the tie rod end on the other side?
Secondly, what do you mean put the tie rod end on the other side?
alfadan
Well-known member
I'd guess the steering knuckle you're trying to convert to a tapered hole is forged and would be a proverbial MFer to modify with a tapered hand reamer, if its even the right taper.
WILD-BILL
Well-known member
Not to mention that changing Tie rod location could mess up the Ackermann angle.
If you're unfamilar.....
en.wikipedia.org
If you're unfamilar.....
Ackermann steering geometry - Wikipedia
RoninB4
Well-known member
-You asked for advice and were given replies by several other members other than just me. I guess if you can't be bothered to investigate how to make the job come out right then you need to discover how it can go wrong by yourself. I do wish you good luck though.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
All I read from that us acknowledgement. You seem to take it as apathy.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-You may be right that I'm reading it wrong. A lot of people get on internet boards with notions that aren't very well thought out, mostly driven by a budget and lack of experience. Nothing wrong with staying within a budget either. I asked a few simple questions to give the OP some expectations based in the reality of metal working. His reply was that it was getting more "complicated" than he intended. OK....he's not very good at explaining his project. That's ok too. But if he hasn't even checked the tapered reamers he linked to then he's not bothered to find out IF they even match the required angle, let alone the feasibility of carving out chunks of forged metal that are beyond the scope of a hand reamer. The lack of experience shows in this and that's ok too.
Asking questions about things you don't know is part of what the internet is great at. But if you aren't willing to investigate a few simple suggestions/facts it really doesn't matter how much you convince yourself that it will indeed work. The refusal to learn is often just abject laziness and it's all too common on the internet, I see it on several other boards I'm a member of.
If I've misjudged the OP then I've jumped too soon to an estimation. However, if my assumptions are correct then sometimes the results of a self inflicted screw up can teach what the ego refuses to consider. I did wish him/her good luck and I meant that.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yeah, I think you took a big leap there
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Possible, but at this point in time I don't feel I did. Time will tell.
Am I correct in guessing that you are upgrading the steering box on your '47? If so I did this many year ago on my '47. As I said above the local chassis builder had the right cutter and did the job for a nominal price. I took the drag link and the steering arm in and the job was done.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
Walkers
Well-known member
I took the opposite approach and ordered the cutter and did mine on my mill. We both probably have a near identical amount of money and effort involved.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
I never respond to any thread that has the word cheap in the title.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
And yet, here we are...
Walkers
Well-known member
This is a tap that I ground to a 7* taper for something similar. If you are interested in it let me know.
I also own the 7* end mill. If you want to use it you can send me a $100 deposit. If it comes back undamaged you get the deposit back. If it needs to be sharpened or has shank damage it comes out of the deposit.
