Cheap garage ceiling ideas?

[CoogarXR]

When I bought this place ages ago, the original builder started to finish the ceiling with OSB and gave up about 6ft in, lol. It's fully insulated, the problem is, the insulation paper is getting brittle in its old age and is starting to randomly fall out.

This spring I want to put up a ceiling of some sort. I haven't priced anything yet. I know materials are high right now, so I am all ears on ideas, even non-traditional ideas.

It's just a 24x24 with a peaked roof and a flat ceiling (trusses? I believe? I'm no architect, lol). They look to be maybe 20-something-inches on centers.

I have seen a lot of people doing metal. That would certainly be easier than drywall or even OSB. But I have never priced it. So what are some cheap ceiling solutions? I'll be doing this alone more than likely, if that makes a difference.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

You can string wire to hold up the insulation. Will improve the look over sagging insulation (but not much).
About as cheap and easy as it gets.

 

[sick467]

I bought just over 1600 square foot of modern tin to do the ceiling in my shop. I had never done it before. I want to say it was about 70¢ a square foot, but steel is going up and is now around $1 per sq ft. You're looking at about $700 for the tin and some top corner trim to do the basic job (mid Missouri pricing). It's not bad to hang so long as you buy, borrow, rent a drywall jack. It makes a HUGE difference in your efforts. I did the whole job by myself. I have 4 ft centers and it looks great.

OSB is getting close to 80¢ a sq ft right now for 1/2" and plywood is at $1 for 1/2".

What's your budget?

Aside from finding some materials to repurpose for cheap, I'd say steel is the way to go unless that extra $100+ kills the bank account. The cheapest new material option that I can think of would be wall paneling, but I'm not going there...it could sag (it's only 1/8" thick) and would look out of place.

 

[joey1320]

4' x 8' - $10.99
https://www.homedepot.com/p/0-125-i...k-MDF-Spartan-Wall-Paneling-8203475/310464642

4' x 8' - $13.98
https://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATIL...d-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949

4' x 8' - $19.99
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Woodgra...n-Authentic-Pallet-MDF-Panel-169822/308543165

 

[CoogarXR]

Yeah, I have considered some kind of hardboard/paneling. Not the lame 1970s-basement-looking kind, but white hardboard or even glossy shower-board.

 

[pronator]

Maybe radiant barrier? Easy to install so long as you have an air gap between the insulation and the barrier, you’re good to go. Just need a staple gun.

Much cheaper than other options in terms of material costs. Plus, may give you a bit of heat blocking and reflective insulation.

 

[Bert_]

Tin isn't the cheapest but it goes up fast and your done.

 

[jblnut]

I'd pass on the hardboard personally. If it gets moist in there, which garages seem to do, it'll swell up over time and sag and such.

We're building a new house this spring and will be putting your standard run of the mill bright white barn roof steel on the ceiling. We were in a garage over winter that did this and it looked great and will continue to look nice and white for a long time. No water spots or sagging if it gets wet. We have a local supplier in Freeport MN that we'll be getting the material from and I think it's in the $1/lineal foot range if I remember correctly.

Just my $0.02 ......

 

[rburke65]

Metal ceiling ....fast....reflects the light and its finished. One and done

 

[MushCreek]

1/8" and 3/16" panel is meant to be put over an existing solid wall, not studs. It will warp. Putting it on a ceiling is even worse.

As for OSB, I don't know where you're finding it for $.80/sq ft. I haven't seen it that cheap in a year. Lately, it's about $1 sq ft.

For my money, metal makes the most sense. It goes up fast, and it's already painted.

 

[Hunt2871]

I have owned several sizeable garages and shops over the years and the best on I ever owned had a suspended ceiling in it. It is not cheap to do but its cheaper than drywall and when you need to add electrical **** and move dust collection around just lift the tiles in the way, pull wire or hang duct and your done. This shop was not climate controlled and the ceiling was 2X2 tiles. Even in the heat and humidity those tiles were dead flat. It was 10 years old when I owned it. They did attract cob webs and dust but no more than OSB would do. Might be an option....

 

[eystein]

I have a garage where the ceiling is made up of lightweight porous concrete elements, where some of the surface started chipping off and falling down on the car below.

Fastened wooden slats to the ceiling with 6in special lightweight concrete anchors, and covered the ceiling with plasterboard.

 

[Hunt2871]

Metal ceiling ....fast....reflects the light and its finished. One and done

I like the idea of a post frame building with a metal roof and metal ceiling. In my opinion if done right its architecturally sharp and it has to be significantly cheaper to be build than stick building and drywall or sheet goods. How easy is it to access the space above though when you inevitably have to add an outlet for a new piece of equipment or move dust collection duct? It seems like you could just back the screws out, take it down and put it back up when done. Is that realistic? That would of course require something other than blown in insulation which seems to be the preferred insulating material above a metal ceiling. Maybe bats or spray foam on the roof decking?

 

[MushCreek]

I have owned several sizeable garages and shops over the years and the best on I ever owned had a suspended ceiling in it. It is not cheap to do but its cheaper than drywall and when you need to add electrical **** and move dust collection around just lift the tiles in the way, pull wire or hang duct and your done. This shop was not climate controlled and the ceiling was 2X2 tiles. Even in the heat and humidity those tiles were dead flat. It was 10 years old when I owned it. They did attract cob webs and dust but no more than OSB would do. Might be an option....

There are 'zero clearance' suspended ceiling systems out there if you don't want to give up the headroom. That's what I used in our basement, and it works great. You can still remove panels to access overhead. Suspended ceilings are also much quieter than metal.

 

[CoogarXR]

I briefly considered suspended ceiling too, but I heard that there can be an issue with tiles blowing out when you put the door up.

I am still kinda leaning toward metal. I just gotta bite the bullet, lol.

 

[Innovate1]

When comparing cost of metal to other materials the cost of paint, taping drywall seams, etc need to be factored in. Metal doesn't have any of that so I figured metal was the cheapest and quickest way to get a good quality ceiling. The thing that took some extra effort was air sealing around the edges. I used caulking from the top after the metal was installed.

Most places supply custom lengths so it works with your building size and minimizes on site cutting.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

First I thought OSB, but metal as many said far better...and fireproof.

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[nadogail]

A ceiling of aluminum roofing material will accomplish many, if not all, of your goals.

 

[Hunt2871]

I briefly considered suspended ceiling too, but I heard that there can be an issue with tiles blowing out when you put the door up.

I am still kinda leaning toward metal. I just gotta bite the bullet, lol.

I have seen ceiling tiles blow out of convenience stores when the door was opened LOL....but if they are installed properly and the grid is square and true I don't think its an issue. I worked in my shop with 10 foot doors open and a fan running most of the time and they never lifted that I am aware of. I could see how it could happen though.

 

[MushCreek]

The zero clearance type won't blow up; they have nowhere to go. The system uses a plastic track that attaches to the joists, then the tiles are held in place with a second piece of track that snaps in place. You have to remove the bottom track to get a panel out. It works well, I've been in to my basement ceiling a number of times.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Menard's in Ontario stocks white metal everyday up to 16' IIRC. I bought my 14 footers there.

You don't have to buy it all at once, you can buy a few sheets at a time if you have a place to store them. Borrow a drywall lift or rent from Menard's when you're ready to put up.

Don't forget to frame in an attic access cover.


BTW, I'm no professional and mine's not perfect but you can come check my ceiling out if you want.

 

[CoogarXR]

Menard's in Ontario stocks white metal everyday up to 16' IIRC. I bought my 14 footers there.

You don't have to buy it all at once, you can buy a few sheets at a time if you have a place to store them. Borrow a drywall lift or rent from Menard's when you're ready to put up.

Don't forget to frame in an attic access cover.


BTW, I'm no professional and mine's not perfect but you can come check my ceiling out if you want.

Thanks for the offer. Did you use any furring strips or anything? Or did you screw it right to the bottom of the trusses? I am thinking about adding furring strips so I can leave the partial OSB ceiling that's already there (plus all the random scraps of junk that's been screwed up there to hold falling insulation over the years).

Luckily I already have an attic hole framed. I think the previous owner was well on his way to making it a decent shop. He worked at PPG, and the interior is finished in OSB from PPG glass crates. I also had another entire building that he had built from PPG crates too, but it was in bad shape and I had to tear it down a few years back.

I'm getting more motivated too since my florescent lights are starting to fail. I was going to replace them all with LED fixtures. I figure if I have to take all my lights down, I might as well finally do the ceiling, lol.

 

[firebirdparts]

I would do metal also if I was going to do it.

 

[Lynden]

Here are some options.

https://www.garagetooladvisor.com/design/garage-ceiling-ideas/

 

[NUTTSGT]

Thanks for the offer. Did you use any furring strips or anything? Or did you screw it right to the bottom of the trusses? I am thinking about adding furring strips so I can leave the partial OSB ceiling that's already there (plus all the random scraps of junk that's been screwed up there to hold falling insulation over the years).

Luckily I already have an attic hole framed. I think the previous owner was well on his way to making it a decent shop. He worked at PPG, and the interior is finished in OSB from PPG glass crates. I also had another entire building that he had built from PPG crates too, but it was in bad shape and I had to tear it down a few years back.

I'm getting more motivated too since my florescent lights are starting to fail. I was going to replace them all with LED fixtures. I figure if I have to take all my lights down, I might as well finally do the ceiling, lol.

The house garage, the metal went right to the bottom of the trusses.

My garage, the addition, I put up 3/4" polyiso foil faced foam board directly on the bottom of the trusses. I wasn't expecting to do the metal as soon. Once I got Menard's rebates, it was game on and I bought what I needed for the ceiling. The metal is screwed flat on the foil board and through it into the trusses.


If you have a bunch of junk up there, now is the time to clean it out and get the unneeded weight off the trusses. Wood stuff, burn it. Metal, scrap it.

 

[bbxlr8]

I would do metal also if I was going to do it.

I had not seen this before and interestingly, I was in a friend of a friend's "show" retirement garage this weekend with this ceiling. He used white metal in 20' sections for fewer seams and blow-in over top. Looked GREAT!

I was very impressed & he was patient enough to run through the build details with me: stick-built 2x6 but trussed for open span; radiant pex in concrete, propane-fired (never ran once during frigid windy 20'F day and we were in there 6 hours) Total dim. was 48'x 68' x12' inside. The only thing he and his son didn't do was the 10" block bottom and also brought in a crew to set the trusses.

DAMN fine job and a very understated classy individual. I gathered that not many people actually get in there...

Trying pic link:
https://imgur.com/EjhMDs1

 

[Jazz1]

Is there aversion to drywall? It’s cheap, fire retardant and the bride can install herself with the dry lift you rented

 

[Kaizen]

Is there aversion to drywall? It’s cheap, fire retardant and the bride can install herself with the dry lift you rented

When all done the cost is not a significant savings. I can’t imagine sanding 1000 sq feet of it.


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[CoogarXR]

Having just redone 3 rooms in my house with drywall, I'm kinda over it, lol. I just want something I can screw up. Wait, that doesn't sound right...

 

[MushCreek]

Drywall is a lot of work. Although you can use a hoist, you still have to wrestle the sheets on to the hoist. Then, you have to tape and mud overhead, not a fun position to work. Ditto the sanding. Then, you still have to paint it. Metal is lightweight, and already painted. Screw it up, and walk away.

 

[joey1320]

Have you considered the polycarbonate, pvc or lexan panels?

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...20-c-5819.htm?tid=-7796307891524464705&ipos=7

 

[MushCreek]

Less than $.75 per sq/ft. Not bad. I wonder how close the framing needs to be, or how it would hold up to the weight of blown-in insulation?

 

[rusty1]

...temporary fix would be staple refridgerator cartons (cardboard) up under the rafters...

 

[pofc]

I hated mudding drywall also so i did this over joints and just diid the screws which require very little sanding,in fact i think a used a sponge.

the joints are covered over in cheap Luan plywood cut into strips and painted before install. Used wood moulding at corners.