Cheap Intro Router

[BetterDays]

One of the many tools that I am missing is a router. I am looking at this combo. I understand that this is on the cheap end (or, as I call it, introductory expense or the first 'hit'] which is perfect. If I only use it sparingly, I am not out much money. Plus, it has the table included.

For a beginning router and beginning woodworker (honestly, I can't even call myself that yet), would this be sufficient for simply rounding edges?

Thanks,

 

[Cebby]

I have a Ryobi laminate trimmer that works just fine. A lot of their tools are questionable quality, but to start out with, you should be OK. I didn't see a HP rating on the router - I wouldn't go less than a 1 1/2 HP unit.

Let the machine do the work - don't try to feed too fast, that's how you ruin your work piece and burn bits. Buy good router bits with the money you saved if you get this one.

 

[BetterDays]

How difficult is it to build a router table?

Perhaps invest a little more into the router and build a table (great first project with a new router, right?)

 

[elect]

How difficult is it to build a router table?

Perhaps invest a little more into the router and build a table (great first project with a new router, right?)

x2 I agree build your table and get a porter cable mid range router.

 

[BetterDays]

x2 I agree build your table and get a porter cable mid range router.

How difficult is it to build a table though?

 

[Stephenw]

I purchased this Craftsman kit...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917543000P

It has a fixed and plunge base. Very nice, and the price is right. Read the reviews on Sears' website.

 

[elect]

not difficult,it's a good first project,plans online,you end up with a much better router table.

 

[a390st]

If you're going to get a router, you would do well to buy a Hitachi, Freud, or even Porter Cable. Also, if you are going to be doing much with it, go with a 11-13 amp unit, rather than a smaller one. The rate is so slow if you get anything small and use a fancy bits. I bought a Freud 2 1/4 hp unit for under $100 at Lowe's on a closeout. It's a very good router. I have used Hitachi routers most often, as the real Hitachi routers like the M12V are exceptional for general use. Those are some big routers, and you can get them for the same price as the mid-grade jobbers you get at Lowe's and HD.

Keep an eye on Craigslist and yard sales for good router tables for next to nothing.

 

[Coach James]

I purchased this Craftsman kit...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917543000P

It has a fixed and plunge base. Very nice, and the price is right. Read the reviews on Sears' website.

I've got that same set and it works great. A friend of mine that manages a Sears said that model is a rebadged Porter Cable.

Coach

 

[Jiffycake]

I purchased this Craftsman kit...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917543000P

It has a fixed and plunge base. Very nice, and the price is right. Read the reviews on Sears' website.

I have the same router but the 9.5 amp model. It is the same if not better quality than a porter cable that I have used. The soft start feature is great. Definitely consider the craftsman model.

 

[nissan_crawler]

If you are only going to get one router, it should be a plunge router.

Personally, I have a 3 HP Bosch plunge and a smaller fixed D-Handle Porter Cable. Both are quality units.

Best to make the router table yourself...

Agreed. You can lock out a plunge router. A fixed router is...well, fixed. I also agree on building your own table.

 

[eschoendorff]

I have a Ryobi laminate trimmer that works just fine. A lot of their tools are questionable quality, but to start out with, you should be OK. I didn't see a HP rating on the router - I wouldn't go less than a 1 1/2 HP unit.

Let the machine do the work - don't try to feed too fast, that's how you ruin your work piece and burn bits. Buy good router bits with the money you saved if you get this one.

Excellent advice!

 

[Benchloader]

When you get around to selecting router bits go with the carbide type. You may save a bunch of money buying sets.

Carbide stay sharp longer than steel, which means a cleaner cut without tear out or chipping.

I use my under table mounted router way more than using it freehand. A good steady table with a straight guide fence is ideal.

 

[dxdexter]

One of the many tools that I am missing is a router. I am looking at this combo. I understand that this is on the cheap end (or, as I call it, introductory expense or the first 'hit'] which is perfect. If I only use it sparingly, I am not out much money. Plus, it has the table included.

For a beginning router and beginning woodworker (honestly, I can't even call myself that yet), would this be sufficient for simply rounding edges?

Thanks,

Yes this router and table would be fine for occasional use. In 2001 I bought a similar Ryobi router (1.5 hp), but used it almost daily in my one man kitchen cabinet shop and it lasted for less than 1year. I did admittedly use it for some heavy cuts. I replaced it with a 2.5 hp Porter Cable plunge router and never looked back.

Ryobi tools are in my opinion a strictly for homeowner/ occasional use. If that is your intent then you should be fine. The table should be anchored to a sturdy base to prevent moving. Note that if you use this type of setup on a regular basis you will soon see the limitations of such light power tools and tables.

 

[Stuey]

I'd suggest starting with a store-bought router table. You can find them for anywhere between $50 and $100. Coupled with a low-mid end router, you're looking at a $120-$200 initial investment.

Or you could start off with a very decent Bosch router and add on Ryobi's more advanced router table ($99) or any other table in that price range. That would be a $320 or so investment total, not including bits.

Really low end starter set: $100-$120.
Low to mid end starter set: $120-$200.
High end router combo with a mid-range router table: $280-$320.

For bits, don't forget that 1/2" shank vibrate less and are recommended over 1/4" shanked bits. Make sure the router you choose has a collet that accepts 1/2" bits.

Amazon.com has great prices on Bosch and Freud bits. I'd say buy one or two bits to start off with, and then keep an eye out for discounts on Freud bits and bit sets.

If you want to build your own router table, that's fine, but there are a few things that can cause the cost to add up quick. You can keep an eye on Rockler, Woodcraft, and MLCS Woodworking for sales on components. MLCS offers free shipping on all of their products, which can be great if all you're looking for is one or two bits here and there.

Okay, so to build your own table, you need:

A power shut-off panel. Your router plugs into this, and then you can easily shut down power immediately by bumping into the switch. This is important in case something goes wrong and you need to cut power ASAP.

Router plate. You can build this yourself out of aluminum, phenolic, or any other suitable low-friction material.

Bit guard. You'll want a guard that goes over the bit in the table so that chips don't fly everywhere.

 

[Coach James]

I have this router table.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00926608000P?vName=Tools

Mine is 4 years old and still works very well. My buddy has one that is still working good after 6 years and two house renovations.

My first set of bits were Skil. They weren't bad, but didn't cut as well as I wanted. I've had good results with Bosch and Freud bits. Also, the WoodRiver line of bits from Woodcraft has given me good results at a good price.


Coach

 

[rsanter]

what do you need a router for?
if you get the router and the table are you going to be removing the router much for use by itself? I think its a pain. I had a router on the table and the a couple more for use by themselves.

do you have a tablesaw? if you do you can mount it to an extension on the tablesaw

be carefull of how much money you spend on a router and table. I stepped up to a delta tabletop shaper and I think it is far better than any router/table combo. if you get a high quality router and table then you will be in the price range of a used floor model shaper or a new tabletop shaper

bob

 

[SteveU]

Bosch 1617 router has a fine adjust which is real useful in a table. Depending on your budget look at the large router table by woodpecker topped off with an Incra twin linear fence. It is adjustable to .001" and can be used for making all kind of small craft boxes & decorative joints. Next time you are in a bookstore look at some of the router books & it will show some of the things possible with this combination. Listen to the advice on the carbide router bits, they last a lot longer & don't really cost a lot more. I have had good luck with Whiteside bits.

 

[kf4zht]

Unless you want a fancy incra table or something with extremely high dollar I would just build it yourself. Since you are a beginner woodworker it is a good project that will give you practice.

I have a hitachi router I got off craigslist cheap. It is very solid for how much I use it. Keep in mind that if you actually want to use it alot you will spend more on bits than you did on the router in a very short time.

 

[SteveU]

Another thing to think about is the type of work you are looking at getting into in the future. Dovetail jigs are best used with fixed base routers because it will ruin your day & jig if you hit the plunge release while using a dovetail bit with one. Sign making almost necessitates a plunge router. There are several routers today that come with interchangeable bases to go from fixed to plunge which would be the cheapest way to get started. Stay away from the routers which have collets as part of the shaft, instead get something which has replaceable collets. For hand held use look at something in the 10-12 amp range which will usually claim somewhere around 2 hp, for strictly table use something in the 15 amp 3 hp range will turn larger bits like horizontal panel raising bits. Routers are addictive to use but require safety precautions such as hearing protection & keep your fingers away from the bit, if a bit spinning at 20,000 rpm gets a hold of a finger there isn't anything left to sew back on. There is a lot of information on Pat Warner's AKA The Routerman site about this. Good luck & happy routering.

 

[BetterDays]

Back to the top... I have narrowed down to two routers from Sears.

Please advise pro's and con's....

Item Numbers 00917543000 (mentioned above, two bases) and 00917517000 (digital plunge). Both 2hp, one is 11A, one is 10A; I am sure there are other differences...

Comparison side by side?

A quick response is appreciated, as I plan to purchase one tomorrow....

Thank you!

 

[a390st]

As someone who has spent some time around routers, I really wish you would give Hitachi, Freud, or even Bosch a chance. They are all much more reputable routers than the Craftsman models you are looking at. They are maybe $30-50 more, are more powerful, and have a proven track record. Craftsman power tools aren't necessarily bad, but they are definitely hit and miss. Those Craftsman routers may serve you perfectly, but I would be much more confident with a 2 1/4 hp router from the brands I mentioned.

 

[BetterDays]

These are both on sale right now, so the price listed on sears.com is not accurate. The digital router is around $120 and the other is $90 (originally $120).

This is a beginning router for me. I know the bits make the difference (and identifying what bits are good for someone with no clue about them will be a different thread). The other routers I looked at were in the $200 range, which is high for me currently (since I still need a table)

 

[Stuey]

Given those two choices, I would suggest the two-base product since it is a bit cheaper, yet offers slightly more flexibility to help you get your feet wet.

As I mentioned before, I would recommend a Bosch kit (goes for $199 right now via Amazon), but if you have to go cheap initially, you may as well get the Cman kit which includes both a plunge and a fixed base. Plus, since it's relatively cheap, when you upgrade, you won't feel too bad kicking the cheap kit to the "spares" pile.

Also, since you're first getting into woodworking, don't forget to request catalogs from: Rockler, MLCS Woodworking, and Woodcraft. For your convenience, these links navigate straight to the catalog request pages.

 

[Cebby]

The way my router collection expanded is the way I think many woodworkers grow their tool collection.

I started with a Craftsman fixed base router - then later bought a Craftsman router table. You'll quickly find that removing the router from the table to use it by hand gets old quick. This prompted me to buy the Porter Cable kit that includes a fixed and plunge base with their 1 1/2hp router (I think these are now only available in 2 1/4hp). This worked quite well for a while, but as it goes, tackling larger and larger projects necessitated better/bigger tools. I now also have a 3hp Porter Cable Production Model Plunge Router and a 3 hp Porter Cable Shaper.

I sold off the Craftsman stuff quite a while ago, so I don't have an actual router table anymore. I miss the ease of use of a small router table, so I'll be adding another router to the stable, sinking a plate into my side table on my table saw so I can use the fence on there. This one really doesn't need to be anything special, just easy to raise and lower. This might be something to consider if you have a table saw with a wide fence.

 

[a390st]

Well, I'm just saying that I got a brand new Freud 2 1/4 hp with 1/2" and 1/4" interchangeable collets and both fixed and plunge bases at Lowe's on sale for $99. It has a five year warranty.