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Cheap linkable lighting for shipping container

George Hill

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Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
33
I've got a 40' shipping container that I am going to use for storage (and get the mess out of my shop). The plan is to paint the interior white and then get some lights up so it doesn't turn into a cave.

I'm trying not to turn this into a multi thousand dollar project outfitting the interior so what experience do y'all have with the cheap linkable LED lights? I was thinking about either of these and maybe still have some leftovers for spares. Layout is pallet racking down one side 30-36" deep, so I'd run the lights starting 4' inside the door with a 4' space until the end where the last one would be turned sideways to illuminate the back wall shelving.


 
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PCustoms

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Jul 23, 2011
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22,575
Location
VT
I've had good luck with 2 different Hyperikon lights from Amazon.

1st set is going on 5 years, second set is going on 3.

Only issue I have is they change designs everytime I got to buy more.
 
OP
G

George Hill

Active member
Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
33
All of the cheap linkable lights are about the same and probably come from the same place. Total cost is the only factor to consider when buying.
I assumed so, but I also hate to assume.

I've had good luck with 2 different Hyperikon lights from Amazon.

1st set is going on 5 years, second set is going on 3.

Only issue I have is they change designs everytime I got to buy more.
Great, thanks for the feedback on those, I'll check them out.
 

yatg

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Aug 16, 2019
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Location
Southern Oregon
Layout is pallet racking down one side 30-36" deep,
location of the lights is going to be a big factor. you're going to want to mount them so you can see what's on the floor/bottom shelves. running them down the center is probably not the best solution with 36" shelves, and you shouldn't screw them to the steel roof anyway unless you want leaks.

don't leave gaps between the lights, just string them end to end to avoid inconsistent lighting and shadows. those single tube-like fixtures don't put out as much light as you'd think, especially at the back end of a tunnel.

light color choice is something you need to take into account.
5000k is white, above that is bluish. everybody has their own preference.

 

no704

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Apr 27, 2016
Messages
5,211
Get a hand full of battery op tap lites as seen on 📺 and back them with magnetic strips.
 

inphx

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Feb 23, 2012
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1,275
Location
Phoenix/Scottsdale AZ
I have the same style lights on my purlins in a steel building. Across 80' the heat expand/contract plays with the **** connector chinesium and i am often using a pvc pipe to tap them back into connectivity. Brightness and price point is great otherwise. You may not have an issue in a more rigid container but if you can feed power from both ends that may reduce risk from a serial source at one end. Whenever i get a ladder up there i do an extra crush on the connector to try get a durable connection.
 

racecougar

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Jan 26, 2021
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5,025
Location
Missouri
I've been very happy with the Barrina fixtures in your first link, OP. I have 64 of them in three different buildings, with the oldest set (of 48 units) at nearly four years now. I have yet to have a single failure/issue.

I do not recommend the "V" shaped Barrina's with the clear lens. That design has received a number of reported failures. Stick with the ones you linked to above. Additionally, you may find them for less on Amazon or elsewhere.

252543499_10100720292401263_8545997886411820626_n.jpg
 
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OP
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George Hill

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Sep 3, 2008
Messages
33
location of the lights is going to be a big factor. you're going to want to mount them so you can see what's on the floor/bottom shelves. running them down the center is probably not the best solution with 36" shelves, and you shouldn't screw them to the steel roof anyway unless you want leaks.

don't leave gaps between the lights, just string them end to end to avoid inconsistent lighting and shadows. those single tube-like fixtures don't put out as much light as you'd think, especially at the back end of a tunnel.

light color choice is something you need to take into account.
5000k is white, above that is bluish. everybody has their own preference.

Good point, I don't think I have a good solution to that issue, but I'll just supplement with a flash light. Floor level will be engines and first shelf will be transmissions so may not be such a big deal.

I have the same style lights on my purlins in a steel building. Across 80' the heat expand/contract plays with the **** connector chinesium and i am often using a pvc pipe to tap them back into connectivity. Brightness and price point is great otherwise. You may not have an issue in a more rigid container but if you can feed power from both ends that may reduce risk from a serial source at one end. Whenever i get a ladder up there i do an extra crush on the connector to try get a durable connection.
Good info, I'll keep that in mind. I'll attach them end to end at first and if that becomes a problem will separate them and add a small length of wire to all expansion.

I've been very happy with the Barrina fixtures in your first link, OP. I have 64 of them in three different buildings, with the oldest set (of 48 units) at nearly four years now. I have yet to have a single failure/issue.

I do not recommend the "V" shaped Barrina's with the clear lens. That design has received a number of reported failures. Stick with the ones you linked to above. Additionally, you may find them for less on Amazon or elsewhere.

252543499_10100720292401263_8545997886411820626_n.jpg
Thanks for the review... we try to stay away from Amazon, so I'll do some digging for other options.

Install with magnets
You read my mind, seems like a no brainer in this situation.
 

GarageDog

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Feb 9, 2010
Messages
225
Location
Laguna Niguel, CA
I plan to install a Barinna 4' 8 pack w/frosted lens in my 3 car garage (Approx 20' x 30' x 9')
4000K vs 5000K? looking for a medium, light color quality - not too blue or warm.
Use: Wood working and classic cars. Also, are these dimmable? Can't seem to find on site.
Thanks!
 

Blueshound_GJ

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Joined
Feb 21, 2022
Messages
421
As long as you use plenty of magnets.
I did once see a whole string cascade down to the floor when someone hooked one fitting and the magnets on the adjacent fitting were not strong enough...
Yikes, like dominos? Rare earth magnets are incredibly cheap and strong. I guess you would want to keep the carried weight to, what, 10% of load capacity? Assuming flat, smooth surfaces on both sides.
 

Bretny

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Jul 31, 2017
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Location
Dutchess county NY
I have had 12+ of the first ones you liked in my garage for about 4yrs. They work well and I have no failed lights or even single LEDs. If I remember right I have 4 linked together.
 

dutchgray

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Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
6,465
Location
Dorset. England.
Yikes, like dominos? Rare earth magnets are incredibly cheap and strong. I guess you would want to keep the carried weight to, what, 10% of load capacity? Assuming flat, smooth surfaces on both sides.
Yep
Its the shock load when one fixture has to catch the falling one, much more load than the weight itself and once you have pulled the magnet a fraction from the steel its all over.
Those were about 3' of cable between each fitting and it was the end fitting they caught, just about the worse scenario you could have.
 

Griff79

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Joined
Jun 9, 2018
Messages
583
Location
Denver
Thank you, I have been looking for some inexpensive led, linkable lights for my furnace/inside shop. I purchased a 12 pack directly from Barrina for $84.99 with free shipping.
Griff
 
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