bczygan
Well-known member
Grab a hood...........any hood.
And WELD, WELD, WELD!!!
Bill
And WELD, WELD, WELD!!!
Bill
Cheap weld setup?
- Thread starter nichocha33
- Start date
Jagmandave
Well-known member
I think duty cycle is only a issue if you are trying to weld heavy stuff, and/or long beads.
Most guys don't need to do that, most are welding sheet metal - as in patches for a car or other similar repairs.... for that you're doing mostly plug welds, and you're stopping frequently to make adjustments, move clamps and the like.
However, I think a good lower end version of a name brand like Hobart, Lincoln or Miller is better than buying the cheapest buzz box out there.
And I highly recommend gas vs flux core.....
Most guys don't need to do that, most are welding sheet metal - as in patches for a car or other similar repairs.... for that you're doing mostly plug welds, and you're stopping frequently to make adjustments, move clamps and the like.
However, I think a good lower end version of a name brand like Hobart, Lincoln or Miller is better than buying the cheapest buzz box out there.
And I highly recommend gas vs flux core.....
Anytime the duty cycle thermal switch switched off my cheap welder I just put a box fan behind it, pushing air in the same direction as the welder internal fan.
Having that fan in the same electrical circuit as the welder didn't help though.
I was watching Utube vids on welder hacks and saw 1 guy adding a shroud around the internal fan of a cheap welder so I gave it shot.
I made the shroud out of a Folgers plastic coffee "can" with the bottom cut out and zip tied it to the welder back panel.
I guesstimate that increased air flow 3x and I have not experienced any duty cycle glitches since.
Edit: I also converted that AC flux core welder to DC negative electrode with $30 worth of electronics.
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ZRX61
Well-known member
I'd look for a used 187/190.
katit
Well-known member
I thought about it but other way around. So, duty cycle kicks in based on internal temp?
I wanted to quiet down my welder as I don't want as much "duty cycle". Since I never hit that limit I'd rather have quiet fan in my Lincoln 180 and smaller duty cycle.
The 187 needs a costly contactor if you wish to use a spool gun for aluminum.
The 190 is “spool gun ready”.
ALL welding-MiG, tig, gas, stick, thermite, explosive, friction, etc is ALL about heat control. And, it can all be found in the most rudimentary of sources. If that’s what you have, use it, learn it, know it. Start small, light and clean and just do it. Start a molten puddle and move the puddle. Go slowly and maintain a close, smooth arc. Enjoy it. Relax into it. Later, you’ll use the skills for more sophisticated units. But it all starts on the small scale. Wasn’t there a time when every single one of us couldn’t operate a spoon? Don’t listen to the naysayers, use what you’ve got.
The lighter machine usually need very clean metal and their welds are very susceptible to a bad ground clamp connection. But, have at it and go.
The lighter machine usually need very clean metal and their welds are very susceptible to a bad ground clamp connection. But, have at it and go.
metaleltr
Well-known member
If i was in the market these look pretty good.Blue Demon MIG
Caboverbob
Well-known member
I didn't take time to read all comments, but please don't cheap out on auto darkening hood. I've had >50 different welders work under me over the years, and the one tool item that I always check and don't allow is a HF (or similar) auto hood. One malfunction is all it takes. Irreparable damage.
My $.02
My $.02
MJK
Well-known member
My vote for $500 budget is:
$80 new decent helmet from Cyberweld - I have the cheapest Lincoln 4C and it is miles better than the HF **** I started with. You need to see.
$10 cheap HF gloves.
Remainder - 120V welder that is gas capable. I'd try and buy a used Hobart 140, Miller 135 or similar off craiglist. If you are shopping new, the HF and Eastwood ones can be had in that range. Tractor Supply also has good Hobart deals seasonally, and you can also buy factory refurbs at a pretty attractive price from time to time.
$80 new decent helmet from Cyberweld - I have the cheapest Lincoln 4C and it is miles better than the HF **** I started with. You need to see.
$10 cheap HF gloves.
Remainder - 120V welder that is gas capable. I'd try and buy a used Hobart 140, Miller 135 or similar off craiglist. If you are shopping new, the HF and Eastwood ones can be had in that range. Tractor Supply also has good Hobart deals seasonally, and you can also buy factory refurbs at a pretty attractive price from time to time.
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earthmover1980
Well-known member
Start with a D.C. Stick welding machine. Get proficient with stick then go to mig. Skimp on welder, skimp on arc quality and ease of operation, as well as versatility. Invest in a quality machine, preferably industrial rated used one. Dont cheap out!!!
I agree. Also depends on what you think you might be welding....
Generally, I also am in the camp that you’d be better off with a low end name brand machine to minimize quality issues. Not saying a cheapie won't work, but it’s a risk.
My first mig was a flux core Lincoln Weldpak 100 (I think, maybe 125?). Later on, I bought the kit to convert to gas. I like it much better. Years later I upgraded to a Miller 180 with a spool gun for aluminum. No regrets from the way I did it.
IMHO, I’m not going to buy an off brand when I can get a low end name brand for not much more.
Right now the HF Titanium 140 Mig is $400
https://www.harborfreight.com/weldi...ssional-welder-with-120-volt-input-64804.html
But the Hobart 140 is $550.
https://store.cyberweld.com/hobhan135wit1.html
Like others mentioned, another option is buy used. Take a buddy with you that can weld and ensure it works.
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