"Cheaper" Torque Wrench

[XJ1100]

I am curious as to what you guys think of these "cheap" clicker torque wrenches on the market...they all seem to be made by the same company in Taiwan.

I know most of you would not trust these wrenches for anything critical...I am mostly just a shade tree mechanic and do not want to spend too much on torque wrenches. I am looking to get two: one in the 10-150 ft.lb. range and a 20-200 in.lb. range.

How accurate are these wrenches...? What other options are available for a DIY?

Here are examples of the ones I am talking about:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I7ZDMU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MICROMETER-...ryZ42265QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[jay50]

I am curious as to what you guys think of these "cheap" clicker torque wrenches on the market...they all seem to be made by the same company in Taiwan.

I know most of you would not trust these wrenches for anything critical...I am mostly just a shade tree mechanic and do not want to spend too much on torque wrenches. I am looking to get two: one in the 10-150 ft.lb. range and a 20-200 in.lb. range.

How accurate are these wrenches...? What other options are available for a DIY?

Here are examples of the ones I am talking about:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I7ZDMU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MICROMETER-...ryZ42265QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Those cheap ones will bite you in the ****; ...

 

[Chris Adams]

I have about 5 torque wrenches in the drawer right now.
Prices ranged from 12 bucks (HF on sale) to 185 bucks
Least accurate is the most expensive one.
It changes 4-8 percent up and down seemingly at random.
Most accurate is a Generic I bought for 45 bucks twelve years ago.
None are perfect, all work.
The expensive one I don’t trust, but frankly, it’s more accurate than most users of torque wrenches.

Always release the control when you are done (turn them back to zero).
Never drop one.
Never use it to loosen a bolt.
Keep it in a drawer protected from the elements.
Get three if you want to calibrate them yourself.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The airline I work for, used to, a number of years ago, allow us to have our own calibrated tools (torque wrenches, micrometers, calipers, etc) and the company would calibrate them (engrave them with ID numbers, check them and put calibration stickers on them, every 6 mo or whatever was required). In a cost cutting move, the "company" (that translates to widget heads), determined it was cheaper to not allow us to have any personally owned calibrated tools, so we had to take them home.

Anyhow, alot of the mechanics had Taiwan made, China made, whatever, torque wrenches and calipers. Odd thing is, that they all checked within the tolerances the company had established, 3% I think. Never heard of one not checking OK.

Charles

 

[Theo]

I used a cheap ($20) Torque Wrench at the race track to run down the lug nuts on my track car. I never lost a wheel, and didn't really worry about someone stealing it.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I have 2-3 of varying pedigree and as long as you treat them right from day one most any seem to do what you need within reason.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Those cheap ones will bite you in the ****; ...

I'll argue that.

The airline I work for, used to, a number of years ago, allow us to have our own calibrated tools (torque wrenches, micrometers, calipers, etc) and the company would calibrate them (engrave them with ID numbers, check them and put calibration stickers on them, every 6 mo or whatever was required). In a cost cutting move, the "company" (that translates to widget heads), determined it was cheaper to not allow us to have any personally owned calibrated tools, so we had to take them home.

Anyhow, alot of the mechanics had Taiwan made, China made, whatever, torque wrenches and calipers. Odd thing is, that they all checked within the tolerances the company had established, 3% I think. Never heard of one not checking OK.

Charles

My experience is similar. There are 500 mechanics at work, and probably 100 HF torque wrenches. I have not heard of ONE of them not passing cal. However, I have heard of several people (including me) with Snap-On ones that didn't pass. I took my $9 Cummins tool truck 1/2" torque wrench to work to get it calibrated for s's and g's one day. It passed. So, I say buy HF ones. I'll be damned if I spend money on another Snap-On one.

 

[NOMAD]

Tips on calibrating?

 

[Chris Adams]

Poor man's calibration.
Test three bolts, one after the other with three torque wrenches. Notice that one clicks lower than the others, one clicks higher than others.

If all click at same point they are all pretty good.

Example put a bolt down to 80 ft-lb. Then check it with other two wrenches. Do this a few times and you can find which one is highest to lowest.
Tape a number to each wrench before you start, of course.
Log each reading.
This takes about five minutes to do.

If one wrench is way out of line, say 5% different from the other two, it is probably wrong.

Doesn't mean you can't use it, just note the difference.
Now say you get 75, 76, 82 as your three readings.
Without bothering with math, you have a VERY high probability that the actual torque is about 76 lbs.
So you write on the white piece of tape wrench three is approximately 6 lbs high at 76.
Test at several different levels and you get a very consistent error on most wrenches.
So assume 4% error, you just adjust the wrench 4% off.

You lock the wrench that is the most average away. Then you can use it to check the other wrenches as they get wear.
And you can always do the three wrench test again.

This is not perfect by any means, but errors from grease, dirt, bad days, socket flex, etc. will be more of a factor.

You don’t have to own the three wrenches. You borrow a friend’s and buy two. The most average of your two gets put away as a benchmark tool, you use the other one.


Torque wrenches are for consistency more than absolute torque.

Head bolts, wheel lugs, etc. that are 5-10 percent off are not a big problem.
head bolts and wheel nuts put down 20 percent tight next to 20 percent loose are a problems. Causes warping.
Guys who 'don't need a torque wrench' usually are off about 25% in a spread of 6 bolts.
Your arms get tired.
The wrench does not.
If you do a couple dozen bolts, say 4 wheels on a pickup, you can expect 30-35% spread without a torque wrench.
As guys arms get tired, they pull extra hard to make up for it... I've found wheel nuts on the last wheel are usually tighter than the first.

Nuts on wheels and head bolts are more often over torque than under torque.

 

[nissan_crawler]

or....you just weld a socket into a bar, and hang a known weight at x amount of feet out and do it that way. Then you know it's right, not just a good chance.

 

[Chris Adams]

or....you just weld a socket into a bar, and hang a known weight at x amount of feet out and do it that way. Then you know it's right, not just a good chance.

While I'm sure that would work, I'm a little vague on how to fabricate this.
I visualize a huge mount to hold the wrench perfectly steady, a long arm holding a weight at the given distance.
Got a sketch or something that would illuminate this?

If you have the room for something like that it might be a pretty good idea.
You would need a couple three weights, say 60-90-120 lbs.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Here's one way: http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/scrp_0803_calibrating_a_torque_wrench/accuracy_test_results.html

I did it in a cruder fashion, but it wasn't anything I was keeping around. You can also put the drive in a vise, and do it with weight on the handle, BUT you will need much more weight than if you have a long bar to hang the weight on. You can also weld a nut onto it,a nd put a socket on that if you don't want to weld a socket on.

 

[Danglerb]

I've got two HF, $12 and $15, and a digital thing with an external meter from Sears ($35) if I get the urge to check them.

 

[johnny1290]

I've used a HF 1/2" ratchet style...I hate that SOB! Over torqued bolts with it, stripped threads...but then I didn't reset it to zero after each use, so I may very well be the problem. live and learn! I just bought a craftsman beam type and called it a day

 

[nissan_crawler]

I've used a HF 1/2" ratchet style...I hate that SOB! Over torqued bolts with it, stripped threads...but then I didn't reset it to zero after each use, so I may very well be the problem. live and learn! I just bought a craftsman beam type and called it a day

I don't care how off a torque wrench is, I know something's not right way before threads are stripped...

 

[Merkava_4]

I've said it before ... when buying torque wrenches, micrometers, dial calipers or even tape measures, you don't want to skimp on quality; especially on inch pound torque wrenches.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I've said it before ... when buying torque wrenches, micrometers, dial calipers or even tape measures, you don't want to skimp on quality; especially on inch pound torque wrenches.

Ironic, since my "quality" inch pound torque wrench, had to be recalibrated and still is less accurate than my "skimped on, low quality" torque wrench that has never needed calibration. I'll tell you right now, there are less Snap-On's than HF's, and the Snap-On's at work need calibrated more often.

 

[Merkava_4]

I'm surprised they would let you use a HF torque wrench in an aircraft maintenance facility; but then again, they want you to engrave all of YOUR tools anyway; so the hell with them.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I'm surprised they would let you use a HF torque wrench in an aircraft maintenance facility; but then again, they want you to engrave all of YOUR tools anyway; so the hell with them.

Why not? They're more accurate than the Snap-On ones. Oh, and we don't have to engrave our tools, it's actually discouraged where I work.

 

[Merkava_4]

Oh, and we don't have to engrave our tools, it's actually discouraged where I work.

That's good! I guess I was confusing you with another board member in the aviation industry.

Aren't you only required to send your torque wrench in for calibration once a year anyway? I can't see any torque wrench needing to be re-caled more often than that.

 

[nissan_crawler]

That's good! I guess I was confusing you with another board member in the aviation industry.

Aren't you only required to send your torque wrench in for calibration once a year anyway? I can't see any torque wrench needing to be re-caled more often than that.

Every 6 months. Torque wrenches, torque screwdrivers, calipers, micrometers, multimeters, you name it.

 

[Merkava_4]

Every 6 months. Torque wrenches, torque screwdrivers, calipers, micrometers, multimeters, you name it.

Did the FAA change it? Seems like it used to be an annual requirement.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Did the FAA change it? Seems like it used to be an annual requirement.

Don't think so. It used to be every year when I started 6 years ago. The company switched it to every 6 months. It doesn't bug me...they're responsible for the calibration, and fixing them if they aren't calibrated. I just hand in my precision tools every 6 months, and they come back with a little sticker on them. Well, except the Snap-On, they've had to ship it off twice for repair. They hosed up my Craftsman one, it's off to repair, I get a new one if their booboo can't be fixed.

 

[Merkava_4]

It used to be every year when I started 6 years ago.

That's what I thought.

 

[eschoendorff]

I'll argue that.



My experience is similar. There are 500 mechanics at work, and probably 100 HF torque wrenches. I have not heard of ONE of them not passing cal. However, I have heard of several people (including me) with Snap-On ones that didn't pass. I took my $9 Cummins tool truck 1/2" torque wrench to work to get it calibrated for s's and g's one day. It passed. So, I say buy HF ones. I'll be damned if I spend money on another Snap-On one.

I have similar experiences. My HF TQ wrenches check out when compare to my SR beam types...

But I still use my brand-name ones first though. And I treat them all like they're made of glass....

I also saw a tech working on a Subie motor at a local shop (that I actually have a LOT of respect for) using what appeared to be an HF TQ wrench. This shop is a small independent shop that cannot afford "comebacks."

 

[eschoendorff]

I don't care how off a torque wrench is, I know something's not right way before threads are stripped...

I don't use my tools everyday and even I can tell if a bolt is going to strip....

I think you just need to pay more attention.

 

[eschoendorff]

I've said it before ... when buying torque wrenches, micrometers, dial calipers or even tape measures, you don't want to skimp on quality; especially on inch pound torque wrenches.

You are marketing's *********....

 

[johnny1290]

I'm not as smart as you, plus I trust too much, so sue me!!

I don't care how off a torque wrench is, I know something's not right way before threads are stripped...

 

[johnny1290]

..

I think you just need to pay more attention.

It wasjust aperfect storm, I was torquing stuff I haven't foole diwth in 20 years(i was installing a new engine/etc), used a borrowed torque wrench, it was half inch which I never use, and its long as hell, and a ratchet type which I'm not experienced with either...

but I gave it a shot, I figured what could go wrong?!?

Live and learn.

Plus, those easy outs were just going to waste sitting in that box unused!!!...


actually I fixed it, when I felt the bolt start to strip...I just backed off a little and voila! fixed!

the other one, I ran a tap and used a longer bolt!

That's whe I figured I'd leave well enough alone until I could get a torque wrench I was more familiar with. I'll fix that thermosat housing bolt later, when I'm overheating in the desert going to vegas most likely!!

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Why not? They're more accurate than the Snap-On ones. Oh, and we don't have to engrave our tools, it's actually discouraged where I work.

Do you have some sort of PMET or calibration program? Ours had to have a company engraved number on them, tracked in a computer, and the sticker showing calibration. If you failed to have it recalibrated on time, your foreman got a nastygram and came looking for you. It HAD to have current calibration, or be removed from the work area, ie: taken home. The engraving was necessary to track the tool. I have a company provided tire gauge and it has to be calibrated each 12 mos. I cannot imagine the FAA allowing a facility to operate without a calibration program for ALL precision measuring tools, not just the company owned ones.

They are tools, not artwork, or rare antiques, tools that you USE, not sit and look at. I still haven't figured out Merkava_4's hangup with engraving tools.

Charles

 

[Uncle Buck]

They are tools, not artwork, or rare antiques, tools that you USE, not sit and look at. I still haven't figured out Merkava_4's hangup with engraving tools.
Charles

Amen to that!

 

[XJ1100]

I am actually quite surprised with the responses I am getting on here. But this is good news for poor people like myself.

I think I will just go down to Harbor Freight and purchase a cheap clicker wrench. I will actually have access to one of those torque sensing extensions in a month or so and will be able to check the accuracy of the "cheap" wrench.

Thanks for all of the insightful responses!

 

[eschoendorff]

Does anyone know how to calibrate a clicker TQ wrench? How do you do the actual adjustments? Anyone ever take one apart????

 

[Treeman]

Somewhere on the net is an article with pictures on how to take apart and "maybe" adjust the calibration on the generic Asian torque wrenches. I can't find it now.

What scares me about the internet are threads like this with anecdotal stories that take on a life of their own and become the gospel.

Google "Harbor Freight Torque wrench" to read a dozen threads with very negative outcomes of people who have bought them.

To the contrary of this thread, while doing my "analysis paralysis" TQ investigation before buying three new wrenches at work this winter, I communicated with several aviation business guys and they only endorsed/used name brand wrenches.....Stalwhill, Sturdevant-Richmont, Snap-on/CDI, P.I. and Proto. I NEVER saw one mention of Asian wrenches in the critical use industries (occasionally Craftsman).

Having said all that, I have a Great Neck wrench that tests just fine against the expensive ones. As stated before, I always test my wrenches in a vise before doing a critical job. I wouldn't trust any wrench out of the box.

Also, google torque wrench calibration for articles on DIY testing.

 

[Chris Adams]

I don't care how off a torque wrench is, I know something's not right way before threads are stripped...

I don't use my tools everyday and even I can tell if a bolt is going to strip....

I think you just need to pay more attention.

I've got to disagree.
We were working on a Neon (friends daughter's car, what can I say) and the book torque spec was wrong. Way wrong.
Intake bolts, grade 8 bolts into aluminum head. As I say, a Neon.

My buddy was doing it and he is a retired (46 years old, 24 years on the line) mechanic using a very accurate inch pound torque wrench and using it carefully. The book called for 140 inch pounds. At about 80 inch pounds they started to strip.
We had to pull them, drill out the holes and rethread larger.
No way could you 'feel' it start to go.

Maybe on a lug nut or head bolt, but small stuff in aluminum?

There just isn't enough tactile sensation before aluminum lets go.

 

[jay50]

Poor man's calibration.
Test three bolts, one after the other with three torque wrenches. Notice that one clicks lower than the others, one clicks higher than others.

If all click at same point they are all pretty good.

Example put a bolt down to 80 ft-lb. Then check it with other two wrenches. Do this a few times and you can find which one is highest to lowest.
Tape a number to each wrench before you start, of course.
Log each reading.
This takes about five minutes to do.

.

This is not a very good test to prove accuracy. There is a difference in measuring static torque (bolt at 80 ft/lb) compared to dynamic torque (tightening a fastener to 80ft/lb)

 

[eschoendorff]

I've got to disagree.
We were working on a Neon (friends daughter's car, what can I say) and the book torque spec was wrong. Way wrong.
Intake bolts, grade 8 bolts into aluminum head. As I say, a Neon.

My buddy was doing it and he is a retired (46 years old, 24 years on the line) mechanic using a very accurate inch pound torque wrench and using it carefully. The book called for 140 inch pounds. At about 80 inch pounds they started to strip.
We had to pull them, drill out the holes and rethread larger.
No way could you 'feel' it start to go.

Maybe on a lug nut or head bolt, but small stuff in aluminum?

There just isn't enough tactile sensation before aluminum lets go.

Yeah, but at 80 you said they started to strip. He didn't go all the way to 140 did he? He obviously felt that something was wrong, yes?

 

[Chris Adams]

Yeah, but at 80 you said they started to strip. He didn't go all the way to 140 did he? He obviously felt that something was wrong, yes?

At about 110 (doing it in stages, of course, one suddenly went loose. He knew what had happened so only one was actually stripped. All of them had been tightened to 90 and two showed signs of eating the thread when removed.
Point is, you may or may not feel a problem with aluminum small stuff.
This guy does fantastic body work, works on custom tiny things (builds HotWheel toys to look like real ones) and is pretty talented with his hands, but even he managed to strip them.
My point is, even if you pay attention, even if you are careful and the tool is perfect it is still possible to strip one.
This case it was a typo Or an error in the Mitchels.

 

[NOMAD]

I got a Craftsman beam style torque wrench recently from my Dad. i remember him having this like 20 years ago. It's in good condition my sight but I'm wondering if it's not worth using. Does Sears warranty the beam types? I read here that they do. Should I go exchange it for a new one?

 

[eschoendorff]

I got a Craftsman beam style torque wrench recently from my Dad. i remember him having this like 20 years ago. It's in good condition my sight but I'm wondering if it's not worth using. Does Sears warranty the beam types? I read here that they do. Should I go exchange it for a new one?

Not unless there is something wrong with it... and the chances that there is something wrong with it are pretty slim.