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Cheapest 4x8 sheet material for walls?

T_R

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I'm going to be insulating and poly sheeting my shop in the next few weeks. What is the cheapest material you have seen in 4x8 sheets to cover the walls and ceiling. Drywall is not an option, I don't want it. Nothing will be hung from the walls, walls will not be finished and appearance isn't super important. Basically I just want to cover the poly sheeting as inexpensively as possible to protect it.

I was thinking OSB, it's like $16 a sheet locally for 7/16.

I also saw this thin plywood at lowes that interested me. Light weight is a huge plus for hanging sheets on the ceiling.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/RevolutionPly-5mm-Poplar-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/50121135
 
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smalltown

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T_R I would think the OSB would be the cheapest. I bought mine in the Auburn Home Depot about three years ago.
One thing that did surprise me was just how much the price would swing. If memory serves me right I paid about ~$7.50 a 4x8 sheet. I kept watching the prices, and when it fell I bought my OSB.
 
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T_R

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OSB is the spawn of Satan.
How long will you be there? spend the couple bucks per sheet to get 1/2" ply imo

I will be here for the rest of my life, 40-50 years. But this shop was originally intended for just parking when I built it 2 years ago. It got pressed into service as a working shop when I opened my new business recently and I need to insulate it. I will probably build a new larger shop once we start turning a profit. So about 1-2 years use then it goes back to just parking cars.
 
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T_R

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T_R I would think the OSB would be the cheapest. I bought mine in the Auburn Home Depot about three years ago.
One thing that did surprise me was just how much the price would swing. If memory serves me right I paid about ~$7.50 a 4x8 sheet. I kept watching the prices, and when it fell I bought my OSB.

If I could get osb for $7.50 it would be sitting in there ready to go up right now. It's $16 at home depot and lowes right now. Thing is it's cold and I can't hold the heat in the building, so I need to do something soon. With 35k btu running full time I can barely keep it comfortable to work.
 
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T_R

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cheap paneling, in your choice of color and design. I covered one wall of my old garage in an antique brick paneling and from 10 ft away it looked alright.

Home depot has some cheap paneling for $10 a sheet. Does it warp horribly without something under it? I don't really care if it gets wavy and a 10 footer is fine.
 

metlmunchr

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I'd go with the thin plywood you linked. Specs say it comes primed, so a coat of white or light colored paint will make a good looking job that should also be good for light reflection.

Personally, I'm no fan of exposed OSB. Only thing that looks worse than bare OSB is painted OSB. The rough surface is like a magnet for dust and dirt, and it's near impossible to clean to the point where it looks decent again short of another coat of paint.

Above is personal experience. My shop where I make a living is a 60x150 metal building and we put OSB up to the girt line at 8 ft to protect the insulation. Worst thing we ever could've done. Looks like hell, and it hasn't been mistreated.
 

Norcal

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I'd go with the thin plywood you linked. Specs say it comes primed, so a coat of white or light colored paint will make a good looking job that should also be good for light reflection.

Personally, I'm no fan of exposed OSB. Only thing that looks worse than bare OSB is painted OSB. The rough surface is like a magnet for dust and dirt, and it's near impossible to clean to the point where it looks decent again short of another coat of paint.

Above is personal experience. My shop where I make a living is a 60x150 metal building and we put OSB up to the girt line at 8 ft to protect the insulation. Worst thing we ever could've done. Looks like hell, and it hasn't been mistreated.

You forgot that OSB has a stench to it for a while.
 

Norcal

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I'd go with the thin plywood you linked. Specs say it comes primed, so a coat of white or light colored paint will make a good looking job that should also be good for light reflection.

Personally, I'm no fan of exposed OSB. Only thing that looks worse than bare OSB is painted OSB. The rough surface is like a magnet for dust and dirt, and it's near impossible to clean to the point where it looks decent again short of another coat of paint.

Above is personal experience. My shop where I make a living is a 60x150 metal building and we put OSB up to the girt line at 8 ft to protect the insulation. Worst thing we ever could've done. Looks like hell, and it hasn't been mistreated.

In addition to what was written above you forgot that OSB has a stench to it for a while.
 

ckucia

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The thin plywood you linked to is typically used for underlayment but very often the outer layer is surprisingly nice looking wood. The stuff you linked to is listed as poplar, but I know a guy who used Luan plywood for refacing some kitchen cabinets. Finishes up really nice.

I would think the biggest problem with that would be warping, but if that's not a concern it will probably work.

The inexpensive panelling at the big box stores, in my experience, is usually MDF or some other pressed wood. Would probably work the same, but if there's any moisture in the garage, it's going to warp and distort even worse than the thin plywood and isn't going to offer much in the way of damage resistance.

Metal siding has been mentioned on the board for inside use. That would give a reflective surface (in a light color) and easy cleaning. Although if you're in a cold climate and those walls are enough below ambient, you could get condensation on it especially if you're using something like a propane heater. Corrugated metal siding has it's fans too - it's usually a bit cheaper than the flatter metal siding, but it's also typically darker.
 

Bluevista

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1/4" tempered hardboard, $13.25 a 4x8 sheet at Menards last time I checked. It's actually a lot more stable in humid conditions than OSB or plywood. You just have to keep the edges dry like anything, stay a 1/2" off the floor and it should be good. If you don't like brown it can be painted.
 

HeelSpur

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I've seen stacks of osb at my local restore, might check one if one is near you.
More than likely they were cut wrong though.
 
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T_R

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Ask your insurance company about running a business out of a garage and ask THEM what to use for the walls.
Put up the wrong stuff in the wrong fashion...
No claim will be paid.

This might not be a
What I want
Thing.
This may be a
I'm uninsurable if I do it wrong
Thing.

We are insured with a garagekeepers policy liability only. There are no requirements about the building.

1/4" tempered hardboard, $13.25 a 4x8 sheet at Menards last time I checked. It's actually a lot more stable in humid conditions than OSB or plywood. You just have to keep the edges dry like anything, stay a 1/2" off the floor and it should be good. If you don't like brown it can be painted.

Thanks I will look into that. We don't have Menards here in New England. We have Lowes, Home Depot and a regional chain called EBS.
 

LDR814

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Some of the guys I work with have suggested plywood walls for the garage / shop. I am a little concerned about fire hazard. Is that a concern?
 
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T_R

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Some of the guys I work with have suggested plywood walls for the garage / shop. I am a little concerned about fire hazard. Is that a concern?


I suppose it is for some people. I don't have any code requirements or insurance requirements. I do some mig welding and some grinding but use common sense. Right now there is just exposed studs and the back of the sheathing. Same thing really.

FWIW I previously worked in a shop with plywood walls a few feet from where I worked with torches regularly, they were fully insured and it never seemed to be an issue when the insurance inspectors came around.
 

matt_i

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I gotta have the cheapest stuff around (not by me but put into a section of my shop when I bought this place).

...1/4" osb...Lowes has it today for 11.08 per 48 x 96 sheet per the interwebs.
 
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T_R

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I gotta have the cheapest stuff around (not by me but put into a section of my shop when I bought this place).

...1/4" osb...Lowes has it today for 11.08 per 48 x 96 sheet per the interwebs.

Do you have a link? I didn't see it on the lowes site and don't recall it at the store here.
 

finn

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I used 1/4” osb for a temporary ceiling.

It’s wavier than Lake Superior in a November gale.

Looks terrible. Covering it with white metal is on the to do list.
 
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Automobilist

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I have no idea, and couldn't care less what the "cheapest" anything is. Life's too short to be cheap...

Philosophical ramblings aside; I highly recommend (and use) galvanized corrugated roofing steel for my shop walls, up to 48". From there up, drywall. I have a lot of auto & racing related art on the walls, and it looks so much better on a clean, painted surface.

Don't go cheapo...
 

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RStewart

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I have no idea, and couldn't care less what the "cheapest" anything is. Life's too short to be cheap...

Philosophical ramblings aside; I highly recommend (and use) galvanized corrugated roofing steel for my shop walls, up to 48". From there up, drywall. I have a lot of auto & racing related art on the walls, and it looks so much better on a clean, painted surface.

Don't go cheapo...

Then he shows us naked walls. Haha

What is the aversion to dry wall? It's relatively inexpensive and cleans up and repairs easily. Maybe the lighter panels you posted for the ceiling? And in a couple years you have a nice car parking area.
 

Automobilist

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Then he shows us naked walls. Haha

/QUOTE]



Got me there!

That shot was during final construction. Mostly to show how cool the steel panels are. The beauty of those panels is that they clean very easily, and they pop right off to fix any air leaks, etc. I use the RapidAir system, and it's nice to easily get to it if needed. Plus, the steel just looks great under the drywall.

Put some pride into your project, man. You'll be spending a lot of time there, and it's a reflection of how much you value your shop...
 

MushCreek

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I get the whole cheap/temporary thing. What ever you use, check with local lumber yards as well. When I built my shop and house, I saved about 15% over the big box stores. The only items they were cheapest on was metal framing brackets and Romex cable.
 

mrramsey

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I have no idea, and couldn't care less what the "cheapest" anything is. Life's too short to be cheap...

Philosophical ramblings aside; I highly recommend (and use) galvanized corrugated roofing steel for my shop walls, up to 48". From there up, drywall. I have a lot of auto & racing related art on the walls, and it looks so much better on a clean, painted surface.

Don't go cheapo...

I am doing a very similar thing in my garage. I would also point out that drywall IS probably the "Cheapest" thing you can use. as pointed out, its easy to repair when needed.
 

Matt M PA

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I don't know the cost, but my detached was done inside with SmartPanel. It's the same stuff the local Amish builders use on the exterior shed walls. (Amish builders built my garage.)

It has a wood texture and in my case, was already primed. It has a tongue a groove pattern so you don't see an edge. Looks good and seems to be very durable. I can post a pic if needed.

I too wasn't sure what I wanted on the inside of the building. I considered OSB, but didn't like the rough look and texture. I knew I just didn;t want Sheetrock with the taping, etc. Yes, I wanted a more finished look than the OP. I knew if I didn't do it right in the beginning, I'd likely never do it right once things were installed. In the end, I'm glad I did what I did.
 

stm317

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What about skipping the separate insulation, vapor barrier, and paneling, and just putting up rigid foam panels with foil facing? The thicker foam board is usually more expensive than OSB, but I bet the total cost would be very competitive since you wouldn't be buying 3 separate products. Foam gives you more r value per inch than other insulations, the foil facing negates the need for a vapor barrier if you tape the seams, and it wouldn't need to be covered by sheets of anything else. Many posters have gotten great deals on foam panels via Craigslist. I got mine for significantly less than it would cost at the local home store that way.

Do a little math and see what the total project cost would be for separate insulation, vapor barrier, sheet material for the walls and hardware vs foam panels, hardware and tape. I'd be surprised if the foam panels didn't get you more insulation for less overall money. And you'll probably be done much faster.
 
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roscoe2000

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Ask your insurance company about running a business out of a garage and ask THEM what to use for the walls.
Put up the wrong stuff in the wrong fashion...
No claim will be paid.

This might not be a
What I want
Thing.
This may be a
I'm uninsurable if I do it wrong
Thing.

When dealing with Insurance Companies, it is best to proceed with caution. Since even an inquiry can be justification for a rate increase. But it may be better than having a claim denied.
 
OP
T

T_R

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Then he shows us naked walls. Haha

/QUOTE]



Got me there!

That shot was during final construction. Mostly to show how cool the steel panels are. The beauty of those panels is that they clean very easily, and they pop right off to fix any air leaks, etc. I use the RapidAir system, and it's nice to easily get to it if needed. Plus, the steel just looks great under the drywall.

Put some pride into your project, man. You'll be spending a lot of time there, and it's a reflection of how much you value your shop...

I have a new business that isn't profitable yet and probably won't be until next year. I'm in the shop a few hours a day, a few days a week. Most of the time I'm in the office. I just need to keep the place warm for now. In a year or two I will build a nice big "show" shop.

I get the whole cheap/temporary thing. What ever you use, check with local lumber yards as well. When I built my shop and house, I saved about 15% over the big box stores. The only items they were cheapest on was metal framing brackets and Romex cable.

That was the case when I built this originally, but now the local chain is more on osb and T1-11 than HD and Lowes.

I don't know the cost, but my detached was done inside with SmartPanel. It's the same stuff the local Amish builders use on the exterior shed walls. (Amish builders built my garage.)

It has a wood texture and in my case, was already primed. It has a tongue a groove pattern so you don't see an edge. Looks good and seems to be very durable. I can post a pic if needed.

I too wasn't sure what I wanted on the inside of the building. I considered OSB, but didn't like the rough look and texture. I knew I just didn;t want Sheetrock with the taping, etc. Yes, I wanted a more finished look than the OP. I knew if I didn't do it right in the beginning, I'd likely never do it right once things were installed. In the end, I'm glad I did what I did.

I've used that before on my shed and its actually a nice product.

What about skipping the separate insulation, vapor barrier, and paneling, and just putting up rigid foam panels with foil facing? The thicker foam board is usually more expensive than OSB, but I bet the total cost would be very competitive since you wouldn't be buying 3 separate products. Foam gives you more r value per inch than other insulations, the foil facing negates the need for a vapor barrier if you tape the seams, and it wouldn't need to be covered by sheets of anything else. Many posters have gotten great deals on foam panels via Craigslist. I got mine for significantly less than it would cost at the local home store that way.

Do a little math and see what the total project cost would be for separate insulation, vapor barrier, sheet material for the walls and hardware vs foam panels, hardware and tape. I'd be surprised if the foam panels didn't get you more insulation for less overall money.

How resistant to denting would a bare panel be? If I lean on it by accident will I dent it? I suppose the foil facing helps with flame reisistance? I take some calculated risks, but I think bare foam might be too much for me.


I'm off now to go work out there. It's 11 outside. I've had the heat going for about an hour, hopefully I can get it to the 30's or 40's. I'm ok with that, but most comfortable if I can get it to 50 or so. I don't need to heat the place to the 60's or 70's.
 

stm317

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How resistant to denting would a bare panel be? If I lean on it by accident will I dent it? I suppose the foil facing helps with flame reisistance? I take some calculated risks, but I think bare foam might be too much for me.

Foam is not going to be as durable as wood or metal, and there are some fire risks associated with it, so it may not be the right choice here. It's fine for a building where you just park stuff though, and might be worth running the numbers using it as your insulation material anyway if you're going to cover it with sheets of something else.

I looked at sheet prices recently, and found that metal liner panel was about $.03 per sq ft more than 7/16ths OSB near me. But, it comes pre-painted in a glossy white that reflects light and makes them much easier to clean than bare OSB. That's a small price to pay for something that will make the shop look more professional, and make it easier to work in there too. Time is money, so quick clean up can be a big deal too.
 
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stimpy

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do 5/8 x firerock ( drywall ) its cheaper than plywood and easier to work with , and you get to learn another trade feather . just make sure you get the jab saw to make your life easier . as for mudding it rule of thumb wide seams of mud are better as you have a longer distance to feather it to hide it and the walls are hung sideways (4foot height ) not put up lengthwise ( we put a spacer block in to gap the ceiling panels ) and wet sand the mud ( sponge sand it) so no dust .
 

Matt M PA

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I suppose my follow-up is...how big is the work area or shop? I'm wondering (if this is a temporary arrangement) if it would make sense to somehow curtain off the work area and just heat that space?
 

like2wheel

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do 5/8 x firerock ( drywall ) its cheaper than plywood and easier to work with , and you get to learn another trade feather . just make sure you get the jab saw to make your life easier . as for mudding it rule of thumb wide seams of mud are better as you have a longer distance to feather it to hide it and the walls are hung sideways (4foot height ) not put up lengthwise ( we put a spacer block in to gap the ceiling panels ) and wet sand the mud ( sponge sand it) so no dust .

Read post #1....
 

couch67

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hi, its been mentioned a few times but I'd stay away from anything that is 1/4" thick for the ceiling. It will sag in between joists after time, and look like hell.

The 7/16" osb should work for ceiling, it is rated for roofing decking ...

couch
 

lakeroadster

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Foam is not going to be as durable as wood or metal, and there are some fire risks associated with it, so it may not be the right choice here.

Fire risk depends on the type of foam.

PolyIso has a fire rating similar to drywall = very fire resistant.
More here: Polyiso Maintains its High Level of Inherent Fire Resistance

They also make a fire resistant poly sheeting material that doubles as a vapor barrier. You might want to simply use it for your vapor barrier and not use anything else.
More here:
Reinforced Fire Retardant Poly Sheeting - 6 Mil, 20' x 100'


Happy Trails..
 
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Parrothead

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I'm going to be insulating and poly sheeting my shop in the next few weeks. What is the cheapest material you have seen in 4x8 sheets to cover the walls and ceiling. Drywall is not an option, I don't want it. Nothing will be hung from the walls, walls will not be finished and appearance isn't super important. Basically I just want to cover the poly sheeting as inexpensively as possible to protect it.

I was thinking OSB, it's like $16 a sheet locally for 7/16.

I also saw this thin plywood at lowes that interested me. Light weight is a huge plus for hanging sheets on the ceiling.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/RevolutionPly-5mm-Poplar-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/50121135

Why not just use thick poly sheeting?

Umm...The purpose of this post which was to find a cheap way to protect the poly sheeting. :dunno:

Sorry for calling you out, but this drives me batty. Too many people on GJ don’t read the actual question and answer anyway. That and I haven’t had my morning caffeine. :beer: Sorry for the rant.
 

Dustball

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Cheapest panel would be 1/8" hardboard/Masonite. Currently both Menards and Home Depot local to me have them for $5.98 each.
 
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T_R

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I suppose my follow-up is...how big is the work area or shop? I'm wondering (if this is a temporary arrangement) if it would make sense to somehow curtain off the work area and just heat that space?



576 sq feet. I use the whole thing. One side is a lift and the other side is open floor.
 
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