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Cheapest Brake Cleaner?

bobcatdan

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Contact cleaner less harsh on seals?

I considered switching the shop over to bulk / sure shots, but all the hassle and cost combined = just keep using aerosol cans.....

Per instructions in a SCV PIP, a plastic and circuit board safe electrical cleaner is the preferred cleaner for hydraulic components. One of these days I want to stop in at the old dealer and get a couple cans of the Deere brand. That stuff is awesome, it's cleaning ability is right there with brake clean. I haven't found another contact cleaner I really like.
 
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Ign

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In my experience the chlorinated works better/faster and dries almost immediately. The non-chlorinated stuff . . . doesn't.

Anything the government forbids results in something that costs MUCH more, doesn't work well, or in some cases, at all. Toilets, gas cans, caulk, paint, brake cleaner--to name a few. :mad:

Supposedly chlorine sticks to or contaminates certain pads. I dunno.

There is a WILD range in non-chlorinated cleaners when it comes to effectiveness or quality. The O'Reilly house brand non-chlor is pretty good. And only some of the CRC stuff. If it's a green can with any sort of a yellow banner or highlight, it *****. Napa sells a lot of this. True, old-school non-chlorinated is best (and probably not available in California).

The red can chlorinated CRC Brakleen is way cheaper than wasp spray, sprays nearly as far and works just as well. I don't understand why it seems to be the ONLY aerosol brake cleaner that sprays so far in such a nice, solid stream.

I've been in the same boat as the OP (albeit he started the thread in '12), looking for good deals on cases of brake cleaner for wasp season. I think I ordered through Reid Supply but after shipping it was barely a savings. I watch O'Reilly like a hawk for sales on either their stuff or actual Brakleen. 2 for $5 is a great deal, 2 for $6 is a decent deal.

The crappier non-chlor's won't remove Sharpie or Markzall from steel or Al, but the better ones rinse it away like a miracle. Perfect for cleaning layout marks off parts. Also good non-chlor rinses Dykem right off. Ever priced a can of actual layout fluid remover? Holy ****.

edit: there were some cases of brake cleaner CHEAP on Amazon awhile back, it appeared in Hot Deals and I think it made it's way there from SD of course. Worked out to like $1.30/can. I ordered a couple cases and it was the hippie non-chlorinated, might as well have been spraying water, didn't do a damn thing and seemed to mist most of it away before it got to your work.

edit edit: here was the Amazon stuff, now long dead (2014)
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251685
 
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Loren871

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Don't know if you have a John Deere store around but John Deere brake clean is by far the best I've used. I've used them all from Wal Mart to advance and Napa but nothin beats it. It's about 4 dollars a can a little higher then what your payin now but it's a lot stronger and goes a lot further. I don't use half as much as I do the other brands. It dries quick aswell.
 

theoldwizard1

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Brakleen in the red can... not that expensive and does the job

I just found out that Brakleen in the green can (non-chlorinated) is more expensive and, even though the cans are the same size, the GREEN CAN CONTAINS ABOUT 5 OZ. LESS !
 

Skin

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Ok, quick question on Chlorinated vs Non-Chlorinated. I assume the Non-Chlorinated is "better" for the environment. Advance Auto near me stocks spray cans of both types and can get the 5 gallon jugs of the Non-Chlorinated CRC Brakleen. What are the benefits and / or hazards of using Chlorinated vs. Non-Chlorinated?

Chlorinated has been banned in a few States. I actually prefer the non-chlorinated. They both do the same thing so far as I can tell and the chlorinated stuff has a much stronger vapor odor. Like it or not you're going to get a good huff of it if you use it enough, i'll take the less pungent version.
 

thefoobag

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I live in a very small town, takes a long time to get any auto supplies if I am in a rush, however we do have a dollar general, Gunk brake clean is in the low $3 range. They have peak oil and coolant products even cheaper than walmart does. Has worked out very well in many needed situations. Lately im averaging around 13-15 dollars per oil change :)
 

bobcatdan

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Don't know if you have a John Deere store around but John Deere brake clean is by far the best I've used. I've used them all from Wal Mart to advance and Napa but nothin beats it. It's about 4 dollars a can a little higher then what your payin now but it's a lot stronger and goes a lot further. I don't use half as much as I do the other brands. It dries quick aswell.

It's some powerful stuff. Been using brake cleaner for years and never had an issue with it hurting anything. When I first started at Deere I was replacing a seal in a housing. Got it in and noticed some **** on the housing so I sprayed it off. Deere's brake clean only misted the seal and melted it. Deere's chemicals are pretty damn good all in all.
 

wyo george

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My two favorite brands are 3M and Macs (NAPA brand), about once a month NAPA has one or the other on sale for $1.99/can and when it's on sale I buy a few cases. I usually go through 2-5 cans a week depending on the jobs so buying a few cases when it's on sale keeps me from ever having to pay full price.
 

Mastermind

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Ypsilanti, MI
So what are you guys using as far as 1-5 gallon cans? I already have 3 sure shots and there's two more in the shop. Bought a case last week of cans from Orielly's and it's already about gone. And no parts washer. Or carb clean. If I get the boss to buy gallons it will be easier to keep hidden and my sure shots are locked up so no one will mess with them. Its just figuring out the effectiveness of the gallons/cans.
 

PSYKO_Inc

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Fairfield, CA
I was at O'Reilly last week and they had a buy one get one free on their house brand brake cleaner. Got 2 cans for 3 bucks and change.
 

zmotorsports

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Never used a sureshot, never heard of it before actually, will have to check it out. Not sure what the epa would have to say about having them in a shop.

Just out of curiosity, I wonder why you think the EPA would be concerned with using SureShots in a shop environment? For the most part that is what they were designed for and don't see any more risk than an aerosol can. I am just curious because we get inspected annually and it has never been an issue.

OSHA is a different story but the main biggie with OSHA that is required is secondary labeling. We just had our annual Safety Audit and secondary labeling is one thing that is heavily inspected, especially in maintenance shops and janitorial areas. Secondary labeling is something I am **** about with our mechanics.

Mike.
 

bobcatdan

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Just out of curiosity, I wonder why you think the EPA would be concerned with using SureShots in a shop environment? For the most part that is what they were designed for and don't see any more risk than an aerosol can. I am just curious because we get inspected annually and it has never been an issue.

OSHA is a different story but the main biggie with OSHA that is required is secondary labeling. We just had our annual Safety Audit and secondary labeling is one thing that is heavily inspected, especially in maintenance shops and janitorial areas. Secondary labeling is something I am **** about with our mechanics.

Mike.

In the work place labeling anything in its non original container is a must and just using a sharpie isn't enough. At home I just paint and color code my different cans and sureshots. Red is gas, yellow is diesel and orange is fluid film.
 

crerus75

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Anyone read the msds and try to make their own? From what I remember it's a combo of acetone and toluene and 12% other stuff.

I have. The MSDS that I read listed roughly 50% acetone, 25% xylene, and 25% methanol. I mixed some up and put it in a clear squeeze bottle (condiment bottle) that I bought at WalMart for a buck. Works fine for general degreasing and evaporates more slowly than pure acetone, which flashes off too quickly to clean well sometimes. I keep aerosols around for when I want to use the straw to get in a crevice, but for general use my witches' brew works fine.

I think the next step will be to get a Sure Shot and fill it with my homebrew concoction.
 
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zmotorsports

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In the work place labeling anything in its non original container is a must and just using a sharpie isn't enough. At home I just paint and color code my different cans and sureshots. Red is gas, yellow is diesel and orange is fluid film.

Yes, I am very familiar with secondary labeling as I deal with it daily in my full-time job. I was inquiring though about the above comment pertaining to the EPA not wanting them in the shop environment. That is the one I am curious about.

Mike.
 

Tonyuk

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I have a friend who swears by aerosol de-icer as a brake cleaner. Not tried it myself but i guess its just really alcohol, water and a bit of propo glycol, might be something to it.
 

ex-x-fire

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Our local Chrysler dealer had a deal in the early part of the year, I think it ended up being $3.50 a can, maybe it was less, I can't remember . Plus the cans seem to spray longer before running out. Our shop bought a dozen cases.
 

Ign

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O'Reilys is 4.29 + tax ..

where is it cheaper in 2017 ?

I thought O’Reilly was still 2/$7 on CRC thru the end of the month.

Otherwise $3.47 at WM for chlorinated and IIRC the non-chlorinated is closer to $3. The 05089 is what you want if you want it to spray straight and far :D

No Menards within several states of me.
 

-OSIS-

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Dish soap and you’ll find many manufacturers recommended it for new rotors over brake clean.
 

lbhsbz

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Find a local jobber type auto parts store that services the repair shops in the area and talk to them. I generally pay $20/case and buy 2 or 3 cases at a time.
 

Jazzman442

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Sep 17, 2013
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Napa and Advanced auto I buy it buy he case and it is between $1.80 and $2.20 a can.

I always by the bigger cans for that price. If its not on sale it will be next week.
 

L.Cheapo

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Does the chlorinated work better than the non-chlorinate?

In my opinion it does. The Republik of New Jersey doesnt allow it to be sold here though. Good thing I'm always visiting other states. ;)
 

rustbucket5

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Apr 22, 2015
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i prefer bulk over cans, although in some instances you need the pressure stream of a can. i got a shop i worked at to switch to bulk and the amount of brake clean we saved was incredible not to mention it cost i think 25 or 35$ a 5 gallon pail. thats cheap enough to never worry about how much you use
 

theoldwizard1

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If you want CRC brand Brakleen, Walmart has it for $3.47/can. This is the best price I can find anywhere, even better than the 1 gallon and 5 gallon containers.
 
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