cheapest driveway material?

[brett3xx]

Im in the process of building a new shop and I'm looking for ideas on the driveway and parking area. I've already spent $10k on limestone gravel for the driveway and building pad. I really don't want to spend another 10K to finish it so I'm looking for less expensive alternatives. Any recommendations?

Untitled by Brett Sparks, on Flickr

Shop progress by Brett Sparks, on Flickr

Shop progress by Brett Sparks, on Flickr

 

[tthornto]

It looks finished to me already, so I'd say leave it as is and drive on it! But if you agreed with that then you wouldn't be posting here asking about it so what are your concerns for the driveway? Is it muddy? rough or wash-boarded? Drainage issues? Concerned about dust? do you need it to support heavy loads? A location would help too as there may be some others in your area who know more about what materials are available in your area and how much they cost.

 

[dbabicky]

What he said !

 

[Thumper68]

I have had good luck with used asphalt paving mixed with class 5 gravel, the local place here calls it road mix IIRC.

It packs well, repels water and holds a crown reasonable well, and it does not crack when heavy stuff drives over it.

 

[Stuart in MN]

We don't need your home address, but tell us what state or country you're in. If you're in a freeze/thaw area, or someplace that gets a ton of rain, the requirements are going to vary.

 

[BuffettFan]

At my boat club, we use "Millings" which is ground up (milled) used asphalt from road repair.
It packs well and can be replenished as needed. It costs less, at least in our area, than any gravel mixture meant for road bases.

 

[brett3xx]

It looks finished to me already, so I'd say leave it as is and drive on it! But if you agreed with that then you wouldn't be posting here asking about it so what are your concerns for the driveway? Is it muddy? rough or wash-boarded? Drainage issues? Concerned about dust? do you need it to support heavy loads? A location would help too as there may be some others in your area who know more about what materials are available in your area and how much they cost.

It has a good start, but there is mud coming through the gravel in parts, and we still have a lot of uncovered dirt for the parking area. There will be an occasional 18 wheeler making deliveries. Im located in Jasper, Al

 

[tthornto]

It has a good start, but there is mud coming through the gravel in parts, and we still have a lot of uncovered dirt for the parking area. There will be an occasional 18 wheeler making deliveries. Im located in Jasper, Al

For the areas where the mud is coming through have some larger crushed rock delivered, I mean LARGE big enough that you wouldn't want to drive a car over it (at least 2.5" maybe up to 4"). Let the construction traffic pack it in. Cement trucks, lumber deliveries, contractors trucks etc. The large rocks will interlock with the small ones and give you a good sturdy base that will withstand heavy traffic so long as you also manage your drainage. Then when construction is nearly done (when they are doing final grading around the finished building is good timing because there will be equipment on site to do any grading if needed) you can add more of the smaller gravel / millings on top to make it look nice and smooth.

 

[finn]

I've used crushed concrete and locally available crushed mine rock. The crushed mine rock locks together well.

Crushed concrete is cheaper, but the aggregate has rounder edges so it doesn't pack as well.

You likely won't find the mine rock unless your area has a history of some sort of deep rock mining.

 

[rustyjames]

At my boat club, we use "Millings" which is ground up (milled) used asphalt from road repair.
It packs well and can be replenished as needed. It costs less, at least in our area, than any gravel mixture meant for road bases.

Millings work great but they could become a liability in the future if you have it on your property. Here in NJ it's considered hazardous waste, but it's ok to used but is supposed to be covered with blacktop or concrete. As for the OP, he has 10k invested in limestone, if it were me I would taint that with millings.

 

[6768rogues]

We can get millings cheap when nearby road work is being done. It is essentially ground up blacktop. Roll it on a hot day and it will be fine.
Also, a nearby concrete plant has stuff cleaned from concrete trucks. When they have too much, they deliver it for the cost of delivery. It packs well and makes a good surface, but tends to stick to shoes and tires and tracks in the building.
I have driveways that are simply crushed limestone as you already have. I am careful to plow snow to a snow storage area that is on the driveway, because raking that stone from the lawn is a PAIN.

 

[cvairwerks]

1.5"- mixed with caliche...aka road base.

 

[rattle_snake]

I think crushed asphalt *****. Maybe there are different types/quality. Neighbors keep using it and it takes forever to pack. Once it does it is really dusty (at least in dry AZ).
I covered all of it on my property with granite.

But cheapest is likely crushed asphalt. Get what you pay for, although a good portion of whatever material cost is delivery.

 

[Sjfab]

If you are getting mud "pumping" up through your existing base, you need to fix the base. Have some "breaker run" aka 6"- hauled in and have it rolled flat. Then put 6" of class 5 or 3/4"- on top and have that packed. You'll have a driveway that will stand up to anything you want to drive on it.

 

[GYPSY400]

At my boat club, we use "Millings" which is ground up (milled) used asphalt from road repair.
It packs well and can be replenished as needed. It costs less, at least in our area, than any gravel mixture meant for road bases.

X2

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[bullnerd]

Doesn't the assfault millings track in on shoes and tires too?

 

[EnduroRdr]

In my neck of the woods you can get "Crushed Concrete " delivered by dump truck for $16 a yard. Damn **** makes nice solid drive after a couple of rains!


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[theoldwizard1]

Tar and chip.

 

[theoldwizard1]

In my neck of the woods you can get "Crushed Concrete " delivered by dump truck for $16 a yard. Damn **** makes nice solid drive after a couple of rains!

Depends on how fine it is crushed, how thick it is applied and if it above the surrounding low areas.

Like tar and chip, expect to have to add more for several years in a row.

 

[tros]

I have trap rock but it cost a lot 65.00 a yard and it does teal well .But itt tracks in on your shoes .

 

[tros]

crushed concrete is the least expensive for us in northern michigan.When it rains on it its like cement,

 

[FANTM58]

Recycled asphalt is used as a economic alternative to hot asphalt.
But you'll want to get it layer in the summer. The heat helps it compact..
At least in Colorado..

 

[NUTTSGT]

Did you have all that previous stone hauled in or are you hauling it ?

If you have a local quarry and can haul it yourself, you'll way more more for your money if you're willing to do a little sweat equity.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Milling used to be easy to get around here till they found out they can add a percentage in making new asphalt. Then the county and ODOT found they could save money using it for doing the berms rather than buying limestone.

To get millings you pretty much have to know somebody or just get lucky and find a contractor willing to dump a load at your place if you're close to the worksite.

 

[Dragfluid]

ConBit used here. Crushed concrete and asphalt. Works good.
Just had 3 end dumps brought in a couple weeks ago. Still got one left to spread out yet. Have been using it for quite a while. Seems to last a long time.

I've needed more of it ever since the construction of the Shed. But wanted to wait until I got that damn motorhome and some other **** out of the way. Now I'll have a nice yard again like before.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I like the hard flat limestone with a lot of rock fines. Locally it is called "dirty d". It fractures to about1/2" but only 1/8" thick with sharp edges. Its intended for concrete but the fines are not washed off yet. It quickly sets up almost like concrete.

The round gravel takes forever to set up.

Unfortunately, I have enough six inch rock I have yet to need to buy any. (High magnesium dolomite if you're interested in that sort of thing. I have lots. Someday I hope to have a lawn.)

 

[slip knot]

I've used milled asphalt and crushed concrete with good results. the best stuff was some coal slag the local power plant used to sell. We used it on a parking area at work and it was great. packed in tight, no tracking and held up to 18wheeler traffic. They quit selling it a few years ago. probably considered toxic waste now.

 

[Charlie51]

Crushed mine rock in the U P. A 4X8 trailer will carry about a ton (with 12" tires). Costs about $11.00/ton.

 

[ddawg16]

Crushed concrete....after a couple of years it's going to be compacted real well.

Touch up as necessary.

And if you ever get into some extra cash, pave it with concrete....you will have a good base to work with.

 

[OH_Varmntr]

If you have a steel mill nearby, see if they offer slag aggregate from the process in sizes useable for your drive.

The mill around here does and it's $4.50 a ton.


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