Cheapest way to get foam insulation sprayed?

[Cadillac STS]

I'm in West Michigan. Have a pole barn about 24 by 40 feet made of wood siding. I've been looking to insulate it and would like to use spray foam because it would allow me to seal up all the small areas where mice can get in, etc.. Between the wood and the slab and at the corners. Planning to store cars and want to have some buffer on fast temp changes and can't have rodents.

Seems the ideal way would be to spray foam the whole thing but it would cost thousands of dollars to do it.

Planning to drywall the ceiling and blow in insulation the standard way.

I am thinking of setting up an internal stud wall and using standard rolled insulation but first spray some areas with the spray foam. Called "Flash and Bat" from what I was reading.

Is there a less expensive way?

 

[HoosierBuddy]

When I built my "garage at any cost" project in 2006, I too was sold on the idea of spray foam, having watched many episodes of Holmes on Homes. Then, I got the price.

I think the 2 corners I cut on my garage were using brick only on the front and going with batted fiberglass rather than spray foam. The quoted cost was astronomical. That being said, the way to get your best price is find 3 installers and get 3 quotes.

Now...to your point about mice, I don't know about Michigan mice, but these Indiana mice can gnaw right through foam insulation. Suggest you need to separate your 'rodent infiltration' project from your 'air infiltration' project. They are likely two different solutions.

Good luck!

Phil

 

[theoldwizard1]

Spray foam does not guarantee rodent proof (unless they are now adding chemicals to the foam for that).

Also, if the wood siding is old and has a lot of cracks/gaps in it, you will likely need to put up something something to prevent the foam from just blowing through the holes.

 

[Highbeam]

You will not get a rodent free garage this way. Those roll up doors will not seal well enough anyway. But if you must, your areas of concern are all small enough to handle with cans of foam from the hardware store. You can buy hundreds of cans before you will spend enough money to cover the time for the professional foam guy to even drive to your garage.

I like your pole barn build out style. Stick frame a garage within a pole barn. I did it too.

 

[rburke65]

The cheapest way is only IF you owned the spray foam company!

 

[Cadillac STS]

Good comments thanks. Rodent and air/temp are two different issues with different solutions. I can get lots of those cans of spray foam for less than the big job, maybe patch what I can with wood and seal with foam.

I'm thinking of getting my lumber for the stud walls then lay in wait for insulation to come available on Craigslist. Put up 16 inch centers when 16 inch insulation is availavble, 24 if 24 available. Patch it like that through the summer. Drop down electrical boxes on the outside of the OSB covering as I go.

 

[Highbeam]

Fiberglass batt insulation is very cheap. You don't need the 16" spacing for vertical wall strength but you might like it for sheeting and hanging cabinets. I stuck with 16" to mimic residential construction.

How do you plan to attach the bottom plate to the slab? I used ramset nails instead of redheads. Not quite sure that I made the right choice, so far so good.

Price the batts and include the additional lumber that the 16" spacing would require.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

As I've posted many times:

When I priced out insulation, it was cheaper for me to buy it installed than it was to just buy the batts from Lowes or Home Depot.

Evidently, Owens Corning must sell it to installers at much less than they do to the box stores OR the box stores mark the **** up tremendously.

In any case, it makes no sense to buy it, haul it, hang it, and itch for a month if you can get it installed for less than the cost of the batts. Just sayin!

Phil

 

[Cadillac STS]

As I've posted many times:

When I priced out insulation, it was cheaper for me to buy it installed than it was to just buy the batts from Lowes or Home Depot.

Evidently, Owens Corning must sell it to installers at much less than they do to the box stores OR the box stores mark the **** up tremendously.

In any case, it makes no sense to buy it, haul it, hang it, and itch for a month if you can get it installed for less than the cost of the batts. Just sayin!

Phil

Good to know

 

[Sureshot]

As I've posted many times:

When I priced out insulation, it was cheaper for me to buy it installed than it was to just buy the batts from Lowes or Home Depot.

Evidently, Owens Corning must sell it to installers at much less than they do to the box stores OR the box stores mark the **** up tremendously.

In any case, it makes no sense to buy it, haul it, hang it, and itch for a month if you can get it installed for less than the cost of the batts. Just sayin!

Phil

I found the same thing with the blow in as well.

 

[James-W]

You can buy spray foam kits from places like Menards, but I am not sure of the cost, how thick the foam will be, or how many square feet the kit will cover. Apparently you buy the kit and it comes with the tanks, the hose and the spray gun. When the tanks are empty, you dispose of them. I don't know just how you are supposed to dispose of them, I guess you return them to where you bought them. Anyway, if you are still interested in spray foam it may be a good idea to look into it and see how much it would cost to do the size area you need done.

 

[Cadillac STS]

You can buy spray foam kits from places like Menards, but I am not sure of the cost, how thick the foam will be, or how many square feet the kit will cover. Apparently you buy the kit and it comes with the tanks, the hose and the spray gun. When the tanks are empty, you dispose of them. I don't know just how you are supposed to dispose of them, I guess you return them to where you bought them. Anyway, if you are still interested in spray foam it may be a good idea to look into it and see how much it would cost to do the size area you need done.

I saw that too. Can also buy DIY foam kits from ebay. I was thinking of using that if I was going to do a "Flash and Bat" plan. One I saw would turn on but not off so I would have to have a careful plan to spray where I needed and keep spraying until it was empty.

Looks like it is best to get some quotes on having it done though.

 

[James-W]

I saw that too. Can also buy DIY foam kits from ebay. I was thinking of using that if I was going to do a "Flash and Bat" plan. One I saw would turn on but not off so I would have to have a careful plan to spray where I needed and keep spraying until it was empty.

Looks like it is best to get some quotes on having it done though.

I am not sure about that "will turn on but not turn off" thing. I could be wrong on this, but I was under the impression these kits had a sprayer that can turn on and turn off again, but you can't quit spraying for a day or two and then resume spraying again. In other words, you can stop spraying and move to a different area and continue spraying again, but you can't stop spraying for the day and then continue spraying again tomorrow. The hose and the gun will get clogged up and it won't work anymore. At least that is the way I understand it to be. But again, I could be wrong, I am not certain of that.

 

[ChevyIINova]

I had open cell spray foam done in my 40x50. LOVE it. I kept it at 62 to 65 degrees with only 20k btu. Even without heat I never saw below 48 degrees. It's not cheap but it's a one time expense that I believe will continue to return savings over the life of the building.....

 

[theoldwizard1]

Taking this discussion sideways ...

Has anyone used "wet" celluose insulation in walls. Basically, it is ground up newspaper (or other cellulose products) mixed with fire retardant (and other chemicals ?) that is sprayed into stud cavities. The excess (beyond the studs) is scrapped off and immediately reused. It does not permanently stick to the wall like foam. After a 2 -3 drying period, the drywall (I would use mold resistant drywall) actually holds it in.

This is the same product as dry cellulose that is blown in to attics with a bit of moisture to make it stick until you get drywall or vapor barrier up.

I have a friend who does energy audits who recommends it. While it does not seal exterior cracks like foam does, but it give to a similar R value, is easy to install (only a dust mask and safety glasses are required) and there is very little waste.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcSCsCp9sCQ

Definitely cheaper than foam.

 

[brittmer]

Taking this discussion sideways ...

Has anyone used "wet" celluose insulation in walls. Basically, it is ground up newspaper (or other cellulose products) mixed with fire retardant (and other chemicals ?) that is sprayed into stud cavities. The excess (beyond the studs) is scrapped off and immediately reused. It does not permanently stick to the wall like foam. After a 2 -3 drying period, the drywall (I would use mold resistant drywall) actually holds it in.

This is the same product as dry cellulose that is blown in to attics with a bit of moisture to make it stick until you get drywall or vapor barrier up.

I have a friend who does energy audits who recommends it. While it does not seal exterior cracks like foam does, but it give to a similar R value, is easy to install (only a dust mask and safety glasses are required) and there is very little waste.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcSCsCp9sCQ

Definitely cheaper than foam.

I am building a house in AZ and the "wet" celluose is what the builder uses because it is much more energy effecient and does not settle like the "dry" method. At least that is what I have been told.