Checkerboard design with epoxy?
- Thread starter ml504
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spongerich
Well-known member
I see a couple of cases of masking tape in your future...
I've done it with marine enamel on a small porch floor (maybe 10X10), and spongerich is right about a case of masking tape. At first you might think oh i just tape out all the squares for black, do them, retape for white (or whatever) and bingo, but think about it and you'll see MUCH more taping than that is required. Then there is the problem of lifting the tape at just the right time. I think doing epoxy this way might be just possible though. But a bear.
It is possible, but it is a ton of work and hard to get perfect. You will probably want to prime the floor first. Then after taping, go around and burnish the edge of the tape (rub back and forth to heat the adhesive and get a good seal). When you apply the paint, paint from the tape in, not rolling out towards the tape, which can force material to bleed under the edge. I have heard that some guys run a thin coat of chapstick about 1/16" over the edge of the tape to get a good seal, but have never done that myself. Last but not least pull your tape when the material is still wet!
Hammerdown
Well-known member
IMHO- It is easier to do a checkerboard when you paint the entire floor white first and then tape off the squares. Find the center points of each wall and mark it off. Mark the size of the squares you want along the wall starting from the centerpoint. Tape off on both sides of the mark side by side. Cut away and remove the tape from the inside of the squares you want to be black. Paint. Removing the tape carefully- some "schools" say while its still wet so it hasn't had time to leach under the tape. Do this if there is a solid edge and the paint/coating you're using will not run. Some say let it dry to take free and pull it at a 45* slowing and scoring it with a razor knife where needed. Either way I'd reserve small amounts for the invariable touch ups that may be needed. Cover the entire area in a clear coat for an easy transition between the colors.
I find this to be the easiest way. Some people tape off and paint individual squares.
I find less bleed and sharper edges if you are coating one color over the next. 
Good luck with the project! It is a lot of work, you should have a helper, and use a high quality low tack painters masking tape, but the results are well worth the effort!
I find this to be the easiest way. Some people tape off and paint individual squares.
I find less bleed and sharper edges if you are coating one color over the next. Good luck with the project! It is a lot of work, you should have a helper, and use a high quality low tack painters masking tape, but the results are well worth the effort!
I agree with hammerdown, it is easiest if you paint the entire floor white first, then tape off the squares for the black.
It can be tricky to get the tape up at the proper time. Not a project we usually recommend for beginners.
It can be tricky to get the tape up at the proper time. Not a project we usually recommend for beginners.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
I wrote a post about it not too long ago....search feature helps
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81119&highlight=checkered+board
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81119&highlight=checkered+board
Notch1988
Well-known member
What about doing the white epoxy as mentioned and then getting black vinyl cut decals to make the pattern and clear over top of that?
SpeedwayRyan
Active member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2011
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- 44
I came here to post this same idea. Still a lot of work (so is taping off squares) but you'd be sure to get nice crisp edges this way. If you bought a roll of vinyl and used the width of the roll to determine the size of your squares, you'd just have to cut in one direction with an x-acto and a straightedge -- no need to have them plotter cut at a sign shop that way. Would just need some reusable transfer tape (clear would make it easy to line up correctly) and a squeegee.
Asgrayasitgets
New member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2011
- Messages
- 1
we just did a checkered floor for a client just a few months ago.
shot blasted the first day and repaired the cracks,
second day was with three of us taping off all squares (laying down tape lines and then cutting them at the 2ft mark to mask off the next square) then cutting in the black and rolling the squares. removed the tape and cleaned up any bleed lines.
third day was laying down vinyl car tape (red) and applying clear coat with grit.
also one point i would make is that if you do the base with white it will really show the dirt and such. i mixed a grey and white together to get a light grey and with the black down it looks like the other colour is white.
floor was approx 600sqft with 2ft squares.
you can also see the process here:
http://www.paintersenterprise.com/concretecoatings.html
shot blasted the first day and repaired the cracks,
second day was with three of us taping off all squares (laying down tape lines and then cutting them at the 2ft mark to mask off the next square) then cutting in the black and rolling the squares. removed the tape and cleaned up any bleed lines.
third day was laying down vinyl car tape (red) and applying clear coat with grit.
also one point i would make is that if you do the base with white it will really show the dirt and such. i mixed a grey and white together to get a light grey and with the black down it looks like the other colour is white.
floor was approx 600sqft with 2ft squares.
you can also see the process here:
http://www.paintersenterprise.com/concretecoatings.html