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checkerboard floor,30x54

1953belair

Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
5
i am in the process of building my shop.almost done with it and i would realy like to do the checkerboard floor maybe 3 foot squares,anyways i know alot of ppl are using the vct tiles or armstrong tiles but i cant find any big tiles,i would like to have aleast 2 foot squares and all that i found are 1foot...i thank it would be cheaper to paint it on too,i have a bunch of industrail automotive paint.would that stick to the concrete if i put some kind of etcher or primer down? and then maybe put a clear epoxy over the black and white.any ideas?
 
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rugerlady

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
1,378
Location
Michigan
If you want to go with the paint you have, I would etch the concrete ( diamond grinder or muriatic acid). The next step would be to paint the entire floor white, when that sets up, you can tape off your squares for the black. Then I would top it off with a coat of polyurea.
 

Grumpy365

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
623
Location
Brazoria County Texas
I painted them on the garage floor at my old house.

I painted the whole floor white and went back and taped off the squares.

The bad part is you have to go back and retape(because the tape width prevents it from being connected tiles otherwise. It took a WHILE but looked really good until I started using the garage like a garage.
 

Hammerdown

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
596
Location
The Motor City
I have done a checkerboard pattern before and it can be a pain in the but! It takes more time and more patience, and really needs a second person to help lay out the tape correctly. I hope this helps.
Paint the entire area white first. Since white is so light, it may take multiple coats to achieve the right shade (depending on the product you use.) Then use a "double tape technique" to achieve the pattern. This is two pieces of tape laid side by side next to the center line of each sqaure.
Begin by locating the center point of the front, rear and side walls then marking that point accurately. Measure the preferred checker size dimension, in your case a three foot length for a 3’x3’ along each wall, marking from the center points and continue marking from both sides of the center point along the entire length of each wall. Begin taping your first set of two parallel lengths of masking tape tightly on either side of the markings at the walls and run your masking tape, holding one end to the floor and unrolling the elevated tape across the floor to the point directly opposite. Press the tape firmly into position. Continue this for each point until completed. To get a sharp corner, trim with a sharp razor knife. Cut away the tape from the inside of every other square and paint with black. I would recoomend a clear top coat as well. It takes time and effort, but this way the squares turn out well and have sharp edges.

A couple of things to consider- Use a high quality low tack masking tape- the job can be ruined by the wrong/cheap tape. CAREFULLY remove the tape! Pull at a 45* angle and do it slowly, keeping the razor knife on hand to score any stubborn tape. Reserve some of each color of the material for any touch ups, which seem to always be needed when removing tape, as some material may come up. Be patient! Low and slow and steady as she goes!:thumbup: Good Luck!
 
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ParAsh

Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
8
i am in the process of building my shop.almost done with it and i would realy like to do the checkerboard floor maybe 3 foot squares,anyways i know alot of ppl are using the vct tiles or armstrong tiles but i cant find any big tiles,i would like to have aleast 2 foot squares and all that i found are 1foot...i thank it would be cheaper to paint it on too,i have a bunch of industrail automotive paint.would that stick to the concrete if i put some kind of etcher or primer down? and then maybe put a clear epoxy over the black and white.any ideas?

BLT has 2' self stick tiles that come in black and white. Do a google search, for BLT self stick tiles and you should come up with some places that you can get it.
 

t92780

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Messages
5
I did four Black and four Grey tiles in checkered pattern - bought when I got my Ulti-MATE PRO cabinets, called Ulti-MATE Flooring, but from what I learned, their flooring, Gladiator flooring, etc all come from the same manufacturer. Website company gave me a better deal if I bought Ulti-MATE brand. I might add their Red tile as a border, give it a snazzier look.

I like it so far, needed to leave about a 1/2" space for tile expanding in high heat situations.
 

Kingham

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 18, 2006
Messages
47
Location
Austin Texas
We've done a few with painting epoxy squares..

I start with a base color. usually lighter of the two colors and lay that down.
and let it down then determine my checkerboard color layout.

I always like having a border around the define the area.. it also helps to even out the size of the squares.

I measure the garage and determine how big I want the squares from there I adjust the size of the squares to fit evenly

I use a snap line to mark my lines then tape inside the lines of the "base" color. I use a razor blade to make sure my tape lines are square and perfect.
I also mark out all blocks that are not to be painted with tape.

lay the second color down with small 6" foam rollers

I remove the tape while still wet or when the epoxy starts going off.

after it drys.. I'll fix any blems and clear coat w/polyurethane. after 1300 plus epoxy floor jobs.. I really enjoy doing something different like these jobs.

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MiDiablo

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
11
Location
Brooksville, FL
Ken, that looks like it would have been a bear to do all that taping & painting; but the result came out great!

Off topic, but primetime1267 and I are from the same local forum here in the Tampa Bay Area... TampaRacing.com! Good to see you over here PT!
 
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