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Checkering file. Has anyone used one?

bagged89s10

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Has anyone used a checkering file? I have a Parker vise I bought off eBay and the jaws are parallel but almost smooth. I'm trying to find a way to file some grooves back into them. They are made of somewhat smooth metal. I don't have a milling machine so I was looking for different options. Then I just saw these checkering files while browsing the net. I'm looking for some feedback if anyone has experience using these types of files to cut grooves in flat surfaces.

Thanks

187003.jpg

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/187003/grobet-6-checkering-file-20-lines-per-inch


~Veeps
 
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Kevin54

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Bagged......if you can't get the diamonds milled into the jaws, hit me up. I can mill them in for you.
 
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bagged89s10

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Bagged......if you can't get the diamonds milled into the jaws, hit me up. I can mill them in for you.


Thanks Kevin. I tried a triangle file on one of my vise jaws and it works but only if I can fit the file in groove to line it up. I think I'm going to try one of these checkering files for my more smooth worn vise jaws.


~Veeps
 

Rickenbackerman

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I recheckered my Parker 805 jaws with a triangle file. Took a couple hours a day for about three days. My hands were killing me.
 
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bagged89s10

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I recheckered my Parker 805 jaws with a triangle file. Took a couple hours a day for about three days. My hands were killing me.


Yeah I also have an Oswego vise that the jaws are worn unevenly and I need to belt sand back to parallel and then rechecker. I can feel my arms going numb just thinking about it. But playing with metal is worth it.

This is Parker vise with an almost completely smooth jaw surface. I don't have a picture of the jaws, but I can't index a triangle file to correctly rechecker it. Hopefully the checkering file works.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429816906.114065.jpg

Then these are the jaws on the Oswego that I am going to attempt to grind back to parallel and rechecker.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429817121.685670.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429817138.078019.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429817202.623684.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429817400.399986.jpg


~Veeps
 
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ssdave

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The checkering file is just like using a triangle file, just more lines cut at a time. If a triangle file won't work, a checkering one won't either. In fact, the extra width might make it harder to use.

The technique is to use a triangular file to cut one groove at the edge of where you are going to checker. Then, use the checkering file, 2 lines only. One line in the groove you cut, and one cutting fresh. When that gets cut down a bit, then move over another groove, so one guiding, one part cut, one fresh. When you get the new one part cut, then move over two grooves. The file uses the partially filed grooves to guide on. You can't just start fresh with the whole width of the file. You add grooves until about 1/3 to 1/2 of the file is cutting fresh, and the rest is guiding and cleaning up prior cuts.

Properly used, they do a good job and speed up the production somewhat. They are better at making a uniform job than at speeding up the production, though. The smaller amount that you cut at one time with them, the faster they cut. If you try to hog the cut too much by cutting too many fresh lines, they get real slow. The only time you cut with more than half the file is when you're doing final cleanup, you can overlap about 2/3 to 3/4, and file a few strokes, then move over a random amount, do it again. Repeat until done, and do additional passes, paying attention to the final result, until you get uniformity. That last process of staggering widths helps the uniformity of the final diamonds.

dave
 
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bagged89s10

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The checkering file is just like using a triangle file, just more lines cut at a time. If a triangle file won't work, a checkering one won't either. In fact, the extra width might make it harder to use.

The technique is to use a triangular file to cut one groove at the edge of where you are going to checker. Then, use the checkering file, 2 lines only. One line in the groove you cut, and one cutting fresh. When that gets cut down a bit, then move over another groove, so one guiding, one part cut, one fresh. When you get the new one part cut, then move over two grooves. The file uses the partially filed grooves to guide on. You can't just start fresh with the whole width of the file. You add grooves until about 1/3 to 1/2 of the file is cutting fresh, and the rest is guiding and cleaning up prior cuts.

Properly used, they do a good job and speed up the production somewhat. They are better at making a uniform job than at speeding up the production, though. The smaller amount that you cut at one time with them, the faster they cut. If you try to hog the cut too much by cutting too many fresh lines, they get real slow. The only time you cut with more than half the file is when you're doing final cleanup, you can overlap about 2/3 to 3/4, and file a few strokes, then move over a random amount, do it again. Repeat until done, and do additional passes, paying attention to the final result, until you get uniformity. That last process of staggering widths helps the uniformity of the final diamonds.

dave


I'm was planning to clamp on a jig to start the first pass with the triangle file. Then go to the checkering file. Yes I know I can't just use the whole file to make the grooves all at once. I feel I will have better control and uniformity of the groove spacing with the checkering file then with a triangle file.

Thanks for the insight


~Veeps
 

Dennis Leigh Henry

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Someone who has a metal shaper and the requisite skill can do this too.. I made some for the metal/machine shop when I was in high school. Cool how you can use a really old tool to make really interesting things like this with a little ingenuity.
 

F124C

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Ireland
The checkering file is just like using a triangle file, just more lines cut at a time. If a triangle file won't work, a checkering one won't either. In fact, the extra width might make it harder to use.

The technique is to use a triangular file to cut one groove at the edge of where you are going to checker. Then, use the checkering file, 2 lines only. One line in the groove you cut, and one cutting fresh. When that gets cut down a bit, then move over another groove, so one guiding, one part cut, one fresh. When you get the new one part cut, then move over two grooves. The file uses the partially filed grooves to guide on. You can't just start fresh with the whole width of the file. You add grooves until about 1/3 to 1/2 of the file is cutting fresh, and the rest is guiding and cleaning up prior cuts.

Properly used, they do a good job and speed up the production somewhat. They are better at making a uniform job than at speeding up the production, though. The smaller amount that you cut at one time with them, the faster they cut. If you try to hog the cut too much by cutting too many fresh lines, they get real slow. The only time you cut with more than half the file is when you're doing final cleanup, you can overlap about 2/3 to 3/4, and file a few strokes, then move over a random amount, do it again. Repeat until done, and do additional passes, paying attention to the final result, until you get uniformity. That last process of staggering widths helps the uniformity of the final diamonds.

dave

Hadn't heard of Checkering files in this part of the world.
Thanks for explaining their use.

Al.
 
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