I guess I've lived an uncommon life.
It's nothing like a garage pit... 220 Volt outlets are indeed addressed.
If the TR is truly a safety requirement the NEC should require a tamper proof cover for the 220 Volt exposed outlets thus all outlets are TR..... or require them nowhere.
It's just plain stupid the way NEC addresses this now. They are consistent in their inconsistencies.
Here's my TR GFCI 20 amp 110 Volt duplex outlet and the wide open non GFCI 50 amp 220 Volt welder outlet... literal within inches of each other.
Other than saying a government regulation requires it, how can any sane person say this is logical?
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Lake - was your electrical inspected? No way should that unprotected yellow Romex running across your girt "shelf" be considered protected such that it is acceptable.
Heck, you are setting equipment right on it...
I'm not a stickler and think vertical runs in stud spaces of unfinished places should be ok, but running across working surfaces goes too far imo.
Yep.. passed inspection.
It's not really a work surface, it's the girt for the wainscotting, but your point is valid.
Next time I'm in the shop I'll run a 1 x 6 above it to set my radio on. Being right inside the man door.. it's a convenient spot.
Thanks for your concern.![]()

You know how it is John... if it ain't moving, EVERY horizontal surface is...a work surface... sooner or later.
....just dado a groove in your board and install on top..?
Well said.
Original intent was to insulate the walls and add steel sheathing, inside. But the weather here is pretty awesome... what I've learned is the solar advantage of the sun shining on this south facing wall external steel is advantageous in cooler months.
Sage advice sir. So it shall be done. Grandpa Henry's RAS will be glad to help make this happen.
Thanks![]()

Hey - while you are at it - why not make that board a couple inches wider ?
Luxury!
what altitude are you at ? I was thinking it would be colder than it seems to be there. Some kind of valley effect ?
If you buy the cheapest outlets, the TR part needs to "break in" before they work acceptably. The more expensive ones work smoothly right out of the box. Since I'm only installing them 1-2 at a time, I have no problem with the few extra bucks.