Putting a woodstove in my new shop but not sure about the chimney for it. I know I'm going to run it through the roof but not sure of what pipe to use. I planed on just running black pipe but I've been reading on here and people talk about double/triple walled. What's the difference and do I have to run it or is my black pipe sufficient?.
Chimney pipe help?
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JohnKal
Well-known member
Most chimney pipe is double wall. I believe its called " all fuel" pipe. I just installed one in my garage. There's a ton of info if you google it. It's expensive, but you can save a boat load doing it yourself. Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Good luck.
sms1974
Well-known member
Wood burners require a class A pipe... Most of what i see having a class A rating is triple wall stainless and it's quite pricy...
From the stove to the ceiling box support you can use black single wall pipe. From the top end of the ceiling support box through the roof/attic etc most use triple walled because it allows for a 2" clearance to combustibles. This pic is a ceiling support box.
A few things I've learned during my install research;
1. Black pipe is much cheaper but cools down quicker = possible increase in creosote build up= cleaning more often.
2. double/triple pipe is insulated= hotter pipe temps= better draw.
3. Black pipe will radiate heat into the shop more.
A few things I've learned during my install research;
1. Black pipe is much cheaper but cools down quicker = possible increase in creosote build up= cleaning more often.
2. double/triple pipe is insulated= hotter pipe temps= better draw.
3. Black pipe will radiate heat into the shop more.
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Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Chimney and flue pipe are brand specific. You must use matched components. Go HERE for lots of good information. Probably two of the better known chimney and flue systems are Dura Vent and Selkirk. If you are in Canada, they have special rules and different pipe.
Also look at THIS brief installation guide.
The Northline Express site is a very good resource. I had to buy a couple of flue pipe sections for my used oil heater installation, beyond what was provided with it. I was able to match the brand and series of pipe from Northline Express.
Charles
Also look at THIS brief installation guide.
The Northline Express site is a very good resource. I had to buy a couple of flue pipe sections for my used oil heater installation, beyond what was provided with it. I was able to match the brand and series of pipe from Northline Express.
Charles
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Check the installation guide for clearance between the stove an single wall pipe and combustible surfaces. Even when you meet the minimum requirements the surface behind will be very very warm. If you are concerned, light gauge metal with several inches of air on both sides is an excellent heat shield.
I suggest using the double wall. It has a good warranty, is stainless interior and performance is better. Pricey, but the right tool for the job. As well once you pass through a wall or ceiling you have to go to a UL103HT rated pipe. The UL103 pipe is L vent and approved for oil. the 103 was found to be inadequate for wood and coal and the 103HT was created. I'm doing my new chimney in Selkirk Ultra-temp.
Highbeam
Well-known member
I think we're all saying the same thing but I've done a few with permits and the code says you may use black stove pipe from the appliance to the first pentration of a wall or ceiling at which point you must transition to class A (double wall insulated, we don't use triple wall) pipe which is not always stainless steel from that point to the cap.
The black stove pipe is available in single wall (18" clearance) and double wall (6" clearance). The double wall is much more expensive but better performance and since it is stainless steel on the inside it lasts much longer than regular steel single wall.
The class A is very expensive and usually glossy stainless steel but you can buy cheaper class A rated with a galvanized steel exterior. 2" clearance and that means clearance, no insulation or other junk within 2".
Here's mine. 10 feet of single wall, ceiling box, 9 feet of class A to cap.
The black stove pipe is available in single wall (18" clearance) and double wall (6" clearance). The double wall is much more expensive but better performance and since it is stainless steel on the inside it lasts much longer than regular steel single wall.
The class A is very expensive and usually glossy stainless steel but you can buy cheaper class A rated with a galvanized steel exterior. 2" clearance and that means clearance, no insulation or other junk within 2".
Here's mine. 10 feet of single wall, ceiling box, 9 feet of class A to cap.
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plott hound
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if you have a steel roof heres a word from the wise,dont go through it!buy a TEE and go through as wall.if you want to know why not,drive around and look at other peoples chimney going through steel roofs.95% will be gooped up with black **** trying to stop the leaks.
A deck-tite type flashing used with the proper screws and sealant will last a long time and not leak, the people using a flashing designed for a shingle roof on a steel roof will always have problems.
This type will work on a steel roof.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16187
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
I have never used the Dek Tite flashing system, but clearly, it is well designed and apparently works like it is intended to.
If you go thru the roof, use the Dek Tite brand and you will probably be way ahead of the game.
NOTE THE SPELLING, IF YOU USE GOOGLE........ DEK TITE
Here is the manufacturers page for the flashing system.... They also make a lot of other neat stuff for construction, mostly unique fastening systems for roofs, and such.
http://ejot-usa.com/products/fasten...construction/deks-metal-roof-flashing-systems
Charles
Ok so I'm going to run black pipe to the ceiling, class a thru roof, use a rubber seal like noted above, than a cap on the outside to keep birds out. Do you use anything to keep the pipe together or does it hold itself?
smashingchuck
Member
horizontal chimneys have a tendency to build up creosote and catch fire... be careful out there.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Highbeam - I notice from your picture you have "cement board" behind the stove and I assume all the way up, correct ? Are you using single wall pipe up to the ceiling transition ?
I would ! You are trying to heat the interior.
Highbeam
Well-known member
Cement board all the way up but not required, just a little safer. Yes single wall but the stove is the heater. Double wall would cost a lot more.
Highbeam
Well-known member
Not anymore. Double wall stove pipe pushes together and you add screws to secure it. Same as single wall.
Class a is threaded on each end. No screws.
I was talking the chimney, not the vent connector. Yes, double wall vent connector uses short screws. Make sure you do not penetrate the inner liner. There are different types of Class A. Dura-vents Dura-Plus is triple wall and uses screws. The double wall class A does have a twist lock but requires the use of the locking bands for security purposes.
Just wondering how much clearance you have to the back wall?
Highbeam
Well-known member
There are no locking bands required. I buy all simpson stuff, duravent, no locking bands. RTFM.
Highbeam
Well-known member
There is right at 19" between the single wall pipe and the face of the studs behind the cement board. The studs are the first combustible surface so I am over by 1".
The stove itself is of course closer to the back wall but not by much and there is a blower bolted onto the back that hangs out in that space. You can't easily walk behind the stove.
TractorJeff
Well-known member
Used to be you could get black in two thickness. Any more all I ever see available is one thickness at almost all stores. I bought ten feet initially, now every couple of years I replace the one closest to the stove. For the house, I burn 24-7 for 4 to 5 months every year. Upstairs? Everything is triple wall!
I bought my last two pices at the local True Value hardware store. Do you have a TSC locally or even Menard's carries single wall black pipe.
I picked up (5) 24"x8" pieces at Lowes for $12.95 each. Here's my install and I still want to add a second wall. The ceiling hole was already there from the furnace I removed and I wanted the stove as far away from the wall as possible so the pipe angle is goofy.
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Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
My 6" Duravent on my used oil furnace twist locks and then you drive a couple of very short self drilling screws to lock them.
Charles
Ironhorse74
MEMBER EMERITUS
I have never used the Dek Tite flashing system, but clearly, it is well designed and apparently works like it is intended to.
If you go thru the roof, use the Dek Tite brand and you will probably be way ahead of the game.
NOTE THE SPELLING, IF YOU USE GOOGLE........ DEK TITE
Here is the manufacturers page for the flashing system.... They also make a lot of other neat stuff for construction, mostly unique fastening systems for roofs, and such.
http://ejot-usa.com/products/fasten...construction/deks-metal-roof-flashing-systems
Charles
Hi Charles
I am in the hearth business and pretty **** about playing by the rules. There are flashings made for class A chimney that look like those Dek-tite flashings. They do however have to be UL (Warnock-Hershey) Listed for the chimney that is being used. I couldn't find a listing for any class A chimney with those jacks. All of the ones like that I have seen have been red in color. High temp? They also covered a roof brace.
Just my .02
Brad
So let me get clear on a few things. I can run black pipe up to the ceiling, than I run a triple wall in the attic with 6" distance around it away from insulation. What do I run through the roof? Is there something I need to do at the ceiling where the drywall and pipe meet?
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If you follow this link to Northern Tool,
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200316635_200316635
It shows a through the ceiling kit, along with a picture of an install by somebody that has bought the kit. It appears the drywall goes right up to the adapter kit or or atleast is covered by the trim of the kit.
Maybe there's more reading at their site.
http://www.duravent.com/index.aspx
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200316635_200316635
It shows a through the ceiling kit, along with a picture of an install by somebody that has bought the kit. It appears the drywall goes right up to the adapter kit or or atleast is covered by the trim of the kit.
Maybe there's more reading at their site.
http://www.duravent.com/index.aspx
But it's cheaper then burning down your shop.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
While I did not find any mention of UL listings, I did find this............. "Available in Black and Grey EPDM or Red Silicone
EPDM will withstand constant temperatures at the roofline of -50°C (-58°F) to 115°C (239°F) and up to 150°C (302°F) intermittently
Red Silicone will withstand constant temperatures at the roofline of -50°C (-58°F) to 200°C (392°F) and up to 250°C (482°F) intermittently"
Charles
I was just linking that kit as a reference on how the drywall meets the pipe, your question.
But as 930Dreamer mentioned, it's cheaper than burning down your shop. If you improperly install your stove/chimney and have a fire due to this issue, your insurance company may elect not to pay a claim due to negligence.
Also keep in mind, what you're buying is an investment, not just in shop safety but a heating investment. Every year that you use that wood stove to heat your shop, it's giving you a return on your investment.
True but being that I have a metal roof I can't use most those parts. I know there's cheaper ways than buying that kit and wasting money on parts I won't use when I can build something for less.
Other then mentioning in one post about using that rubber seal, you never mentioned having a metal roof.
That kinda makes it hard for use to give advice when we don't have all the information.
I didn't mention it but also didn't think it made a difference other than exterior wise, which is why I was going to use the rubber boot thing. In the link you gave for northern tool what is the purpose of the chimney support box? Does it keep the needed distance between pipe and insulation or is it just support? I can piece it together from lowes for what parts I need just not sure what is needed?
The support box is required when going through a ceiling(i.e. in a house), it's used for clearance to combustibles and support.