Chinese Two Post Lifts, possible purchase

[Triumph1200]

Need a lift, getting too old to crawl under cars on stands. Looking for feedback from your recent experiences, the good, the bad and the ugly. Plenty of ceiling height so no need for a baseplate model. Heaviest thing I'll lift is a Toyota Tundra (6000lbs). Brands and models would be appreciated. I'd like a new Rotary or Bendpack but the piggy bank would squeal. TIA

 

[silvermonte]

My local lift installer has suggested Forward lifts. Chinese made but meets all american safety standards, its what they install in most home garage's that dont see the 24/7 use that a professional shop would. Not as cheap as full blown chinese lifts but your safety is worth something.

 

[WildBill]

Get ready for everybody to tell you that you will die if you don't spend $12k on one.

I've been really happy with my APlus lift. They have warehouses all over, usually free shipping, and headquarters in WA since 2013. They were really nice to deal with and the lift has worked great for two years so far. I called a bunch and spoke to helpful people every time. I got the 10k ALI certified two post for about $3k, now its more but they have many less expensive options. I know the ALI certification isn't a guarantee on quality but I figure it helps, and I never come close to the 10k rating.

Car Lifts

Car Lifts, Auto Lift, Auto Hoists, Truck Hoists, 2-Post Car Lift, 4-Post Car Lift, Scissor Lift

apluslift.com

ALI Certified Falcon 10,000LB 2-Post Overhead Single Release Direct Drive Car Lift with 3 Year Warranty

All 2-Post Car Lifts ALI Gold Label Certified: Meets the industry’s highest safety benchmarks, ensuring your equipment is fully compliant with commercial insurance and OSHA-based requirements. Industry leading 3 YEAR WARRANTY (a $499 value!) Three Sets of Truck Adapters (High Extension) Included...

apluslift.com

 

[AC-WC]

I don't think my Triumph 7000 lift is exactly what you're looking for but I've been very happy with it. Whatever you get you won't regret it for saving your back.
Mine has saved me half my total investment in 3 yrs just in labor. That's including the major building mods I had to do of going to a cathedral style ceiling for clearance, updated door tracks and cutting the old concrete for the new base. I have more insulation and wall panels to finish.

 

[gizardlizard]

I agree with Wild Bill. Be sure whatever lift you get, has a gold ALI sticker on it. Then you will know the lift was tested at 150% of its maximum rated load, cycled and checked structurally. Is it then equal to a Rotary for example? No, but it’s far better and safer than a non rated lift.

 

[Cheep]

Lift installers usually have good solid take out lifts. You can get a decent name brand lift that way.

 

[finn]

Lift installers usually have good solid take out lifts. You can get a decent name brand lift that way.

Maybe in your area, but I looked for years for the elusive take out lift in good condition at a reasonable price.

All I came up with was rusty obsolete lifts that needed complete rebuilding or were being replaced because parts were NLA, with the occasional sketchy, light duty import storage lift that might suffice for a VW Beetle, but not much more.

 

[Cheep]

I have 4 lifts, 2 are Rotary #7500 that were removed from a MBZ dealer that was moving, been using them daily for years now.

 

[denis4x4]

I bought a US made Backyard Buddy four post lift 26 years ago. Was able to replace the pullys, shafts and cables for $1300 a couple of months ago. Based on my experience, I would be hesitant in buying an off brand with no assurance of getting the correct replacement parts

 

[finn]

I bought a US made Backyard Buddy four post lift 26 years ago. Was able to replace the pullys, shafts and cables for $1300 a couple of months ago. Based on my experience, I would be hesitant in buying an off brand with no assurance of getting the correct replacement parts

In 26 years I’l be 100, and replacing parts on my lifts won’t be high on my list of things to do.

Never know for sure, though.

 

[kutakm]

Good evening, I just picked up a XK 1150 3x2 over head two post lift. Went down to their warehouse in McKinny, TX. Saved a bunch of money going that route, we installed it yesterday pretty straight forward, tried using a tractor to raise up the collumns kind of a hasle after getting one up we decided to just man handle the other one it was alot faster and not too bad. the lift is built solid, running the cables the instructions were kind of lame but use common sense and it went smoothly. I have a buddy coming over tomorrow he will let me know what i need to run the electricity and I plan in putting a 120v outlet on both collumns. I did get lucky at Tractor Supply and was able to get hyd oil for 12 bucks for a 2 gallon jug, the shelf said $24, when the cashier scanned it I got them for half price, that was a good day. Ill post more with pics when we get it totally done

 

[Jetfixr320]

I bought a certified Atlas. https://www.atlasautoequipment.com/products/ateap-pvl10-fpd/

 

[sjvicker]

Get ready for everybody to tell you that you will die if you don't spend $12k on one.

I've been really happy with my APlus lift. They have warehouses all over, usually free shipping, and headquarters in WA since 2013. They were really nice to deal with and the lift has worked great for two years so far. I called a bunch and spoke to helpful people every time. I got the 10k ALI certified two post for about $3k, now its more but they have many less expensive options. I know the ALI certification isn't a guarantee on quality but I figure it helps, and I never come close to the 10k rating.

Car Lifts

Car Lifts, Auto Lift, Auto Hoists, Truck Hoists, 2-Post Car Lift, 4-Post Car Lift, Scissor Lift

apluslift.com

ALI Certified Falcon 10,000LB 2-Post Overhead Single Release Direct Drive Car Lift with 3 Year Warranty

All 2-Post Car Lifts ALI Gold Label Certified: Meets the industry’s highest safety benchmarks, ensuring your equipment is fully compliant with commercial insurance and OSHA-based requirements. Industry leading 3 YEAR WARRANTY (a $499 value!) Three Sets of Truck Adapters (High Extension) Included...

apluslift.com

Because of this post, I now own an APlus lift HW-10ASY. I picked it up at their Oregon warehouse (for... reasons) vs getting it from Tacoma.

The build quality seems pretty good but I was extremely disappointed in the installation directions. They are way too high level, seem to be photocopied a few too many times and in some cases the steps dont appear to be for the lift I purchased (# of anchor bolts). On top of that, it seems the longer hose and lock cable are longer to accommodate a different model of lift.

It's a cheap lift so I expect a few quirks but I've seriously never seen install instructions for anything that were this bad. If they spent 1 day's worth of work and updated them it would be a night and day difference. At least most parts are kind of poke-yoked so you can logic your way through the install.

 

[kutakm]

Great news, my electrician came by today and connected all the electrical on the lift. It was pretty straight forward watching him made it seem easy. the cut off switch I wasn't sure how to connect it but that was ran in series thru the up button, we tested it whioe the lift was operating and it shut off like it should.
really happy with it I did have a oopso, didn't check all the hydraulic fitting and one of the fitting on the bottom of the cylinder started to leak, you would believe how much fluid leakes in a matter of seconds (it's funny now).
We lifted his F150 first he was as anxous as i was he volunteered his truck first, I told him I'm not responsible. The lift didn't hesitate and was pretty solid. I will be out of the net for a week, doing a zero tech week to get away from it all kind of deal. when I get back were putting his 1 ton on the lift and see what happens, till then enjoy your week

 

[dante2]

Good idea to wire in a kill switch close by. Switches can fail at the most inopportune time. If your fuse box is 5' away then a kill switch isn't really necessary.

 

[djbmw]

Good idea to wire in a kill switch close by. Switches can fail at the most inopportune time. If your fuse box is 5' away then a kill switch isn't really necessary.

A kill switch for a lift?! Im failing to see the use case.

The only time the hydraulic motor is in use, is while your finger is pressing the button. I suppose if someone drove into one of the columns and ripped the wiring out of it.. that you could use a kill switch.... but that whole area would be a destroyed mess and you'd be better off going to the breaker (if it didnt already trip)

 

[dante2]

A kill switch for a lift?! Im failing to see the use case.

The only time the hydraulic motor is in use, is while your finger is pressing the button. I suppose if someone drove into one of the columns and ripped the wiring out of it.. that you could use a kill switch.... but that whole area would be a destroyed mess and you'd be better off going to the breaker (if it didnt already trip)

What happens when the switch fails and stays open? My electrical box is 35' away and I don't always have my phone in my hand while lifting a vehicle.

 

[djbmw]

What happens when the switch fails and stays open? My electrical box is 35' away and I don't always have my phone in my hand while lifting a vehicle.

Most momentary switches have a natural failure mode of Open (unless they were designed to be closed). For lifts specifically, they are designed to fail open (not engaged). But, lets assume you replace the switch with a toggle and let the lift go all the way to the top. With a clear floor design the vehicle will hit the top limit switch, and turn off the pump (even though the toggle is still on). With a baseplate your vehicle will go all the way up before the hydraulic fluid starts going through the bypass (motor is still running, but lift has reached max height and is stopped by the steel blocks in the top of the columns - the fluid is now going through the bypass until you throw the breaker).

But,... it would be more likely that a plane crashes into my house before any of that happened.

 

[dante2]

Most momentary switches have a natural failure mode of Open (unless they were designed to be closed). For lifts specifically, they are designed to fail open (not engaged). But, lets assume you replace the switch with a toggle and let the lift go all the way to the top. With a clear floor design the vehicle will hit the top limit switch, and turn off the pump (even though the toggle is still on). With a baseplate your vehicle will go all the way up before the hydraulic fluid starts going through the bypass (motor is still running, but lift has reached max height and is stopped by the steel blocks in the top of the columns - the fluid is now going through the bypass until you throw the breaker).

But,... it would be more likely that a plane crashes into my house before any of that happened.

Ok you win. The rest of us with a kill switch are all wrong. They will be removed forth with.

 

[djbmw]

Ok you win. The rest of us with a kill switch are all wrong. They will be removed forth with.

A clear floor lift's top limit switch IS a kill switch though... so no need to install another redundant one.

 

[TurnipTruck]

The very first time I lifted a major load (80% of capacity) with my new Forward lift the cheap push button welded itself ON.
Take a look at the ampacity of your tiny uptravel limit switch and the push button and see how inadequate they are when compared to the motor Full Load Amp draw. The manufacturer gets away with the switch inadequacies because the pump use is so intermittent.

 

[ericm]

The very first time I lifted a major load (80% of capacity) with my new Forward lift the cheap push button welded itself ON.

A number of people here have reported this happening with various lifts.

 

[djbmw]

The very first time I lifted a major load (80% of capacity) with my new Forward lift the cheap push button welded itself ON.
Take a look at the ampacity of your tiny uptravel limit switch and the push button and see how inadequate they are when compared to the motor Full Load Amp draw. The manufacturer gets away with the switch inadequacies because the pump use is so intermittent.

If this happens to anyone else, press on the hydraulic release lever (the one you use to lower the car), as well as releasing your locks. This will bypass the fluid and slowly lower the car, while the hydraulic motor still runs.

Once the vehicle is at the ground, THEN walk over to the breaker and shut it off.

 

[zkdiesel]

A number of people here have reported this happening with various lifts.

It’s funny I hit the up buttons several times a day for multiple decades on my good branded lifts(I don’t even have to say the name, as I already say they are the best) and not one has ever “stuck”.

 

[gizardlizard]

Pretty sure the switch contacts need to be rated for at least 30 amps. I wired in a remote start/stop station on my lift and the 18 amp switch I used welded itself closed. I pulled the factory switch out to examine and saw it was rated at 30 amps.

 

[OX1]

Ok you win. The rest of us with a kill switch are all wrong. They will be removed forth with.

Never heard of it myself, but I guess on China stuff anything is possible.
But if you have enough clearance to go all the way up on a 4 post, that
is all that will happen (and then internal hydraulic relief valve will kick in
and/or you will reach end of hydraulic cylinder). 2 posts that have an upper
cross over bar, usually have a kill switch already.

 

[dante2]

Never heard of it myself, but I guess on China stuff anything is possible.
But if you have enough clearance to go all the way up on a 4 post, that
is all that will happen (and then internal hydraulic relief valve will kick in
and/or you will reach end of hydraulic cylinder). 2 posts that have an upper
cross over bar, usually have a kill switch already.

Talked about some in this thread. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/lift-modifications-thread-lets-see-them.347432/ Parts fail at the worst possible time and my cost was about $20 for a little piece of mind. As a secondary benefit it locks out little hands from playing with the lift.

 

[OX1]

Talked about some in this thread. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/lift-modifications-thread-lets-see-them.347432/ Parts fail at the worst possible time and my cost was about $20 for a little piece of mind. As a secondary benefit it locks out little hands from playing with the lift.

Certainly to each there own. I've often thought about going the other way.
Put in a limit switch that would raise lift until it got to a preset limit, without me having
to stand there and hold the button the whole time.

 

[mikedodge]

I've only heard about the buttons failing on here but for the cost of a disconnect switch it's worth it just in case if the lift isn't plug in or the breaker panel isn't in reach.

 

[jpaw]

I had the switch fail on a couple years old Challenger CL10V3 lift at work. Thankfully there was a disconnect or it likely would have burned up the motor by the time the breaker was found.

 

[gregs]

I had the "button" stick on my Eagle 2 post one time. I had installed a twist lock plug at the pump and was able to "unplug" it quickly. It wasnt the switch that was the problem, but the spring loaded button had bound up inside. I took it apart and cleaned up a tiny plastic burr and applied a little lube and it has been good ever since.

 

[onewheat]

I had a Bendpack switch stick on while working at a dealership. Granted, they get used a lot, but it was NOT on an inexpensive lift. I had ZERO clue where the breaker for my lift was, but the top limit switch did work in this situation.

 

[finn]

It’s funny I hit the up buttons several times a day for multiple decades on my good branded lifts(I don’t even have to say the name, as I already say they are the best) and not one has ever “stuck”.

A sample of one is not statistically signifiant. Especially if you’re talking about a sub one percent failure rate.

 

[zkdiesel]

A sample of one is not statistically signifiant. Especially if you’re talking about a sub one percent failure rate.

I’ll take the risk

 

[firebirdparts]

Mine stuck. FWIW. I still don't have a cutoff. I have a floor plate lift, and I bump the relief pretty much every time I raise it, so not too worried. I don't really do "arguing on the internet" so you fellers just carry on.

 

[finn]

I’ll take the risk

Nothing wrong with that, as long as you’re willing to accept the consequences.

I read about these failures here a couple of years before I bellied up and bought my two post lift. Seems like there was a lively discussion at the time.

I put the fused disconnect on the wall, about three or four feet behind the powerpack, (within easy reach).

I’m not sure if the BP manual suggested locating the disconnect within reach or not, but it makes sense. I think that most electrical equipment requires a disconnect within reach per code, or at least within eyesight. Hard wired compressors come to mind.