Jeez, what an unhelpful (and non-sequitur) response, Merk.
I thought that would wake you up.
All small engines need two things: fuel/air delivery in the right amounts and spark ignition shortly before piston TDC.
The first thing I would have done is completely disassemble the carb for a thorough cleaning. Carb cleaner alone won't cut it; you've got to rod out every orifice and passageway with a tip cleaner wire. If there are welsh plugs preventing you from getting to a passageway, remove the welsh plug and replace the welsh plug with a new one during reassembly.
If there's a float in the carb, you've got to check the float level. You've got to check the needle and seat for wear. All the metering needles need checking also to ensure they're strait and not bent; check to make sure they're not stepped either; if they are, you'll have to replace the mixture needle.
Get all new gaskets for the carb and manifold. After carb reassembly, check to see if you can slide a .002" feeler gage leaf in between the parting gasket surfaces; if you can, you've got a warped carb and you might as well hang it up. Warped surfaces will allow unmetered air to get sucked in and lean out the mixture too far for proper combustion.
Do you have a strong spark? I check this by spinning the crank shaft with a drill while holding the spark plug next to a good ground. You want to see a strong blue spark.
If the engine is so old that it uses points and condenser, I'd replace that with an electronic coil kit. Make sure the flywheel has the right magnets to fire the coil. You might have to get a newer flywheel to match the electronic coil. I did that one time and the mower shop sold me a used flywheel for $5.
Coil to flywheel air gap is usually .010".
Getting back to carburetors, do you know how they work? Knowing the theory behind carburetion is important if you're going to be a home small engine mechanic. After you start getting into them, you'll find that they're brilliantly simple.
A small engines like to be kept clean. If I forget and store gasoline in the fuel tank over winter, the moisture in the fuel always causes corrosion deposits in the orifices. A can of carb cleaner won't clean the deposits from the orifices; you've got to rod them out with a tip cleaner; that's the best way.
