There is practical use for the mild steel HF punch and chisel. If you watch Timken YouTube video on how to properly install ball bearing, Timken does not recommend using hard punch as it can damage the bearing. Generally you do not want to pound two hard metals together as dangerous metal chips can fly everywhere. Timken also do not recommend drift punch (brass and bronze) as they tend to shatter and can leave metal particles inside the bearing. Timken recommend mild (soft) steel punch, so don't throw away those HF punch and chisel yet.
Chisel & Punch Tutorial
- Thread starter woody 73
- Start date
Gregg33
Well-known member
Gray is another good domestic brand still in production to add to the list. As others indicated be sure to de-mushroom/ dress your punches and chisels as needed and don't use claw hammers. Use brass punches for driving in delicate objects.
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Bumping this thread to add a couple of links (hopefully useful)
Re: what is a "starter punch"?
A starter punch is a short, tapered punch.
Its easy to confuse with a alignment punch. Alignement punches are long and not designed for striking, but rather lining-up bolt holes and such. Here is a diagram from Mayhew, coutesy of member @ kjbenner
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4245196&postcount=21
Re: what is a "starter punch"?
A starter punch is a short, tapered punch.
Its easy to confuse with a alignment punch. Alignement punches are long and not designed for striking, but rather lining-up bolt holes and such. Here is a diagram from Mayhew, coutesy of member @ kjbenner
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4245196&postcount=21
Heavymetalmechanic
Well-known member
It can not be said too often, grind off those mushrooms!
I have a nice scar on my right *** cheek where I was shot, by a mushroom! I was 2 bays over from where two techs were using a large pin driver (2" drift attached to a a sledgehammer handle) and 10lb sledge to drive the wrist pin from an excavator bucket. A 1/4" flake of the mushroomed end split off the driver and punched right through my coveralls, the pair of gloves I keep in my pocket, my jeans and deep enough into the meat that I could not get it out myself. It felt like getting hit with a golf club. I did not even manage to end up with an attractive nurse at the clinic.
All humor aside, I got lucky, if it were higher up it would have caused major damage, and I shudder to think about facing the other way.
I have a nice scar on my right *** cheek where I was shot, by a mushroom! I was 2 bays over from where two techs were using a large pin driver (2" drift attached to a a sledgehammer handle) and 10lb sledge to drive the wrist pin from an excavator bucket. A 1/4" flake of the mushroomed end split off the driver and punched right through my coveralls, the pair of gloves I keep in my pocket, my jeans and deep enough into the meat that I could not get it out myself. It felt like getting hit with a golf club. I did not even manage to end up with an attractive nurse at the clinic.
All humor aside, I got lucky, if it were higher up it would have caused major damage, and I shudder to think about facing the other way.
Man! That is terrible: Ugly nurse?
Have been looking into something for aligning 3/4 and 1 ton truck chassis/suspension bolt holes and also driving out those rusted in place bolts. Was on Ajax Tools website since I need bits for my air hammer and started looking at Ajax's hand punches and drifts. In the Riggers section I came across an item called Broad Head Bull Pin http://www.ajaxtools.com/assets/1/15/DimRegular/649.jpg, can this be used in automotive applicatons like I'm looking for? These bull pins look pretty beefy compared to the hand punches/drifts. 
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
I don't see why not.
Strouty
Well-known member
I have been cleaning up my tools, I am finding tons of different punches and chisels and almost all of them have mushroomed heads. That got me thinking, as far as the brass ones, should they be ground as well, seems like they would mushroom with every strike, or am I just using the wrong hammer?
Also when removing roll pins, how does a starter punch help? It seems like the pins are always flush with the top of the hole, I would think the starter punch would try and mushroom the pin and make it harder to get out.
Also when removing roll pins, how does a starter punch help? It seems like the pins are always flush with the top of the hole, I would think the starter punch would try and mushroom the pin and make it harder to get out.
Alan Douglas
Well-known member
Pin punches can bend; the starter is less likely to.
I know this thread is a little stale but I thought I would give my opinion on snapon pin punches.
They are well they **** I would put them on the same level as drasco for about 10 times the cost. I don't know who makes them but they are too soft and mushroom on the end and need dressed often to keep a good fit.
I have had very good luck with Mayhew and proto at about half the cost.
They are well they **** I would put them on the same level as drasco for about 10 times the cost. I don't know who makes them but they are too soft and mushroom on the end and need dressed often to keep a good fit.
I have had very good luck with Mayhew and proto at about half the cost.
1950mercury
Well-known member
Mayhew makes them...
Enjoy some interesting reading from the following post:
http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=16586.0
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
I'm going to bump this due to the many new threads about what chisel set to buy.
New options and opinions are always welcome!
New options and opinions are always welcome!
methomas70
Well-known member
Just a quick +1 on garage sale punches.
I have bought Snap-On, Mac, Proto, Craftsman and even Klein.
The most I've paid is probably a buck.
And some were a quarter, especially the well-used, well-mushroomed specimens.
20 seconds on the bench grinder and they're ready to go back in service.
Cha-Ching!
I have bought Snap-On, Mac, Proto, Craftsman and even Klein.
The most I've paid is probably a buck.
And some were a quarter, especially the well-used, well-mushroomed specimens.
20 seconds on the bench grinder and they're ready to go back in service.
Cha-Ching!
twertsy
Well-known member
In the back of the older Bonney catalogs is a nice tutorial on when and how to use punches, drifts, etc. Here's a link to all the cats on my site, I know the page is in the back of the '34 Bonney catalog.
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
I dress all my brass, bronze, Berylco (with a hand file on that one), lead (vixen file), and all other soft metals.
It takes quite a while to mushroom them again.....IF you are using the right size I may add. If you're using, say a 16oz brass hammer, when you really need a 3lb, one will cause mushrooms in a hurry by extra retard strength on it.
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TailGunner3000
Well-known member
Bumping this informative thread.
Jazz1
Well-known member
all my chisels and punches I’ve bought in second hand stores/ flea mKets. All GRAY or old CRAFTSMAN. Never paid more than $2.00 for any. If you need a set right now buy a name brand set