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Chisels

bmwpower

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Who makes the best ones?
How quickly are they supposed to "wear"?

I bought the regular Craftsman set some time ago but find that the sharp end gets damaged within a few whacks of the hammer. Is this normal?

Is there something you should NOT hit with a chisel?
 
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krusty the clown

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if your using them on hardend steel they will wear quickly.it is normal to have to dress them. i used to recommend mayhew but sadly not anymore. there have been several threads about punches and chisels.
 

Rnz520

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I am a firm believer that you should not buy cheap striking tools as I've seen them send pieces off way too often that can really hurt someone.
I own a 10 piece Snap-On punch and chisel set, dont have part number currently as its at work, but Ive hit lots of metal, wood, plastic, anything with them and they are still sharp and have not come even close to chipping.
They are pricey but would reccomend them to anyone that uses them on a regular basis, because even when I broke one of the small chissels being ignorant the SO guy gave me a new one without question.
 

Flash21

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The feedback I got was that Mayhew, Snap-On (which is Mayhew's S2 line), Cornwell and Proto were at the top of the class for punches and chisels.
 

billymade

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Anyone figure out who the OEM is for Snap-On punches and chisels? Sorry, if I have asked this before and gotten answered! Dementia? LOL!
 

Stuey

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if your using them on hardend steel they will wear quickly.it is normal to have to dress them. i used to recommend mayhew but sadly not anymore. there have been several threads about punches and chisels.

How come?

I received a few Mayhew chisels at work the other day, and they seem to be alright.
 

scottg1952

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I try to get my chisels and punches "by the pound".
Most old ones have no name at all. You find out real quick which are the keepers and which you toss into the corner to be used as tool steel stock for another purpose.
I have always ground mine. Just use the side of the wheel so you dont' get a hollow grind if you want the edge to last at all.
But if you use them much, no edge will last long. Par for the coarse. Just resharpen often.
yours Scott
 

HandyManny

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What type of chisle are you using? Cold chisle or a Wood chisle?

What type of material are you striking?
 
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bmwpower

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I usually use a wood chisel on hardened bolt heads.


































Kidding.
My chisels are Craftsman. Not sure if they are "cold" chisels or what. I don't know the difference. I usually use them on whatever.
Recently used them on ceramic tile figuring tile has to be softer than metal but ended up dulling them after a little while.
I'm guessing that was a wrong move.
 
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HandyManny

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I usually use a wood chisel on hardened bolt heads.
Kidding.
My chisels are Craftsman. Not sure if they are "cold" chisels or what. I don't know the difference. I usually use them on whatever.
Recently used them on ceramic tile figuring tile has to be softer than metal but ended up dulling them after a little while.
I'm guessing that was a wrong move.


All right! Joke's on me :lol_hitti


Cold chisles should hold up just fine on ceramic and most metals, even steel. Hardened steel fasteners like certain grades of bolts will dull a cold chisle, but generally cold chisles will hold up to most metals fairly well, at least to get the job done.

Usually and eventually you well need to dress them with a ******* file or course diamond stone.
 

A_Pmech

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My chisels are Craftsman. Not sure if they are "cold" chisels or what. I don't know the difference. I usually use them on whatever.
Recently used them on ceramic tile figuring tile has to be softer than metal but ended up dulling them after a little while.
I'm guessing that was a wrong move.

BMW,

A "Cold Chisel" is designed to be used on cold metal. Generally, they're lower alloys and have a higher included angle on the ground end. This "dull" edge maintains it's geometry longer than a sharp edge would.

A "Hot Chisel" on the other hand, is used by a blacksmith on metal heated to forging temperature. Generally, they're made of higher alloys to maintain their hardness under high temperatures and have a lower included angle on the ground end, i.e. they're sharper. The sharp edge is fine for working materials at their forging temperature, which have significantly softened.

Most, if not all ceramics are harder than steel. Thus, using a chisel on ceramic is very likely to dull it in short order. This is par for the course with chisels and a good use for the bench grinder. Also, grind off any mushrooming on the striking end. As the mushroom develops and starts to split, it is possible for a chunk of the mushroom to fly off at a high rate of speed. Usually right into your safety glasses!
 
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bmwpower

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Harder than steel?? I broke the tile to pieces though. I can't imagine doing that to steel.
 

volvo420coupe

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Harder than steel?? I broke the tile to pieces though. I can't imagine doing that to steel.

Oh-oh, I can hear a lesson in metallurgy coming from one of our more educated members. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the ability of steel to bend and flex, and ceramic's lack of such abilities.

But we have some members who can explain it MUCH better than I.
 

HandyManny

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No need for a metallurgy lesson, though I do like hearing people try to explain it. I believe the ceramics in question being mensioned are kiln baked ceramic tiles like that used in shower tiles, not the super hardened high tech ceramics for special application.
 
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bmwpower

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One thing for sure these tiles were super hard, about 3/8" thick. They were shower tiles from hell.
 

hmc610

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Well how do you properly dress a cold chisel? How sharp should the chisel be?
 

HandyManny

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Well how do you properly dress a cold chisel? How sharp should the chisel be?

Just follow the factory applied bevel. Use a 10" or 12" ******* file or a course grit stone. You don't want a shallow angled beveled edge. Steeper is better as it does not need to be knife sharp, but more blunt and durable.
 
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