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Choosing a hammer drill

joseywales

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Our basement and garage is poured concrete. I have a Hilti which fires em in just fine. But sometimes I prefer the Tapcon route and would like to run, I believe, a rotary hammer drill. So my questions:

1 - rotary is the correct tool for this task?

2 - I think I prefer corded at this point. I have the Ryobi system, but am not sure the Ryobi rotary hammer will get it done. At least, not in a quick way. Am I wrong about that?

3 - Vibration...yeah, I don't want any :mad: But, we don't always get what we want, so I want to minimize it. So, i read something about shock in the Dewalt drill, but am not certain that is designed to minimize shock to me??? Of course, if a drill goes in fast, then shock won't really be an issue anyway.

4 - Size. 7/8", 1", etc. Sorry, what does size mean? Is it the length of the SDS shank? What size would I be looking for, just for around the home use?

No rush, but if I could get the answer before Amazon Prime Deals end that would be nice :thumbup:

Thanks
 
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Finky198

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I'd say go buy a used Hilti TE2, TE6, TE7 check on eBay

As a fellow hilti user/owner with my past job as an installer I got to use most of brands across the market. and I've always been disappointed except for Hilti and Bosch. Not that the others won't get the job done, but the fit finish and general quality is not there. And out of those 2 I'd still give hilti a big lead with their 20 year service on (new purchases) which in turn is going to make parts available for a long time.

We for instance have a corded Rockwell hammer drill. idk where we got it, but the thing vibrates so much, I will not use hammer mode. I'm pretty sure it's out dedicated mortar/mud mixing drill...
 
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xela456

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May 22, 2014
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344
the 7/8 number is the rated bit capacity.
I agree with greyhorse the bosch bullog will do anyhting you need for the house.
they drill very fast and are in the 150 to 200 dollar range.
 
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joseywales

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the 7/8 number is the rated bit capacity.
I agree with greyhorse the bosch bullog will do anyhting you need for the house.
they drill very fast and are in the 150 to 200 dollar range.

So a 1" drill will handle a 1" diameter bit in the chuck, correct?
 

6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
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I have an old Milwaukee 1/2", pistol grip, cordred hammer drill for many years. I once drilled 1"diameter hole through a 15" concrete floor in a commercial garage to bring an air line up from a compressor in the basement. That sucker was smoking but years later it is still working fine.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Philbert

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Nov 15, 2011
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251
I have the Bosh Bulldog Extreme. It claims to be good to 1" I've used it for 1/2" or less around the house. no issues no problems. I used the Bulldog when I was in construction (it was the company tool). When I bought my house and stated changing things I got my own,.
 

dogdog

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Not too sure about hilti stuff.. but tapcon bits are usually sds bits and they drill bit size are usually dependent on the fastener used.....

usually the head of all sds are the same so if you have a drill that takes sds bits... you can buy any bits that labels sds.... and it will fit... it can be bit size 1" x 21" length.... 4 or 2 cutters.... or it can bit 1/2" x 21" length 2 or 4 cutters.... its any size any lenghts the end of the sds connector is the same size and looks.

The next up is the sds max for heavy duty stuff .... same terminology... sds max looks like sds connectors but larger , all sds max bits have the same connector and only fits sds max... they do sell different adapters if you have different bits...

the next up is the spline and hex bits... for even more heavy stuff i think.... not sure if those are popular for light commercial/home owner stuff.

Hilti have their own connectors....

Not sure what vibration you are referring to.... vibration of the tool on your hand while handling it ? or number of beats per minutes while in hammer drilling mode?


I have the hitachi dh40mr... only have 2 modes hammer drill or chisels (does not turn), dependents on what I am drilling, it can be loud and vibration on hand if I am drilling rocks.... but standard pour concrete.. it cuts it like butter with a proper bit and relatively no vibration on the hand.... Most home owner goes for the bosche version because it have drilling only mode... Neither will crack the concrete due to vibration in hammer bit mode if that is what you are concern about...vibration. if you are referring to drilling marbles... I think you needed those core drills.... non vibrating...
 
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xela456

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May 22, 2014
Messages
344
Not too sure about hilti stuff.. but tapcon bits are usually sds bits and they drill bit size are usually dependent on the fastener used.....

usually the head of all sds are the same so if you have a drill that takes sds bits... you can buy any bits that labels sds.... and it will fit... it can be bit size 1" x 21" length.... 4 or 2 cutters.... or it can bit 1/2" x 21" length 2 or 4 cutters.... its any size any lenghts the end of the sds connector is the same size and looks.

The next up is the sds max for heavy duty stuff .... same terminology... sds max looks like sds connectors but larger , all sds max bits have the same connector and only fits sds max... they do sell different adapters if you have different bits...

the next up is the spline and hex bits... for even more heavy stuff i think.... not sure if those are popular for light commercial/home owner stuff.

Hilti have their own connectors....

Not sure what vibration you are referring to.... vibration of the tool on your hand while handling it ? or number of beats per minutes while in hammer drilling mode?


I have the hitachi dh40mr... only have 2 modes hammer drill or chisels (does not turn), dependents on what I am drilling, it can be loud and vibration on hand if I am drilling rocks.... but standard pour concrete.. it cuts it like butter with a proper bit and relatively no vibration on the hand.... Most home owner goes for the bosche version because it have drilling only mode... Neither will crack the concrete due to vibration in hammer bit mode if that is what you are concern about...vibration. if you are referring to drilling marbles... I think you needed those core drills.... non vibrating...

Spline and Sds Max run the same size ranges just different shanks.
 
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cashishift

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Omaha, NE
I have a dewalt thats great.. mine is SDS plus.

has some shock absorbers that work great.

I love that its a 3 mode. chipping, drill, hammer.
 
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joseywales

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Thanks all. I bought the Bosch, 1" Bulldog. I went with a refurb for $129.00, from CPO. I read great reviews for their refurbs. Some actually being new returns, or lightly used, etc. 1 year warranty. On CL, I was finding Bulldogs for $100 or more. Maybe I find one for $75. Still, I couldn't beat $129. I did find a new one for $165, but it was on eBay and who knows what the warranty would be. I read that CPO was good to deal with, so I pulled the trigger. Also bought the Bosch bit set. I doubt I'll ever need more than 3/16", but you never know and $17. Free shipping as a new customer, so that saved me $7 anyway. I don't normally count pennies this tight, but this site is costing me a fortune!

Thanks again for all the input.
 

JRC3

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2 - I think I prefer corded at this point. I have the Ryobi system, but am not sure the Ryobi rotary hammer will get it done.

For anyone else still looking...No doubt there are much better drills out there, but I bought a Ryobi kit at the pawnshop mostly for the SDS drill. Well, that and the oscillating tool. But the drill is awesome. I already had the big Plus1 batteries for some lawn tools. The drill has done well even on 5/8 anchor holes. It munches 5/32 for tapcons with ease. But, it is SDS, so if you have a ton of non-SDS bits...

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Power-Tools-Drills-Rotary-Drills/Ryobi/N-5yc1vZc8wvZ1aw

I lucked into my kit for $150. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=632086&d=1489006294
 
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joseywales

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For anyone else still looking...No doubt there are much better drills out there, but I bought a Ryobi kit at the pawnshop mostly for the SDS drill. Well, that and the oscillating tool. But the drill is awesome. I already had the big Plus1 batteries for some lawn tools. The drill has done well even on 5/8 anchor holes. It munches 5/32 for tapcons with ease. But, it is SDS, so if you have a ton of non-SDS bits...

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Power-Tools-Drills-Rotary-Drills/Ryobi/N-5yc1vZc8wvZ1aw

I lucked into my kit for $150. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=632086&d=1489006294

You're killing me! I really wanted to buy that Ryobi, but read too many reviews about it heating up, smoking, etc. Maybe it's gotten better or guys were trying to core the earth with it. I just know my walls are poured concrete foundation and I didn't want any fuss - so I figured corded was the best route.
 
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driftpin

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OK cue the launches of the spitballs, posts of derision, negative commentary, and criticism: I bought a Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight) 1-9/16" VARIABLE SPEED ROTARY HAMMER. It uses the SDS Max bits. So far I am very satisfied with it.

I got estimates of $2000 to demo two bathrooms in our extensive home renovation of a 1950's construction CBS south Florida ranch-style home. The physical space would be kept, but everything down to the walls (a mix of wood-stud/plaster backerboard, and CBS walls) and the floor joists (hollow wood floor, joists, T & G 1X6" sheathing underlayment, ceramic tile finished floor) would be removed. I went to a couple of local tool jobbers and the Home Depot looking at the Bosch and Milwaukee stuff principally, but decided to buy at Harbor Freight. I read the online reviews for all the similar tools, and decided that the Harbor Freight was the 'best bang for the buck,' as it was SDS Max, and out the door the price was less than $100. If I was going to be using this in a frequent usage situation then I would have probably sprung for the Bosch end-loop handle model. But, I didn't expect to have much use for this after the bathroom demos, so I went with something I could use immediately, and if it blew-up, I could return it for an exchange, or a refund, and get one of the other more-expensive pieces like the Bosch.

About the only criticism I saw about the Chicago Electric tool was that the trigger would become 'sticky' after use, and while it wouldn't prevent the machine from stopping its motion, it would allow an electrical 'hum' to show that there was still a bit of energy passing thru the variable-speed switch. In use, I found this to be true, that after it got dusty, the switch would retract-enough to stop the tool's motion, but you could feel/hear a minimal current still energizing the switch. I found that by pulling-out on the long switch trigger, you could get it to stop completely. If I was using it continually, I didn't bother, but if I was going to stop work to clear rubble, then I would pull the switch closed before I put it down. Not a big deal, a minor inconvenience.

I did get a big tub of Valvoline general purpose grease, and the last thing I did for the day was to blow-off the tool, and to load the grease vault with fresh grease for the next day. In the morning, or when changing bits, I would be sure to use a good coating of grease on the bit flanges. If the bit flanges ran-low on grease, the bit movement would not become consistent, a tip-off that t's time to re-lube the flanges. At the end of the day, I scavenged some heavy polyethylene from the project scrap pile and wrapped the greasy bits in it to keep the grease from getting all-over everything, and to keep them together.

The bits I principally used were a 4" spade bit and a needle bit. I was using it as an impact tool, not as a drill, though I did buy the HFT set of SDS Max drill bits. Towards the end of the second bathroom, after yet-another bout of impact cutting and prying, I finally did manage to snap the HFT 4" spade bit. I sent my wife out to Home Depot for a replacement Bosch SDS Max replacement, and that tool allowed me to finish the job. I had her buy two, to ensure that I could finish, in-case I broke the first one, the second bit is now just sitting in it's wrapping, unused, and as-infrequently as I am using this tool, it will probably be like that for years.

So, my results were that the HFT/Chicage Electric 1-9/16" VARIABLE SPEED ROTARY HAMMER, using SDS Max bits, will do the work with little drama, at a very reasonable price, and allowed me to donate 5,000 lbs of masonry debris to the Miami-Dade Co. regional landfill. Even with the tipping fees (I have a 4' x 12' open utility trailer) and the tool purchase, I saved probably $1,700 over the bids I got for the bathroom demo work.

I've used the tool a few times since, and it's still capable of whatever I need it to do. I like and own Milwaukee and Porter-Cable electric tools, and I do use my Craftsman C3 19.2 V cordless stuff a lot, but this is a good tool for the money, if you don't need to beat-on it every day.
 

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bcradio

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OK cue the launches of the spitballs, posts of derision, negative commentary, and criticism: I bought a Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight) 1-9/16" VARIABLE SPEED ROTARY HAMMER. It uses the SDS Max bits. So far I am very satisfied with it.

I got estimates of $2000 to demo two bathrooms in our extensive home renovation of a 1950's construction CBS south Florida ranch-style home. The physical space would be kept, but everything down to the walls (a mix of wood-stud/plaster backerboard, and CBS walls) and the floor joists (hollow wood floor, joists, T & G 1X6" sheathing underlayment, ceramic tile finished floor) would be removed. I went to a couple of local tool jobbers and the Home Depot looking at the Bosch and Milwaukee stuff principally, but decided to buy at Harbor Freight. I read the online reviews for all the similar tools, and decided that the Harbor Freight was the 'best bang for the buck,' as it was SDS Max, and out the door the price was less than $100. If I was going to be using this in a frequent usage situation then I would have probably sprung for the Bosch end-loop handle model. But, I didn't expect to have much use for this after the bathroom demos, so I went with something I could use immediately, and if it blew-up, I could return it for an exchange, or a refund, and get one of the other more-expensive pieces like the Bosch.

About the only criticism I saw about the Chicago Electric tool was that the trigger would become 'sticky' after use, and while it wouldn't prevent the machine from stopping its motion, it would allow an electrical 'hum' to show that there was still a bit of energy passing thru the variable-speed switch. In use, I found this to be true, that after it got dusty, the switch would retract-enough to stop the tool's motion, but you could feel/hear a minimal current still energizing the switch. I found that by pulling-out on the long switch trigger, you could get it to stop completely. If I was using it continually, I didn't bother, but if I was going to stop work to clear rubble, then I would pull the switch closed before I put it down. Not a big deal, a minor inconvenience.

I did get a big tub of Valvoline general purpose grease, and the last thing I did for the day was to blow-off the tool, and to load the grease vault with fresh grease for the next day. In the morning, or when changing bits, I would be sure to use a good coating of grease on the bit flanges. If the bit flanges ran-low on grease, the bit movement would not become consistent, a tip-off that t's time to re-lube the flanges. At the end of the day, I scavenged some heavy polyethylene from the project scrap pile and wrapped the greasy bits in it to keep the grease from getting all-over everything, and to keep them together.

The bits I principally used were a 4" spade bit and a needle bit. I was using it as an impact tool, not as a drill, though I did buy the HFT set of SDS Max drill bits. Towards the end of the second bathroom, after yet-another bout of impact cutting and prying, I finally did manage to snap the HFT 4" spade bit. I sent my wife out to Home Depot for a replacement Bosch SDS Max replacement, and that tool allowed me to finish the job. I had her buy two, to ensure that I could finish, in-case I broke the first one, the second bit is now just sitting in it's wrapping, unused, and as-infrequently as I am using this tool, it will probably be like that for years.

So, my results were that the HFT/Chicage Electric 1-9/16" VARIABLE SPEED ROTARY HAMMER, using SDS Max bits, will do the work with little drama, at a very reasonable price, and allowed me to donate 5,000 lbs of masonry debris to the Miami-Dade Co. regional landfill. Even with the tipping fees (I have a 4' x 12' open utility trailer) and the tool purchase, I saved probably $1,700 over the bids I got for the bathroom demo work.

I've used the tool a few times since, and it's still capable of whatever I need it to do. I like and own Milwaukee and Porter-Cable electric tools, and I do use my Craftsman C3 19.2 V cordless stuff a lot, but this is a good tool for the money, if you don't need to beat-on it every day.

These are very good units and a very good value. You will probably surprise yourself at the amount of use it will get now that you own it.

The one thing I would recommend though is to get name brand consumables (bits) for it. As you found out already, the HF ones don't last as well.
 

JRC3

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Ryobi, but read too many reviews about it heating up, smoking, etc. Maybe it's gotten better or guys were trying to core the earth with it.

I think there is a common mindset to push hard on a hammer drill. One thing I notice with this Ryobi is you should let the tool do all the work. When you push hard on it is seems to kinda "float out" or something. Like the hammer bogs down or skims the impact or something, and it becomes way less effective. Maybe the people who complained weren't letting the tool do the work and they were making it work much longer than it needed to. Remember it is a battery powered tool and isn't gonna be as robust as a corded tool, especially a Hilti or Bosch. I think the drill is plenty on par for what it is...A non-pro, light weight, cordless/battery powered, well priced tool.

Also, mine isn't even the new version.
 

driftpin

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Dec 22, 2016
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It was the 4"-wide spade bit which broke, not a drill bit for holes. The spade bit broke after I demo'ed 1-1/2 baths floor-to ceiling, and tiled, old style plaster walls. At that point, i was about $1350 into the work my contractor was bidding us $1800 to do, the demo of two bathrooms to the floor joists, block walls, studs, or ceiling. So, yes, the bit broke, but you have consumables on a job. I 'consumed' a wide-spade demo bit, and saved me about $1,400.

The point about "let the tool do the work" is one an impact drill/demo impact hammer operator should take to heart. "Work smart, not hard."

These are very good units and a very good value. You will probably surprise yourself at the amount of use it will get now that you own it.

The one thing I would recommend though is to get name brand consumables (bits) for it. As you found out already, the HF ones don't last as well.
 
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RAS61

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538
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Low Country, SC
Bosch Bulldog. 11255vsr is the one I have, does everything I've asked of it so far.

Ditto here. I'd definitely go with a cord, this is a tool you don't use a lot, but when you need it you want no problems handling the job. A cord won't have any trouble handling larger holes or extended work (it has a chisel only mode for demo work), and it should last your lifetime. Batteries go dead over time, and cordless tools get phased out for new models - I have a great condition Porter Cable cordless drill I bought 15 years ago, now it's a paper weight because you can't even get the expensive but lousy chinese batteries for it.
 
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