Choosing which sockets to keep in top drawer

[TDFbound]

Earlier I had posted about a large tool set I bought. I ended up keeping it, and filling in some of the gaps in sizing of sockets. The only problem, if you can even think of it as a problem, is that now I’ve got just about two identical sets of both 6 point and 12 point sockets both deep and standard. I have an good handful of mid-depth 6 point ones as well for 3/8 and 1/4 drive. I don’t think I need them ALL in my top drawer- would it make sense to only stock the 6 points where I use them the most and store the 12 points somewhere less convenient for when I actually need them? What have you done when faced with that decision? Here’s a pic of most of the 1/2 and 3/8 drive Just standing in the drawer. None of the 1/4 drive sockets are in there, and none of the hex or torx bits either.

 

[BrandoJames]

In my box, I sort my ratchets and sockets by size:

Top drawer = 1/4" ratchets, 1/4" sockets, 1/4" spinner drivers.
2nd drawer = 3/8" ratchets, 3/8" sockets.
3rd drawer = 1/2" ratchets, 1/2" sockets.
4th drawer = combo wrenches + flex-head ratcheting box wrenches.
5th drawer = screwdrivers + trim panel tools
6th drawer = pliers + vice grips + electrical diag (multimeter + test lights)
7th drawer = plumber wrenches + hammers + C-clamps.
Bottom drawer = power tools.

My sockets are almost exclusively 6 pt; my few 12 pt sockets are from my old man's box (even he preferred 6 pt). My combo wrenches = 12 pt; box ratcheting flex wrenches = 6 pt.

I keep a breaker bar in my trunk (in case I get a flat on the road). I also keep a small tool box in my trunk with emergency tools. Additional note: I'd never tell a guy that his tool organization is "wrong". But if you spend a lot of time looking for tools, then you need to rethink your setup.

 

[PhantomEB]

Top drawer one of every 6 point socket possible, still filling up gaps. I do have impacts in there as well extensions and one of every size ratchet.

Second drawer is the SAE wrench collection.

Third drawer is Metric. Specialty sockets or over size are off to the corner tool box. They don’t get used enough to ever be in the main boxes.

 

[m6z]

Everything.

Unless it just won't fit.

 

[Mr_B]

Do what works best for your preference and tools to the drawer sizes.
I got no idea why everyone craves deep long top drawers crammed with socketry .
Splitting it to 2 or 3 drawers is no big deal and can work well when planned well to your requirements .

 

[canuckian]

I keep all sockets, extensions, crows feet, adapters, etc in the top drawer because I tend to use sockets most. ratchets are all in the top side drawer. Speed isn’t an issue for me (not a pro) so having to open a second or third drawer to get a wrench or impact gun to use Along with the socket isn’t a big deal.
Most pros I know put their most used tools in the top 2 drawers but I rarely see sets broken up to store lesser used sizes lower down in the box.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Over 50+ years, I have acquired a lot of sockets. As of now, ALL of my 1/2 drive sockets are in my bottom drawer along with my ratchets, extensions and universals. The torque wrench is in a separate drawer.

Whats up top is 3/8 and 1/4.

Don't waste your money on 3/8 impact unless you are using something like a Milwaukee 3/8 stubby. I have them. Never use them.

 

[CoogarXR]

My sockets are in a tall, shallow cabinet.

-Top/Open area- 3/4 drive sets
-Top Drawer- Ratchets, extensions
-2nd Drawer- 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 shallow/standard depth
-3rd Drawer- 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 deep
-4th drawer- 3/8, 1/2 Impact

 

[oldwino]

My arrangement:
Top drawer 1/4 and 3/8”SAE sockets, ratchets, etc
Next drawer 1/2” stuff
Towards the bottom of the chest all metric sockets, wrenches, etc. Don’t have much use for metrics but nice for those occasions

 

[CGarage]

The reason for putting sockets in the top drawer is to make it easier to read the size of the sockets when you are standing and looking down at them!!! It saves time!!!

Not a bad idea putting the heavy 1/2” drive sockets down at the bottom drawer since they are mostly used for under the vehicle applications.

One of the best lessons I learned here:

1/4” drive for interior
3/8” drive for under the hood
1/2” drive for under the car

While not universal it is a very good rule of thumb.

 

[Mr_B]

for reading sizes it easier when on sides .
From my standpoint in daily use 99% of basic common tools used every day are out on my trolley box top and rarely do you need go to a socketry wrench screwdriver drawer.
Really only OP going be able answer his own question and that along with size of drawers going dictate layout and his principle of splitting lesser used 12point seems logical enough for his use .
Those who put most used tool in top 2 or 3 drawers not a favourite of mine, I like be able leave open most used useful drawers and not have them hinder other useful drawers, I have 3 2 bay boxes to do this though .
It all matter of individual preference and storage layout you got ... no real right or wrong .

 

[CGarage]

for reading sizes it easier when on sides .
From my standpoint in daily use 99% of basic common tools used every day are out on my trolley box top and rarely do you need go to a socketry wrench screwdriver drawer.
Really only OP going be able answer his own question and that along with size of drawers going dictate layout and his principle of splitting lesser used 12point seems logical enough for his use .
Those who put most used tool in top 2 or 3 drawers not a favourite of mine, I like be able leave open most used useful drawers and not have them hinder other useful drawers, I have 3 2 bay boxes to do this though .
It all matter of individual preference and storage layout you got ... no real right or wrong .

Can you please post pics of your setup and your tool trolley please?

 

[Noworries]

However you do decide to set up your box after a short period of time you will get used to where everything is and reaching for what uou need will become reflex. Just remember "if you put it in the same place everytime it will be in the same place everytime "

 

[skulldrinker]

You need a bigger drawer.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[ChevyEFI]

Earlier I had posted about a large tool set I bought. I ended up keeping it, and filling in some of the gaps in sizing of sockets. The only problem, if you can even think of it as a problem, is that now I’ve got just about two identical sets of both 6 point and 12 point sockets both deep and standard. I have an good handful of mid-depth 6 point ones as well for 3/8 and 1/4 drive. I don’t think I need them ALL in my top drawer- would it make sense to only stock the 6 points where I use them the most and store the 12 points somewhere less convenient for when I actually need them? What have you done when faced with that decision? Here’s a pic of most of the 1/2 and 3/8 drive Just standing in the drawer. None of the 1/4 drive sockets are in there, and none of the hex or torx bits either. https://imgur.com/gallery/HMtmJhE

Take all the 3/8 and 1/2 drive 6 point stuff and put it aside.
When you truly cannot use a 12 point wrench or socket, move that 6 point back into your main box, and maybe store the 12.

Half the ****. More speed. More work done. You already have a lot of overlap of your 1/4 and 3/8 sets, and the 3/8 and 1/2 sets. Do you take your snow tires with you to the beach? No, you move them into action when actually needed.

 

[BrandoJames]

Take all the 3/8 and 1/2 drive 6 point stuff and put it aside.

Whoa. For most DIYers, you're less likely to strip a fastener with 6 point. For professional techs and serious hobbyists, then 6 pt vs 12 pt is a matter of personal preference.

 

[richfinn]

Its an impossible question to answer

How big is the drawer?

How many sockets?

Are you working on Trucks or Bicycles?

Hondas or Porsches?

Classics or Modern?

Work with the tools for a few months and it will become obvious how you need to organise them

I dont have any Inch tools at all anymore, all metric
If I dont need something everyday I dont keep it to hand

Watch some tool cart tours on Youtube relevant to what your fixing!!!

 

[LNKMK8]

Yes; I recently did this. I don't have a huge box, so I when I ran out of drawer space in my main box, I moved some of my less common used sockets over to my side cabinet (such as 12pt 1/2" drive and External Torx). Stop and think about the last time you used a socket off a rail... for me, it had probably been 10+ years, so they got moved.

I kept my 6PT in 1/4 - 3/8 - 1/2 drive, SAE and MM, short and deep in my primary socket drawer, as well as a set of 3/8 mid-depth and flex-end sockets in SAE and MM.

 

[Lassen Forge]

My top drawer has my line wrenches in it. it's the second that has sockets.

 

[setfocus]

All of my sockets are in my full length deep top drawer now, except a set of matco torx bit sockets in a blow molded case, and some other frequently used tools are kept there. The drawer isn't as neat/clean as some but everything has it's place and is easy to find

All my wrenches are in the 2nd full length shallow drawer below. Those top 2 drawers and my pliers drawer are open the most. I like only using a few of the drawers the majority of the time. The big top drawers on newer toolbox designs, holds the most tools, and so most people organize to have the most frequently used tools kept there.

Move tools around and see what you like most



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[BrandoJames]

Why is a DIY more likely to strip a fastener with 12 point than a professional? The bolt shouldn't care who's turning it at all, either the socket should work or it shouldn't.

Tekton's website has a good writeup on this issue, "Which is Better in Sockets and Wrenches? 6-Point vs 12-Point" (link below). Excerpt from the article:

"The answer depends on your situation...Your tool will work best when it fits precisely onto the fastener. If your fastener is 12-point, which is somewhat uncommon, then you must use a 12-point tool. For 6-point fasteners, a 6-point tool is your best choice. Matching up the points between the tool and fastener means that you will maximize the surface area of steel in contact, making the tool less likely to slip or fail...
For the best fit, choose a 6-point socket for a 6-point fastener and a 12-point socket for a 12-point fastener. Tekton offers sockets in both varieties."

https://www.tekton.com/which-is-better-in-sockets-and-wrenches-6-point-vs-12-point

 

[jgromada]

I have a full length drawer of my 52" cabinet for all sockets. This is both impact and regular. But is is pretty full so i have another 1/2 drawer full of ratchets, Torque wrenches and adapters. Part of another 1/2 drawer has the speciality sockets, Torx & ETorx , Hex, Crowsfoot, Triple square (XZN),

If i continue to run out of room, i may expel my SAE wrenches & sockets to another 26" box I have. Don't want to get rid of them but they are rarely used.

But organize how they work for you. I see some people like working out of a smaller cart and i have a real small car just to collect the tools i am currently using but i work out in my driveway on my car.

 

[richfinn]

Tekton's website has a good writeup on this issue, "Which is Better in Sockets and Wrenches? 6-Point vs 12-Point" (link below). Excerpt from the article:

"The answer depends on your situation...Your tool will work best when it fits precisely onto the fastener. If your fastener is 12-point, which is somewhat uncommon, then you must use a 12-point tool. For 6-point fasteners, a 6-point tool is your best choice. Matching up the points between the tool and fastener means that you will maximize the surface area of steel in contact, making the tool less likely to slip or fail...
For the best fit, choose a 6-point socket for a 6-point fastener and a 12-point socket for a 12-point fastener. Tekton offers sockets in both varieties."

https://www.tekton.com/which-is-better-in-sockets-and-wrenches-6-point-vs-12-point

I dont have a problem with 12 points, I use them a lot on old rusty British weather beat cars. If they are good quality its a non issue really

People use 12 point wrenches almost exclusively everyday without issue

If I know its going to be a fight or needs heat I might pick a 6 point

My advice is chrome 12 point

Impact 6 point

Covers more bases in a beginner's kit

 

[BrandoJames]

Nice google skills. And quoted from a bargain brand manufacturer, that has a vested interest in steering you towards it's less prone to failure tools, not it's best for the use ones..

That’s quite a chip on your shoulder, guy. Like most people here, I’ve used both 6 point & 12 point tools (in an earlier post on this thread, I mention that my combo wrenches are 12 pt box). For most people, including the people who work at Tekton, it’s not a mystery why using a 6 pt socket on a 6 pt fastener is *usually* the best approach. Rage away.

 

[regguy1]

Check out the tool box organization video: video .\

 

[BrandoJames]

I said it in my last post, and will again, I agree that there's a slight advantage to 6 point in non-slip on bolt round-over. Still don't see how that affects DIY more than Pro.

I think the advantage of 6 point over 12 point is more than "slight" in most cases, and a DIYer is much more likely to make a mistake like stripping a fastener. That's why Tekton--who's primary market is DIYers, recommends 6 point tools. Tekton wants the best result for their customers, so they'll buy more Tekton tools. I don't think there's anything sinister going on here.

A professional is much less likely to strip a fastener, whether he's using 6 point, 12 point, or vice grips. A pro has the benefit of training & experience which allows him the flexibility of using a wider range of tools effectively. I don't think that point is even debatable--I'd say that's a truism.

 

[Al Borland]

Put simply, the DIY guy is more likely to have cheap tools with sloppy tolerances.
Making 6 pointers more important.