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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT Chris_P's 30x40x14 Build

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.

penutbuter

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Apr 5, 2017
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33
Location
Montgomery, TX
My house service meter is mounted on my house. The newer homes are ours here have a pedestal with meter at the front property line near the service (road). My options from MidSouth were either a new meter service or a new double lug meter on my house with larger gauge wire ran from the transformer that is 400 amps. Technically i think it’s it is a 320 amp service.
Fantastic. Hopefully I can get them to give me a few more amps and I will just run underground primary from the meter.

I have a house mounted meter and typical 200a service now. But I can trench out to the corner of the shop from there in under 120' shouldn't even have too much line loss with aluminum at that distance.
 
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Chris_P

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Jun 10, 2020
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Montgomery, TX
This is what I may do in the future. At the moment we run a few gas appliances so the 200 Amp service we have should allow me to add a double 100 amp breaker to the existing house panel. If we ever need to get more than 100 amps, the setup will allow a double lug to be installed and reconnect to that.
 

j p smith

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May 22, 2013
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Location
Glendale, Arizona
Here are the latest developments:

View attachment 1508180
High-centered the trencher...
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Chris, in the picture that shows the galvanized pipe coming up out of the trench, think about extending the galvanized pipe out from the 90 6 to 10 inches. With what you have it will be real easy to break the plastic line or fitting. By extending the 6 to 10 inches it gives you a stronger corner. Hope this makes sense to you. You have a great looking shop by the way
 
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Chris_P

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Montgomery, TX
Chris, in the picture that shows the galvanized pipe coming up out of the trench, think about extending the galvanized pipe out from the 90 6 to 10 inches. With what you have it will be real easy to break the plastic line or fitting. By extending the 6 to 10 inches it gives you a stronger corner. Hope this makes sense to you. You have a great looking shop by the way
I guess I’m not understanding where the extra 6-10 inches would go. Are you meaning having 6-10 inches of galvanized pipe on the horizontal section before the 90 degree elbow? Please explain.
Thanks
 
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Chrisb62

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Jul 30, 2019
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Location
southwest fl
Not speaking for j p smith ,but yes the horizontal section, it fact I would suggest closer to 12".
It would make for a much stronger corner in case it gets bumped by a mower or something like that.
Looks great so far , will be checking in often.

Chris B
 
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Chris_P

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Jun 10, 2020
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Montgomery, TX
Ok that's what I thought. Does anyone know the best way to secure the riser portion to the building?

By the way, I wish this board had a sub forum of piping/plumbing for water, air, etc.
 

Chrisb62

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Location
southwest fl
Ok that's what I thought. Does anyone know the best way to secure the riser portion to the building?

By the way, I wish this board had a sub forum of piping/plumbing for water, air, etc.
Personal preference would be 4x4 post outside of concrete so no holes in building.
But have seen short pieces of unistrut bolted to building with clamp holding pipe to unistrut.
Powder coating unistrut to match building to blend in helps.
 
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Chris_P

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Montgomery, TX

j p smith

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May 22, 2013
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Glendale, Arizona
I guess I’m not understanding where the extra 6-10 inches would go. Are you meaning having 6-10 inches of galvanized pipe on the horizontal section before the 90 degree elbow? Please explain.
Thanks
Sorry I did not explain better but exactly what Chrisb62 said.
 

j p smith

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May 22, 2013
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1,213
Location
Glendale, Arizona
Ok that's what I thought. Does anyone know the best way to secure the riser portion to the building?

By the way, I wish this board had a sub forum of piping/plumbing for water, air, etc.
I think there would be a large selection of ideas to pick from. I usually feed the line, glavy or copper, up thru a 3" piece of square tubing to a drilled hole about 4" down from the top, stick the street el through the hole and thread on the faucet, at the lower end tape any areas that will come in contact with the concrete, then 1 or 2 bags of premix to set the square tube, cap on top for a finished look. I will get a picture of one of mine when I get home this evening
 
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Chris_P

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Jun 10, 2020
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Location
Montgomery, TX
I think there would be a large selection of ideas to pick from. I usually feed the line, glavy or copper, up thru a 3" piece of square tubing to a drilled hole about 4" down from the top, stick the street el through the hole and thread on the faucet, at the lower end tape any areas that will come in contact with the concrete, then 1 or 2 bags of premix to set the square tube, cap on top for a finished look. I will get a picture of one of mine when I get home this evening
Please do.
 

j p smith

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May 22, 2013
Messages
1,213
Location
Glendale, Arizona
Please do.
Chris here are 2 of my faucet stands, these I did using copper with flanged 90 degree fittings out side the square tubing. The copper lines were taped with 4 mil tape where the copper is in the concrete, the 90 at the bottom has a 10/12 inch extension to the female fitting that the plastic threads into.
 

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Chrisb62

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Chris here are 2 of my faucet stands, these I did using copper with flanged 90 degree fittings out side the square tubing. The copper lines were taped with 4 mil tape where the copper is in the concrete, the 90 at the bottom has a 10/12 inch extension to the female fitting that the plastic threads into.
Those look awesome.......
 
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mannydantyla

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Jan 24, 2019
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LFK
Looking good, Chris! What underground wire did you use? The very next thing on my to do list is digging and installing the wire to my detached garage that I'm building. I might only need 60 amps max, but like you I have a 200 amp panel at the house and use less then 100amps.
 
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Chris_P

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Jun 10, 2020
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Location
Montgomery, TX
Thanks!

I bought the wire from Lowe’s
4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 Aluminum Mobile Home Feeder Service Entrance Cable (By-the-Foot)
Item #: 70262|Model #: 28714401

And I installed it in 2” conduit. Don’t forget the cable lube! It pulls easy through the the straights but add bends and the lube is needed.
 

kberjian

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Jun 1, 2016
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Location
Calgary
Love the doors! Can never have too much natural light in my opinion.

The conduit runs are a pain but it looks clean and will last forever. Good work.
 

penutbuter

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Apr 5, 2017
Messages
33
Location
Montgomery, TX
Now I need to get cracking on emt conduit runs for electric distribution. Feeling a little overwhelmed with it at the moment…
Remember to plan out your circuits well and then add an extra one or two just in case. You can't have too many outlets and putting them now will save you later. Get a book of numbers before you start running to keep it all square.

When you are running to the far side of the room use 3/4 or 1" and put a handful of circuits to distribute on the other side. it'll save you in time down the line and keep you from having a ton of overhead runs.

That first set of runs looks good!
 
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Chris_P

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Location
Montgomery, TX
Love the doors! Can never have too much natural light in my opinion.

The conduit runs are a pain but it looks clean and will last forever. Good work.
Thanks. Yeah that door was my wife’s request. I would like to have some natural light coming through the roof but I detest leaks.
 
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