Chuck removal
- Thread starter Sawmill7
- Start date
DAWrench
Well-known member
Can you see a screw if look down thru the open chuck jaws? If so it it is probably threaded on and what you see is the locking screw
whateg01
Well-known member
2JT is the taper. If there is a screw visible from the inside, it's just insurance. I've had to drill through the back of the chuck to get a punch in and knock the adapter out before. Without wedges that's probably what I would do. Do you have a bearing separate r?
FrankLee
Well-known member
Wedges will remove the arbor.
That's a Jacobs 11N 3/8" Super Ball Bearing chuck which has a 2JT Jacobs taper. Wedges are the conventional way of removing it. I prefer to do it my own unconventional way when possible, it's just easier & fool proof for me. I'm not a fan of wedges, sometimes they work fine, sometimes they don't.
Assuming that arbor is threaded on the end for a drawbar or pull tab, I would utilize that. Even if it wasn't I would drill & tap for a thread assuming you don't need the arbor. Get a pipe or some sort of sleeve that will fit over the arbor but not bigger than the diameter of the chuck. You'll have to slot the sleeve to clear the drive dogs. Sleeve should be just slightly longer than the arbor making contact with the bottom of the chuck. Washer over the sleeve a bolt to do the pulling.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...r-removing-stubborn-drill-chuck-arbors.84371/
Assuming that arbor is threaded on the end for a drawbar or pull tab, I would utilize that. Even if it wasn't I would drill & tap for a thread assuming you don't need the arbor. Get a pipe or some sort of sleeve that will fit over the arbor but not bigger than the diameter of the chuck. You'll have to slot the sleeve to clear the drive dogs. Sleeve should be just slightly longer than the arbor making contact with the bottom of the chuck. Washer over the sleeve a bolt to do the pulling.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...r-removing-stubborn-drill-chuck-arbors.84371/
Last edited:
Neither was my example above. Not hard to do & as ai mentioned that's what I would do. If you care, wedges will likely mar/gouge the bottom of the chuck body.
whateg01
Well-known member
How is it pulled into the spindle?
seber
Well-known member
Jacobs taper is just inserted with a small amount of force by hand. The taper locks it in.
whateg01
Well-known member
The chuck is held on the arbor with the Jacobs taper (red). The spindle taper keeps the arbor centered in the spindle (blue). Something has to keep it in the spindle to keep the drive dogs engaged. There should be a thread in the end (top) of the adapter.
whateg01
Well-known member
What does the non-Chuck end of the arbor look like? Pics?
FrankLee
Well-known member
Drill presses generally have a 33JT spindle. That chuck has a 2JT mount. You'll need an adapter, if there is one.
whateg01
Well-known member
Depending on the machine it's going on, drill press spindle might be morse taper.
I've never seen or heard of one. And if there was one I wouldn't use it. But then again if the OP has a DP with a morse taper spindle then no problem. But small DPs don't usually do.
whateg01
Well-known member
Must be considered a locking taper. Of course, that makes the drive dogs a little redundant. Welp, as somebody else suggested, wedges or drill a hole in the end and tap it.
Have you tried wedges?
Older made in USA Jacobs keyed chucks have a through hole, at least all of the made in Hartford ones I have worked on did, but it's not very big. As in a 5/32" punch fits for the 14N (1/2" capacity) but I have had one that it did not fit.
Yours being the 11N which is the smallest of the Super Ball Bearing chucks, that hole may be even smaller. And with such a small punch it's very risky trying to press it out that way. If you use a cheap punch that bends or breaks you are screwed. If the tip of the punch mushrooms over if you try to hammer the punch you'll be screwed.
Newer SBB chucks did not have a through hole. Yours listing a SVC kit on it is a newer one & is most likely made overseas even though some were engraved "Jacobs USA" on them which isn't actually true. Current ones are laser engraved to save even more cost. The SVC kit # means it has a caged bearing as opposed to the loose individual ball bearings that older USA ones had. The rebuild kits are not interchangeable.
Anyways, you can drill out the center of a keyed chuck but NEVER on a keyless chuck. Regardless I wouldn't even both as I would not use the center to try & press off the arbor. You could get lucky but if that big *** arbor has been on there for a while & is on pretty good, wedges may not even get it off.
Again, I hate wegdes, they don't always work, not available for all JT sizes, don't always fit, & they can cause cosmetic damaged to the chuck body, some may not care about but I certainly do. The sleeve & bolt method I posted is a much safer way & successful without cussing method of doing it. I would cut those dogs off to avoid having to notch the sleeve. Drilling & tapping the end of the arbor is simple, the arbor should not be hardened at all on that end.
You don't have to take my word for it but I have had plenty of experience with these. I have rebuilt/refurbished a bunch of them.
Last edited:
If your chuck is like mine, when you look down the jaws toward the arbor you will see the bottom end of your chuck.
On mine, when I drilled the hole, there was a clearance space between the bottom of the check and the end of the arbor. Space was at least an 1/8” IIRC.
I also could not get a set of #2 wedges to fit in the space on my chuck.
On mine, when I drilled the hole, there was a clearance space between the bottom of the check and the end of the arbor. Space was at least an 1/8” IIRC.
I also could not get a set of #2 wedges to fit in the space on my chuck.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
With the dimple in the center of the adapter, it would be a simple matter to drill and tap and use the method darkzero showed above.
Otherwise, just order a set of wedges from the internet.
IIRC, those cost around ten bucks. If you want to make things easier, grease the wedges and use a vise to press them together.
Otherwise, just order a set of wedges from the internet.
IIRC, those cost around ten bucks. If you want to make things easier, grease the wedges and use a vise to press them together.
Generally no, not the way it was manufactured. But someone may have already drilled a hole. Open the jaws as far as possible, and check it with a flashlight.
Usually best is a 5/16" hole and the same pin punch. If that chuck will accommodate. With Jacobs brand chucks the bodies are soft and easily drilled. Other brands can be as hard as a rock
This is getting to be quite the project. End of arbor is hardened can't touch it with a drill. Inside of chuck looks to be drilled already. Tried to drill farther and must be hitting arbor. Tried 5/16 punch... No movement.
Maybe heat up end of arbor to soften then drill and tap..your thoughts?
Maybe heat up end of arbor to soften then drill and tap..your thoughts?
It's not likely the entire arbor is hardened but who knows what that arbor is. I'm surprised that it even is, maybe just case hardened? Grind the end of it some, then check to see it it's still hard. Heck I would just cut the ***** in half..... then you can just make a shorter sleeve.
Last resort would be to cut most of the arbor off, then drill to relieve most of the center of taper in the chuck. But without a lathe or mill I wouldn't do that by hand
.
Last resort would be to cut most of the arbor off, then drill to relieve most of the center of taper in the chuck. But without a lathe or mill I wouldn't do that by hand
.
Well after lots of suggestions it finally came apart. Cut off end of arbor and was able to drill and tap 3/8". Pipe to fit over arbor and heavy washer and 1/2" air impact gun it popped off.
Looks like someone put red locktite inside #2 Jacob's taper. Maybe was not worth the time as maybe Jacobs taper is no good. Will see when I get a new arbor. Thanks for all the input on this little project. Bill
Looks like someone put red locktite inside #2 Jacob's taper. Maybe was not worth the time as maybe Jacobs taper is no good. Will see when I get a new arbor. Thanks for all the input on this little project. Bill
Attachments
Keith RUcker just made an arbor similar to this for his milling machine. it has some sort of a lock nut that slips over the tangs and secures it in place.
I agree with drilling the center of the chuck & pressing it out
oop's see I'm a t ad late
now you can buy a reamer to fix up the taper LOL
RoninB4
Well-known member
-The taper on both of those looks chewed, that's likely why red Loctite was used.
whateg01
Well-known member
Soak the loctite in acetone and it should come out. Feel for any high spots or birds. Could be that the arbor isn't right and somebody just filled it with red to make it stay in place.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Makes me nuts too when that happens.I don't like it when a project gets the best of me
I've never seen or heard of a Jacobs taper reamer, morse taper yes but not JT. Would need to clean it up on a lathe if possible/accessible or if even worth it.
Last edited:
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Not sure if a reamed finish would work well or not. For a taper to lock and unlock the surfaces really need to mate properly and have a decent surface finish. I've used lapping compound on one particularly troublesome chuck with no success. After 6 attempts with various methods, including using a lathe, I used a friction weld. For a lathe tailstock it's not so fussy but for a vertical holding application like a drill press it's another story. The PO of that chuck might have experienced the same difficulties I did (the arbor looks chewed) and decided to use red Loctite to end the aggravation. Ever had a chuck in a drill press drop while at speed? Potential for personal injury is high. JMO