Chuck vs chuck

[saltysteve]

Bought two no namers off amazon. Both 1/2" one is bigger then the other but also a little longer so less drilling room on the 10" drill press. Both about same cost. Would you keep the bigger one or smaller? They both drill fine and from the naked eye dont have any differencee in run out. The larger has a allen to keep the tightening adjustment in place though which isnt as nice as the spine mounted smaller one. Would the larger one hold the bit harder/better? Looking for the pros and cons before i make my return . Thanks for any help!

 

[ItsNemo]

Post links or something, nobody is going to be able to evaluate your vague descriptions of the drill chucks. Frankly sounds like a toss of a coin.

 

[saltysteve]

Post links or something, nobody is going to be able to evaluate your vague descriptions of the drill chucks. Frankly sounds like a toss of a coin.

Sorry something happened to the pics... reattaching now

 

[lilredex]

If they are not a major investment, keep both.

I have a couple that look like the smaller, and they work just fine.

#25013 here...

http://www.cdcotools.com/

 

[BarryWells]

You dont have enough drill to worry about strength and gripping power. Either will be OK

 

[pstemari]

If you have a test indicator, then you can evaluate the run out on the two different chucks. That's the main thing I can think of that wouldn't be obvious from just visual inspection.

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[saltysteve]

If you have a test indicator, then you can evaluate the run out on the two different chucks. That's the main thing I can think of that wouldn't be obvious from just visual inspection.

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Ya i figured it might come down to that. New with the whole drill press thing. Im just working on small stuff but mostly metal. Hows this test indicator for a quick test? HGC Precision Yellow 0.030" Test Indicator 0. 0005" GR Dial Reading 0-15-0 New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KLVVF3D/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[darkzero]

I'd use a dial indicator rather than an eye ball indicator to measure runout. But really if it's for a drill press wouldn't matter much cause drill presses/drill bits aren't used to make precision holes. Well unless one visually has more noticeable runout if you don't have an indicator to measure but you say they seem to look about the same for runout.

If both have about the same runout, if I had to choose based on looks alone I'd choose the one on the right simply cause it looks more like the shape of a real Albrecht.

 

[dutchgray]

I would say you bought two cheap drill chucks and there is nothing wrong with either of them, so you now a chuck for the drill and a spare one. Returning something when there isn't anything wrong with it is not right.

 

[saltysteve]

I would say you bought two cheap drill chucks and there is nothing wrong with either of them, so you now a chuck for the drill and a spare one. Returning something when there isn't anything wrong with it is not right.

Currently we arent sure if they fail their run out spec and cosmetically they both look like they were already used. Dents, missing paint and possibly damaged from shipping. Im not one to scam anyone but also not someone whos going to pay for a used/defective/damaged item at full cost. Im not looking for ethical tips just mechanical ones

 

[NC Rick]

All things being equal (run out, capacity and finish quality), I would go for the smaller of the two based on the additional drive pin drive holes and the fact that the smaller size will get in the way less and fit more places. In the photos, the smaller looks better finished too.

 

[seber]

You don't need a dial indicator. Get a long dowel or drill rod. the longer the better. If you don't find enough runout to move a block on the table then that is good enough for a small light duty drill press. The drill press will contribute more runout then the chuck in most cases.

 

[saltysteve]

Thanks guys for all the help so far! A few more pics.

 

[exmaxima1]

Thanks guys for all the help so far! A few more pics.

They look like the J33 mount chuck I bought recently. It slipped on the arbor the first time I used a hole saw and now will not seat. Total garbage. Put the original Rohm chuck back on and it runs perfectly again.

 

[saltysteve]

They look like the J33 mount chuck I bought recently. It slipped on the arbor the first time I used a hole saw and now will not seat. Total garbage. Put the original Rohm chuck back on and it runs perfectly again.

Hey , thanks! That actually worked! I was having a wobble that with the naked eye didnt look right for a drill press. I kept trying different bits to view the wobble or run out. After i used this tool in pic i could really see the difference. Put the original chuck back in and wobble is gone! Either im inserting the chuck wrong on post or the keyless no namers are completely worthless. By the way what is the tool inserted in the chuck in picture for?

 

[saltysteve]

Also any recommendations on a better keyless chuck thats at least as good as the stock wen that came with?

 

[zmotorsports]

Also any recommendations on a better keyless chuck thats at least as good as the stock wen that cane with?

I'm a fan of Albrecht keyless chucks. I have one for my lathe as well as my milling machine. I use them almost exclusively for anything 1/2" and under. For my larger bits I have a few Jacobs keyed chucks but they don't get used nearly as much as my keyless Albrechts.

 

[NC Rick]

The albrecht chuck could cost more than the drill press. Excellent tool, no argument there. I'd buy one of the precision chucks pre mounted on an arbor from someone like Shars. It's chinesium but pretty well vetted by the folks who run that pace. I have come to trust them for low cost items where I can't afford the real premium deal.

Side note: the keyless chuck isn't good for power tapping because they don't want to grip in reverse. They self lock in forward and make for quick tool changes. I'm running a used Jacobs "Super chuck" on my made in Taiwan DP it runs out about 3 thou but I'm gripping all kinds of weird stuff and old drills with damage on the shanks etc. I sometimes change out to a Jacobs #1 which will run within a couple tenths. I use a keyless precision Chuck in the lathe and Bridgeport.

 

[tarbellb]

Jacobs Super ball bearing
Llambrich
Rohm
Albrecht$
Yukiwa

 

[saltysteve]

The albrecht chuck could cost more than the drill press. Excellent tool, no argument there. I'd buy one of the precision chucks pre mounted on an arbor from someone like Shars. It's chinesium but pretty well vetted by the folks who run that pace. I have come to trust them for low cost items where I can't afford the real premium deal.


Side note: the keyless chuck isn't good for power tapping because they don't want to grip in reverse. They self lock in forward and make for quick tool changes. I'm running a used Jacobs "Super chuck" on my made in Taiwan DP it runs out about 3 thou but I'm gripping all kinds of weird stuff and old drills with damage on the shanks etc. I sometimes change out to a Jacobs #1 which will run within a couple tenths. I use a keyless precision Chuck in the lathe and Bridgeport.

I dont think i have reverse on this wen press. And i didnt see a keyless chuck mount on arbor that had precision in the title. Would you mind posting a link or pic from the shars site please?

 

[saltysteve]

Jacobs Super ball bearing
Llambrich
Rohm
Albrecht$
Yukiwa

They look nice but pricey for my press.

 

[NC Rick]

https://www.shars.com/products/tool...huck-with-morse-taper-2-integral-shank-13mm-1

That would be what I would get. I have an SPI which was made in Taiwan quite a lot of years ago. I use it in my milling machine for doing small holes (#55 or #60) with carbide drills at as high of RPM as I can get. I also use it for everything up to 3/8". Id by another in a heartbeat if they still offered them. I suspect (but don't own) the Shars will be about the same. I have had good luck with items from them. They have been in business for many years. I'd rather own an Albrecht but if I did, I would never put it on my drill press.

 

[NC Rick]

I'll post a couple of my chuck photos. The Super chuck on my drill press is one I got for free years ago. It is great but runs out. The rebuild kit cost a couple hundred bucks. It works excellent in the DP.

My other super chucks are US made and run pretty true.

 

[MikeF2316]

I'd keep as many as have runout of .002" or less. It never hurts to have a spare. Anything more than that and it's not worth keeping around.

 

[Indexmill]

It is still quite amazing what the Chinese can knock off. Many of their Albrecht knock offs are quite good for 25% of the cost.

 

[NC Rick]

Indexmill, I can't agree with the 25% cost. It's more like 15% of the cost. I dislike buying chinesium products because they rip off good manufacturers and worse, put them out of business and make the good stuff unavailable to us. With that downside, buying used doesn't help much. For the OP, we are talking about a WEN drill press not a Clausing. If it were a Clausing drill press would the Albrecht hand Chuck be the best Chuck to have? Not for me. At least as the only chuck. Now we are back to the Jacobs "Super Chuck". Which while still very good from what I can tell but are no longer made in the USA. I'd likely look at Rohm. As those top tier companies are forced to move operations they also move manufacturing know how and technology.

Upside is that many of us can now afford similar tools which we may not have been able to own.