cinderblock overhang

[Kapt]

I'm planning a cinderblock foundation with a floating slab. The block walls will be a few inches above grade before the framing starts. The framing will be flush with the outside of the block, but the interior will have about 4 inches of block sticking out into the interior of the garage. Any ideas what to do with this overhang to make it look good? Also, how far above grade would you have the block before the framing starts? My lot is flat with no drainage problems.

 

[bmwpower]

I blocked out the area above the block with 1 ripped 2x4 on it's side (I have 8" block with 2x6" bottom plates). I just finished sheetrocking the blocked out area and I am now spackling. I would do the same with your area, but it will depend on the height of the block since cutting sheetrock to 1.5" strips would be a pain.

I believe I have 3 course of block before framing starts.

 

[plepper]

3 block = 2 feet in height. I might go 4 courses of block giving you 32 inches for protection at the jambs form bumpers, carts and such.

 

[ultgar]

There's plenty you can do to hide the transition....here's one example....

 

[jonkav]

Ultgar--pics/links are simply dead--can you repost?

 

[byrdman]

I left my block sticking out further than the wall, and have actually run into a few instances where it was nice having it that way! The little shelf it creates works well to support things like workbenches, bolt bins, shelving etc. Just a thought! I painted the block gray and the wall white. I even thought about painting the 2x8 on top of the block bright red just for kicks.

 

[ultgar]

Ultgar--pics/links are simply dead--can you repost?

Strange....I can see the pics but I think my web hosting company did something last month to cut down on the bandwidth. The pics are at this link...see http://www.ultimategarage.com/ugr2003.htm .

 

[Kevin54]

Use a 4" wide block on the last course. When they pour the floor, you only have about 4" sticking up at the top. By using a 4" block this will eliminate the extra 4 " overhang when you put your plate on. Or if you are using 2 x 6's for the walls, then go with a 6" wide block.

 

[BECC]

Some of the cells will be filled for anchor bolts for the wall, you can have your foundation contractor fill all the cells and do a rubbed finish on the top for a clean "finished" look.

 

[Kevin54]

Some of the cells will be filled for anchor bolts for the wall, you can have your foundation contractor fill all the cells and do a rubbed finish on the top for a clean "finished" look.

In our neck of the woods the top course has to be a solid block (termite block) Code now dictates that the bottom plate can be strapped instead of using anchor bolts. They make a strap that goes in the joint and wraps the 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 sill plate. Other areas of high winds probably dictates anchor bolts. The main reason the bottom is fastened is to hold it in place from shifting off the top course and not necessarily from lifting. Once all the weight of a garage is on the block and the walls are all tied in the weight holds it down. You really need to check with a local building inspector to see what the code dictates in your area.

Kevin

 

[carb454]

Hi to all as I am new here, And must admit these garages I see here are an inspiration to me, Lots of great ideas....

Now for Kapts question, First depending on how high you want your walls and ceiling once your out of the ground at least 6" or more you don't have to use any more block, but dont forget termite sheild (flashing, especially in Md.)

As for the 8" block with opening visible , I would use a 2x10" for a bottom plate unless of course its already built .... in that case you could use construction adhesive and attach a 2by whatever fits best and paint or cover with a full size piece of trim ,ceramic,brick or what have you....only budget limits your imagination