CinderBlock Walls: Armor or Conduit?

[laertius]

So, Here is my introduction to the Forum and my first questions.

As a preface I would like to state, for the record that the existing threads, and responses are mazing -- I am inspired by each new thread!

Some context: I am an amateur blacksmith / metal worker / mechanic, and spend most of my free time in my 20x30 detached shop here in Northern Ontario Canada.

My shop has one standard overhead door facing the road, and one oversize man door on the opposite corner of the long wall. It is a trussed roof on 24 centers, the walls are standard cinder blocks without fill, cncrete floor -- all in great shape. The garage as it sits is unfinished -- no ceiling, or interior walls, The PO, in the 70's I assume installed very basic wiring tacked around the shop for some basic lights etc -- all this tapped off the circuit that runs my kitchen 50 feet away! I will post pics sooon,......but first my questions.

I ran a 100amp sub panel to the shop last year, but have not done any wiring from it yet: A clean slate! I have spent the year thinking and mulling over ideas and plans. Thinking time is OVER!

So My first question is ~~~keeping in mind this is a metal shop and I DO NOT WANT TO stud and drywall the inside -- I plan to insulate and finish the OUTSIDE of the cinder blocks:

1) 8-10 receptacles, all at about 4'' off the ground (1/2 mounted just above or in some counter tops), the ones by the doors will be gfci etc etc....will get local advice on local codes. For lights: I plan to use 6 sets of 4xt8 fixtures, one cicuit, 3 switches - front of shop, left and right. I will add my heavy duty runs later on as I buy machinery, right now I do not have anything that requires more than 110ac.

My question is: Should I use conduit (PVC or Metal?) or armored/tek cable of some sort for these runs? I have a lot of romex 14-2 and some 12-3, but I will have to buy wire anyway. I do not have the tools to bend or thread conduit -- but would consider buying them if need be. I like the look of conduit but I am not sure I can justify the cost.

3) Any suggestions on the best receptacle boxes/ covers to be mounted, exposed on cinder walls?

Thanks for any/all comments.....except those guys who tell me to call an electrician If I had the cash to go that route I would not be asking you guys on a DIY level I installed my panel under the direction of an electrician, and have done many household jobs without issue and much success and personal satisfaction! I am here to learn, and will be patient,

Thanks in Advance,

Jon

 

[sands35]

Metal working? I'd do metal conduit, not PVC. You'll need a pipe bender, but they are not hard to learn how to use. Bigger boxes are better. You can pull Rolex in conduit, but you need to pay attention to conduit fill regardless.

 

[JasonMcElroy]

Conduit is better and faster.

You'd have to use more hangers with armored and all that drilling gets to be a hassle.

Jason

 

[Mustang51js]

For what you want and to save money I would use pvc for the outlets,you can buy premade 45s and 90s, and for the lights since you have wood trusses then use up the romex you have.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Use EMT, no threading involved, easy to bend, the bender(s) are cheap at Lowes, Home Depot, electrical supply house, etc. Do not use anything smaller than a 4x4 deep (2-1/8") box, use matching zinc/galvanized covers to mount the switches and receptacles in.

Don't know about Canada. In the US it is legal to pull Romex thru conduit, though you will only get one run thru a 1/2" conduit, but that will use up your wire. Personally I would do all EMT and pull THHN individual wires. Use good quality commercial or industrial grade receptacles and switches and they will last forever.All of this, I cut, bent and pulled the wire by myself. No help whatsoever. Used a 19'x32" JLG scissor lift. Its a steel building but the idea is the same. Durable, solid, difficult to damage, fire proof, industrial look.

I made the mistake of starting out with the shallow 4x4 boxes and ended up using extension boxes on top of them to get enough room to comfortably shove all the wiring and wirenuts down into. I had figured the box fill and the shallow one was OK but packed. Now I don't use anything but deep boxes. Wished I could get the older drawn steel boxes, but they are no longer made in the deep variety 4x4, just the sharp cornered welded boxes.

Charles

 

[laertius]

Cool Setup Charles!

I think, because I need light sooner than later, that I will install my lighting with the romex I have and buy a piece of PVC / some fittings to get the wire above the non-existent ceiling, and back down to the man door for the switches (panel is on opposite end of same wall as man door).

Then, there will be light.

Then over the next few weeks I will continue to lurk around here, learn and buy the required tools and supplies to do a proper conduit job for all of my receptacles and dedicated appliance runs. I think if I plan it well, it will go a hell of lot better!

Thanks Again -- I hope to post some pics as promised -- but I did not make it out to the shop yesterday: -31c / -23f here in Thunder Bay!

 

[Tyberius]

Save your romex. it fills too much and it is wastefull. With conduit, you will use less wire, because your conduit is your green ground.

Metal boxes too, so your fixtures are grounded when they are mounted.

Myself, I like the shallow rounded box for surface mount exposed stuff. Looks nice and you won't scrape yourself across it.