Circ pump noise
- Thread starter Sumboodie
- Start date
You need to post in on YouTube or some other hosing site, then post a link.
No, the link you posted didn't show it.
It showed up now.
Funny rattle. I wonder if the impeller is coming apart.
I had one where the hub of the impeller broke out, but in a weird shape so it still spun the impeller and pumped water. It made a noise like that.
You have isolation flanges, I would be tempted to take the four screw out that hold the motor to the pump housing and take a look. Althingh maybe wait as see if it survives the rest of the heating season, or buy a spare pump before you do. Once it comes apart it might not go back together.
Funny rattle. I wonder if the impeller is coming apart.
I had one where the hub of the impeller broke out, but in a weird shape so it still spun the impeller and pumped water. It made a noise like that.
You have isolation flanges, I would be tempted to take the four screw out that hold the motor to the pump housing and take a look. Althingh maybe wait as see if it survives the rest of the heating season, or buy a spare pump before you do. Once it comes apart it might not go back together.
mcbane
Well-known member
Any chance it is cavitation noise? What is your system pressure?
Not sure, no pressure gauge.
mcbane
Well-known member
Put that on your to-do list. In the meantime, if you have a service tap, try to get a gauge connected and see what pressure you have. Most pump install instructions mention how much positive system pressure (if any) is needed to avoid cavitation. If that is a grundfos I think they want 5psi minimum.
Normally you maintain pressure by adding enough coolant to the system that the expansion tank bladder is partially compressed. So even a small amount of lost coolant is replaced with coolant in the pressure tank and the expansion tank maintains pressure.
It has water. Floor heat.
I ordered on
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mcbane
Well-known member
That’s like saying a car tire with 1 psi “has air”. You need pressure in the system to prevent cavitation. Do you have an expansion tank? If so how much air was in the bladder before you filled the system sand what was the bladder pressure when the fill was done?
I was saying it was water and not an antifreeze system like the person i replied to mentioned. Those normally have a tank of makeup coolant and a pump on a pressure switch to maintain system pressure.
I didn't setup this system. It was put in this summer when I was gone at work. Replaced another setup that had failed.
It seems like it should gave an air scrubber, water fill/make up and pressure gauge. The 1st system didn't have that pump even. Just used the boiler pump. Somehow that worked.
I don't want to screw with it now, still need heat for 2+ months.
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mcbane
Well-known member
Got it. I agree - don’t risk a potentially involved project during heating season.
I found a pump in the Amazon for $130, so I have that coming.
Any idea if there are temp/pressure gauges combo made for piping?
I had temperature ones on my old house, they fit into a "t" where the t was sort of a well for the temp probe.
mcbane
Well-known member
These come in long and short probe versions. Super easy to use these on a tank. If mounted off a pipe tee, you need to account for the assembled length of pipe fittings to make sure the probe is in the flow so you get accurate reads for temperature.
The ones i had in my old system had a 1" copper pipe T, but the 1 T leg wasn't flow through. It was a copper "well" the t stat clipped into. Round 2" ish t stat.
Of course that'd only work for temp, but i can't find those even.
Did find clip on t stats for about $10 each.
I'm not sure how it got filled without a pressure gauge or water fill piping.
Do these wall boilers have low water/low pressure shutdown?
mcbane
Well-known member
I think those meters are designed to be on the 90 degree leg of a tee that is cut into a straight length of pipe. Then you add a 1/2 fpt adaptor and a short ****** as needed to get the tip of the probe into the flow stream between the two coaxial legs of the tee.
If I didnt have a pressure gauge in the system, I would use hillbilly methods to fill: Preload the expansion tank to 12 psi, then pump liquid into the system until the expansion tank air valve was showing at least 15psi. That wont happen until 20% of the expansion tank is filled with liquid. Then just periodically check that you have better than 12psi at the air valve.
No low pressure shutdown that i have seen but it is common to have an overheat shutdown feature which deals with flow issues or a dry heat exchanger.
If I didnt have a pressure gauge in the system, I would use hillbilly methods to fill: Preload the expansion tank to 12 psi, then pump liquid into the system until the expansion tank air valve was showing at least 15psi. That wont happen until 20% of the expansion tank is filled with liquid. Then just periodically check that you have better than 12psi at the air valve.
No low pressure shutdown that i have seen but it is common to have an overheat shutdown feature which deals with flow issues or a dry heat exchanger.
The boiler shows a psi option. Can you read system pressure from there? There is a white pex on the left side of the main loop below the blue shutoff handle. Runs off pic above your infloor manifold. Does the go to domestic cold with a regulator?