Circle 41

[PASSMORE]

In the trailer right now, but we had the stint where we leased a home a couple of miles away right after my mother had a stroke and we were caring for her.

Yes, we are ready to move in but we can see the big picture so it makes it bearable. Wifey will be very happy when she can see visable (to her) progress like stucco and drywall

 

[nathank]

In the end it will all be worth it! Keep us in the loop.

 

[JBAUTO]

Simply wow. I wish i could find such a understanding Wife

 

[wrigh003]

Neat build, glad to see it moving again.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Nice project!

 

[LUV2XCLR8]

Will you adopt me? lol

 

[g9m3c]

I just signed up on this forum, largely due to your project. I took a look around and there seems to be a large number of people here with million dollar + projects going on, yet remain very humble and conservative about what they post. I respect that, and I cannot wait to see the rest of this project unfold. Congratulations.

 

[onewaydave]

Ditto to all the coments.

In post #112 you said, " I have no use for useless spaces..." Of course you don't. If a space were capable of being useless, you couldn't use it. But IMHO there is no space that can't be used for something. My Wife calls me a packrat. Yes Wife is supposed to be capitalized.

At the beginning of this I was in awe of the magnitude of this project. As were many of the other forum members. An Aussie commented that everything is bigger in the USA. Close, but not precise. Then I noticed your demographics. The TEXAS embassy in Sloughhouse, Ca. Being a Texan my-own-self, I understand.

Keep up the good work Passmore.

 

[PASSMORE]

Finishing out rough electric after Thanksgiving, but the shop portion is wired minus the high bay issue (I believe we have found a recessed HO T5 that will work for us). I am sure some of you understand from your own prolonged projects how much of a luxury it feels like when you get a few outlets and lights wired and useful! Even though we are a good distance from completion, it feels workable! Heck, I even have my 220v's energized so I can get on my winter welding projects! I even have light in the weight room! Life is good

Stucco will commence, at least scaffolding, next week before the holiday with a tad bit of lunch and then in earnest the week following.

Main box

"Mission Control" (for now )

More as we go...

 

[romafern]

Is that a 27" iMac?

 

[Transit80]

This post makes my 16x8 and my portable garage look a bit silly.

Thats it in the distance

Chris Wilcox
England

 

[PASSMORE]

Wilcox, I worked out of my 20x8 for a few years. Good stuff and in some ways I miss that thing

romafern, I don't know the ", but it is just a slave monitor to my macbook.

 

[stroked93]

Nice to see progress I was waiting in anticipation. My wife actually agreed to this as soon as the kids move out!

 

[Eusibius2]

This post makes my 16x8 and my portable garage look a bit silly.


Thats it in the distance

Chris Wilcox
England

LOL - your 16x8 still makes my "1 car garage" look pathetic! I don't even have a portable! I'm so not worthy to be lurking here...

 

[PASSMORE]

Stucco guys are here...

Progress begins...

What do you know? We have multiple contractors on site

Might just finish this thing after all...

 

[Vernmotor]

Cool gald to see you get back on Build !!

 

[Cool75280Z]

Cool gald to see you get back on Build !!

Thanks. I am still working away on AutoCad and have the final version of the final version of the final version under way. Jeeeezzz.....I really need to do what the rest of these guys have done and put down some footings and build my garage. Still...there is just one more tweak.....

 

[onewaydave]

That is sizing up to be un ranchero muy bueno.

 

[g9m3c]

Very nice! Any stucco progress to post?

 

[PASSMORE]

Couple of misc. shots...

 

[PASSMORE]

Should be completely wrapped on Saturday with scratch coat going on middle next week. All is laid out and being executed rough electric wise and a detail or two being attended to with rough plumbing (extend a gas line to the decks, etc...). I hope to be able to spend a bit on time this weekend to complete my a/v and security layout so we can get cracking on this as well.

On a related note - does anyone have any experience with fire suppression systems. My bow to the county for my permit was that I would sprinkler the entire structure. Obviously, our project has been ongoing for some time and when I got my fire sprinkler gey back out here to re-evaluate it and get started - he is the only contractor with a bid that has gone up since we first began. Says it is due to the cost of the plastic pipe he uses as it is petroleum based. I recently purchased over 2 miles worth of Sch 40 2" and the prices are not the lowest I have seen, but middle low... It does not make sense. Owner builders are allowed to install themselves in our county and I am considering doing so. Thoughts?

 

[Holedgr]

Yes...I have some thoughts.....Pardon my ignorance but I've never seen or heard of a fire suppression system plumbed out of plastic...so what gives??

The place is stunning.....thanks for sharing....

-T

 

[PASSMORE]

Yes...I have some thoughts.....Pardon my ignorance but I've never seen or heard of a fire suppression system plumbed out of plastic...so what gives??

The place is stunning.....thanks for sharing....

-T

Not your ignorance - I am the ignorant one here. I typically see them housed in an orange "PVC" piping of some sort, at lease residentially.

 

[c5golfguy]

I've got PVC pipe in my garage/basement for the sprinkler system. I'm building out the ceiling to hang sheet rock so I had to extend the pvc to go below the sheet rock. It's pretty simple to do as its tied directly into the houses water supply. I turned the water off to the house and released some pressure, but it was still a bit wet extending the pvc for about a minute. You might even be able to do it yourself. I found the sprinklers online for 6 bucks each in case I damaged one while removing.

Original length of sprinkler

New length of sprinkler.

 

[Eusibius2]

OK - here's an ignorant question: wouldn't plastic PVC melt in a fire, causing the sprinkler to be null and void?

 

[metal1313]

well the point is if i fire gets hot enough to melt the pvc your pretty much f'd anyway. they wont put out a huge fire but they can keep a fire from going out of control and give time for the fd to put out larger fires.

 

[galwaytt]

omg omg !

Congrats on a HUGE job - mind you, I love the fact that it's a 'working' building.........very Bauernhauser !...... I think my next project will be a much more 'integrated' live & work space than the traditional house+garage. Well, esp since we spend as much time in one as the other !

On a separate note though, I'm intrigued by the spans and capability of wood. Consider THIS pic: what exaclty is the sizing of the lintel and cripples for those opes ? Reason I ask is that there's also a gable, with roof coming down mid-ope above these...........just curious.

Outside of that, it's hard to gauge from the scale of your build, but the main trusses are what span, and what is the size of the bottom member ?

Sorry for the nosiness, but I live in a masonry country !

 

[boiler7904]

Should be completely wrapped on Saturday with scratch coat going on middle next week. All is laid out and being executed rough electric wise and a detail or two being attended to with rough plumbing (extend a gas line to the decks, etc...). I hope to be able to spend a bit on time this weekend to complete my a/v and security layout so we can get cracking on this as well.

On a related note - does anyone have any experience with fire suppression systems. My bow to the county for my permit was that I would sprinkler the entire structure. Obviously, our project has been ongoing for some time and when I got my fire sprinkler gey back out here to re-evaluate it and get started - he is the only contractor with a bid that has gone up since we first began. Says it is due to the cost of the plastic pipe he uses as it is petroleum based. I recently purchased over 2 miles worth of Sch 40 2" and the prices are not the lowest I have seen, but middle low... It does not make sense. Owner builders are allowed to install themselves in our county and I am considering doing so. Thoughts?

I'm surprised that your state / local fire marshall allows homeowner / builders to install their own fire sprinkler systems. Around here, you need to be licensed by the state in order to design / calculate the system, and then install it to code.

Piece of advice - spec / install heads with a higher temperature rating in utility / furnace rooms. Those types of rooms can get hot enough during normal use / operation of equipment to set off the typical 165 degree rated head. The mess that follows is worth the couple of bucks up front to use 200 degree heads.

You might research installing a pre-action system if available for residential systems. Basically it ties a detection device (heat or smoke detector) to the sprinkler riser. Typical sprinklers will go off if the glass bulb in the head breaks. Pre-action requires that and a signal from the heat / smoke detector that there really is a fire in the space to trigger the sprinkler.

 

[PASSMORE]

I'm surprised that your state / local fire marshall allows homeowner / builders to install their own fire sprinkler systems. Around here, you need to be licensed by the state in order to design / calculate the system, and then install it to code.

Homeowners may install only based off an approved plan done by licensed fire sprinkler guru. We have that approved plan.

 

[PASSMORE]

On a separate note though, I'm intrigued by the spans and capability of wood. Consider THIS pic: what exaclty is the sizing of the lintel and cripples for those opes ? Reason I ask is that there's also a gable, with roof coming down mid-ope above these...........just curious.

Outside of that, it's hard to gauge from the scale of your build, but the main trusses are what span, and what is the size of the bottom member ?

Sorry for the nosiness, but I live in a masonry country !

Not sure what you are saying exactly as I am not a framer. However, those spans are nothing really - 19'. Roof is all engineered trusses interacting with one another. This will spin yer grape - trusses were engineered to support an i-beam trolley hoist capable of lifting 4000 lbs at any point. i-beam to be mounted right in the middle of the span. We had more capacity, but 4000 was enough.

 

[catmech]

This will spin yer grape - trusses were engineered to support an i-beam trolley hoist capable of lifting 4000 lbs at any point. i-beam to be mounted right in the middle of the span. We had more capacity, but 4000 was enough.

I am sure that someone has said and every garage envious thread reading guy has thought it but YOU ****! Just kidding, I have read all and appreciate all the sacrifices that you and your family are making to have such an awesome build. With a place that cool you are definitely deserving of those great pups.

Are you attaching the I-beam directly to the bottom of the trusses? Will it require any floor or wall supports? Will the hoist only be able to travel in one direction path like east/west or will it be capable of traveling in two directions - east/west and north/south?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[PASSMORE]

Are you attaching the I-beam directly to the bottom of the trusses? Will it require any floor or wall supports? Will the hoist only be able to travel in one direction path like east/west or will it be capable of traveling in two directions - east/west and north/south?

Thanks,
Tim

Hiya Tim,

No floor or wall supports needed. It was designed to be affixed to the trusses via custom bracketry. The hoist will only travel in one direction. In hindsight it would not have been all that difficult to have designed for one that would have traveled all over the entire shop.

I am considering scrapping it however for a rolling gantry hoist or a forklift. We could use a forklift here and it seems it would do most anything the planned hoist or gantry would with the proper attachment on the forks.

Still thinking...

 

[catmech]

Well I know for sure that anything that will go up and down and handle the heavy things is worth having. A hoist is nice when you are alone and need to be at the point of work rather than at the controls, but the forklift is handy for moving projects in and out. I guess for me the best would be both and considering that you engineered for the hoist you can add it down the road. As far as the gantry, my only issues with them are working around the legs and the loss of floor space whe the unit is idle. If you do go with the hoist I would love to see some detailed pictures of the mounting brackets. Did an engineer design your trusses or was this done through your truss manufacturer? I am planning to gut our existing garage and add some length and width to it so new trusses will be required, may be an option to consider???? Thanks for the reply.

Tim

 

[Deskpilot]

G'day Passmore, just found this site and your thread. Man, I'm sooo disappointed. Where's the hanger for your plane? Really nice man, really nice.
Have a nice day guys.

Doug

 

[PASSMORE]

One frosty morning this past week.

Minor details left in order to complete the paper and wire... The BBQ structure on the upper deck is built in and therefore a part of the waterproofing. Need to get in a couple of parts next week in order to frame, flash, and install them so we can paper and wire around them. Details here, there, and everywhere as drywall is rapidly approaching.

 

[408Chevelle]

Great project! I can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[PASSMORE]

Great project! I can't wait to see the finished product!

Funny, that's what my wife says too...

 

[Woody426]

Yes...I have some thoughts.....Pardon my ignorance but I've never seen or heard of a fire suppression system plumbed out of plastic...so what gives??

The place is stunning.....thanks for sharing....

-T

I have been lurking on this site for a while and finally something I am qualified to post on. I work in R&D for a company that manufactures plastic fire suppression systems, http://www.lubrizol.com/BuildingSolutions/BlazeMaster.html Plastic fire protection is the future, like it or not, and there is really no need to not like like. Fire suppression systems are designed to stop fires before high temperatures are achieved so that makes comparing plastic to cast iron a moot point. One of the major advantages of the plastic system is that it can be installed by a plumber, you dont have to pay a union pipe fitter to do it ( no offense to any pipe fitters who may frequent the forum) and in some areas a homeowner is allowed to do the installation of a professionally designed system, granted that the final work passes inspection. Fire suppression in ALL new single family construction is coming, legislation is under way right now, home owners insurance companies will offer big discounts for people who retrofit their homes, so for those of us that dont own a pipe threader and want to do it your self, plastic is where its at.

 

[mad57]

Wow awesome build keep up the good work, looking at these pics i really miss my rotty...brutus a very good dog.. damn cancer . love those pups.

 

[roycemek]

Finishing out rough electric after Thanksgiving, but the shop portion is wired minus the high bay issue (I believe we have found a recessed HO T5 that will work for us).

Glad to see you are back at it again. Still looks amazing. Have you chosen some lights yet? Which T5 HO did you go with and how are they mounted?

Thanks,
Royce M