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Circuit Breakers as switches?

RustnGrease

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Jun 26, 2014
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397
Location
Schuylkill County, PA
So in the new to me shop, there are 0, none, nadda, switches. two lights have pull cords, that's it. I'm guessing that's how it was built, way back in the 90's. I know that using the breakers as such will wear them out faster. I'm also aware that doing so with any sort of load on them doesn't help the situation.
I don't plan on putting a switch on the outlets or furnace, just the lighting circuits.

I could do the work myself so it won't be a huge deal to get it done, just some cash and time.

Would it be considered up to code as is?

What does the GJ crowd consider the urgency of the project?
 
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JJThrasher

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May 30, 2013
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Indiana
We've used breakers as switches at my last three jobs. Its a pretty common practice right or wrong and never had much issue wearing them out.
 

teamextreme

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Aug 10, 2013
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867
Location
Lakewood, CO
It is perfectly acceptable code-wise, however, the breaker should be switch rated if it's going to be used as a switch. There should be a marking on it somewhere indicating this. I would put that project as pretty high priority, but only because that would bug the hell out of me and it would be easy for me to do likely even with parts on hand.
 

ryanjharvey

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Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
27
Location
Louisville, KY
So in the new to me shop, there are 0, none, nadda, switches. two lights have pull cords, that's it. I'm guessing that's how it was built, way back in the 90's. I know that using the breakers as such will wear them out faster. I'm also aware that doing so with any sort of load on them doesn't help the situation.
I don't plan on putting a switch on the outlets or furnace, just the lighting circuits.

I could do the work myself so it won't be a huge deal to get it done, just some cash and time.

Would it be considered up to code as is?

What does the GJ crowd consider the urgency of the project?

To comply with code, the breakers have to be switching duty rated "SWD" or "HID" rated (for high intensity discharge lamps). The code goes on further to state the loads should be fluorescent or HID in the 2011 NEC - 240.83... no mention of incandescent.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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Jan 11, 2013
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11,948
Location
South of omaha
To comply with code, the breakers have to be switching duty rated "SWD" or "HID" rated (for high intensity discharge lamps). The code goes on further to state the loads should be fluorescent or HID in the 2011 NEC - 240.83... no mention of incandescent.

Id say its grandfathered back to origional build date if it was a permitted/inspected job.;)
 

ryanjharvey

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Dec 23, 2013
Messages
27
Location
Louisville, KY
Id say its grandfathered back to origional build date if it was a permitted/inspected job.;)

Although I don't think this is a big issue and a reg breaker should be fine for any one looking for future reference, it all depends on when it was built... I know that requirement has been in there at least since the late 80's. Permitted and accepted doesn't necessarily mean correct or up to code... just means it may have slipped by.
 

rsnip988

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Apr 2, 2015
Messages
143
Location
Elon NC
I've used a breaker as an on/off switch for my compressor for the last 2+ years with no issue with the breaker or compressor. I wouldn't imagine lights would be an issue... That being said, I would prefer my lights on a switch near the door instead of groping around for a pull cord in the dark.
My new garage has switches everywhere and safety disconnects on the 10KW heater & 5HP Compressor...
1H246_AS01
 
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RustnGrease

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Jun 26, 2014
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397
Location
Schuylkill County, PA
Thanks for the replies everyone,

I should've mentioned that the lights are flourescent, all turned on by breakers, except the two that are on a breaker but also have pull cords. Those are the farthest from the man door. The breaker box is pretty much immediately adjacent to the man door. Also the fact that this is a detached structure.

I have no idea if the breakers are switch rated, will check ASAP and report back,

ZMAx, i would guess that it was a permitted and inspected job. I didn't get to really check out the furnace yet, it's on it's own 15 amp breaker. I will check and see if it has it's own switch and fuse.

ALL: Thanks again for the replies, i'm trying to wrap my head around this stuff, i had never seen breakers being used as light switches before and want to make this shop correct now, so i don't have any issues down the road.
 

CJ7VFR

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Jan 13, 2015
Messages
2,939
Location
Central New Jersey
I would think that even if using a breaker as a light switch is ok code wise, wouldn't it be more convenient to run some wire and add a switch or two near the man door so you can turn the lights on and off when you enter and exit the shop?

This would also be a lot better than fumbling around in the dark if your load center with the breakers is far away from the door.

The wire, switches, boxes and the few other items you would need to add the convenience of having the switches where you want/need them would not cost a lot, and you could do the job yourself in a day or two.

Jim
 
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RustnGrease

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Jun 26, 2014
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Schuylkill County, PA
CJ7: I'm considering/planning on adding switches just for piece of mind, but i would only gain at most 18" from where the breaker panel is to where i'd install the switches. As i walk in the door the panel is currently within arm's reach.

Also I've checked the breakers and it appears all are HACR rated? Only one has the SWD designation and another has an MT-P or MP-T designation, not sure what that means. Thanks!
 

checkthisout

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Sep 5, 2008
Messages
5,232
CJ7: I'm considering/planning on adding switches just for piece of mind, but i would only gain at most 18" from where the breaker panel is to where i'd install the switches. As i walk in the door the panel is currently within arm's reach.

Also I've checked the breakers and it appears all are HACR rated? Only one has the SWD designation and another has an MT-P or MP-T designation, not sure what that means. Thanks!

HACR means Heating, Air Conditioning and Refrigeration.

MP-T = SWD = rated for switching.
 

rsnip988

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Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Messages
143
Location
Elon NC
That square D disconnect pictured is probably the poorest quality product square D makes.

I've used one on my compressor... for a little over 20 years :headscrat

So to summarize: Square D makes some good ****!

Well, that' not the exact one I'm using, I just got a generic "Safety disconnect switch" photo from Google...
My 60A is a GE and the 30A is a SquareD QO, Both feel pretty high quality and had excellent reviews, So I'm happy with my purchase and easy install!

RKS
 

CJ7VFR

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Jan 13, 2015
Messages
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Location
Central New Jersey
CJ7: I'm considering/planning on adding switches just for piece of mind, but i would only gain at most 18" from where the breaker panel is to where i'd install the switches. As i walk in the door the panel is currently within arm's reach.

That is close, but I would still put in a switch or two if it was me. For the piece of mind you mentioned!

I have people like my wife, father-in-law and other relatives that are at my house for holidays and other family functions, and sometimes they need to go into the garage to put stuff in the garbage cans or recycle cans.

They would never know how to turn the lights on and off without a switch. And God forbid I would NEVER want them flicking breakers on and off. They would probably shut my furnace and well pump off and not turn them back on again!

Jim
 
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