Circular saw blade for cutting butcher block

[iagsxr]

Need to trim up a Menards butcher block top for a work bench I'm building. What circular saw blade would work the best?

 

[gdocktor3]

If it were me I'd just use a 60 tooth Diablo blade or something similar. I don't think you need anything special to cut it if that's what you're asking.

 

[iagsxr]

If it were me I'd just use a 60 tooth Diablo blade or something similar. I don't think you need anything special to cut it if that's what you're asking.

That's what I've came up with so far. 60t blade, cut halfway through first pass so the blade doesn't get hot.

Just looking for advice from anyone who's actually done it or is just more knowledgeable in general than me.

 

[amorrow]

I'm actually in the same boat. A Freud blade is already in my miter saw ready to cut my Menards Mastercraft butcher block top for a bathroom vanity I'm going to make. I likely won't get to it for another week since I have to mock everything up to determine exact size I want, but can post my experience if by chance you haven't cut yours yet.

 

[Voi]

That's what I've came up with so far. 60t blade, cut halfway through first pass so the blade doesn't get hot.

Are you doing a rip or a crosscut? Or both?

Is the top solid wood or is it particle board with a veneer?

Will the cut edges be hidden?

The upshot of all these questions is that if it's solid wood and you're only doing a rip cut with the grain then I'd go with a lower tooth count blade. If yes to any of the other questions then I'd probably stick with the higher tooth count blade.

 

[Empty Pockets]

When I ran the foimica shop, whenever we had to cut maple butcher block, we used the highest toioth countr blade we had, in the table saw, one man cutting, very slowly,. We always sprayed the blade down with dry silicon lube before starting.

 

[Git]

Are you doing a rip or a crosscut? Or both?

Is the top solid wood or is it particle board with a veneer?

Will the cut edges be hidden?

The upshot of all these questions is that if it's solid wood and you're only doing a rip cut with the grain then I'd go with a lower tooth count blade. If yes to any of the other questions then I'd probably stick with the higher tooth count blade.

^^^^^^ This

 

[dumper]

Its just a workbench top! Use any sharp blade with a good quality saw. Good grief...

 

[PoorOwner]

In my experience maybe it's the glue or something when I use something like a 60t just lots of smoke and the glue muck up the teeth.

Using a 32t cuts much better. I usually finish it with a router 1/4 arbor 2" long.

 

[Toolfool]

I do crosscuts with a 60T blade in my skilsaw, making passes of 1/3 depth at a time.

 

[cgrutt]

You can always cut 1/16+ of the line and finish with a router. I use Forest blades on my table saw and don't think a butcher block would be a problem though. Band saw is another option, finished with a hand plane...

 

[turbowoodworker]

^^^This
If you want a really nice face with no tearout, cut near the line then finish with light router cut.

 

[flyingblind]

No one has mentioned taping the cut line to lessen tear out. Good regular masking tape is what I use and remove it pulling toward the cut edge when you remove after the cut.

 

[cheechi]

I have found 3M painter's tape works very well for tearout also.

I like the 40 & 60 tooth Diablo blades. Haven't used another on my circ saw for years.

 

[tarbellb]

I cut a bunch of the solid 2" Ikea butcher block they use to sell. Both cross and Rip cuts w/ a sidewinder circular saw.

I found less teeth (40-60) to be the best for single pass full depth cuts +tape and a good sharp blade.

 

[Autonomous]

Put some painters tape on your cut line on both sides to reduce possible tear-out.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[FullRaceMerc]

Another trick for a clean cut is to clamp down a guide on the keeper side of the work, make a very shallow first pass to reduce tearout, add a single thickness of tape to the face of the guide to offset the next cut slightly, then go back & make the final cut through.

 

[tarbellb]

Another trick for a clean cut is to clamp down a guide on the keeper side of the work, make a very shallow first pass to reduce tearout, add a single thickness of tape to the face of the guide to offset the next cut slightly, then go back & make the final cut through.

Thats a cool trick! ^^^

 

[Wamsutta]

I could cut that butcher block with a 24 tooth Diablo carbide blade and you'd think it was cut with a 60 tooth...

 

[Sh40674]

ditto on making a half cut so you don't burn the wood. use a 60 tooth carbide tip blade, clamp a straight edge to get an accurate cut, cut halfway through, drop your blade depth and do a 2nd pass to finish.

also, use tape like said above on the butcher block where the saw will glide over, will help keep from scratching the surface of the butcher block

 

[lbhsbz]

Finer teeth are better, cut from the backside so the blade is pulling away from the "top" rather than pushing it towards the top. Run masking tape around the cut line. Any good framing blade will work fine.

 

[oldldh]

My Dad had some saw blades from Sweden...

16" Diameter...

160 alternate top bevel, carbide teeth...

We used them to cut post formed formica counter tops...

As fast as we could push them through the blade...without chipping the plastic...

You could also cut 6 sheets of 3/4" plywood, at once...

Got about three hundred cuts before resharpening the blade...

My memory isn't what it was, but I remember 5 speeds (7,200 rpm was as fast as it would go!!!), 7 1/2 hp, 440/3ph, 100 amp circuit breaker...

Helluva a saw (Cost $8,995.00 in the late 60's)...

If the OP cut come up with a 60 tooth, 12" blade, and a table saw, with an extension...He should be in business...That'll cut 4+" stock with one pass...